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Old 08-10-2011, 01:23 PM   #36
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

Quote:
Originally Posted by goherd View Post
On American muscle there is an xcharger supercharger kit. Comes with everything you need to reach your potential goal. If you watch the build of the 2005 v6 they reached well over 300 with nitrous. Really depends on when and how you want the power.
Just remember that the stock clutch will not hold that much power for long. So you will need to change the gears, tune, clutch and fly wheel. Among a few other products.
even this is $4,470, and the better version is $5,970. The results you will get are not worth the amount of money your going to spend, and i believe thats the general consensus.
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:32 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpectorV
people say "I want 400hp" while 400hp in a 300lb car will be much different than a 4,000lb car for example~ and many dont realize that you get used to power... to me now anything less than 400rwhp is slow... but to some its fast for example
400!?!!! What do you have? Knightrider's cousin or one of the fast and furious cars?!
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:38 PM   #38
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He has a go-kart lol
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:23 PM   #39
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

well just using it as an example. A more real world would be a 1250lb Ariel Atom with 300-350hp vs a GT500 with 550hp... at 4000lbs lol
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:24 PM   #40
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

idk about go kart but his car definately goes.. fast as ****
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:34 PM   #41
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I'm just wanting someone that has 300+hp in a 05-09 v6 4.0L and what mods you added to get it.
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:07 PM   #42
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By putting a v8 in it will get u to 350+
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:34 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnstonb93
I'm just wanting someone that has 300+hp in a 05-09 v6 4.0L and what mods you added to get it.
I'm pretty sure I gave u that information... No matter what u add to it you won't get there without doing 1 of these 2 options.... Forged internals and nitrous... Or turbo or supercharge plus bolt ons... Also I forgot bigger fuel injectors.... Dynotuned and moderate with the boost unless you go with forged internals as well
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:07 PM   #44
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Listen go the shelby's page. You will see they have a v6 with over 300 horses. I do not remember them saying about anything changing internally. I called them about a question I had about my new Spec 2+ clutch I was putting in.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:29 PM   #45
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

« First Look: Pre-painted Parts Launch 10.26.09
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How Do I Add Horsepower to My V6 Mustang?
Published by Heather on October 20, 2009 in Mustang Q&A. ( View Comments )

Ford Mustang Q&A
V6Stang04 asked: “I have a stock V6 Ford Mustang, what can I do to increase it’s performance?”

As a V6 owner myself, I understand how frustrating it can be trying to modify a V6. While there is not as much aftermarket support for the V6s as there is for the V8s it is still out there and available. Supercharger and turbo kits are available for V6s now. But if you’re starting slow or don’t have quite that much to spend I would recommend a cold air intake, upgraded exhaust system and a tuner.

Cold Air Intake

Cold air intake systems by themselves can add 8-10 horsepower to your car and are relatively inexpensive. A K&N FIPK V6 Intake kit would be a great option. If you’re not looking to spend $200-$300 on a complete intake system, a K&N Drop-In Replacement Filter is a less-expensive alternative.


However, for a 05-09 ‘Stang I would recommend an intake/tuner combo kit. In most cases, S197 Mustangs will not run if a new CAI is installed without an aftermarket tune. The car will start but stall out immediately.

Tuner

A tuner reprograms your car’s computer, working with your modifications, to produce the most horsepower (or mpg’s, depending on the tune). Tuners can be tricky. If you’re unfamiliar with them you can check out our tuner tech article for help.

A custom tune is ideal. But know that tuning a car by yourself can be tricky if you’re not sure what to do. There is a small possibility of actually damaging the car if you run it with an improperly calibrated tune.

A custom tune designed to run with high octane gas (91+) will produce optimal results and add as much as 20 bhp to a bone-stock car. Octane is a vital factor: You can always run higher octane gas than you are tuned for but never lower octane!

Exhaust

V6 Mustang Exhaust

Choosing an exhaust can be confusing; we have a great exhaust tech article on exhaust systems/terminology if you’re wondering what an H-pipe is, or if you just need a refresher. I’ve heard that putting an aftermarket exhaust on a V6 will give it a high-pitched, raspy exhaust note, but in my experience this is not always true! There are many factors that determine the sound of your exhaust: a balance between intake and exhaust is crucial. If you have doubts about what setup is right for you then call our knowledgeable tech staff. They’ll make sure you get the sound and power you want.

