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Old 02-08-2014, 03:26 PM   #1
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Performance parts dilemma

With the summer not too far, I'm planning on modding my 14 V6. I currently have a CAI and Bama tuner. I am for sure getting 3.73 gears, but I'm in dilemma for rest of the parts.

I do have a budget, since I'm a noob when it comes to doing stuff myself. I will be getting all these parts professionally installed - which means cost of labor (around $500 for gears itself) is going to be a biatch!

Here is why I need your guys advise:

1) I have a manual tranny and as you all know, it has its limitations. Missing gears, not being able to down/upshift into 2/3 gear, accidently shifting into 4th or 5th instead of 2/3.. And stuff. I have heard the stock shifter ain't too bad itself, it's the shietty stock rubber bracket. I'm wondering if Barton's one post bracket would solve these issues? I know getting a short throw shifter will be the right choice.. Its just too much extra money (both parts and installation).

2) I was looking around to upgrade fuel injectors from 19lb stocks to 24lb ford racing ones. I'm wondering if it would make any difference at low end torque for a stock motor? I am aware it would need a tune.

3) Shorty headers ($299 + $400-500 of labor) or Accel spark plugs kit ($369 + $60-100 labor)? I have read reviews about shorties, ppl have said they do sound good with minimal low end gains. Coils they said would quicken throttle response.

I am going to install a sound tube, I don't think the 'sound' part is what I am after. Speaking about better throttle response, would I be better off buying the coils instead?

Let me know what your guys thoughts are

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Old 02-08-2014, 05:49 PM   #2
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Edit** : since im getting 3.73 gears, do I really need coils/shorties for that extra punch down low?

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Old 02-08-2014, 06:37 PM   #3
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I think the first upgrade should be a single mass flywheel and a good clutch, then a one piece aluminum driveshaft, before upgrading the engine. the current design cannot handle to little 300 hp you have now, I have a similar car its a v6 premium MT and performance package. its now been in the shop for 3 weeks of the 4 weeks I have owned it. driveshaft issue, rear end issues, suspension issues. but since its under warranty , i'll let ford fix it, but as soon as the warranty is done, its upgrade time. be very careful of any modding while under warranty. if its detected ford will void your warranty.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:50 PM   #4
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Whiteline Positive Shift Kit for MT82 S197 Mustang - Vorshlag LLC

Try this mount to help your shifting issues. Also I must have gotten lucky because I never have issues shifting this car.

Why are you getting injectors for a basically stock motor? Same with the plug kit? Maybe Ford's are different but most stock coils and injectors are good for just about any sort of bolt on parts combo. What are you trying to accomplish and what are you trying to do with the car?

I'm almost at the same mod point, and a driveshaft and clutch/flywheel kit are on my short list along with lighter wheels, sway bars, shocks, uca and a catback system.
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Old 02-08-2014, 09:52 PM   #5
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Also spent some of that labor money on tools and install it all yourself. I could see giving the gears to a shop but not the rest.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierd View Post
Whiteline Positive Shift Kit for MT82 S197 Mustang - Vorshlag LLC

Try this mount to help your shifting issues. Also I must have gotten lucky because I never have issues shifting this car.

Why are you getting injectors for a basically stock motor? Same with the plug kit? Maybe Ford's are different but most stock coils and injectors are good for just about any sort of bolt on parts combo. What are you trying to accomplish and what are you trying to do with the car?

I'm almost at the same mod point, and a driveshaft and clutch/flywheel kit are on my short list along with lighter wheels, sway bars, shocks, uca and a catback system.
I'm basically looking for quicker off the line acceleration. Aka sharp throttle response from dead stop. Our 3.7s suck really bad at low end torque, hence the 3.73 gears.

I was also looking around for other power adder bolt ons - saw ppl were vouching for injectors, coils and shorties in their reviews. I know injectors would be a waste of money, just wanted to double check in case I was wrong. I also slumped across coils on AM and as per reviews, ppl were happy with their throttle response after they installed em.

