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Old 12-17-2017, 08:28 PM   #1
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How much on a stock auto tranny

I am looking to add a kenne bell and want to know if my stock 04 auto tranny can take the power. If not, what will I need to do?

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Old 12-18-2017, 06:43 AM   #2
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good for about 400-450 rwhp but a tranny cooler is needed on that set up .
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:38 AM   #3
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The Stock trans will out last your stock bottom end all day long. The motor is what you need to be cautious about not the trans.

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Old 12-18-2017, 07:45 AM   #4
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The Stock trans will out last your stock bottom end all day long. The motor is what you need to be cautious about not the trans.

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this is true for max hp. but run 320rwph on stock 4r70w with no cooler daily it will burn out..
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:56 AM   #5
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this is true for max hp. but run 320rwph on stock 4r70w with no cooler daily it will burn out..

you can use a remote mount cooler like I did on the f100 coyote swap.



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Old 12-18-2017, 05:23 PM   #6
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04 autos had the best transmission Ford ever put in a Mustang until 2011. They got the 4R75w. Your transmission is not what you need to be worrying about as has already been stated. It's actually the strongest part of the stock drivetrain.

I'd be more worried about your suspension setup, fuel and overall condition of the car. If you are still on the stock suspension/control arms and don't have any chassis bracing done yet... you need to do that first.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:45 PM   #7
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What parts of the motor should I upgrade first?

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Old 12-18-2017, 05:50 PM   #8
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Or would I be better off running nos?

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Old 12-18-2017, 06:54 PM   #9
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Or would I be better off running nos?

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Shouldn't run it just for the simple fact of calling it "nos"

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Old 12-18-2017, 09:31 PM   #10
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What parts of the motor should I upgrade first?

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Nothing to do with the engine at all except maybe blower cams if you want to be more power with less boost. None of the "bolt ons" do a damn thing from CAI to pullies etc... snake oil. Good catted midpipe and catback. Then suspension, gears and a good aftermarket stall converter. If you don't have a wideband yet... GET ONE. Wire the analog output into a firewire so you can hook it up to an X3 or X4 for legit datalogging for your tuner when you eventually get the blower or a tune. Do NOT get anything from Bama, get a real remote tune or take it a local dyno tuner that actually knows wtf they are doing.

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Shouldn't run it just for the simple fact of calling it "nos"

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Lol can't exactly argue with that. "NOS" is a brand, calling your Nitrous setup "Naaawwsss" will get you laughed at by ppl with serious rides. Raptinator will be able to recommend a good kit for you from probably NX or Nitrous Works or someone like that if you want to run the bottle.

But as already stated, get the car sorted properly first and READY for your power adder. Dudes have superchargers on stock suspension/tire cars making 400+ on the dyno go the track and run a 13.3 and lose to a NA 2V making 250 with a really good driver and properly setup.

Then there is the question... do you want to be fast in a straight line or do you want to be able to haul *** around corners? I'm just finishing mine up and I went for the latter as I'll be driving it a ton. Will be able to fling it around corners pretty well and cruise at 80mph at 2100. Could really care less about the 1/4 mile with this car but everyone is different and you can build these cars basically however you want.

Then there is the question... by the time you get done doing all the stuff you want to the car and $5k-$6k power adder and what your time is worth plus the original cost of your car... how much are you going to be into it? A nice clean 2011GT with 50k miles will go for $16-$17k right now...
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Old 12-18-2017, 09:42 PM   #11
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The on3 single kit for the 2v's is a really nice kit. I have installed 2 of them on the 2v's and currently still have mine boxed up, waiting for myself to build my new motor.

If you want to go the boost route. Alot more $ is involved with the turbo kit though, as k member ect, has to be purchased as well.

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Old 12-18-2017, 10:21 PM   #12
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If auto the turbo is definitely going to be optimal. But yeah, new K and a lot of times its the UPR K or something... did anyone ever verify if the On3 kit can clear something like a MM K member or the MM K member designed for the Hellion kit?
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:37 PM   #13
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When I went auto my stock 4r70 w lasted about 15 trips down the 1/8th. granted it had about 100k on the tranny before I put it in my Kennebell blown mach. If you plan on running hard, I would plan on it going south.
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Old 12-18-2017, 10:44 PM   #14
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Dudes are pushing well over 600hp on stock 04 transmissions. The 4R75w he has is way stronger than the 03-down 4R70w transmissions. Why if you get an Auto Mach or GT (or Marauder) you always want to get the 04. As long as its been well maintained as in regular fluid changes and still hits all its shift points well I'd run with it as much as the stock bottom on the engine will take.
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Old 12-18-2017, 11:47 PM   #15
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If auto the turbo is definitely going to be optimal. But yeah, new K and a lot of times its the UPR K or something... did anyone ever verify if the On3 kit can clear something like a MM K member or the MM K member designed for the Hellion kit?
I habe the UPR and I used the the same on the 2 customers cars. Not sure what other ones will work

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Old 12-19-2017, 07:53 PM   #16
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Yeah I know they designed it around the UPR and they make their own Ks too right? As much as ppl bash UPR... a LOT of their **** is made in the USA. Same ppl will buy chinese rims and knockoff parts all day and not bat an eye. The K members are USA made, so are the mid pipes and a lot of other stuff. The UPR (VRS) X pipe I have on my car fit like a GLOVE, uses Magnaflow cats and sounds amazing.
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:42 PM   #17
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I have no complaints with UPR I am also running the rear coil-overs from them as well.

