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Old 12-26-2013, 02:43 PM   #1
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help with oil change

hey i know theres probably a million threads already about this but my mustang is a 2013 v6 i now have 9700 miles on it i had the first oil change at 2500 and im a little on my next one i just want to know what kind of oil should i use synthetic or what and weight and what brands do you recommend and what filter i should use also if anyone has any tips.
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:57 PM   #2
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I have always used royal purple on all my stangs some people think that all oil is the same so idk I just stick with it.
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:00 PM   #3
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What weight do you think I should use and how much?
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Old 12-26-2013, 03:34 PM   #4
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Always stick too what it says it takes should say on the cap

---------- Post added at 04:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:34 PM ----------

Oil cap
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:45 PM   #5
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I suggest a full synthetic oil

5W-20 is what Ford says to use. Any good quality full synthetic oil will be fine. You can get Mobil 1 at Walmart as well as Castrol Edge. I just go to my dealer and get it changed and use the Ford Motorcraft brand. They also use a Motorcraft filter and check everything on my car including the nitrogen in my tires.

After you change over to full synthetic you can actually go 12,000 miles or more before doing it again. Your car can tell you when to change it. I like to do 10,000 when using full synthetic. I like the nice round number and it works fine for me.
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Old 12-26-2013, 05:40 PM   #6
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help with oil change

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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
5W-20 is what Ford says to use. Any good quality full synthetic oil will be fine. You can get Mobil 1 at Walmart as well as Castrol Edge. I just go to my dealer and get it changed and use the Ford Motorcraft brand. They also use a Motorcraft filter and check everything on my car including the nitrogen in my tires.



After you change over to full synthetic you can actually go 12,000 miles or more before doing it again. Your car can tell you when to change it. I like to do 10,000 when using full synthetic. I like the nice round number and it works fine for me.

Ronnie

Well said!!
I prefer to use mobil 1's fully synthetic. It's what I did when I changed my oil at 2500 and 12000
* I previously said royal purple, that's what I used in my diff :p
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:08 AM   #7
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The engine oil monitor equipped in your Mustang (read all about it in your owners manual) will tell you when the engine oil life has reached 100% and requires changing. This oil monitor uses parameters based on the oil that was used from the factory; Ford's semi synthetic. The V6 used now (3.7) has a 6 quart capacity, which Ford designed in to extend oil changing intervals. Ford's semi synthetic (as well as other good brand semi synthetics) can go 10K between changes. Using their quality FoMoCo oil filter (and others) can go 10K. The oil monitor takes input from your type of driving (stop/go or highway), heat, and top speed to adjust the oil change interval.

Using full synthetic over semi synthetic insures this 10K interval and higher. Some folks have chosen to ignore the oil monitor equipped in the Mustang and use the manufacturer's (of the oil) recommended oil changing interval. This can be higher than 10K.

My advice or opinion? Use the oil monitor equipped to determine the oil change, and no less than semi-synthetic (I use full synthetic).
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:18 AM   #8
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The engine oil monitor equipped in your Mustang (read all about it in your owners manual) will tell you when the engine oil life has reached 100% and requires changing. This oil monitor uses parameters based on the oil that was used from the factory; Ford's semi synthetic. The V6 used now (3.7) has a 6 quart capacity, which Ford designed in to extend oil changing intervals. Ford's semi synthetic (as well as other good brand semi synthetics) can go 10K between changes. Using their quality FoMoCo oil filter (and others) can go 10K. The oil monitor takes input from your type of driving (stop/go or highway), heat, and top speed to adjust the oil change interval.

Using full synthetic over semi synthetic insures this 10K interval and higher. Some folks have chosen to ignore the oil monitor equipped in the Mustang and use the manufacturer's (of the oil) recommended oil changing interval. This can be higher than 10K.

My advice or opinion? Use the oil monitor equipped to determine the oil change, and no less than semi-synthetic (I use full synthetic).

+1
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:09 AM   #9
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Wow, some great information bucko. Just answered all of my questions I was about to create a new thread on. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I just go to my dealer and get it changed and use the Ford Motorcraft brand. They also use a Motorcraft filter and check everything on my car including the nitrogen in my tires.
Do these visits cost anything?
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:27 AM   #10
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Of course they cost you for the oil and Filter

My dealer charges $39.95 for semi-synthetic Filter included
$59.95 for full synthetic Filter included
They check everything such as filters and tire pressure. I seen The guy look at each tire to see if any cracks in the tire tread.

Of course if something is needed it won't be free but at least you will know it needs attention.

My car came with nitrogen in the tires and the dealer checks them and fills if necessary at no charge.

I'm lucky to have a good dealer that I like and with the separate building that they do maintenance and away from the mechanical service is great. I ask for my guy and he is the one that I get. No appointment needed.

