A friend I haven't seen in a number of years will be in town that Fri-Sat. So, I can't commit for sure just yet, but have penciled it in on my calendar nonetheless.
Will know more as my schedule firms up closer to the date.
I now have upgraded brakes (smart enough to know it's a visual mod only) and here is a photo mid point of putting on my brand new summer shoes. I found the rim comparison interesting to see which I prefer.
Thx D for selling me your take-offs when you went to Brembo's
Thx R for use of lift and helping with the brakes.
Looking forward to it! Looks like I'll have to alter my list of pre-cruise maintenance. Just noticed that the design of the Steeda hood struts is causing the lower brackets to gouge the sheet metal inside the engine bay. Found some from MRT that have a better design--might order those up and swap 'em out in the next two weeks.
Two weeks out so it's time for the official start time and place Plz note early start time!!!
Cruise start time:
10:00 AM
Saturday July 29th (Rain date is Sunday)
Staples: 900 Washington St, Middletown, CT 06457
Plz park on the street side of Staples
This is 100+ miles of 3rd gear fun on twisty back roads. We will have a short stop after 2 hrs of fun for those who had too much coffee then continue on ending up at Rob's house in Cheshire for Pizza! Plz bring a folding chair.
These rides are at your own risk! by coming along you agree that you alone are responsible for whatever happens
reminder to have Walkie Talkies & 3/4 of a tank of Gas
Rob, Myself and some regulars are meeting at Staples at 9:00 and walking over to the Athenian Diner for breakfast before the ride. If you want to come early and join us that'll be good, otherwise be at Staples for the 10:00 start time. There is a gas station/Mini-mart across the street and a McD's next door for those that need stuff.
Welp, a potential spanner in the works for me. Water pump is giving up the ghost.
For a while I thought I had imagined getting a few whiffs of coolant smell. Well, today, it was a real noseful. I peeked under the hood and there's a nice sheen of coolant on the front of the block below the water pump. I've topped off the reservoir and can nurse the car with local driving until the replacement comes in, but will have to move myself into the "maybe" column for now.
How much of a task is it to burp the system after swapping out the pumps?
i installed black MMD struts and they worked great. then decided to add a touch of white lithium grease to the tiny ball joints at the ends, and also decided to add a touch to the shiny sliding shaft that goes in and out. the struts still worked great! ....... about 6 times, before the grease on the shafts kicked in, and now the hood slowwly closes on my head. and now they will not hold up the hood. DUH!!
i cleaned them but no soap, got to get another pair. live and learn.
I meant the pump doesn't look bad to replace.....I find for burping systems to let it come up to temp/with heat in the on position with the cap loose to the 1st position tends to work well.
I'm cheap but I would do it. If you are keeping the car it's also time to do belts/hoses/tstat. And you wanted to have fun this wknd......do it so you can have fun next wknd.
Good point. I replaced the S-belt and tensioner fairly recently. I didn't think to order a new t-stat and hoses--oops. I'll make do with the pump, seals, and fresh fluid (looks like Prestone makes an orange coolant that meets Ford's spec) for now and plan to do an early flush next year and replace the rest.
As an alternative, I also called the local (good) independent shop that I've been using for the last couple of years and they're giving me the whole "we don't install customer supplied parts but will make an exception" routine. This hasn't been an issue the last couple of times I've used them, and they know I provide at-least-OEM-quality new parts. And it's not rocket science to diagnose a bad water pump on these cars. I guess it's mostly a profit thing?
Haha. Indeed it was the last one to go in. Since it snapped at such a low torque, the broken piece could be removed with fingers. Maybe Ford designed the bolts to break before they have a chance to gall the threads in the aluminum block, but I think I just got lucky.
yeah......instead of designing a pump that would last 100K they instead did the research into figuring out how quickly the bolts would gall and made it so the pump would fail first and designed the bolts to break forcing you to replace them.
Good for you. I have plenty of Last one experiences. In some cases I think I loose my focus and s--t happens.
OK you got me. What the hell is a gall'ed bolt?
Basically deformed threads that have seized together. If you gorilla a steel bolt in a tapped aluminum hole, you'll probably destroy the threads in the softer aluminum first, maybe getting your bolt stuck (that's what she said).
thx. never heard the term before. i have drilled and tapped galled threads to a larger size. never in an aluminum block though.
don't want to ever go there.
True dat. I'm just glad the thing doesn't leak worse after the pump replacement! LOL.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Mustang Evolution Forum
2.1M posts
50.8K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Ford Mustang owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, horsepower, modifications, troubleshooting, racing, and more!