Ugh, more ppl caught up in dyno numbers. The ONLY number that matters is the time slip. 2Vs respond GREAT to bolt ons. Gears, full bolt ons, good suspension and a driver mod and you have a 12 second car. Cams make you a low 12 second car at least. If you are auto you can set these 2Vs up to drag race like a mofo. I've seen bolt on automatic 2V cars with a really well put together suspension setup beat Coyotes in the 1/4 and the Coyote owner is like "wtf...".
But getting back on topic... you need to get them to come down SUBSTANTIALLY on the price for that mileage and the car being stolen. They are likely counting on someone who doesn't run a carfax and might not negotiate at first in the hope that someone stupid will come along and buy it without doing the proper research. If that happens walk away and if its still there in a week go back in and make another offer.
128k miles is an awful lot too... IMO you'd be better served buying a really low mileage 2V for under $10k and modding it to your hearts content or keep yours. IMO the best kept secret in the modular world is the 2004 automatic Mach 1 and that is the car I would look for if it was me. 4V, built trans (4R75W), a better stall converter straight out of the factory, still has the SRA for drag racing, the Mach computer is the only 94-04 computer fast enough to shift a sub 10 second car and you still get a numbered car that has the "cool" factor. The 2004 GT autos also got the beefy transmission.
2000 Mustang GT Steeda build #48. Bolt ons, suspension, Novi 2000.
Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.