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Old 12-19-2013, 01:08 AM   #1
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Cams

Tossing around the idea of cams. Few things I need advice on. Are any cams fine with a blower for future? With stage 3 comp cams with new gears, retainers, and springs will 21lbs injectors be fine? Is bama tunes okay for cams?
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:55 AM   #2
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You will definitely have some Piston valve clearance issues with stage 3 comps. You will need a forged lower end to go with them.
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Old 12-19-2013, 01:59 AM   #3
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You will definitely have some Piston valve clearance issues with stage 3 comps. You will need a forged lower end to go with them.

And the forged lower end is going to have to feature deeper dish pistons.
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Old 12-19-2013, 02:40 AM   #4
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And the forged lower end is going to have to feature deeper dish pistons.

+1
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:34 AM   #5
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Bama doesn't tune for cams, you are going to need:

$600 cams, I recommend CMS stage 1 or stage 2 if you are going to do the springs too.
$150 degree service from CMS or MHS or whoever
$50 TFS crank sprocket
$600 dyno tune

That's your reality if you want to do cams, not trying to be a downer, just prepping you for whats coming money wise if you do it.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:12 AM   #6
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Tossing around the idea of cams. Few things I need advice on. Are any cams fine with a blower for future? With stage 3 comp cams with new gears, retainers, and springs will 21lbs injectors be fine? Is bama tunes okay for cams?
Cam's are definitely a really cool mod and it's not that common! It's an expensive mod and some will argue that the power you will gain may not be worth the total price. However, I disagree! I'm in the process of doing a Comp Cam Stage 3 cam set up in my 2011 GT and am super excited. The aggressive lopey idle is worth it alone to me, the 35+ RWHP and Torque are just a plus at this point!

If you're going to do a blower in the future, you're going to want to go with a blower cam. There is specific cams that are set up for blower cars! The lope isn't usually as crazy but something like a Comp Cam Stage 3 cam will be to much for a blower car.

Bama doesn't usually tune for Cams, however there is some cam set ups we can tune for. If it is a no spring required set up we can usually tune for it! Just give the Bama team a call and check with them to see if we can. Our Bama Performance tuning specialists are here in the building Monday-Friday from 9AM-5:30PM EST and Saturday 9AM-5:30PM EST. You can hit them up directly at 888.226.9764 and they'll get you squared away!

Hope this helps! Best of luck with your build. Definitely keep us posted, I'm excited to see what route you go with!

-Dan
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:26 AM   #7
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Cams on a 4V Coyote is going to be a lot different than a 2V. Boss intake, 4 cams, bolt ons and tune put a Coyote over 500whp.

IMHO 2V owners doing cams new should go wtih the Cushman Stage 2 NA cams. You need springs but if you are doing cams on a stock bottom end you might as well do it right.
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:48 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Bama doesn't tune for cams, you are going to need:

$600 cams, I recommend CMS stage 1 or stage 2 if you are going to do the springs too.
$150 degree service from CMS or MHS or whoever
$50 TFS crank sprocket
$600 dyno tune

That's your reality if you want to do cams, not trying to be a downer, just prepping you for whats coming money wise if you do it.

BAMA tunes for NSR cams
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:58 PM   #9
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Will stage 2 comp cams be okay for a blower? I mean not 600 horse just 450 max
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:15 PM   #10
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NA cams will not be ideal but will not hinder you from hitting 450 no. I'd get ahold of CMS and pick their brains.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:17 PM   #11
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Maybe I will just hold off on boost and build a motor from the stand instead of using my current motor.

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

What about nitrous. Will comp cams be alright?
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:21 PM   #12
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A nitrous grind will be optimal but you will be able to hit 450 with the stock PI cams if you want so I would not worry about the comp cams giving you issues. I'd still go with Cushman tho.

And yes, I HIGHLY recommend building your motor on the stand instead of having the car down for a planned 1 month that turns into 6 that turns into a year+. Been there done that... have the t-shirt. I'd go find a good Teksid or WAP block, get a $65 engine stand from Harbor freight and start from there.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:22 PM   #13
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Well I meant like building the one in my car but just pulling it. I would rather build from the block.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:27 PM   #14
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I still recommend getting a second block. Build the whole thing on a stand and then just yank your motor, swap accessories and drop right back in. If your car is running really well right now why mess that up? Like I said I learned this the hard way a few times.
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Old 12-19-2013, 08:31 PM   #15
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I still recommend getting a second block. Build the whole thing on a stand and then just yank your motor, swap accessories and drop right back in. If your car is running really well right now why mess that up? Like I said I learned this the hard way a few times.
Not really a high jack... But what's a teskid or wap block worth..
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:31 PM   #16
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People sometimes want an arm and a leg but I would not pay more than $300 for one and it would have to be close by. I drove 2 hours and paid $250 for a clean Teksid out of a 98 Cobra and the forged crank came with it. YMMV.

Funny to think that in pushrod land this sort of block is a $5k proposition...
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #17
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That's my plan I will be looking for motors on CL lol. What you think I should build from?
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:19 PM   #18
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I'd get a Teksid (and did) to build from. Mega strong, super light, Teksid is the same company Ferrari uses for their blocks and there are still plenty of them out there since they not only came in the 96-99 Cobras (and a few 01s) but they came in the Mark VIIIs too.

If I want I can put my arm through a cylinder and walk around with the block hanging from my hip. Its not super easy and I don't recommend it but have fun doing that with the iron block lol.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:55 AM   #19
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I'd get a Teksid (and did) to build from. Mega strong, super light, Teksid is the same company Ferrari uses for their blocks and there are still plenty of them out there since they not only came in the 96-99 Cobras (and a few 01s) but they came in the Mark VIIIs too.

If I want I can put my arm through a cylinder and walk around with the block hanging from my hip. Its not super easy and I don't recommend it but have fun doing that with the iron block lol.



Yep. I sourced a Teksid as well and forged the bottom end and went with 270 comp stage 2 cams. Also had a little head work done. This engine is mean. Good way to go!

The block itself will handle anything you throw at it honestly.
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Old 12-20-2013, 01:23 PM   #20
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I'd get a Teksid (and did) to build from. Mega strong, super light, Teksid is the same company Ferrari uses for their blocks and there are still plenty of them out there since they not only came in the 96-99 Cobras (and a few 01s) but they came in the Mark VIIIs too. If I want I can put my arm through a cylinder and walk around with the block hanging from my hip. Its not super easy and I don't recommend it but have fun doing that with the iron block lol.
What about a teksid vs a explorer aluminum block.
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:12 PM   #21
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What about a teksid vs a explorer aluminum block.

Isn't the explorer aluminum block also known as the WAP block? And much weaker than the teksid?
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Old 12-20-2013, 04:45 PM   #22
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Isn't the explorer aluminum block also known as the WAP block? And much weaker than the teksid?
This is what I was wondering...
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:48 PM   #23
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The WAP is generally considered to be the weakest of the modular blocks in terms of strength. With that said it is only 80lbs and I have yet to hear of someone breaking one from a shop or the interwebs. I've heard of the WAP and other blocks failing due to really bad tunes or something else letting go inside the motor but never the block's fault.

I would still get a Teksid for peace of mind but the WAP would be fine if you already have it or can get it for a song locally.
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