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Old 01-06-2014, 11:41 AM   #1
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Oil

Has anyone used this kind of royal purple? I use the regular one does this one protect better?
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:42 PM   #2
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Well how often do you change your oil and how high do you spin your motor? What kind of filter do you use? Because for 99.99999% of drivers out there using RP/Amsoil or even M1 is a waste of money. Especially when you can get Motorcraft for like $2.50 a quart at the big box stores. What is RP like $8.99+?

However if you are dead set on using RP, just get the regular RP and you'll be fine. Personally I've been running Motorcraft blend in anything/everything for decades and never ever once had an oil issue. Change every 5k or so.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:56 PM   #3
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If you have a 2011 or above, the current oil monitor in your dash is based on the FoMoCo semi-synthetic blend standards, which can carry you up to 10K, based on your driving habits. This is Fords guidelines, so using it is not going to harm your engine or void a warranty because of it.

Those that chose to use extended full synthetic oil, and change it less than that manufacturers recomendation are indeed tossing money out the window.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:57 PM   #4
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I use RP because I love driving my car to the max lol
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:06 PM   #5
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Oil

I run RP cause it's puuuurty.

(I have been running 5w-20 rp since 13k miles. Now at 24k with 3-5 k intervals)
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchredfrankie View Post
I use RP because I love driving my car to the max lol
Unless you are revving past 7k regularly you don't need RP and even then I would use Amsoil, not RP.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:18 PM   #7
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Just a heads up but Royal Purple has changed their formula and it is no longer a full synthetic. Just like Mobil 1.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:04 PM   #8
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Where the heck are you getting half the information ?????

Mobil 1 is still FULL SYNTHETIC
Royal Purple is still FULL SYNTHETIC

These company's as well as other companies still make Full synthetic as well as now most of them offer a SEMI SYNTHETIC as well.

Go to any parts store or even Walmart and read the information on the bottle before plunking down your money. If it don't say "SYNTHETIC" on it and say's "SEMI SYNTHETIC" just don't buy it.

Do your research before spouting stupid stuff like this:
Quote:
Just a heads up but Royal Purple has changed their formula and it is no longer a full synthetic. Just like Mobil 1.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
Mobil 1 is still FULL SYNTHETIC
Royal Purple is still FULL SYNTHETIC

These company's as well as other companies still make Full synthetic as well as now most of them offer a SEMI SYNTHETIC as well.

Go to any parts store or even Walmart and read the information on the bottle before plunking down your money. If it don't say "SYNTHETIC" on it and say's "SEMI SYNTHETIC" just don't buy it.

Do your research before spouting stupid stuff like this:

Ronnie
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
Mobil 1 is still FULL SYNTHETIC
Royal Purple is still FULL SYNTHETIC

These company's as well as other companies still make Full synthetic as well as now most of them offer a SEMI SYNTHETIC as well.

Go to any parts store or even Walmart and read the information on the bottle before plunking down your money. If it don't say "SYNTHETIC" on it and say's "SEMI SYNTHETIC" just don't buy it.

Do your research before spouting stupid stuff like this:


Ronnie
Dude, they have changed their formulas and are in the middle of being sued to have the label changed. This has been proven through having the oil analyzed. Don't believe everything you read. Do you know the difference between a base III and a base IV?
AMSOIL Performance Testing Archives
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2548209
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1265711
http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w2...synthetic.html
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:36 AM   #11
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Interesting thread. Made me do some research. Found this on another forum:

Mobile1 is no longer a true synthetic

Mobil sued Castrol for calling their oil a full synthetic. Which according to Mobil it wasnt a full synthetic like M1 since its not made from a Group IV base stock.

They lost the case, so they decided to start using the cheaper base stock just like Castrol,pennzoil etc. Why make a real synthetic that costs you more money to make then the competition who is charging the same price for their fake synthetic?

German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Amsoil, redline are some of the few remaining TRUE synthetics( Group IV). The other Castrol syntecs, penzzoil platinum and now Mobile 1 are not TRUE synthetics. They are hydrolocked Group III oils.