I did think about driveshaft too, its just gonna cost me too much money and I'm not the one to track/go past 70-80 mph

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Old 02-08-2014, 11:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by bazinga11 View Post
I'm basically looking for quicker off the line acceleration. Aka sharp throttle response from dead stop. Our 3.7s suck really bad at low end torque, hence the 3.73 gears. I was also looking around for other power adder bolt ons - saw ppl were vouching for injectors, coils and shorties in their reviews. I know injectors would be a waste of money, just wanted to double check in case I was wrong. I also slumped across coils on AM and as per reviews, ppl were happy with their throttle response after they installed em. I did think about driveshaft too, its just gonna cost me too much money and I'm not the one to track/go past 70-80 mph || BlackOnBlack ||
Personably I don't see coil packs being worth the $ on a brand new car but I don't have any experience with them so I could be wrong! A 1pc driveshaft is gonna shed rotating mass to help spin the engine quicker & give better throttle response. I'm pretty sure the gears will give u the off the line kick ur looking for! As for the shifter I hear the MGW is the best for the mt82 but it's kind of pricey (but I hear it's worth it) but maybe to start u can get the whileline trans bushing & Barton bracket & go from there!
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:04 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Oh2freshstang View Post
Personably I don't see coil packs being worth the $ on a brand new car but I don't have any experience with them so I could be wrong! A 1pc driveshaft is gonna shed rotating mass to help spin the engine quicker & give better throttle response. I'm pretty sure the gears will give u the off the line kick ur looking for! As for the shifter I hear the MGW is the best for the mt82 but it's kind of pricey (but I hear it's worth it) but maybe to start u can get the whileline trans bushing & Barton bracket & go from there!
Aye for sure I was planning on getting the MGW, its just that I'm starting school soon and I'm already paying a lot for car payments + insurance. So just looking for economical alternatives to get better shifting feel.

I was reading about white line trans bushing, its says only compatible with 2011-14 GTs? Any guesses what sort of difference would it make when coupled with a Barton bracket?


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Old 02-09-2014, 01:16 AM   #9
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Oh yea ur right the WL bushing is for GTs only! I don't have any experience modding the mt82 but there's a bunch of people on here that have used the Barton shifter & bracket u should try to searching the forum & seeing the reviews!
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:04 AM   #10
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The barton two post shifter bracket is what i would get if i had a manual transmission. That whiteline bushing kit should work on the V6. Since the GT and V6 share the same transmission, but i could be wrong. If you do get gears the aluminum driveshaft is highly recommended. Also with 373 gears and you having a manual you will probably run into traction problems especially if you launch with them. Springs dont really improve acceleration much its that they give you alot better traction off the line. The gear upgrade and tune are by far the best upgrades on our car. I still get 22mpg all city driving with my 410 gears until i step on it then it usually goes down .1 every WOT pull.
Do not get the Accel coil packs those are the biggest waste of money and at most you would gain 3-5hp and thats only if your coils are in bad shape or 6-8 years old. I would get the shorty headers they will improve low end torque and make your exhaust sound a little bit deeper and louder. I installed my longtube headers with the help of a friend its just time consuming. Shorty headers should be alot easier to install then my longtubes were.
Also worth noting did you buy the diablosport trinity or sct tuner? Because if you have the sct tuner I would switch to MPT tunes they are far more aggressive of a tune compared to Bama performance and your 1/4 mile times will improve by just switching to one of their tunes.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willb2305 View Post
The barton two post shifter bracket is what i would get if i had a manual transmission. That whiteline bushing kit should work on the V6. Since the GT and V6 share the same transmission, but i could be wrong. If you do get gears the aluminum driveshaft is highly recommended. Also with 373 gears and you having a manual you will probably run into traction problems especially if you launch with them. Springs dont really improve acceleration much its that they give you alot better traction off the line. The gear upgrade and tune are by far the best upgrades on our car. I still get 22mpg all city driving with my 410 gears until i step on it then it usually goes down .1 every WOT pull. Do not get the Accel coil packs those are the biggest waste of money and at most you would gain 3-5hp and thats only if your coils are in bad shape or 6-8 years old. I would get the shorty headers they will improve low end torque and make your exhaust sound a little bit deeper and louder. I installed my longtube headers with the help of a friend its just time consuming. Shorty headers should be alot easier to install then my longtubes were. Also worth noting did you buy the diablosport trinity or sct tuner? Because if you have the sct tuner I would switch to MPT tunes they are far more aggressive of a tune compared to Bama performance and your 1/4 mile times will improve by just switching to one of their tunes.
Whiteline bushing only works with mt82/coyote motor combo idk why but that's what the specs say.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:47 AM   #12
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For the shifter I went with the Barton shifter bracket it made a huge difference, if your going to change the shifter completely don't go with the Barton as it only changes the top part, spend the extra $$$ and get the MGW which replaces top and bottom. I can say just the Barton bracket turned this otherwise POS shifter into a pretty decent one, its a cheap upgrade that makes a big difference!
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:27 AM   #13
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Unless you are super wealthy****

