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Old 03-23-2014, 08:06 PM   #36
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Makes sense! Thanks I'll be sure to do that
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:21 PM   #37
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Encountered my first problem. Undid the four bolts connecting the drivetrain to the axle but the drivetrain won't come out. Help me!
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:23 PM   #38
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Driveshaft? I'm not sure the correct name... Haha
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:32 PM   #39
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Does it slide forward at all? Is your axle completely suspended with no weight resting on it?
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:37 PM   #40
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It twists but won't slide forward and the axle is not supported. Do I need to put the jack under the axle?
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:03 PM   #41
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You could try jacking up the axle a little bit to see if it helps at all.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:10 PM   #42
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Okay I'll try that
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:43 PM   #43
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Okay I'll try that

---------- Post added at 10:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 PM ----------

Nope didn't work
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:45 PM   #44
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Nope didn't work
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:21 AM   #45
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I would continue taking the axle out and come back to it later. A different perspective may be all you need. I know my driveshaft won't clear my pinion nut but that's cause my mounting flange is just a hair too thick.
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:23 AM   #46
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The driveshaft won't even budge forward! I'll just do the test and slide it off last
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:35 AM   #47
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OK. When you get a chance can you posy up a picture of the slip yoke? It's the part that slides into the transmission.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:22 AM   #48
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Yeah I'll get one when I start working on it today
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:51 PM   #49
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:00 PM   #50
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Damn that's in there pretty good.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:38 PM   #51
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So just continue removing the axle?
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:56 PM   #52
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I will try to give you a play by play here
1.) jack up the car support it with jack stands by placing jack stands on the body of the car, allowing the axle to hang, spray all nuts with PB Blaster.

2.) remove wheels and brake calipers use plastic zip ties to tie them off to the side
3.) place a floor jack under the differential and jack it up about three inches
4.) remove bottom shock nut and bolt
5.) remove driveshaft from differential (Use a 3/8" drive swivel socket best to use with an impact gun) Make sure to put a relationship mark on both the differential and driveshaft hub
6.) remove control arm bolts, you may have to jack the axle up here and there to get it to come free

The best advise i could give you is go but a Haynes or Haines or what ever manual not the best but better than nothing good luck

Forgot to disconnect the ABS sensor if equipped
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:45 PM   #53
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Yeah I would continue removing the axle.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:07 PM   #54
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Lower control arm bolt is stuck. Got the backside off but it won't come through
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:14 PM   #55
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Spray the crap out of it with a rust penetrant. Hopefully it's not rusted to the collar
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:22 PM   #56
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It's rusted to the collar. Very badly. Tried everything and it won't budge.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:26 PM   #57
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Do you have access to an air hammer?
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:30 PM   #58
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heat it up then hit it out. try jacking it up a bit to align the hole better too if you think thats the problem. Try hitting it out with an extension and a metal hammer should go straight through. You tube videos always make it look easy IMO, but in reality the bolts are always a little more difficult to get out. Just remember they can always be replaced!
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:52 PM   #59
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The nut is completely misshapen. Heated it and hammered the living crap out of it. Gonna try cutting it now
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:16 PM   #60
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if you have air tools an air chisel with a point bit works well for driving the bolts out. you will more than like have to replace the bolt but from the sound of things you are well beyond that anyhow.

Didn't see JDF post
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:41 PM   #61
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I had to cut then out. Going to need I replace the bushings. Where's the cheapest place to find them?
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:54 AM   #62
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Changing out rear end

Click image for larger version

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ID:	151941the nut after trying to force it through. Finally got the axle out after cutting the bolts
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:16 AM   #63
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Nice! Driveshaft came right out? I would check local parts stores for the bushings but it may he possible that you will need to buy new control arms, but I don't know for sure
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:42 AM   #64
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Yep it came right off! I'll check around for some
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:10 AM   #65
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Honestly, just buy new control arms. The steedas are great and not very much money. DO NOT get SR/MAC/BBK super cheap ones. I think the steedas are $200 or so right now. This is the PERFECT time to do it and the difference is very noticible.
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:56 AM   #66
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+1^ I thoroughly regret not shelling out the cash for the FTBR kit when I did my IRS swap. That's gonna be a fun job to tackle once I do buy their kit.
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:00 AM   #67
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It'll be easier if you just drop the whole IRS out and do it like that. Honestly really the only super hard part is the bushings and they make the tools for that plus if you drill out the rubber bushings a bunch it makes them come out easier.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:09 PM   #68
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I don't think I have time to wait for them to be shipped gotta have a car for school
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:52 PM   #69
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I don't think I have time to wait for them to be shipped gotta have a car for school
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:55 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
It'll be easier if you just drop the whole IRS out and do it like that. Honestly really the only super hard part is the bushings and they make the tools for that plus if you drill out the rubber bushings a bunch it makes them come out easier.
Yeah I'm just being lazy to be honest.
I'll do it one of these days if I ever get the free time to do it.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Milehigh STK View Post
I don't think I have time to wait for them to be shipped gotta have a car for school
Parts usually hit my doorstep in two days when I order from LMR.
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