1969 Mustang 302 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 02-08-2014, 09:45 AM   #1
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1969 Mustang 302

Hey guys currently I'm 16 and I have a 2007 mustang v6 and I've been looking to get an older one and I have an opportunity at a sweet trade for a 1969 Mustang 302 and I was wondering would the 69 be faster and what I could do to make it a lot faster and get the most power out out of the v8?
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:41 PM   #2
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Check the car over carefully! Rust and body repair is super expensive to do. Older cars are pretty easy to hop up just do some reading or google it.

---------- Post added at 07:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:41 PM ----------

And in any car gears can make it feel like a new machine!
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:50 PM   #3
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Unless you have mechanical skill and body repair know how I would keep the 07. If you really do want the 69, and I dont blame you, make sure you crawl UNDER the car and check the floor pans, rocker panels, truck pans and all the points where the suspension bolts to the car for rust. More than likely tho all the bushings are going to need replace under the car. Its probably going to need shocks and the brakes are not going to be what you are use to. When you go to check the car out tell the guy you want it cold when you get their. Then check ALL the fluids. I like to take the oil filter off and look for glitter,metal, flakes in the oil. If it does have it then you dont want it. If it passes all the fluid tests then start it and listen for unusual sounds from the engine. Maybe a slight knocking or valve train clatter. It will make the most noise cold, hense the reason you want it cold when you get there. If it all sounds good then your ready for a test drive. Watch for smoke as you give it gas as that's a sign of bad rings or valve seals. Good luck man, if you do get it post some pics.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89GTstanger View Post
Unless you have mechanical skill and body repair know how I would keep the 07. If you really do want the 69, and I dont blame you, make sure you crawl UNDER the car and check the floor pans, rocker panels, truck pans and all the points where the suspension bolts to the car for rust. More than likely tho all the bushings are going to need replace under the car. Its probably going to need shocks and the brakes are not going to be what you are use to. When you go to check the car out tell the guy you want it cold when you get their. Then check ALL the fluids. I like to take the oil filter off and look for glitter,metal, flakes in the oil. If it does have it then you dont want it. If it passes all the fluid tests then start it and listen for unusual sounds from the engine. Maybe a slight knocking or valve train clatter. It will make the most noise cold, hense the reason you want it cold when you get there. If it all sounds good then your ready for a test drive. Watch for smoke as you give it gas as that's a sign of bad rings or valve seals. Good luck man, if you do get it post some pics.
Thanks man and the reason I'm doing this is because my license is supended for 6 months because of a little trouble so I would have a lot of time to work on it and stuff and he says he uses it a lot?
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:02 AM   #5
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That is one sexy car
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:05 AM   #6
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That is one sexy car
+1

Looks like its in better shape than I assumed...lol. I would still check for rust tho.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:18 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 89GTstanger View Post
+1



Looks like its in better shape than I assumed...lol. I would still check for rust tho.

Yeah and do you know what steps I should do in order to improve the engine and the prices and ways I can get the most power out of it?
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:32 AM   #8
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There is a lot that you can do. What kind of budget are you looking at? Try to find out what been done to up to today.
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:23 PM   #9
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There is a lot that you can do. What kind of budget are you looking at? Try to find out what been done to up to today.

I don't know what's been done but I'm only 16 so affordable stuff?
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:36 PM   #10
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Well for those I like the edelbrock air gap intakes. That's a little over 200 if I remember correctly. Headers, I would go long tube, and an h-pipe. A k&n air filter. And a Cam. That would require new springs also. And always put new lifters in with a cam. If you do a little at a time it won't be to expensive. If you put it all on at the same time you'll notice a HUGE difference.
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