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Old 03-18-2014, 02:19 PM   #71
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'which sounds best?' jk, I hate that one too
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:32 PM   #72
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Lol lets just hijack every gear thread from here on out and change the topic lol
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Old 03-19-2014, 06:58 AM   #73
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or insert some hypothetical equation
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:22 PM   #74
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or insert some hypothetical equation
Yea definitely. Unfortunately we need more. There should be an equation that can calculate "gearing" but also horsepower and torque. Fir example, lets see you want to know your REAL top speed... with 3.27 it's over 200mph or right there. But you can't achieve that with no less the 650, 700 hp maybe lol. Just because there is "gearing" for something doesn't mean it can actually USE it's full potential. Which leads me to certain calculators don't translate into real world situations in particular cases. So the extra second half of that equation would be really awesome
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:43 PM   #75
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or insert some hypothetical equation
A locomotive is traveling east at 159mph, an electric Telsa car with 4.10 gears is accelerating at peek power wattage west. They are 1 mile apart, how soon before they hit each other?
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:45 PM   #76
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A locomotive is traveling east at 159mph, an electric Telsa car with 4.10 gears is accelerating at peek power wattage west. They are 1 mile apart, how soon before they hit each other?
This is what I'm looking for lol!!

---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 PM ----------

I believe we have sticky that may solve this..
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Old 08-17-2014, 01:22 PM   #77
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Good info here.
I haven't run my 13 GT in the 1/4 but was curious about this because I do take it out for open track days at Willow Springs Raceway.
I put in 3.73's early on and wondered if it was a mistake as on the front straight at Big Willow it hits the rev limiter at the low 120's ( a bit better than the charted 117, but I'm runnning 35/275/19's ). I didn't get much into 5th before corner 1 comes up fast. The stock brakes start to fade pretty quickly when worked hard so I'd hold back some. Just put on some big Baer brakes so I'm eager to see how much faster I can push it next time out.
My buddy with a '12 Boss is seeing closer to 130 in 4th (stock 3.73, 18" wheels) on the straight, but his engine winds to 7500. According to the chart, I might gain a few mph on the straight with 3.31's, but I think the power band around the rest of the track would suffer so I'll stick with the 3.73's.
If you don't track your car - 1/4 or road race, I'd recommend staying with the 3.31 gear set. It's much more friendly as a daily driver.


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Old 09-07-2014, 06:15 PM   #78
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Thanks great post.


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Old 09-27-2014, 09:07 PM   #79
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Any chance at seeing the numbers on 3.7 MT-82 with 3.55's? Also - could you post rpms at a specific speed - 60 or 70 mph would be good??
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:28 PM   #80
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I have a 2005 GT and I'm having issues with 2nd gear. When I'm driving and go from 1st to 2nd it grinds the gear.. I have to baby it to get it to go into gear and its a 50/50 chance that it will. I don't have any problems with the other gears besides 2nd?? Any ideas on what it might be I need help


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Old 09-29-2014, 11:11 PM   #81
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I have a 2005 GT and I'm having issues with 2nd gear. When I'm driving and go from 1st to 2nd it grinds the gear.. I have to baby it to get it to go into gear and its a 50/50 chance that it will. I don't have any problems with the other gears besides 2nd?? Any ideas on what it might be I need help


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This isn't the thread to be asking that question. That being said your synchro is probably toast.
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:14 PM   #82
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Oh alright well I appreciate it how do you fix that? If I bought new gears would it fix the problem?


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Old 09-29-2014, 11:27 PM   #83
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What he's saying is this thread is about the differential gears ( that live in the large pumpkin between your rear tires) . Replacing those gears will in no way fix your problem. You need to fix the transmission - where the synchros live. If your mileage is low, there's a good chance the dealer might fix it under warranty.
If you want specific input from others that had your problem, start your own thread with a title like 'shifting problem'.


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Old 09-29-2014, 11:28 PM   #84
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Oh okay thanks


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Old 11-16-2014, 10:34 AM   #85
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Seems like a pretty accurate post nice write up

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Old 11-30-2014, 03:10 AM   #86
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I have a 99 v6 that i bought a few months ago and i have this whining sounds coming from the rear end once i hit about 30 mph. A mechanic said i need to replace the gears but another mechanic said i just need to replace the bearing. Who is right? Or should i do both? And if i do replace the gears, would it hurt to put 4.10 in?


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Old 11-30-2014, 02:24 PM   #87
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If you are going to do one I'd do both. Auto or stick? Are you looking for faster off the line? Are you running stock size wheels? Not sure what gears were stock in your car - the V6 people can prob tell you if it has a lighter carrier - may be easier to swap in a V8 rear now if you intend to bump up performance more...