Six cylinder Mustangs have a Y-pipe, which funnels exhaust gases from both banks into one tail-pipe. The most common “dual exhaust” out there is another Y-pipe that attaches after the catalytic converter and splits the stock mid-pipe into two tail-pipes. That’s fine if you just want the look of a dual exhaust. If, on the other hand, you want to squeeze the most ponies out of your pony, an X-pipe that allows you to use a GT cat-back exhaust is definitely the way to go. I’ve got a Pypes Stainless Steel X-Pipe on my 2004 V6 and, with a GT cat-back, I picked up another 15-20 bhp.

These mods will put you on the right track to building your V6 into a serious street machine. V8s will undoubtedly continue to dominate with their large displacement and infinite aftermarket options. But stay tuned as the V6 world is steadily growing and gaining momentum. This has not gone unnoticed here at AmericanMuscle and we look forward to seeing more modded V6s at our next annual show!

Read more: How Do I Add Horsepower to My V6 Mustang? | AmericanMuscle.com Mustang Blog



also go to supersixmotorsports.com, hope this helps

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

here is another, this should give u a good idea.


V6 Mustang Modification Guide
Posted by Brent Wilson on February 28, 2007 - 2 Comments
1Share

This article is meant to give someone who is new to cars some info on where and what to get for their V6 Mustang to make it faster and more fun to drive. Check out RGR’s article in the V6 forum for more great info. If you have any questions, sign up on our V6 Mustang Forum and our members will be glad to help you.

Suggestion One
First decide if you really want to sink money into a V6 Mustang. We 6′ers have a lower potential horsepower platform than our v8 brethren. Basically meaning we get less gains for the mods we do.

Now this is of course not the case in non engine related matters. For example, adding 3.73 gears and a locking differential would greatly benefit both a v8 as well as a v6. Same goes for most suspension mods. Tuning the cars computer can greatly benefit both platforms, even more if you have an auto. The point is that a v6 is capable of making big horsepower…but only for a V6 Mustang. If you want to make 800 at the wheels then go buy a fox and play with that. The v6 is a reliable platform to build a 300-400 horsepower daily driver. Granted drastic improvements must be made to most of the suspension and drivetrain to get there, the stock block has been known to stand up to quite the beating.

Suggestion Two
Work from the inside out. From my experience, and I’m sure other would agree, the gains from basic bolt on upgrades to a v6 are slim to none. It makes much more sense from a financial outlook as well as a performance outlook to first build a good base to have fun with.

For the big spenders you can have your motor stroked to a 4.2 v6. This is done using the stock or forged, depending on application, crank out of a Ford 4.2 6cyl engine. You can buy stroker kits from RPM Mustangs, Super Six Motorsports and Morano V6 Racing. You can also pull a 4.2 out of a donor car and just use that. A used 4.2 rotating assembly can be had for rather cheap and once checked and machined, serve as a junkyard stroker kit! (You will have to use the pistons from a 4.2 as well)

For the medium spenders, I guess that’s what you call em, there are Head/Cam/Intake packages available from the same three as above. They utilize your stock bottom end, the block, crank, pistons and rods, and improve performance at the same time. The heads are given a full port and polish, new valves/springs, 3 angle valve job, and can be fully machined ready to bolt on for you. I also believe that all 3 sites mentioned will give you a custom speced cam if you order from them. This meaning they will talk to you about your goals for your car, and match a cam to your own personal interests. There are a ton of good cams out there and new grinds are being thought up each day I’m sure. The cam will increase the flow of air coming into and out of your cylinders by keeping valves open longer and opening them faster in some high-ramp lobe cases. It will change the sound of your exhaust note a ton and wake the car up. Lastly the intakes that you’ll get will be also ported and polished. The porter will take imperfections out of the runner walls by smoothing them out. All three mods complement each other very nicely. A nice cam will be held back by stock heads, while a nice set of heads will not be nearly as effective as if they had had a cam custom speced for them.

Suggestion Three
Point is, its easier to do it all at once. You don’t want to have to take an engine apart twice. After you pick which of the above routes you’d like to go or perhaps combine them and almost be done, it’s time to work on some suspension/drivetrain stuff.

Drivetrain

The stock V6 Mustang drivetrain is a dog. Well, maybe that is a little too drastic. The 5 speed versions are a bit more fun, as are the newer 99-04 due to the
better gearing, but they could use some help. First step in Drivetrain mods should be some new rear end gears and a locking differential.