And a rebutal:

Here is the true story about the lawsuit:

Mobil 1 uses a 100% completely synthetic PAO (Poly Alpha Olephin) Group-V base stock. Mobil invented this technology back in the fifties, and they have always used the 'true' synthetic formula.
Castrol 'Syntec', as originally sold in America back in the late eighties/early nineties, was NOT a true synthetic, even though it was advertised as such.
The Castrol product used a group-III/IV base stock which is derived from natural petroleum/crude oil sources.
The lawsuit brought by Mobil against Castrol resulted in the decision that Castrol was indeed allowed to call thier product 'full synthetic' based on the fact that Castrol claimed it's base stocks recieved further refining processes, at the molecular level, than did 'normal' conventional base stocks.
This very, very refined base stock very closely approched the performance of a full PAO synthetic, so the courts decided that "If it does the same thing, whats the difference"?, and allowed Castrol to call it synthetic.
The European government does not allow Castrol to sell this product as synthetic there...it carries a different name.
In ExxonMobil in-house tests, the Castrol product is very close to the Mobil 1 product in all areas except:
1)Phosphorous and Sulfer content, which are the main contributors to sludge formation. It comes from the crude oil, and is extremely difficult to remove completely. Mobil 1 has ZERO of these components, making it almost 100% resistant to sludge formation.
2)Mineral-oil is very susceptibale to high-temperature oxidation, creating...sludge and varnish. It also reatins heat and reduces lubricity. Mobil's PAO technology is almost 100% resistant to high-temperature oxidation. Once again, no sludge formation...with better gas mileage to boot!
3) Mobil 1 uses less additives overall (by percentage), meaning more actual oil 'in the mix', creating a cooler running engine, and producing better gas mileage.

Castrol does not, and never has operated a refinery, a blending or a packaging facility.They are simply a bottler of product.
They buy their base stocks from an outside vendor or vendors, two of which are or have been 'Louisiana Specialty Lubricants" and 'Coastal/Unilube'. There are, of course others.
They order their custom-blended additive package from a seperate additive manufacturer. In the past they used Texaco, but the Texaco Additive and research facility in the Catskills has since been closed. In fact, today, 'Texaco' is nothing more than a brand name. I don't know where Castrol gets their additives today, but I suspect it is from Chevron or one of its many subsidiaries.
This is then all put together in bottles with a label by a packager, and drop-shipped to their warehouse facility.

Amsoil has quite an interesting story behind it: In the fifties, military-man Al Amatuzio was quite impressed with the performance of the synthetic grease used in landing gear of carrier-bound aircraft.
Mobil corp was commissioned by the US to come up with a grease that would not freeze at the extreme temperatures encountered by aircraft landing gear, and Mobil came up with synthetic grease. Made it only for the military, as they felt no consumer would be willing to pay the exorbitant price for synthetic lubricants for their cars and trucks.
After leaving the military, Amatuzio contracted Mobil to manufacture synthetic motor oil base stocks for his new company, 'Amzoil'(original spelling).
Having his own additive package installed, he marketed this as the 'World's first synthetic motor oil' in 1971(maybe 1972).
The following year, Mobil introduced thier Mobil 1 product, made with their own additive package.
The difference is that Mobil had (and still has) the ability to make thier additive packages in any fashion they please.
Amatuzio was limited to buying his 'off the shelf' additives from one of the industrial additive marketers. Not a bad thing, just not 'exclusive'.
Amatuzio, quite the entrepreneur, still runs the company. He is also the same guy who started AAMCO transmissions, MAACO paint and body, and several other lesser-known companies. Quite a brilliant business man, actually.
Flash-forward to today: Amsoil (current spelling) no longer buys their base stocks from Mobil, but that doesn't mean they get them from the same place as Castrol.