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Old 11-30-2014, 02:31 PM   #88
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Its stick. And the wheels arnt stock. But the acceleration on my car is crap so i want to bump that up a bit. I was hoping some 4.10 gears would do that.


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Old 11-30-2014, 05:58 PM   #89
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It will help though your mpg will probably drop if you do a lot of freeway driving. If your new wheels are taller than the stock, you will gain back your low end power.


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Old 12-02-2014, 08:04 AM   #90
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I had a 2013 V6 stock 2.73; they have 8.8 rears. I put in 3.55 and it would jump off the line yet still get great mileage. Didn't need to put a tune in it either, the ford dealer who put them in moved the revs per mile up on the factory 3.31 option to match my speedo to GPS readout.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:21 AM   #91
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I had a 2013 V6 stock 2.73; they have 8.8 rears. I put in 3.55 and it would jump off the line yet still get great mileage. Didn't need to put a tune in it either, the ford dealer who put them in moved the revs per mile up on the factory 3.31 option to match my speedo to GPS readout.

Isn't it more than the speedo that needs adjustment? Don't the shift points also, or are you stick?


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Old 12-02-2014, 09:41 AM   #92
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He said he's a stick - no shift points to worry about. The speedo will be off - the V6 in '99 is a totally different engine from the V6 of today. Personally, I wouldn't go over 3.73's . The 4.0 v6 was originally designed for trucks - you can't wind the snot out of them like today's cars without serious fortification.


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Old 12-02-2014, 09:56 AM   #93
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Just an FTY, my past V6 was an Auto, and had no issues with shift points on the 3.55 rear gear with the factory 3.31 tune feathered out to higher revs per mile. I think the shift points look to that setting as well. If not, well I could not notice it.
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:57 AM   #94
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He said he's a stick - no shift points to worry about. The speedo will be off - the V6 in '99 is a totally different engine from the V6 of today. Personally, I wouldn't go over 3.73's . The 4.0 v6 was originally designed for trucks - you can't wind the snot out of them like today's cars without serious fortification.


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Old 12-02-2014, 09:59 AM   #95
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Right but kb3030 asked the question about his '99
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:06 AM   #96
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Art's signature shows 2013 V6.
I need to change that, its now a 2013 GT
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Old 12-02-2014, 10:13 AM   #97
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Right but kb3030 asked the question about his '99

Correct, but Art was talking about the dealer adjusting his speedo only, which I quoted when I posed my question. Art has also changed his signature to show a 2013 GT stick.


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Old 12-03-2014, 08:55 AM   #98
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What the dealer adjusted on my V6 was the speed PID calibration. I have a Ford Procal tuner and have changed that Revs per mile to get my GT to match GPS speed dead on, doesn't even need to do a PCM flash, it sets the instrument panel instantly. I am pretty sure the auto on my V6 had factory shift tables to shift at certain speeds or RPMs. If based on Speed it would be looking at my PID I adjusted. If based on RPM (better) then it should be transparent? Aftermarkt tunes change the shift tables in the "D" position to hold to higher RPMs and increase fluid pressure for firmer shifts. I have confirmed they cannot change the shift patterns in the "S" sport mode.
At any rate, my V6 woke up and had my friend upset that it made his 2004 GT look slow. I never had any abnormal issue on shift points happen on that 3.55
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:07 PM   #99
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I am pretty sure the auto on my V6 had factory shift tables to shift at certain speeds or RPMs. If based on Speed it would be looking at my PID I adjusted. If based on RPM (better) then it should be transparent?
I would think that fraction load would be a factor in the shift table as well. Like if you have the cruise on and you go up a hill, it knows to down shift. Anyone know?

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Old 12-05-2014, 01:48 PM   #100
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So i talked to a mechanic about putting in gears and they said it would be $640. That doesnt seem right to me. Does anyone know generally how much it would be to install the gears?


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Old 12-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #101
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Unfortunately he's in the ballpark - at least in LA


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Old 12-05-2014, 03:34 PM   #102
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I paid $360 for labor for mine, and i supplied all the parts. Which is normally in the $250ish range.
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:17 PM   #103
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Okay. I thought it sounded overpriced a bit. Im buying my own parts too. I will keep looking around for a cheaper price.


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Old 12-07-2014, 04:44 PM   #104
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MY dealer put the 3.55 in the V6 for about $875 including all the new parts/install kits and new bearings; plus it would still be warranted for my 100K extended. I added a $200 ish rear AL axle cover and tax and all it was $1100. I felt that a fair price for a factory dealer work that would be covered for another 85,000 miles and a calibration that would leave a stock tune in the 3.7 V6 car.

My GT MT82 has the 3.31, and its more then fine for the street.
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:52 PM   #105
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I had the dealer do it for about the same for the same reason to my GT. Looking back I probably would have been fine with the 3.31s .... but the 3.73's are fun!



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