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Old 11-13-2013, 12:11 AM   #1
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Stall Converter

I searched but didn't find a good answer.
Also I didn't post In a specific section cuz maybe it will help everyone.

Ok so.. Can someone explain to me the whole "stall converter" thing?

I know stock ones have a rating too, just aftermarket ones are higher.

What EXACTLY does it do?

Will it work well with 4.10 gears?

Also I know to get a tranny cooler.

What is a valve body?

Does it so the same thing?
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:11 AM   #2
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Well a convertor is basically a hydraulic clutch. The higher the stall, the more RPMs it takes to reach full lock/engagement (somebody correct me if I'm wrong)

A valve body is what the transmission uses to determine when to shift (I'm coming at this from an old school C4 valve body because that's what I learned on) using hydraulic pressure from the pump. It diverts transmission fluid through various channels and valves to engage or disengage your bands. A performance oriented one is just designed to firm up the shifts and possibly make it shift faster. It does not add any sort of cooling at all so a cooler is necessary either way.
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:05 AM   #3
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you'll love your gears with a stall converter. How big do you wanna go┬┐
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:18 AM   #4
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Look it up on you tube
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:16 AM   #5
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Valve body shifts the trans. Converter is like your clutch but for an automatic. Example a 2500 rpm stall converter will begin to lock up when you hit the gas, fully locking up at 2500 rpm. They also multiply torque on the initial hit usually at 2.5:1 for a good aftermarket one which is why a stalled automatic leaves harder than a stick shift off the line.

Bolt on PI 2V with 4.10s, tuned and a 3500 rpm stall is good for mid 12s without touching the heads/cam/intake.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Valve body shifts the trans. Converter is like your clutch but for an automatic. Example a 2500 rpm stall converter will begin to lock up when you hit the gas, fully locking up at 2500 rpm. They also multiply torque on the initial hit usually at 2.5:1 for a good aftermarket one which is why a stalled automatic leaves harder than a stick shift off the line.

Bolt on PI 2V with 4.10s, tuned and a 3500 rpm stall is good for mid 12s without touching the heads/cam/intake.
There is a lot of wrong in this post, but your general concept of the stall converter is okay enough I won't say anything. Oh and stall converters have no "full lock up" otherwise they would have no stall. The stall is a measurement of the difference of speed between the two rotating masses within the torque converter. Usually you could figure around a 3-8% "slip rate" which means if the impeller is spinning at 3000rpm then the turbine would spin at 2850 or 5% slower if we average it. This slipping is what determines the stall speed of the converter and by changing the angle of the impeller the manufacturers can create a converter with a different stall speed and torque multiplication.
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:31 AM   #7
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I already did look it up in YouTube but I want a good explanation of what I'm looking at.

Also what do you guys mean by it "locks up"

So say I wanted to get a 3500 stall, would this be a good bolt on for my car? How does this effect my cars DD habits??

(You guys are probably tired of all the 4.10 vs 3.73 threads so this should be a nice change of pace lol)

---------- Post added at 07:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 AM ----------

Let's say I was trying to get a good launch. if I step on the brake and press the gas, would I have to rev it beyond 3500 or slightly below?
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Old 11-13-2013, 10:36 AM   #8
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Watched a video and saw this:


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Old 11-13-2013, 11:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee20e View Post
Watched a video and saw this:
All of that is true
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:33 AM   #10
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All of that is true
sobehats a good stall for a PI cam?
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:37 AM   #11
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sobehats a good stall for a PI cam?
I would give a call to BTS, monster transmission, troyer or a reputable company you like and order a 2800rpm stall. It's pointless to get a 3500 or similar if its not a track car. Just causes more wear and tear.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:52 PM   #12
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I found this on google
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by travisb.young66 View Post
I found this on google
Wow that was good reading thanks!
So basically the stall is used to get your car into the desired powerband in order to get a proper launch.

Since a cammed car moves the PB up to rev more you would need a higher stall

But since I have stock H/C, I would use a lower one.