Interestingly, Amsoil, who used to buy their base stocks exclusively from Mobil, now buys their base stocks from the lowest bidder, and are consequently now using G-III/IV base stocks in their 'synthetic' oil. Group-III/IV base stocks, are a step below group V PAO base stocks used by Mobil 1. They claim they perform the same. I disagree, and so do most other non-partial lubricant engineers.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:28 AM   #12
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I've said it before and I'll say it again. Buying miracle purple/pink/whatever holy **** $12/quart oil is a complete and total waste of money. Use a good oil, use a quality filter and keep an eye on your levels and you are good.

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Old 01-07-2014, 07:30 AM   #13
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I truly stand corrected

I guess I can learn something new every day.
Ronnie
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:06 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I've said it before and I'll say it again. Buying miracle purple/pink/whatever holy **** $12/quart oil is a complete and total waste of money. Use a good oil, use a quality filter and keep an eye on your levels and you are good.

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I pay $7.35 a quart for Amsoil. Expensive yes but I only change my oil once a year.

One more thing regarding Mobil 1. If you buy the Extended performance version that is still a true synthetic although not as good as a top tier oil. The regular Mobil 1 is a group III now.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:21 PM   #15
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Hmmm you buy locally or have the special membership? That is a pretty damn good price for Amsoil. Even still I'd rather change 2-3 times a year with Motorcraft. Something doesn't sit right with me about leaving the same oil in the engine even though I know the oil samples back up being able to do it no problem.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:43 PM   #16
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I'm a preferred customer and that costs me $20 a year. But I use Amsoil in both my cars as well as my lawnmower and snow blower so it's worth it to me. I only put 1,500 or so miles on my car a year with it garaged October-April hence the once a year oil change.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:46 PM   #17
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So, are we now saying Royal Purple is not a true base IV synthetic oil?

---------- Post added at 09:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchredfrankie View Post
Has anyone used this kind of royal purple? I use the regular one does this one protect better?
I never seen or heard of this oil . High performance Street. ?????. If someone is gonna use a Base III fully synthetic oil , just go use Super Tech full synthetic oil and call it a day.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:07 PM   #18
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What the Court said

Quote:
so the courts decided that "If it does the same thing, whats the difference"?,
Good enough for me. I don't think you can go wrong if you use any of the Synthetics. The big thing is to use a good quality filter and change the oil at least every 7,500 to 10,000 miles.

Now if you use 70 weight Kendall like Don Gartlets used in his dragsters, Your engine could never possibly wear out.
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Old 01-07-2014, 09:59 PM   #19
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Good enough for me. I don't think you can go wrong if you use any of the Synthetics. The big thing is to use a good quality filter and change the oil at least every 7,500 to 10,000 miles.

Now if you use 70 weight Kendall like Don Gartlets used in his dragsters, Your engine could never possibly wear out.
Ronnie
Im with you Ronnie. I'm not sure it matters for non drag racers which Synthetic oil is used. The key is a good filter and oil change intervals every 7500 to 10k miles. I been using napa gold filters along with Super Tech Fully Synthetic base III 5W 30 oil. It gets changed every 7500 miles.

My mother has a 2004 Toyota Hylander with 230,000 miles. Gets oil change every 5,000 miles , uses a napa gold filter along with regular petroleum oil 5w 20 and car runs perfect. Not even synthetic oil and engine is perfect. Its about routine maintance.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:07 AM   #20
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Are you guys really going 7-10,000 miles in between oil changes? I always grew up with changing it every 3,000
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:52 AM   #21
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Are you guys really going 7-10,000 miles in between oil changes? I always grew up with changing it every 3,000
That old school thinking needs to change. You are just wasting money changing it that early. The 2011+ GT's hold 8 quarts in the oil pan and the owners manual calls for 10,000 mile oil change or when the oil life monitor tells you to change it.
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:28 AM   #22
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Are you guys really going 7-10,000 miles in between oil changes? I always grew up with changing it every 3,000
3,000 mile oil changes in the year 2014????? Lmao, bro that went out back in the late 90's. Oh my god, heck no on cars of the 21st century. Cars back from the 50's to 90's sure but not on modern day automobiles.
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:23 AM   #23
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160,000 miles on my 88 Suzuki Samuari

