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Old 10-14-2013, 09:43 PM   #1
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Tune

Which tune is the best for 2013 5.0
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:49 PM   #2
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Use the search feature for Christ sake
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #3
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The best tune is the one that makes it fastest and safest and best mpg for cheap. JK read and read this is not something to rush on.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:23 AM   #4
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There have been comparisons to a lot of the popular email canned tunes and they are all within a few +\-6hp or so of each other. I forget the power curve comparison though.

Custom tune may squeeze an extra few horses out of a stock car with maybe exhaust and intake work but nothing worth the few hundred dollar extra for the dyno and tune time.

Go with whoever you feel most comfortable with. If you know people who have had successful and positive experiences then go with their shop.

Unless you NOS or FI or cam (well cam and bolt ons you maybe be able to get away with email tunes) you don't need custom tune.

These tunes don't blow motors up. Motor defects and general wear and tear blow motors up. Tunes just add more stress when under wot so if you got bad part kaboom. Well unless it was tuned wrong. Then the tune blew your motor up.
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:54 AM   #5
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Doesn't the search button work?
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:46 AM   #6
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Use the search feature for Christ sake
Bravo
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:20 PM   #7
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There have been comparisons to a lot of the popular email canned tunes and they are all within a few +\-6hp or so of each other. I forget the power curve comparison though.

Custom tune may squeeze an extra few horses out of a stock car with maybe exhaust and intake work but nothing worth the few hundred dollar extra for the dyno and tune time.

Go with whoever you feel most comfortable with. If you know people who have had successful and positive experiences then go with their shop.

Unless you NOS or FI or cam (well cam and bolt ons you maybe be able to get away with email tunes) you don't need custom tune.

These tunes don't blow motors up. Motor defects and general wear and tear blow motors up. Tunes just add more stress when under wot so if you got bad part kaboom. Well unless it was tuned wrong. Then the tune blew your motor up.
What would be the absolute best way to see what parts are wearing out/damaged?

I got the most aggressive tune going on (hybrid) on 93 octane, so, I want to make sure everything is top notch.
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:31 PM   #8
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What would be the absolute best way to see what parts are wearing out/damaged?

I got the most aggressive tune going on (hybrid) on 93 octane, so, I want to make sure everything is top notch.
Maybe others can chime in but generally if you check for any fluid leaks under the engine and around the head. Check your coolant to see if there's anything in it other than coolant.

Rough idle could denote compromised seals or gaskets but not usually or always so. Could mean an exhaust leak. Could also be clogged injectors or filter. Rough idle and rough acceleration can also be vacuum leak.

Any metallic clacking that's loud and audible changes in pitch and frequency but so can some exhaust leak.

Smoke from the tailpipe not during cold morning startups or keeps smoking even after warm ups. Colored smoke is bad.

Knocking (aka detonation) sounds like sand in a tin can is bad. Stop driving if you hear that.

Basically, if it sounds like and leaks like an old man with a crackling metal hip joint on diapers. That joint shouldn't make a sound. Means internally not lubed sufficiently or the socket is worn and is about to bust. That diaper should be dry (minus the condensation of the AC compressor aka body sweat).
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:39 AM   #9
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Maybe others can chime in but generally if you check for any fluid leaks under the engine and around the head. Check your coolant to see if there's anything in it other than coolant. Rough idle could denote compromised seals or gaskets but not usually or always so. Could mean an exhaust leak. Could also be clogged injectors or filter. Rough idle and rough acceleration can also be vacuum leak. Any metallic clacking that's loud and audible changes in pitch and frequency but so can some exhaust leak. Smoke from the tailpipe not during cold morning startups or keeps smoking even after warm ups. Colored smoke is bad. Knocking (aka detonation) sounds like sand in a tin can is bad. Stop driving if you hear that. Basically, if it sounds like and leaks like an old man with a crackling metal hip joint on diapers. That joint shouldn't make a sound. Means internally not lubed sufficiently or the socket is worn and is about to bust. That diaper should be dry (minus the condensation of the AC compressor aka body sweat).

Lol What the hell
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Old 10-16-2013, 07:56 AM   #10
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Lol What the hell
O_o ?
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:59 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by DallasStang77 View Post

Maybe others can chime in but generally if you check for any fluid leaks under the engine and around the head. Check your coolant to see if there's anything in it other than coolant.

Rough idle could denote compromised seals or gaskets but not usually or always so. Could mean an exhaust leak. Could also be clogged injectors or filter. Rough idle and rough acceleration can also be vacuum leak.

Any metallic clacking that's loud and audible changes in pitch and frequency but so can some exhaust leak.

Smoke from the tailpipe not during cold morning startups or keeps smoking even after warm ups. Colored smoke is bad.

Knocking (aka detonation) sounds like sand in a tin can is bad. Stop driving if you hear that.

Basically, if it sounds like and leaks like an old man with a crackling metal hip joint on diapers. That joint shouldn't make a sound. Means internally not lubed sufficiently or the socket is worn and is about to bust. That diaper should be dry (minus the condensation of the AC compressor aka body sweat).
Thanks man.
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