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mustang mods

2K views 43 replies 10 participants last post by  straybullitt 
#1 ·
hey guys so my 01 gt has the following mods
-bbk tuned length headers with off-road h pipe and magnapacks
-4.10 gears
-bbk 78mm throttle body
-underdrive pulleys
- stage 1 cams
-frame connectors
-hardened trans k member
-steeda tri-x shifter
-cai
- 10.5 inch deep dish bullets in the rear with 315's
- lowering springs
- sct custom tune
what do you guys think is a good mod to do next? should I be worried about detonation at all with the mods I have on the stock 19 lb injectors? I was thinking of maybe upgrading to 30lb injectors for when I do more mods which I plan on doing but idk if I should do that next or if there's other good mods I should look into next to improve my setup instead? also with the stage 1 cams can I rev my car higher then the stock 64-6500? or still keep it in that range? as of now I shift around 6200 when beating on the car and it pulls pretty damn hard for a 2v I think the cams and gears wake it up big time. Also what kind of power do you think I'm making around? I don't want to put it on a dyno for tuning until i do more. I'm thinking around 280ish wheel? lmk what you guys think. thanks
 
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#2 ·
I would toss on a larger intake plenum and MAF. Your stock injectors are doing fine right now.

Also look into an aluminum ported and polished intake. If you pull the heads again have them ported, polished, and port matched. More air in is a good thing.

Running high RPMs would lead me towards stronger valve springs and possibly a valve job.

After this, If you want more power a supercharger would be the best bet due to to your exhaust.
 
#4 ·
I will say I have a few buddies with 2v's and none of them would touch this one. I also spent the least on mine by a few grand lol. so you think my 19lb injectors are doing fine for me? and the throttle body I have is the one piece 78mm throttle body/plenum. I've thought about a bigger maf and also have thought about getting a different intake that's aluminum and porting it. I also deleted the egr after the header install due to the egr tube being destroyed Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mode of transport Supercar
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Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hood Mid-size car
 
#6 ·
You will have to tune for larger injectors. It may not hurt to install them to keep up with future mods. At the moment you have gone about as far as you can with bolt ons.

A lot of the guys here will tell you to swap the heads for a set of 4 valves. I didn't mention swapping heads because you already have cams. Swapping heads would be throwing money away unless you have a buyer for the heads and cams that are on the engine now.
 
#7 ·
thanks I got it for 3200 bucks and havent put that much into it lol. I have no intentions of swapping heads unless there aftermarket like trick flow heads bit have thought about porting stock pi heads. I'm pretty much as far as I can go with bolt ons. I want to do a blower at some point bit not sure if I'd want to on the stock short block
 
#14 ·
My car is basically stock. It is a convertible. When I bought the car it was supposed to be a weekend toy. It has turned into my daily driver right now.

I have an MGW short throw shifter
3.73 years
Drop in K&N filter
A selection of terrible Bama tunes

Everything else about the car came from the factory in regard to engine and drive train.
 
#18 ·
If I ever get things going again I would like to install a full tubular k member and A-arms, with coil overs.

That would remove a little weight from your car, and allow you and free up some HP that is used to haul the factory parts.
 
#19 ·
The 19 lb injectors are almost maxed out supporting the 260 hp PI 2V engines. This is the reason that Ford started using 21 lb injectors on the 02 and later engines. With a simple tune, there is some peak horsepower to be gained by upgrading to the larger injectors.
Really 24 lb injectors are ideal for a bolt on/cammed 2V.

Upgrading to a larger upper plenum is also a good mod.
The stock 80 mm MAF will support around 360 rwhp before you need to start thinking about upgrading to a larger unit.
 
#22 ·
yeah mine has the 21 lb injectors for sure the yellow top ones. I was thinking of just doing 30 lb injectors so if I upgrade more later on I don't have to buy new injectors again. and yes a tubular k member is on my list but a long way up the road lol
 
#30 ·
Revvv are you talking about the Dorman aluminum intake? Those intake are a pile of junk and tend to heat soak. The only aluminum intakes I would consider are the Victor Jr or the Trick Flow. Neither setup is cheap and you won't see much gain on a N/A car.

30lb injectors are overkill on an N/A 2V, unless you're shooting for a max effort N/A build, and are too small to handle forced induction. 8-9psi is the max that the internet recommends for a 2V. My Bullitt ran just fine on 11psi but I am also at a much higher elevation.
 
#32 ·
The injector size should match the current configuration of the engine to avoid making the engine very difficult/or nearly impossible to tune across the ENTIRE rpm range. Ideally, the injector duty cycle should be kept around 85% at WOT.
The problem with the 19 lb injectors is that they are running at above 85% on a stock PI engine. They work fine, but they are considered to be working "too hard", which can cause them to overheat, and fail. Increasing the duty cycle with a tune just makes the problem worse.
On the other hand, for instance, if you use an injector that is sized too large, it may only run at 50% duty cycle during WOT pulls, which doesn't leave a lot of room for tuning the idle and part-throttle of the RPM range.
You want to size the injector, as close as you can, right in that sweet spot. This will ensure that the engine can be tuned to pull hard throughout the entire RPM range, without overworking the fuel injectors.
The beauty of the 21lb and 24 lb injectors is that they were used on many different factory engines, so they are easy to find in wrecking yards for cheap. I've even seen people give them away for the cost of shipping on this website.
 
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