I would do this first,
MT-82 SHORT THROW SHIFTER

Second would be an aluminum drive shaft- (Lighter then stock)
I would stay away from the larger injectors unless you are not going to use your car much on the street. The stock injectors work great on your 227 inch engine.
Shorty headers will give you more low end torque
Long tubes are great for top end but you will lose at the lower RPM's.
Gears will be a great seat of the pants feel and well worth the money. Find a good speed shop in your town to install them. ( Probably way less then $500.00 just for installation.)
The money you save on to big injectors will buy you a nice set of "NITTO-#NTO5R" Drag radial tires for the traction you will need with these improvements to go along with your CAI & Tuner. You can buy them with the money you save by NOT buying accel coils. ( Stock coils are fine unless you have a bad one.)

It won't make your car faster but you should get a decent oil catch can such as the JLT to stop the PCV bypass oil from sludging up your engine.

After you do these improvements you may want to think of some suspension mod's when you save up some more Moola ($$$$$)

When you do these mod's you will end up with a great Street Rod that will be fun to drive and still be really quick when you want it to be.
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Old 02-09-2014, 02:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willb2305 View Post
The barton two post shifter bracket is what i would get if i had a manual transmission. That whiteline bushing kit should work on the V6. Since the GT and V6 share the same transmission, but i could be wrong. If you do get gears the aluminum driveshaft is highly recommended. Also with 373 gears and you having a manual you will probably run into traction problems especially if you launch with them. Springs dont really improve acceleration much its that they give you alot better traction off the line. The gear upgrade and tune are by far the best upgrades on our car. I still get 22mpg all city driving with my 410 gears until i step on it then it usually goes down .1 every WOT pull.
Do not get the Accel coil packs those are the biggest waste of money and at most you would gain 3-5hp and thats only if your coils are in bad shape or 6-8 years old. I would get the shorty headers they will improve low end torque and make your exhaust sound a little bit deeper and louder. I installed my longtube headers with the help of a friend its just time consuming. Shorty headers should be alot easier to install then my longtubes were.
Also worth noting did you buy the diablosport trinity or sct tuner? Because if you have the sct tuner I would switch to MPT tunes they are far more aggressive of a tune compared to Bama performance and your 1/4 mile times will improve by just switching to one of their tunes.
Hey thanks a lot for your insight. What's the difference between one post and two post Barton bracket, performance wise?

I have performance package (I guess it already comes with upgraded suspension?), would I still have traction issues with factory Pirelli P zeros? I do 85% of driving on hwy (60-65mph, 1800-1900 rpms), how much hit my mpg is going to take if I'm switching over to 3.73? I'm not too worried about it, just curious loll


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Old 02-09-2014, 02:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I would do this first,
MT-82 SHORT THROW SHIFTER

Second would be an aluminum drive shaft- (Lighter then stock)
I would stay away from the larger injectors unless you are not going to use your car much on the street. The stock injectors work great on your 227 inch engine.
Shorty headers will give you more low end torque
Long tubes are great for top end but you will lose at the lower RPM's.
Gears will be a great seat of the pants feel and well worth the money. Find a good speed shop in your town to install them. ( Probably way less then $500.00 just for installation.)
The money you save on to big injectors will buy you a nice set of "NITTO-#NTO5R" Drag radial tires for the traction you will need with these improvements to go along with your CAI & Tuner. You can buy them with the money you save by NOT buying accel coils. ( Stock coils are fine unless you have a bad one.)

