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FINALLY!!!

4K views 48 replies 5 participants last post by  69ponyxprs 
#1 ·
Well guys I finally fired the 4V in my 99 GT! Thanks to all you guys for your helpful input. Except for one connector it was all plug and play. I had to go back and pull another harness off the cobra donor car that had one connector on it that was different from the GT harness. Hope the short video comes thru. Haven?t had much success with attaching photos on this forum.
 

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#4 ·
Nice, hoping for the same next week for me. My 4V swap is basically done. What connector did you need to get? Only one I needed to buy separately was the alternator repair kit for the alt plug. Everything else was just splice/extend.
 
#6 ·
I dunno I didn't run into that on mine? I'm using 100% GT wiring tho.


Anyway post a running vid of it when you can. And I might be bugging you for vac hoses if I get stuck lol. I mean hook ups if I can't figure it out. But it looks like its all real simple where it all goes.
 
#7 ·
Once my phone recharges I?ll get a photo of the harness to show you. Now all I need to do is hang the sheet metal and go try it out. The clutch you suggested feels great Scotty. I also installed a Hurst volley shifter. Love the fact that I can sit comfortably and not have to reach for the shifter now. How?s your build coming along?
 
#11 ·
Yeah I'd like to see what you are talking about so I don't bork something on mine that I missed lol. I'm basically ready to fire mine up once the tune is written and sent. Who tuned yours?

Vacuum lines were simple. I just remembered I do have one vacuum line to connect. But I don?t have any check engine lights on. I have a video but I can?t seem to get it to come up in order to post it.
Yeah there is one I can't figure out where it goes but the rest of them are easy. Honestly it might be to the autometer boost gauge that was already in the car. I'll figure it out. Can always cap it if it doesn't go to anything.
 
#12 ·
Here?s the harness I also replaced with the ecm. Tbh as far as I know it still has the factory tune. Although it wants to idle a little high and slowly ramp down to normal idle. But I have another problem. I think the coolant system is air locked. Ran a little warm today when I was testing it.
 

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#14 ·
Yes gt ECM so I'm not worried about that. Having a guy who came up with svt tune it remotely. Will pull datalogs from the computer and wideband and get it dialed in.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 
#16 ·
Try to burp it. The highest point of the engine is the port on the top of the crossover that's where you can open up while you are burping.

Also the 7/8 cylinders can get hot if you don't have a cooling mod done. I dunno really, could be a lot of things.
 
#17 ·
FORD COBRA 4.6L DOHC REFILL/BURP PROCEDURE
1) Car must be parked level or on a slight incline with the front higher is even better.
2) Remove the radiator reservoir cap and crossover plug. (The crossover plug is normally removed with a ¼” socket drive but is frequently found to be seized. You can damage your ratchet if you apply too much force to remove it. It may be necessary to use a pair of vice grips around the edge of the plug and, in extreme cases, heat it with a torch. I recommend the use of anti-seize or grease on the crossover plug threads upon reinstallation. It is never necessary to tighten the crossover plug much, just snug it, there is an O-ring to seal the system.)
3) Fill the reservoir just past the full line. It is best to add antifreeze (3/4 gal is about 20% concentration) or any additives at this time. Cap the reservoir and you should not need to open the reservoir again. In fact ALWAYS CHECK AND FILL THE SYSTEM AT THE CROSSOVER PLUG after verifying the reservoir is full. (Warning: Do not rely on the reservoir bottle to degas the system or indicate coolant level. The reservoir may show normal level even when there is a large amount of air in the system. There have been those who have lost engines due to not adding coolant at the crossover plug.)
4) Get a funnel and wrap some tape around the tip in order to make a seal with the crossover tube opening. Screw the funnel down into the crossover threads until the funnel seats in firmly.
5) With the reservoir capped, continue adding coolant at the funnel until the funnel fills up an inch or two. Squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to force air pockets out of the piping.
6) Turn the heater temp control to hot. Start the engine and let it idle but occasionally rev the engine a bit to dislodge any trapped air. Add coolant to keep the funnel full if necessary. You will notice many large air pockets escaping at first but eventually the level will rise in the funnel as temperature goes up expanding the coolant. Keep the engine running just until the thermostat starts to open a bit. (About 170-172° with our thermostat) When this happens the upper radiator inlet will be warm to the touch. (It is normal for tiny air bubbles to still be escaping out of the funnel- this happens because the system is open and unpressurized.)
7) Shut off the engine but be ready to add coolant because the level in the funnel may drop as soon as you do so. Quickly unscrew and remove the funnel, top off the coolant and reinstall the crossover plug only snug. (This is done to keep coolant from being expelled because stagnant coolant in the engine becomes heated and starts expanding again) A common mistake is to run the engine too long which creates excessive heat and, instead of dropping, the coolant level rises in the funnel when the engine is shut off. If this happens just reinstall the plug quickly to minimize coolant loss.
8) After 40 min to an hour the engine will still be warm. Slowly remove the crossover plug but use caution because there may still be a little pressure in the system. Top off the coolant again but this time do not reinstall the plug.
9) After 3 to 5 more hours the engine will be completely cooled down and you will need to top off the crossover once more. Reinstall the crossover plug then verify that the reservoir is full. DO NOT OPEN THE RESERVOIR CAP WITH THE CROSSOVER PLUG REMOVED.
10) You may drive the vehicle normally. Make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature. Best to do some highway cruising and/or the engine should see some mid-rpm speeds at minimum.
11) Later or the next day when the vehicle is completely cold again: Do not start the car and do not open the reservoir. Just top off the coolant at the crossover again. If you have to add more than an ounce or two of coolant then repeat this step again after another heat cycle. (For those who want to get every bit of air out you can repeat this step a few times until you can add only a capful of coolant.)
 
#18 ·
Yep, fill it with the crossover cap off like I mentioned lol. Same deal with the 2V basically you just pull the sensor out of the PI crossover and use that as your air escape hole.
 
#20 ·
You?re not gonna believe this.... My crossover pipe is cracked. I couldn?t get the plug out so I tried a pipe wrench. Didn?t work so I stopped wrenching on it because I was scared I was going to rip it. Guess I should?ve never tried that. While burping the system just as the system was getting to operating temp steam began coming out around the seam. Now I?ve got to get another crossover. I want trust this one now. Dammit!
 
#22 ·
On3 makes a full blown braided line "replacment" kit but its pricey. Other than that its used only.

I have a 96-98 one if you want it but the hold downs are different. 96-98 bolts do a different spot. You could use rubber coated clamps to hold it down to the alternator TBTH... the actual pipes are the same as far as dimensions.
 
#26 ·
You can just plug one with the unused sensor or run an aftermarket sender. Although the brackets need to be bent out of the way and another means of holding it down used like clamps or something.

Thanks Scotty. I?ll let you know. Gonna try and find another direct replacement first.
SVTP or ebay. I got mine on ebay but would've saved $20 if I'd have waited another day on SVTP lol.
 
#27 ·
Got her going again! Picked up a used crossover for $75. Burped her just like you guys recommended. Worked just fine. No more clicks and pops now and no more overheating. Once I figure out how to post videos here I?ll post it. Now to install the hood and front fascia then to paint! Thanks again guys for all your help!
 
#29 ·
Not an issue at all. I'm just waiting for a revised startup tune myself and then I'll be firing her up. Videos you should be able to just upload to youtube and then just embed it or post a link to it. Pretty much what everyone does now.
 
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