I have a Suzuki Samurai that gets Castrol 20W-50 ( Just regular oil) and a Purolator filter ever 3,000 miles. It does have a leak at the rear main seal that will lose about 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles and it is rusting to death. But, It still runs great and does not smoke at all. I have had three or four fuel pumps due to Ethanol ruining them but this last one is Made in USA and no problem yet. It is a good little car to haul my dogs to the dog park, Go to Walmart and just around town. It gets lousy MPG, about 18 to 21 miles per gallon but it does save wear and tear on my Mustang.
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:29 AM   #24
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I have a Suzuki Samurai that gets Castrol 20W-50 ( Just regular oil) and a Purolator filter ever 3,000 miles. It does have a leak at the rear main seal that will lose about 1/2 quart every 1,000 miles and it is rusting to death. But, It still runs great and does not smoke at all. I have had three or four fuel pumps due to Ethanol ruining them but this last one is Made in USA and no problem yet. It is a good little car to haul my dogs to the dog park, Go to Walmart and just around town. It gets lousy MPG, about 18 to 21 miles per gallon but it does save wear and tear on my Mustang.
Ronnie
Lol, the Geo Metro of SUVs, those things are cool. Also one thing ppl are failing to mention is that ALL oil sold in the USA has to meet minimum standards to be legal. This means that even $8/gal Autozone oil will be fine to run. I use that oil as break in oil when I do a motor.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:35 AM   #25
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I do mine every 3,000 due to the fact I'm always beating her lol
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:44 AM   #26
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The only oil I buy that's full synthetic is not oil it's mobile 1 max ATF. At $10 a quart times 9 quatrts I have to put $90 worth of tranny fluid in every year. Plus my tranny cooler.
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:07 PM   #27
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Oil

The only oil I get full synthetic is my headlight fluid. High beam REQUIRE synthetic.
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:09 PM   #28
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The only oil I get full synthetic is my headlight fluid. High beam REQUIRE synthetic.
No man you gotta use synthetic in your exhaust bearings or they will squeak if you use conventional
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:20 PM   #29
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Blinker capacitors will burn out if you don't use the correct weight DOT approved fluid.
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:27 PM   #30
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Are you guys really going 7-10,000 miles in between oil changes? I always grew up with changing it every 3,000
This interval is based on non synthetic oils, refered to as "dyno" (dynosaur) oils.

Semi and full synthetics are rated at 10K and higher between intervals, depending on your driving requirements (towing, dusty conditions, stop/go city). The oil life monitor used in our Mustangs is calibrated on semi-synthetic oils, which came in your Mustang from the factory (excluding the Boss and Shelby). Ford added an extra quart to the 3.7 V6's oil pan in 2011 to allow for extended oil changes (10K intervals for "normal" driving). Best you can do is to check the information center readout for the percentage of oil life left. See your owners manual on this.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:24 PM   #31
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That old school thinking needs to change. You are just wasting money changing it that early. The 2011+ GT's hold 8 quarts in the oil pan and the owners manual calls for 10,000 mile oil change or when the oil life monitor tells you to change it.
I understand that it is for newer vehicles not older ones like mine. It just seems crazy lol
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:17 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue

3,000 mile oil changes in the year 2014????? Lmao, bro that went out back in the late 90's. Oh my god, heck no on cars of the 21st century. Cars back from the 50's to 90's sure but not on modern day automobiles.
I still change mine every 1500...
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:58 PM   #33
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I still change mine every 1500...
Well I'm gonna change mine every 1000 miles. Lmao
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:03 PM   #34
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I still change mine every 1500...
That's insane
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Old 01-08-2014, 04:04 PM   #35
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I still change mine every 1500...
Hey bro. Since your throwing away perfect oil can you mail it out to me after you drain it out.
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