It won't make your car faster but you should get a decent oil catch can such as the JLT to stop the PCV bypass oil from sludging up your engine.

After you do these improvements you may want to think of some suspension mod's when you save up some more Moola ($$$$$)

When you do these mod's you will end up with a great Street Rod that will be fun to drive and still be really quick when you want it to be.
Ronnie
Thanks Ronnie! I will try to get MGW after saving up some money, its something I will enjoy for sure when I'm unleashing my speed deamons after a hard day at work lol.

Speed shops here in my town charge your $100/hr give or take for their labor. I spoke to guy a in dealership and he said it would take around 5hrs for their installation, and 4-5hrs for shorties. I guess I would a driveshaft first, save up some moola and then maybe get shorties. I'm going to install sound tube for now, I guess that would suffice my need for sound lol

Do you tune know if anyone other than BBK makes shorties for our 3.7s? I have also heard here and there that these can shift your torque band to 2000 rpms from 3000ish. Is it true, or too over ambitious prediction?

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Old 02-09-2014, 03:38 PM   #16
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get a new coil pack from accell or some headers
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:51 PM   #17
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Bazinga your factory Pirelli P zeros tires have better traction then the crappy michelin energy saver tires that came stock on my base v6. But again since you have a manual and can dump the clutch off the line you will need wider tires anywhere from 250-275 rear tire width size for a gear upgrade. The barton one post bracket i believe is the old version so the two post bracket is the better updated version. Since you do alot of highway driving with 373 gears you would lose anywhere from 2-3.5mpg and 410 gears probably around 3-5mpg. I think BBK is the only one that makes shorty headers for our car at the moment. For longtube headers you have BBK, Borla, ARH(American Racing Headers), and Mac which just recently came out with headers. If you get longtube headers I would get ARH they didnt have them at the time I bought mine. Also for your aluminum driveshaft you can get the one that AmericanMuscle sells which is a good one. I chose Dynotech they make driveshafts for 80-90% of Nascar so I know I wont have problems with it and it has been put to the test multiple times. You could always just buy lower control arms and an upper control arm to improve your traction with a gear upgrade since its alot cheaper then buying new tires.
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:02 PM   #18
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Bazinga your factory Pirelli P zeros tires have better traction then the crappy michelin energy saver tires that came stock on my base v6. But again since you have a manual and can dump the clutch off the line you will need wider tires anywhere from 250-275 rear tire width size for a gear upgrade. The barton one post bracket i believe is the old version so the two post bracket is the better updated version. Since you do alot of highway driving with 373 gears you would lose anywhere from 2-3.5mpg and 410 gears probably around 3-5mpg. I think BBK is the only one that makes shorty headers for our car at the moment. For longtube headers you have BBK, Borla, ARH(American Racing Headers), and Mac which just recently came out with headers. If you get longtube headers I would get ARH they didnt have them at the time I bought mine. Also for your aluminum driveshaft you can get the one that AmericanMuscle sells which is a good one. I chose Dynotech they make driveshafts for 80-90% of Nascar so I know I wont have problems with it and it has been put to the test multiple times. You could always just buy lower control arms and an upper control arm to improve your traction with a gear upgrade since its alot cheaper then buying new tires.
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:33 PM   #19
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With the shorty headers peak torque feels like it comes in around 3000 rpm, but there is a lot more low end pull in general.

Best bang for your buck mods for acceleration would be gears and a tune.

I have shorty headers, catless h pipe, 4.10 gears, tune, intake, and Borla axlebacks on my car. The two things that made the biggest difference in speed are the tune and gears.

