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Old 01-24-2018, 01:35 PM   #1
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manual swap

wonderING whats all involved in swaping my 03 mach 1 to a t56 magnum
prices/every part ill need and recomendations
as always thank you
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Old 01-24-2018, 02:38 PM   #2
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If you are looking for 1/4 mile performance you'll be slower with the stick.

To answer your question. Manual trans harness, retune of auto computer for manual, manual pedals, clutch, clutch cable, driveshaft yoke, shifter and t56 crossmember.

Honestly... auto mach is the best drag car that Ford made before the 2011 automatics... I'd leave it, get a good converter and tune and 4.10s and roll.
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2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048 34k miles. 99 Cobra 4V swapped, FTBR IRS swapped, exhaust, tuned by James Gordon.

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 01-24-2018, 03:54 PM   #3
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I mean yes the trans is good it has about 100k miles on it if I was drag racing id leave it but I mostly do canyon runs so I've decided to manual swap it well when I can afford to do so
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:14 PM   #4
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Also my buddy has an 02 v6 with a a blown motor I could pick up for 400 so I could theoretically have a complete t5 swap
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:24 PM   #5
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No you couldn't that T5 has a different bellhousing and is V6 spec, it'd grenade in 2 seconds. Also with the Magnum/T56 you lose the 3.37 first gear that the 3650 has and the 4.6L 4V needs NA. If you want to manual swap it, get a gone through 3650 from Pro Force Performance in Atlanta and then grab all the swap parts off a blown up 03/04 GT out of a yard.

Or... sell it and buy a stick.
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2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048 34k miles. 99 Cobra 4V swapped, FTBR IRS swapped, exhaust, tuned by James Gordon.

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:27 PM   #6
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And that's why I ask people who would know haha
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:41 PM   #7
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I mean really the swap is not hard, its actually stupid easy on any 99-04 since they all share the same "HARD" harness.

Swap the trans harness to the manual one, swap pedals, remove the trans and the plumbing and the cooler, install the manual trans, shifter, clutch and clutch cable etc... and just put it all back together. If you do not have lift access I would not. Working on stuff like this without a lift=no. At least for me.

Up to you what you want to do. Again, the swap is not tough... not even time consuming if you have done trans swaps before... not really. But... a lot of ppl go into these cars thinking "omg auto=teh suck I'm gonna swap!"... when not realizing the car is now slower... actually a LOT slower unless you are corner carving. This is not to say that one or the other is better for YOU... but if you are just thinking straight line performance then no. There were only two 4V cars from Ford with the auto, 03 and 04 Mach. The late 03/04 was best with the 4R75w transmission but if you are still NA and not looking to push more than the stock engine can handle then the 03 4R70w trans is more than fine.

Again... up to you.
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Old 01-24-2018, 04:43 PM   #8
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Sounds pretty straight forward I know quite a few people with lifts so it wouldn't be a problem thanks for the info
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Old 01-24-2018, 06:02 PM   #9
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Yeah if you have lift access and actually seriously look into everything and a good set of tools and a helper go for it. Lots of e-racers make transmission work out to be like... black magic or something. TBTH, with a lift I can do a trans replacement about as fast as it would take to do brakes on all 4 corners and bleed.

I'd still leave it and just do a good converter and J-mod and fluids but that's me. Just make sure you have a helper, a good set of 1/2 extensions and a good breaker bar to get at the top trans bolts and roll. Lean the engine back as far as it'll go till it hits the firewall and you'll be able to reach up and get a socket on the top trans bolts with a universal. Hold socket on the bolt while a helper breaks them loose with like 4 ft of extensions going to a good breaker bar and that's really the hardest part.

Remember, you are a 6 bolt crank, not 8 since the auto machs are cast cranks. This is not a big deal... another thing the e-racers blow out of proportion. Cast cranks are super strong and lighter than forged. TBTH, for any application staying under 7000 rpm or so (more if NA) the cast crank is actually better because its lighter. And free. Anyway... that means you need a 6 bolt flywheel. Get the Luk unit from Rockauto. There is a cheaper one by AMS or something on there too... that one is super thick and does not fit. Clutch... Exedy Mach 400. Use the pilot and TOB it comes with, they are good quality as Exedy is an OEM supplier. For clutch cable... OEM Ford or Max Motorsports (which is OEM Ford). MM quadrant, your choice of firewall adjuster. The rest? Harness you get out of the JY, same with pedals. Computer tuning I'd get ahold of James Gordon from "Tuning by James". Good price, great guy, came up with SVT and the Terminator project. Currently tunes for Steeda plus other companies plus on the side. Driveshaft is the same, you'll need the 31 spline 96-04 manual trans yoke which is easy to get. Shifter... $100 used Tri ax is fine or just get a MGW new. Misc nuts and bolts from JY or Latemodel resto. Um... the tunnel is a little different where the shifter mounts and might need modified, I know if you are swapping stick to auto you need to bolt the auto shifter from underneath, can't remember for auto to manual bit it should just be trimming or shimming.

Transmission... Stan at Pro Force Performance bought out the t45/3650 source a few years back and is really your best bet for a transmission. Figure $1400 for a well done 3650 that has all the TSBs done and shifts like butter. Get it with the .62 overdrive for highway cruising. Remember that a 3650 has internal stops so if you get a shifter with stops just remove the stop bolts. I have 0 idea why they even make them with stops but whatever. Fill for the 3650 is 3.2 quarts, not 3.8 quarts. Recommend Pennzoil Synchromesh... you'll understand why once you shift a 3650 with that fluid. Break in for clutch is 500 miles, go easy. After that change the trans fluid too and then beat the **** out of it. Um... trying to think what else... Might need a manual crossmember... um... really all I can think of I'm probably forgetting something, its been a minute. Of all the stuff I just did with my swap the original 34k mile manual trans was not something I had to worry about lol. The reverse switch might be different... the 99-04 cars were all OSS speedos so that is not something you really need to worry about. If the tuner asks, the 3650 is a 12 pulse pickup for the speedo. The 4R70w is a 6 pulse the 4R75w is a 24. You can google the way to tell visually which one you have but something like 90% of the 03s got the 4R70w.

Besides that just misc bolts and probably a few bloody knuckles and a lot of 4 letter words. Oh and sensor for the clutch so you can only start the car with the clutch pushed in. That's optional but guarantee you'll eventually try to start it in gear and hope you aren't close to a wall or another car or something...
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2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048 34k miles. 99 Cobra 4V swapped, FTBR IRS swapped, exhaust, tuned by James Gordon.

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 01-24-2018, 06:10 PM   #10
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Wow that's pretty helpful thank you screenshotted all of that for future reference
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:41 PM   #11
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NP. Not hard. I've done a zillion trans swaps it feels like. These cars are easy to work on. Just remember that 75% of posters online are info recyclers and have never done something like this.
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2000 Mustang GT Steeda #0048 34k miles. 99 Cobra 4V swapped, FTBR IRS swapped, exhaust, tuned by James Gordon.

Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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