But I have read that the holding the brake down while giving it gas is the wrong way to launch a car like this is bad and can cause tons of damage.

So to launch a stalled car would it be better to press the gas from idle to get a good launch?
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:09 PM   #14
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Who did you hear that from? How else do you launch an auto? Hold break and gas wont do anything if you just hold it for a lil while but i think you have to do that for a stall converter im really out of my element on this one all i know really is from this article haha
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:19 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by travisb.young66 View Post
Who did you hear that from? How else do you launch an auto? Hold break and gas wont do anything if you just hold it for a lil while but i think you have to do that for a stall converter im really out of my element on this one all i know really is from this article haha
It was something I read while I was looking at articles too
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:20 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ZLwhat View Post
There is a lot of wrong in this post, but your general concept of the stall converter is okay enough I won't say anything. Oh and stall converters have no "full lock up" otherwise they would have no stall. The stall is a measurement of the difference of speed between the two rotating masses within the torque converter. Usually you could figure around a 3-8% "slip rate" which means if the impeller is spinning at 3000rpm then the turbine would spin at 2850 or 5% slower if we average it. This slipping is what determines the stall speed of the converter and by changing the angle of the impeller the manufacturers can create a converter with a different stall speed and torque multiplication.
I'm trying to keep it simple in layman's terms... sheesh...

But lockup converters do lockup fully, that's what the stub shaft is for. But that's controlled by the ECU or manually locking via a switch if you are running a MVB.

---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:19 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee20e View Post
Watched a video and saw this:


Attachment 136289

Last rule of thumb is null and void for a locking converter. The ECU will lock it up in overdrive or if you run a MVB you lock it whenever you want. That's why there is the main input shaft and the stub shaft on a transmission like the 4R.

As for what stall speed... yeah 2800-3000 for the street. Do realize that if you add more HP later on the stall speed will change. Not really much but if you drop a blower on a 260whp and up it to 400 then you'll want a re-stall.

Btw, I've seen plenty of ppl running way higher than that on the street though, really boils down to personal preference.
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:33 PM   #17
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I'm trying to keep it simple in layman's terms... sheesh... But lockup converters do lockup fully, that's what the stub shaft is for. But that's controlled by the ECU or manually locking via a switch if you are running a MVB. ---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:19 PM ---------- Last rule of thumb is null and void for a locking converter. The ECU will lock it up in overdrive or if you run a MVB you lock it whenever you want. That's why there is the main input shaft and the stub shaft on a transmission like the 4R. As for what stall speed... yeah 2800-3000 for the street. Do realize that if you add more HP later on the stall speed will change. Not really much but if you drop a blower on a 260whp and up it to 400 then you'll want a re-stall. Btw, I've seen plenty of ppl running way higher than that on the street though, really boils down to personal preference.
I don't plan on putting a P/A anytime soon (119,000 mi) but if I were to throw to some spray (just for example) should I change the stall then too?

Do people but used torque converters? Lol

---------- Post added at 11:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:31 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee20e View Post
I don't plan on putting a P/A anytime soon (119,000 mi) but if I were to throw to some spray (just for example) should I change the stall then too? Do people but used torque converters? Lol
*buy
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:38 PM   #18
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You can, YMMV on the condition. Freakshow does single disc stalls for $400 and triples for $600 that are just as good as the PI stuff. If you know PI stuff, that's half price...
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:52 PM   #19
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This has been a very informative thread. Thanks to all who helped educate me today
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Old 11-13-2013, 01:57 PM   #20
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Honestly, look up "Freakshow Performance" on Google or Facebook and give him a call. He is a very helpful guy and his stall converters are top notch. You'll see plenty of Google hits and positive reviews on various forums from ppl using his stuff and like I said its half the price of PI or some of the other big name guys. Don't get me wrong, PI makes a badass converter but if you can get the same quality somewhere else I don't know why you wouldn't.
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