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Old 02-10-2014, 12:42 AM   #20
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Everyone has an idea on how to improve performance. Coils and injectors at this stage would be wasted money. I would get a good shifter setup first, and a nice catback system. Having your intake manifold ported would be a help. The driveshaft upgrade is needed if you put a lot of stress on the driveline or disengage the governor limit.
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:29 AM   #21
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What about control arms and idk i think shorties are a waste of money.... and tires tires tires lol no point having power of you can't put it down and stock or cars have a problem with traction...

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Old 02-10-2014, 01:31 PM   #22
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Bazinga your factory Pirelli P zeros tires have better traction then the crappy michelin energy saver tires that came stock on my base v6. But again since you have a manual and can dump the clutch off the line you will need wider tires anywhere from 250-275 rear tire width size for a gear upgrade. The barton one post bracket i believe is the old version so the two post bracket is the better updated version. Since you do alot of highway driving with 373 gears you would lose anywhere from 2-3.5mpg and 410 gears probably around 3-5mpg. I think BBK is the only one that makes shorty headers for our car at the moment. For longtube headers you have BBK, Borla, ARH(American Racing Headers), and Mac which just recently came out with headers. If you get longtube headers I would get ARH they didnt have them at the time I bought mine. Also for your aluminum driveshaft you can get the one that AmericanMuscle sells which is a good one. I chose Dynotech they make driveshafts for 80-90% of Nascar so I know I wont have problems with it and it has been put to the test multiple times. You could always just buy lower control arms and an upper control arm to improve your traction with a gear upgrade since its alot cheaper then buying new tires.
Don't the performance package already come with and upper and lower control arms (aka handling package)?

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Old 02-10-2014, 01:37 PM   #23
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What about control arms and idk i think shorties are a waste of money.... and tires tires tires lol no point having power of you can't put it down and stock or cars have a problem with traction...

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Lol bro I have 255 pirelli summer tires and I'm dying to put em back once this winter is over. I have Michelin X-ice 3s' atm, I'm honestly scared to go WOT on them lol

I have heard mixed reviews about shorties. Some say they're really help in making your car responsive at low end torque, others say very negligible difference. I wouldn't mind em, its the total cost of $700-800 (with labor) just to get that 'minimal gains' driving me nuts at the moment. I have BAMA tuner, I guess it should do me good with 3.73s?

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Old 02-10-2014, 02:11 PM   #24
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500-700 labor dammm cheee lol im a all my self mechanic not to mention youtube teaches all the needs to knows and its really just a few bolts ons with the shorties the long tube may require cutting
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:25 PM   #25
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Lol yeah man I called a few exhaust shops and they said it's 4-5 hr job @ $100ish per hour. I wish I had basic mechanic knowledge too, just don't have tools and time to learn lol

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Old 02-10-2014, 02:41 PM   #26
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for real its like a 4 hour job at THE MOST and u can have the mechanic skills it most likely the tools you will need jack stands and remove all the bolts going to the old headers find out which come out either from top or bottom one may be the opposite direction and if any thing is in the way unbolt that too remember how it was bolt that back and snap on the new ones with the seal most headers even come with instructions as for the high flow cats some are clamps you tighten but i would recomend a welder
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:10 PM   #27
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Are there NO Mustang clubs in your area of Canada????

I don't know if you have any Mustang clubs in your area. If Not and you are close enough to the border see if there are any in the States you can join. Most car clubs have some members that will help a fellow member put stuff on. You buy the Beer & Pizza and make it a great Saturday event. (Not the gears) but headers should be fun to install with a few other Mustang owners.
Ronnie
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2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:23 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I don't know if you have any Mustang clubs in your area. If Not and you are close enough to the border see if there are any in the States you can join. Most car clubs have some members that will help a fellow member put stuff on. You buy the Beer & Pizza and make it a great Saturday event. (Not the gears) but headers should be fun to install with a few other Mustang owners.
Ronnie
Awesome, thanks Ronnie! Wish you were in WA, I would have fed you beer and pizza all day lol

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