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Old 10-07-2013, 11:12 AM   #36
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Just boost the 2v more when the cobra boosts more. Still cheaper than the overall price and modding the cobra.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:14 AM   #37
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Just boost the 2v more when the cobra boosts more. Still cheaper than the overall price and modding the cobra.
Once the 2v gets to 400 you will need to tear into the motor and start forging stuff. The Termi will go past 650 on the stock motor. And pound for pound of boost the Termi is getting far better numbers.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #38
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User on here has been boosted at about 10psi on stock at 460hp/tq for over a year zero issues. The supercharger he has cost about 5k and can be be boosted up way more to make over 700hp 20psi is recommended max for that supercharger. Let's say forging will cost him 4k so he has only spent about 9k with a few bolt ons as well still. He already told me he plans on boosting past 700hp soon.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:59 AM   #39
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User on here has been boosted at about 10psi on stock at 460hp/tq for over a year zero issues. The supercharger he has cost about 5k and can be be boosted up way more to make over 700hp 20psi is recommended max for that supercharger. Let's say forging will cost him 4k so he has only spent about 9k with a few bolt ons as well still. He already told me he plans on boosting past 700hp soon.
460whp is not normal and that car is a factory freak and likely running on borrowed time. Then again it might hold awhile. I wouldn't risk it but not my car.

Here is a GREAT 2V build thread that will take pretty much power as the turbo can muster.

Turbo/automatic Bullitt build thread - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum

edit: Although with all the people throwing out guesstimations on cost and whatever it'll cost to do a build. Take whatever number you have come up with and double it. Then you'll be around what you'll wind up spending. You're looking at around $15k out of pocket to build a forged supercharged motor with 6 spd with a nice suspension setup and fuel system like you get in the Cobra right out of the box and that's not including the cost of the car. Like I said though one of the biggest reasons I'm not selling my 98 and just getting a Termi or a 2011+ 5.0 is I am not going to do car payments anymore after my last 2 are paid off in a few years. Interest/full coverage/monthly payments is a joke on something that depreciates like a rock.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:03 PM   #40
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I'm not saying you should go that high unless you want to blow it and have the money to forge already, just saying it has been done. And nice link, when making big power built auto is the way to go.
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #41
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Yeah I know its been done, hell a lot of guys with 5.0s and turbos find its cheaper to have 2 or 3 spare engines in the garage and just boost to 550-600whp on and run the motor they have till it blows. Then just trailer the car home, swap the motor in a few hours (literally) and go back the next weekend for more.

