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Issues with 1997 Mustang GT

4K views 62 replies 11 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 ·
Hey guys! New to the forum! I hope to turn my recently purchased SN95 project into a nice fun weekend toy. I did buy this car extremely cheap, knowing it would need some work, so lets jump in! 1997 Mustang GT, auto. 125,660 miles. 7/10 interior. 5/10 exterior. But first things first, I want to get it running right. The car will turn over and idle very rough, seems to be running EXTREMELY rich. Plugs on the passenger side are all wet with gas. When you try to give it gas it will just bog badly, it was a...you know what....to try to load on the trailer...should of bought a winch haha. you can put it in drive and reverse and it will take off with minimal gas, but seeing anything about 15 mph or 2000 rpm is almost impossible. So it has me thinking, Coils? plugs/wires? IAC? Fuel pressure regulator? leaky injectors? Car is stock offer than some axle back exhaust the prev owner had.

Also when the vehicle starts, it's like it's gasping for air hardcore! haha Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
 
#4 ·
Okay! Have an update! Like I said I bought this car on the cheap and expected to have to do some work to get it right. So I found a few things, I think the fuel pressure regulator wasn't connected...please let me know if this is right. And where does/ should this be connected? Pics would be preferred. Also I found 2 other things I have a question about I will provide pics. First pic is the FPR and a connector...do these go together?

Second is a picture of a connection of some sort on the passenger side coil pack...where and what is it?

Third Pic is well...idk! This is more of a...is this right if not what do I need to do to make it right? And what the hell is it? Thanks!
 

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#6 ·
I was eyeing my drivers side coil to sort of A/B it to the passenger side one, and the passenger side is missing some type of tiny black box with a plug in on it, I believe the wire I have pictured goes to the black block that is suppose to be bolted on to the coil, and the wire is missing the plug attachment. Any idea where I can get the plug attachment and box?

Also more details on this vacuum line? Pics please? Where should it lead to and any links where I can buy this line?
 
#10 ·
UPDATE. Connected some missing connections the PO must of overlooked, ran new red vacuum line for mustang, and put a fresh battery in it. Started it up, it's improved a lot, no codes for some odd reason....still runs rich on the passenger side it burns your eyes lol...if that makes sense? Pulled the plugs they are pretty black and they are autolites, they look like they need replaced. Some of the boots on the wires are in sorta rough condition.

The car idles 100x better. No gasping or "bouncy" Rpms! However, it falls flat when trying to get above 2000 Rpms starts to struggle.
 
#16 ·
On a side note, I'm planning on sending my injectors to a company to have them rebuilt to save some money, cause I'm pretty sure the stock injectors will handle my plans for this car. (P&P Pi swap, CAI, long tubes, O/R X pipe, exhaust, Tune, and 4.10s)
 
#21 · (Edited)
There are too many variables involved to try and calculate the gains accurately.

My estimate would be an extra 25, possibly 30 more HP from bolt ons only. You should do that with the newer 2v manifold and a good tune.

Now free up a little power via a rear gear swap and under drive pulleys. I'm not a fan of under drive pulleys, but they can offer a small benefit.

I would have the heads ported and polished for a little extra breathing room. Cams wouldn't hurt if you can swing it. The full exhaust will be a great help. Getting more air up top will be done through a larger plenum, throttle body, and possibly a performance MAF.

Your greatest gain is going to come from the tune. The tune tells the car how to communicate in regard to spark and air/fuel ratio. The better the tune, the more power you will gain by opening up the engine's ability to breathe.

All in all I would make a conservative guess that totals up to an extra 50 HP.

Horsepower is not cheap.

Times at the track come from the driver's experience, the suspension set up, tires, and weight. There are other factors, but none of the engine modifications listed will give you a huge ET gain without a lot of seat time.

I used to drag race bikes. I grew up watching my dad with a blown alcohol flat bottom drag boat. Before that I had a nasty street car that was a monster at the track. One thing stays in my mind; it cost thousands of dollars to gain a 10th of a second once you learn to drive YOUR car.
 
#24 ·
**UPDATE**

Smoking from passenger side of motor, I am starting to believe is the cause of a valve cover gasket leak.

Replaced the plugs and wires, cause I got a great deal on them anyways, and the fuel filter as well. No improvement.

I am starting to believe it has something to do with the cats. Falls flat on it's face around 3k rpms when in park.
Bogs down and wants to die at WOT in drive. So maybe without sounding like an idiot, I MAY have some evidence that points to the cats even more so.
I removed the mufflers, and started it up, it ran better...even at idle. It revs above 3k rpms now as well(around 3600 now) and it revs quicker....I know the mufflers come after the cats and maybe I am being dumb, but do you think by me removing the mufflers, it somehow...allowed a clogged cat to flow ever so slightly better to allow it to rev a little higher and quicker? Sure it still isn't right, but maybe this helps point even more to a clogged cat?
 
#30 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies again guys. This forum has really been one of the better ones for me, especially as a new owner of a sn95/new user.

I have fixed a lot of the vacuum issues I have found that the PO sorta rigged up horribly. However, I could of looked over something. No codes, I have allowed the car to run long enough to allow a code to throw. Nada.



I am going to do a valve cover gasket replacement on the passenger side, that's where I as getting the eye burning smell from, I am sure this will fix it that particular issue.
 
#38 ·
Why set on not having cats? They won't rob any power from a bolt on 97GT, none at all. Agreed with Rap, SLP sounds like a can of ******** with an OR pipe. TBTH, most of the loudest mustangs are also the worst sounding and the slowest... don't be one of those dudes with an OR pipe and loud *** mufflers and a 15 second car.
 
#39 ·
It's definitely not bad advice. I guess I should be more open of my plans.

Pi swap(full swap)
Comp stage 1 cam
Longtube BBK's
CAI
Tune
and a 100-125 shot of Noz.
4.10's

I didn't know if this particular build would justify cats or no cats, I just sort of went with the idea of just going O/R X pipe
 
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