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Old 01-26-2014, 06:10 AM   #1
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What am i forgetting

4.10 GEARS
FRONT STRUTS
REAR SHOCKS
LOWERING SPRINGS
CASTER CAMBER PLATES
FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
REAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS
ALLUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
FORGED AXLES
BUMPSTEER KIT + BALL JOINTS
FRONT + BACK ROTORS AND BREAK PADS

That there is my current shopping list. I will be ordering the above this pay day. Does anyone have any input on this, any ideas on any other parts I should buy? Building the car from ground up leaving the engine work for last .. kinda
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:00 AM   #2
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-Subframe connectors
-torque box reinforcments
And I would look into spherical bushings for the UCA's. They can help with deflection and binding of the bushings.

Also I would leave the aluminum drive shaft for very last. Its not truly necessary, and is really only good if your striping the car out and trying to make it as light as possible.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:25 AM   #3
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It's amazing, the brain of CliffyK. He may not post much here anymore since he sold his GT last year but his knowledge is spread far and wide...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CliffyK, courtesy mustangforums-dot-com
The stock 28-spline axles are "forged", that's the way anything expected to do that sort of job would be made. Also I would disagree that they suck as they can actually handle quite a bit more torque than the stock engine puts out.

Here are the torque ratings for the Ford 28 and 31-spline axles (from tests performed for Fourwheeler magazine):

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

Ford 8.8 28-spline COT: 1250 lb-ft MOT: 4600 lb-ft
Ford 8.8 31-spline COT: 1360 lb-ft MOT: 5100 lb-ft

You can see that the 31-spline axle has just an 8.8% higher continuous rating, and a 10.8% higher maximum rating--so it really isn't THAT much stronger.

The aftermarket axle makers claim the splines on their 28-spline axles are stronger then on the stock axles, one maker claims 35% stronger.

That said it is foolish to ever believe anything anyone trying to sell you something says.

Getting back to the stock 28-spline axles, if we assume 4.10:1 gears then 4600 lb-ft out would be 4600/4.10 = 1122 lb-ft in to the rear end. Now if we assume 2nd gear (2.0:1) with perfect traction that's 1122/2.0 = 561 lb-ft into the tranny. If we further stipulate that the engine's peak torque happens around 5252 rpm then that would be 561 fwHP, or 476 rwHP with a 15% powertrain loss.

Now that would be pushing the axles right up to their limit, so if we include a 0.8 design buffer that becomes 476 * 0.8 = 382 rwHP--or just about what most people here would consider to be the limit for the stock 28-spline axles.
Just as a side note, if you do decide to go with 31-spline axles and/or driveshaft, you will need to replace the differential while you're in there replacing gears too. Regardless, do the u-joints as well for some cheap insurance.
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Old 01-26-2014, 02:11 PM   #4
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hmm okay makes sense . Ill look more into it
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftDinner View Post
4.10 GEARS
FRONT STRUTS
REAR SHOCKS
LOWERING SPRINGS
CASTER CAMBER PLATES
FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
REAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS
ALLUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
FORGED AXLES
BUMPSTEER KIT + BALL JOINTS
FRONT + BACK ROTORS AND BREAK PADS

That there is my current shopping list. I will be ordering the above this pay day. Does anyone have any input on this, any ideas on any other parts I should buy? Building the car from ground up leaving the engine work for last .. kinda
Adjustable Pan Hard Bar with Bracket.
Cigarette Lighter.
Kitchen Sink.
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Old 01-26-2014, 04:44 PM   #6
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K-Member
Tubular front control arms
+1 Sub-frame Connectors
Strut tower brace
Big Brake kit
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:28 PM   #7
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im going to just get mew rotors and pads for the front and back until once I get a blower since I wont need them until then and there not cheap.
Do you think the K member is worth changing? I was told not to bother?
I will wait on a strut tower brace as well as the engine will probably be coming out
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:29 PM   #8
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Stated above is great info and not sure what kit your getting with the 4.10s but look into a traction lock rebuilt kit with all of the shims, fluids etc. If 4.10s is ur def choice go with FRPP. With ford gears the pinion depth does not need adjustment when swapping the stock out. All other manufacturers need this done and takes an extra hour of labor. So I was told by the tuner and mechanics that installed mine.
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #9
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If you're going to do a lot of road course driving yes a k-member is worth it. As for drag, not really. It helps stiffen the ride up front a lot, so if you're just looking to be able to launch really well no, but if you have a favorite corner you love to take at mach 5 yes worth it.