If you want something to last you build it right and I'm talking from personal experience when I say it'll cost at least 50% more than it should on paper if not double.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:35 PM   #42
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Yeah I know its been done, hell a lot of guys with 5.0s and turbos find its cheaper to have 2 or 3 spare engines in the garage and just boost to 550-600whp on and run the motor they have till it blows. Then just trailer the car home, swap the motor in a few hours (literally) and go back the next weekend for more. If you want something to last you build it right and I'm talking from personal experience when I say it'll cost at least 50% more than it should on paper if not double.
Yeah.. Building it right is costing me a ton more than I first anticipated. But I see the value behind it.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:41 PM   #43
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Yeah.. Building it right is costing me a ton more than I first anticipated. But I see the value behind it.
Value personally yes, value $$$ wise no. That's the problem you mod something nice that holds its value and you shouldn't drive it. You mod something that doesn't matter if you drive it all the time and you never see your money again haha.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:12 PM   #44
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Value personally yes, value $$$ wise no. That's the problem you mod something nice that holds its value and you shouldn't drive it. You mod something that doesn't matter if you drive it all the time and you never see your money again haha.
I guess it's a good thing I never had intentions of this car being an investment.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:34 PM   #45
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I guess it's a good thing I never had intentions of this car being an investment.
Yeah in this hobby you never should. If you want a good laugh go on craigslist and look at some of the prices guys want. They look at kbb then what they paid for all the mods and add it and think that its what the car is worth. Sorry your 99 Eclipse turbo awd with 120k is not worth $23k...
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:54 PM   #46
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Lol yeah thats so true ^
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:35 PM   #47
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Yeah in this hobby you never should. If you want a good laugh go on craigslist and look at some of the prices guys want. They look at kbb then what they paid for all the mods and add it and think that its what the car is worth. Sorry your 99 Eclipse turbo awd with 120k is not worth $23k...
okay if I wanna start from scratch, Leave my 2v in my car, and build a 2v/4v what block should I start with, and build it from the ground up full forged and boosted. where and from what should I pull a block from.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:30 AM   #48
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okay if I wanna start from scratch, Leave my 2v in my car, and build a 2v/4v what block should I start with, and build it from the ground up full forged and boosted. where and from what should I pull a block from.
A wrecked 5.0 in a junkyard lol. I'm keeping my 2v running and building a teksid block on the side that way im not without my gt for longer then i need to be lol. But really a romeo or Windsor block would be fine too, just depends if the extra 80ish lbs bothers you
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:07 AM   #49
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okay if I wanna start from scratch, Leave my 2v in my car, and build a 2v/4v what block should I start with, and build it from the ground up full forged and boosted. where and from what should I pull a block from.
You can't go wrong with any modular block really. I will always recommend the Teksid though. It'll hold whatever you can throw at it and weighs 85lbs. Less weight on the nose of these cars is ALWAYS welcome and 85lbs is a LOT. That's another benefit of staying 2V, heads weigh less, 2 less cams, less valvetrain, less parasitic loss etc... Also cheaper to do 2V heads if you stick with the PI heads. Personally I think TFS 2V heads are not worth it since you can do a gone through set of C heads for the same price.

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A wrecked 5.0 in a junkyard lol. I'm keeping my 2v running and building a teksid block on the side that way im not without my gt for longer then i need to be lol. But really a romeo or Windsor block would be fine too, just depends if the extra 80ish lbs bothers you
I found my Teksid on a forum classified about 2 hours from me. I prefer to use the corral for almost all my purchases since I can often dig back through the member's threads and see what sort of car person they are. You can see if you are buying a part from some idiot who tried putting a 300 shot of "NAAAWWWSS YO!" on his 230k mile NPI 2V or a person who had a nice tasteful, well kept car and seemed like he knew wtf he/she was talking about. For my block it was the latter and I even saw the car when I went to get the block/crank since he had put a new motor in it and was selling it. Looked good.
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:31 PM   #50
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You can't go wrong with any modular block really. I will always recommend the Teksid though. It'll hold whatever you can throw at it and weighs 85lbs. Less weight on the nose of these cars is ALWAYS welcome and 85lbs is a LOT. That's another benefit of staying 2V, heads weigh less, 2 less cams, less valvetrain, less parasitic loss etc... Also cheaper to do 2V heads if you stick with the PI heads. Personally I think TFS 2V heads are not worth it since you can do a gone through set of C heads for the same price. I found my Teksid on a forum classified about 2 hours from me. I prefer to use the corral for almost all my purchases since I can often dig back through the member's threads and see what sort of car person they are. You can see if you are buying a part from some idiot who tried putting a 300 shot of "NAAAWWWSS YO!" on his 230k mile NPI 2V or a person who had a nice tasteful, well kept car and seemed like he knew wtf he/she was talking about. For my block it was the latter and I even saw the car when I went to get the block/crank since he had put a new motor in it and was selling it. Looked good.
Hell yeah man i completely understand lol. I may be purchasing 2 fully assembled teksid blocks for $900 (one for me and one for my brothers 95 sixer) from a guy my brother works with. He's asking for a bit more buuut my brother knows him fairly well. I need to join more forums lol, this and camaro5 are the only ones im part of :/
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Old 10-09-2013, 11:02 AM   #51
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$900 for two running 4V engines would be good. If its just for the shortblocks... that is a rape unless one or both are built.
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