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Back in The Saddle Again

3K views 38 replies 9 participants last post by  andya 
#1 · (Edited)
(Much of this post was lost. Sorry about that)

...leather seats, 5 speed manual, 4.7L SOHC V8 and only has 66,242 miles on it! It spent most its time in California and there is not a speck of rust anywhere I could see. It drives and handles like a new car.

I'm still going to have my mechanic give it a full physical next week. I bought it "as is" but I'm not worried. I can afford to fix it if it needs it. There is a hole in the side of the seat bottom that looks like a cigar burn ( guessed that because the ashtray is gone and I get a faint whiff of cigar smoke with the top up, no problem) which I won't fix. This is not a show car.

My other car is a '14 Cadillac CTS-V Sedan with the supercharged LSA all aluminum engine and is wicked fast and handles like a race car. That's because CTS-Vs are raced on European Road Tracks and like US stock cars needs to have sold enough to the public to qualify.

Wicked quick is the problem. Driving it around town is like taking a racehorse to a petting zoo. I keep fighting the urge to floor it around town. However there are plenty of mountain twisties here and a few multi-mile straightaways to keep the Caddy happy. I also have a 4WD pickup that I drive in the snow. You might see them in my driveway in the picture I posted.

The Mustang is great about town. It handles traffic like a champ. I don't get mad when I'm stuck behind a slowpoke. I just enjoy the experience of driving with the top down. Don't get me wrong, after my mechanic gives it a green light I intend to take this car, top down, on those mountain roads and straightaways and have more fun than I deserve.

Like I said, I'm back in the saddle again!
 

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#33 ·
There may be instructions on American Muscles site? Can check there or Google it and I am sure you will find plenty and videos too of course. Their not hard to do, once you start taking them apart you will quickly see how it all goes together, at least thats how I did mine. About to do mine again since the American Muscle ones I got 2 yrs ago are a pile of crap! And of course they have a 1 yr warranty!

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#34 ·
Unplug the plugs and then a 12mm box wrench to compress the plastic acorn clips they pull right out once that's done.

You will need the Lisle adjusting tool to properly aim the new ones tho.

Also be aware that non OEM lights often suck. For 94-98 I would only replace with OEM cobras or the depo projectors. The depos use separate lights for the hi and lo beams and you can replace the 9006 and 9007 bulbs with snow plow 9011 and 9012 bulbs which are damn near HID level bright without having to deal with HID.

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#36 ·
Thanks

Unplug the plugs and then a 12mm box wrench to compress the plastic acorn clips they pull right out once that's done.

You will need the Lisle adjusting tool to properly aim the new ones tho.

Also be aware that non OEM lights often suck. For 94-98 I would only replace with OEM cobras or the depo projectors. The depos use separate lights for the hi and lo beams and you can replace the 9006 and 9007 bulbs with snow plow 9011 and 9012 bulbs which are damn near HID level bright without having to deal with HID.
I figured on the wrench. I'll order one. Since it going to be 100+ degrees for the next while, I'll wait for cooler weather since I'm doing this on the driveway.

And now you have me worried. The replacements are marked "Made in Taiwan". We'll see.

My Cadillac has HID headlights that steer. I will never get used to headlights that move.
 
#35 ·
For actual video instructions latemodel restoration had a video.

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#38 ·
Well if you don't like the DEPO projectors or don't want to have to deal with having to install a new wiring harness for the DEPOs then I would for sure try to score a set of good OEM Cobra headlights. Secondhand only AFIAK these days although there are enough forums and FB groups for parts where you should be able to find a set for a reasonable price.

Then the projectors which are EASILY the best 94-98 lights available currently. Not even close.

Ford Mustang 1994-1998 Chrome Projector Headlights by Depo Lights - FO2505113

Those are the chrome ones I had. I don't think they are made anymore which is why they are kinda pricey on this site but I prefer them to the black ones personally.

Here are the black ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Depo-330-112...366963&sr=8-1&keywords=depo+projector+mustang

And these are the super high power (HIR) bulbs you can modify to work in the DEPO projectors. They are 75% as bright as a good OEM HID and much brighter than the **** "plug and play" chinese kits that the boy racer crowd puts in stock housings.

HIR1 (9011 ) - 12.8V 65W - PX20D

You have to modify one of the plastic tabs on the 9011 and 9012 bulb bases to work with 9006/9005 sockets which is easy enough with a pair of wire cutters and a file.


Here is my 98 with the DEPOS. Also had GMC Envoy foglights mounted via modified stock brackets which are real nice because they fill up the whole opening completely. If you don't like that but want better than OEM you can use Durango fogs too.
 

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#39 ·
Thanks



I only drive the '98 for fun. I really don't care what others think of it. The stock headlights will do fine. Heck, I haven't even driven the beast in the dark yet!

We are going to Horseshoe Bend for lunch Thursday. 40 miles of twisty mountain roads there and back and with the top down, Big fun! The Road King and CTS-V have done it many times. Time for the Mustang to make the trip. The first of many.
 
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