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Old 01-27-2014, 03:00 PM   #10
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Well it would be more just straight at the strip and some fun driving in the mountains... It seems like a big job haha maybe that's why I am shying away from it but if the stock set up isn't that great then sure why not I check AM a k member isn't much just a couple hundred dollars so why not... but sometimes stock parts are better than aftermarket... is this the case?
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftDinner View Post
4.10 GEARS
FRONT STRUTS
REAR SHOCKS
LOWERING SPRINGS
CASTER CAMBER PLATES
FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
REAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS
ALLUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
FORGED AXLES
BUMPSTEER KIT + BALL JOINTS
FRONT + BACK ROTORS AND BREAK PADS

That there is my current shopping list. I will be ordering the above this pay day. Does anyone have any input on this, any ideas on any other parts I should buy? Building the car from ground up leaving the engine work for last .. kinda
Maybe a panhard bar and strut tower brace
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:17 PM   #12
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A Steeda Strut tower brace and 4 Point K-member brace from Maximum Motorsport is what I use!.. And both are cheaper and much easier to install than a new K member is!.. And between the two, my front end is plenty stiff right now!.. I drag race and do AutoX!..
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:20 PM   #13
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so would the k member brace be a better option then upgrading the k member its self?
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:23 PM   #14
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A k-member will make it stiffer up without doubt, it also has a lot of other benefits. You can adjust control arm height, engine position, weight savings. With all that you also have better geometry setup if lowering too. Its not an end all be all upgrade, but one I think is important for anyone looking at serious performance.

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Old 01-27-2014, 03:36 PM   #15
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sold. Ill buy the k member the k member brace and the strut tower brace annnd a pan hard bar
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:42 PM   #16
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The stock K-member is plenty strong enough!.. Unless your looking to build a more hardcore track car!.. You can bolt on both the K-member brace and strut tower brace in just a couple hours!.. Replacing a new K-member is more involved!..
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:44 PM   #17
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Yeah that's why I wasn't even considering it but to me a new part is a good part . Basically going to replace everything on this old girl
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:16 PM   #18
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Etuner is correct. if you're not looking for serious performance the k-brace and tower-brace are sufficient for most people and even quite a few road course drivers. Most people only do a strut brace. you can modify the original k-member with some fabrication to do everything a tubular can, but it would require some skills and time. I'm going to do a k-swap because I've dropped a significant amount and I will be taking twists at extreme speeds when I'm all done. Like I said for serious performance I would do it, but for a DD i wouldn't unless you're just looking for the experience and the abilities it gives you should you ever need them.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftDinner View Post
4.10 GEARS
FRONT STRUTS
REAR SHOCKS
LOWERING SPRINGS
CASTER CAMBER PLATES
FRONT AND REAR SWAY BARS
REAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS
ALLUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT
FORGED AXLES
BUMPSTEER KIT + BALL JOINTS
FRONT + BACK ROTORS AND BREAK PADS

That there is my current shopping list. I will be ordering the above this pay day. Does anyone have any input on this, any ideas on any other parts I should buy? Building the car from ground up leaving the engine work for last .. kinda

How much does it cost?
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue View Post
Maybe a panhard bar and strut tower brace






Quote:
Originally Posted by KraftDinner View Post
sold. Ill buy the k member the k member brace and the strut tower brace annnd a pan hard bar
A panhard bar is not necessary on these cars until you decide to convert to a three link setup. S197s are where you need them when lowering the vehicle
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