I know I can get Mobil 1 and a filter from Walmart for $30.00 or $40.00 and do it myself. I would if I still had my Corvette and go to the idiot crook Chevy dealers here in my area. ( Actually I did My own changes then) But with my Ford dealer I have not had any problems at all.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:06 AM   #11
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Just so everyone knows, dont pay so much for Mobil1 full synthetic....its no longer made the great way it used to...they have now started using a cheaper method to make the oil and its made with low grade base oils. So ur still paying full price for cheap oil. Go with a better name like Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple (this oil is meant for race cars depending which ine u get they have different classes for what the oil is intended for. If you get the wrong one ur actually doing more harm than good because certain ones is meant for high HP and to be changed after every big track session)

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Old 12-29-2013, 09:26 AM   #12
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I totally disagree with Charlie this time

Mobil 1 is still a top of the line synthetic oil. Amsoil, Redline, Royal purple are all totally excellent as well as Castrol Edge, Also add in Motorcraft from Ford. All are good but none is any better then the other. They all do what they are supposed to do and do it well. Mobil did come out with a semi synthetic that they still brand as mobil 1 but being a crap oil made with crap stock. I don't think so.
Like I already said: The filter you use is more important then the oil you use. Put in good oil (Any Brand) and a crap filter because it was cheap and you will have problems.
Any Oil with this symbil on the can or bottle is going to be fine.


Mobil 1 does have this symble on the bottle.

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Old 12-29-2013, 10:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
Mobil 1 is still a top of the line synthetic oil. Amsoil, Redline, Royal purple are all totally excellent as well as Castrol Edge, Also add in Motorcraft from Ford. All are good but none is any better then the other. They all do what they are supposed to do and do it well. Mobil did come out with a semi synthetic that they still brand as mobil 1 but being a crap oil made with crap stock. I don't think so.
Like I already said: The filter you use is more important then the oil you use. Put in good oil (Any Brand) and a crap filter because it was cheap and you will have problems.
Any Oil with this symbil on the can or bottle is going to be fine.


Mobil 1 does have this symble on the bottle.

Ronnie
Ron have u seen the new oil base they now use? No where near the stuff the used to use. Look into the big controversy about mobil1 charging the same for much less quality base oil.

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Old 12-29-2013, 10:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
Mobil 1 is still a top of the line synthetic oil. Amsoil, Redline, Royal purple are all totally excellent as well as Castrol Edge, Also add in Motorcraft from Ford. All are good but none is any better then the other. They all do what they are supposed to do and do it well.
Ronnie
I 100% disagree with your statement that ALL are good but none are better than the other, but I won't get in that debate again

I also would NEVER run my car to 10k miles no matter which oil is in it
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Old 12-29-2013, 12:48 PM   #15
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I 100% disagree with your statement that ALL are good but none are better than the other, but I won't get in that debate again

I also would NEVER run my car to 10k miles no matter which oil is in it
Im running Amsoil 0W30 and im running it for 12k miles even tho its good for 15

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Old 12-29-2013, 01:11 PM   #16
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I've been doing my Royal purple with a Ford Racing oil filter regimen every 5k mikes. But my car is no garage queen. Not only is it my DD but it is also my tire slayer at the local drift events.
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie_santos View Post
Just so everyone knows, dont pay so much for Mobil1 full synthetic....its no longer made the great way it used to...they have now started using a cheaper method to make the oil and its made with low grade base oils. So ur still paying full price for cheap oil. Go with a better name like Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple (this oil is meant for race cars depending which ine u get they have different classes for what the oil is intended for. If you get the wrong one ur actually doing more harm than good because certain ones is meant for high HP and to be changed after every big track session)

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This is from FAQ in Amsoil and I think our cars can take racing oil in street.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-29-2013, 03:38 PM   #18
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Like it say's

NOT compatible with cats. The stuff added to the oil will ruin your converters. They make excellent oil for your street cars.
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:42 PM   #19
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help with oil change

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NOT compatible with cats. The stuff added to the oil will ruin your converters. They make excellent oil for your street cars.

Ronnie

Recommended for muscle cars and high performance vehicle like Mustang, though, but not for regular street cars.

This is only based on amsoil claim. Other race engine oil may have different application specifics.
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:59 PM   #20
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Sorry to hijack this thread, but for some reason every thread I try to post goes missing. When should you do your first oil change? I have a 2014 v6 that is my DD that just hit 3k.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:09 PM   #21
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This is from FAQ in Amsoil and I think our cars can take racing oil in street.Attachment 143112
Which is why u dont run that series lmfao

You run the one for gasoline vehicles. Either way if I wanted ti run that one I could my 5.0 has no cats :p

I run this
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...-EA&zo=1859448

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---------- Post added at 04:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:08 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToP View Post
Sorry to hijack this thread, but for some reason every thread I try to post goes missing. When should you do your first oil change? I have a 2014 v6 that is my DD that just hit 3k.
Now sir.