They make alot of quality stuff.

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Old 12-19-2017, 08:43 PM   #18
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Or would I be better off running nos?

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I run nitrous my self. I was going to go the fi route, then was going to go swap route but dollar for dollar nitrous was the best set up for me , as i goto the strip about 8 - 10 times and casual weekend driver 6 months of the year.

i raced a vortech v2 water meth injection intercooled and he had about 3000 in tuning time and i beat him. he was unimpressed lol

as stated it really is what you want to do. if you want a strip car nitrous is best bet for dollar. if you want a daily driver with power on tap then FI is a better route. but it's definitely a lot more expensive route
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:45 PM   #19
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Nitrous is far from a cheaper alternative. It adds up i had a little over 5,000 in my last nitrous setup on my coyote.

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Old 12-19-2017, 09:06 PM   #20
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Nitrous is far from a cheaper alternative. It adds up i had a little over 5,000 in my last nitrous setup on my coyote.

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that may be the case for your self. I have less than half of that. less than what the guy had in tuning. so yes it is a much cheaper alternative since the v2 setup was about 8k.

1650~ < 8000

mind you i do all install and tuning my self but none the less still cheaper.

nitrous kit 700, blow down , heater, purge, gauge 350 , window switch 250 , relay ,plugs, wiring, odds and ends 50, svt fuel pump 250.

that's enough for a beginners set up before tuning. and safe for 125 shot
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:14 PM   #21
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What you don't just buy the cheapest possible Zex kit and run it with no tune and then write a really long negative review when you blow up your engine?
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:17 PM   #22
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What you don't just buy the cheapest possible Zex kit and run it with no tune and then write a really long negative review when you blow up your engine?
Of course I wanted to go that route but American muscle wouldn't post my negative review lol
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Old 12-19-2017, 09:22 PM   #23
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Ahahah I literally Lol'd just now. Well played sirrah.
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Old 12-20-2017, 01:20 PM   #24
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Well said, wondering what the OP's reply will be?


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Nothing to do with the engine at all except maybe blower cams if you want to be more power with less boost. None of the "bolt ons" do a damn thing from CAI to pullies etc... snake oil. Good catted midpipe and catback. Then suspension, gears and a good aftermarket stall converter. If you don't have a wideband yet... GET ONE. Wire the analog output into a firewire so you can hook it up to an X3 or X4 for legit datalogging for your tuner when you eventually get the blower or a tune. Do NOT get anything from Bama, get a real remote tune or take it a local dyno tuner that actually knows wtf they are doing.



Lol can't exactly argue with that. "NOS" is a brand, calling your Nitrous setup "Naaawwsss" will get you laughed at by ppl with serious rides. Raptinator will be able to recommend a good kit for you from probably NX or Nitrous Works or someone like that if you want to run the bottle.

But as already stated, get the car sorted properly first and READY for your power adder. Dudes have superchargers on stock suspension/tire cars making 400+ on the dyno go the track and run a 13.3 and lose to a NA 2V making 250 with a really good driver and properly setup.

Then there is the question... do you want to be fast in a straight line or do you want to be able to haul *** around corners? I'm just finishing mine up and I went for the latter as I'll be driving it a ton. Will be able to fling it around corners pretty well and cruise at 80mph at 2100. Could really care less about the 1/4 mile with this car but everyone is different and you can build these cars basically however you want.

Then there is the question... by the time you get done doing all the stuff you want to the car and $5k-$6k power adder and what your time is worth plus the original cost of your car... how much are you going to be into it? A nice clean 2011GT with 50k miles will go for $16-$17k right now...
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:37 PM   #25
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I've found that about 3/4 of the time people just really don't want to hear that their "mods" or planned "mods" don't do a damn thing. They'll either just go to another forum or ignore until someone tells them what they want to hear.

-Exhaust
-Gears
-Suspension
-Tune
-Power Adder and any/all supporting mods to make it reliable

If you don't want to do a power adder then some Cushman 2.5 NA cams and a real good tune with a little more fuel should get you near 300whp and 11 second 1/4 miles with a real good driver and good track/conditions.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:41 PM   #26
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Everyone always leaves the intake manifolds out on 2v builds. Which is flat out ignorant, on a build status.

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Old 12-20-2017, 07:03 PM   #27
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If you are going to get into the internals hell yes. But for stock bottom and heads? Better money spent elsewhere IMO.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:15 PM   #28
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Everyone always leaves the intake manifolds out on 2v builds. Which is flat out ignorant, on a build status.

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to be honest ive left mine stock , as i have stock heads and block. if i were to change that. well yes different story, but no real performance gains on stock, imho.

I'm also not to worried about manifold explosion as i always have enough velocity to prevent pooling as i only spray through 2900-5500 rpm.

but ill tell you this. if i was going to have detonation id rather my cheap composite plastic take all the energy.

and there dirt cheap at the wreckers. I have 2 mint spares that cost next to nothing.
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