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Old 12-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #22
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Now sir.
Really? So I guess I will make it my goal to change the oil before classes start back up. Any tips for someone who has never done an oil change before? I know is sounds lame, but at 22 I really haven't had much experience with working on cars.
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:32 PM   #23
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Hey Charlie- What you are using is good.

That is their street oil. The thing people don't understand with true racing oil is that they only use it once. It is drained and replaced after every race mostly due to the additives when cooled off will cause wear and tear on your engine. Things such as Zinc and Phosphorus is great as long as it is at operating temperature, But sure solids up when the race is over and the engine cools down. The true racing lubes also have a few more things to limit foaming etc. It will destroy a cat.
Oils made for street use are made to lube when stone cold and still be good when up to operating temperature. Won't ruin the cats and the synthetics can go up to 15,000 miles but 10,000 is what most car manufactures suggest. I like to go 7,500 between changes myself.
If you don't see that symbol on your container you should not use the oil on your street car.
Even if you removed the cats it is not good to use any true racing oil on a street car unless you are going to change it after you drive it every time.
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:18 PM   #24
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Here is some excerpt from amsoil staff related to Dominator series:

I have spoken with Alan Amatuzio, Executive Vice President of AMSOIL Inc., about this very topic.

Like most of AMSOIL's products, Dominator Racing Oils have a primary application and secondary applications. In the primary application, they are the best lubricant to use. In secondary applications, there are AMSOIL products that are better suited for that particular type of service, but the lubricant still does a stellar job when compared with competitors.

For example, AMO 10W-40 can be used as a motorcycle oil. The primary lubricant recommended would be MCF 10W-40 - this will perform the best in the given conditions. However, AMO 10W-40 is a good oil to use for someone that just wants better protection than a conventional oil, but isn't particularly concerned with performance.

Dominator Racing Oils can safely be used in a daily driver, and that's straight from the horse's mouth. The TBN is 8, which is consistent with the likes of Valvoline Synpower, Castrol GTX, Kendall GT-1, Shell Formula, et al. The oils are not meant for extended drains; however, with used oil analysis some people have reported safely extending changes to 10,000 miles or more.

The only thing to be careful of here is that the Dominator series, because of its high Zn content, does not qualify as an API SM oil, but rather API SL. All this means is that if somebody is concerned with their warranty, they are better off using ASM 0W-20 or XLM 5W-20. (As an aside, I've never heard of anybody having warranty issues using an SL oil. The whole reason SM became a new classification was based on the idea that a high-Zn SL oil would render emissions control devices inoperable; however, I have seen some compelling evidence that they do not cause any more damage to catalytic converters than SM oil.)
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:06 PM   #25
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Where???????????????????

Quote:
I have seen some compelling evidence that they do not cause any more damage to catalytic converters than SM oil.)
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:36 PM   #26
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See "Quoted" lines:

(As an aside, "I've never heard of anybody having warranty issues" using an SL oil. The whole reason SM became a new classification was based on the idea that a high-Zn SL oil would render emissions control devices inoperable; however, I have seen some "compelling evidence that they do "not" cause any more damage" to catalytic converters "than" SM oil.)
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:57 PM   #27
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Ok , here's my oil recipe, 3qts 5/20 synthetic and 2qts 5w40 diesel synthetic for the added zzdp
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:58 PM   #28
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Ok , here's my oil recipe, 3qts 5/20 synthetic and 2qts 5w40 diesel synthetic for the added zzdp
:scratches head:
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:20 PM   #29
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Ok , here's my oil recipe, 3qts 5/20 synthetic and 2qts 5w40 diesel synthetic for the added zzdp
wth?
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:22 PM   #30
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I'm sure many different answers on that 1 id do it ASAP


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Old 12-29-2013, 10:27 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ToP View Post
Really? So I guess I will make it my goal to change the oil before classes start back up. Any tips for someone who has never done an oil change before? I know is sounds lame, but at 22 I really haven't had much experience with working on cars.


Don't over tighten or under tighten the oil plug make sure u use correct amount and weight of oil if in doubt you might ask someone to show you I'd hate you to mess up ur new car due to a simple mistake that could be avoided I don't change my own often but change oil very regularly in lawn equipment though there is a difference the concept is similar


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Old 12-30-2013, 08:25 AM   #32
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Ok , here's my oil recipe, 3qts 5/20 synthetic and 2qts 5w40 diesel synthetic for the added zzdp
With my luck I would get this idiots Mustang if it sat on a used car lot.

Ronnie
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Old 12-30-2013, 08:49 PM   #33
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With my luck I would get this idiots Mustang if it sat on a used car lot.

Ronnie
Bahaha
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