Ring Gear and Pinion Set
The general rule of thumb is 4.10′s for an auto, and 3.55/3.73 for 5 speeds. In case your gear illiterate, the higher the number the lower the gear. Meaning 4.10 would give more acceleration than a 3.73 gear. You may be thinking, “I’ll take all I can get!”. Just know this, lower gearing will lead to increased cruising RPMs on the highway. This will affect gas mileage slightly (meaning 1-3mpg) at highway speeds. It also puts extra load on your car which is something to consider if it’s your daily driver. Cars that have stock computers will need to have their speed limiters raised and 99-04′s will need the gearing in the computer changed as well. Or they can pick something up called the SpeedCal which changes it for you. 94-98 will need a specific speedo gear for their gearing.

Trac-Lok Differential
You should also consider upgrading to a Traction Lock Differential. This will give you increased traction for your new gearing and allow you to do a 2 wheel burnout. No more one tire fryer. There is more than one type of Trac Lok, but thats where things can get complicated. If you’d like to explore your options check out Musclecarclub.com – Library – Tech – Differential for a very informative and technical article on differentials.

Gears and a new Tlok are one of the most beneficial mods you can do to your car. Relatively inexpensive if you can find an honest shop to install them, gears can be had for under 200 and the Traction Lok for under 300. Avoid used gears and used traction locks as gears develop a wear pattern after installed and traction locks take a lot of abuse. Also if you plan on going Forced Induction, even if you are automatic, you should go with no higher than 3.73′s. The extra power will be enough to move the taller gear. If you were to use a 4.10 gear in a super/turbo charged car it would bring the car up through the revs too fast and you will basically top out.

Aluminum Driveshaft
Aluminum driveshafts are a nice “finish it up” mod. They are not worth the price in my opinion.They will give slightly quicker revs and a minimal increase, but I doubt you would feel much. Maybe .1-.2 in the 1320.

Automatic Transmissions
The v6 automatic comes with an AODE in 1994-1997 Mustangs and a 4r70w 3 speed with Overdrive transmission for 1998-2004 Mustangs. The stock transmission suffers from soggy shifts and been known to overheat with abuse. You should invest in 2 inexpensive mods to help it.

Transmission Cooler

Currently your transmission fluid is cooled along side your coolant in your radiator. Don’t worry they are kept separate! By investing in a separate cooler you isolate the fluids heat and give better cooling to your transmission. The cooler can be mounted in a variety of places, but its mostly up to you. People like to mount them in the lower grills. They can be had for a little over 50 bucks at almost all auto stores. B&M is a trusted name.

Shift Improver Kit
Do not get a cheap one that alters shifts electronically. They put extra pressure in the valve body and can be bad for the transmission. Look for the ones that modify the separator plates between the valve body and main control/fluid pan. B&M as well as Trans-go make a good shift kit. Another option for the Do It Yourselfer would be to go to http://www.tccoa.org”>TCCOA and look in their transmission tech articles for Jerry’s Mod.You may also be interested in one of the hand held tuners below will allow a tuner to firm the shift points up.

Torque Converter
The next logical step in automatic transmission modding would be to replace the Torque Converter. Most would recommend a 2800-3200 stall converter for a stock-modded 6′er. A new converter will help your launch nearly as much as the gears and T-lok. It’s been said to be like Gears part 2! Replacing the converter means removing the tranny and some don’t have the resources or the knowledge to do such a task.

Manual Transmissions
Well buds, theres some stuff that even you can do to improve performace. I have an auto so not much experience, but there are aftermarket shifters as well as clutches/flywheels for sale to beef your ****. Shifters will help you nail 3rd gear and give you shorter throws, while clutches/flywheels will give greater grip for launch and less rotational mass meaning quicker revs.

Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum flywheels allow you to rev up faster while reducing drivetrain loss, resulting in more horsepower to your rear wheels, just by reducing the amount of rotating mass and force it takes to get the flywheel turning.

High-Performance Clutch Kit
Nothing sucks more than adding more horsepower to your Mustang and then getting to the track only to have your clutch fail after one or two passed. In order to prevent that you’ll need to get a high performance clutch. The most popular by far for Mustang owners is SPEC clutches. Check out the Stage 1 and Stage 2 to see which one you think is for you.

Short Shifters
The stock manual shifter leaves a lot to be desired. That’s why short throw shifters are all the crazy with Mustang enthusiasts. In fact, for some, it’s one of the first modifications they do to their Mustang. A short throw shifter is an excellent way to make driving your Mustang more enjoyable and comfortable. The Steeda Shifter below is one of the most popular shifters for the V6 Mustang.

Suspension
Suspension offers so much potential for almost any car is amazing. Almost anything can be turned into a corner carver with the right resources and knowledge. Our cars are great platforms for Auto cross racing. They benefit from better weight distribution and a lighter front end over a v8 model.

First step is usually springs, and do we remember Lesson 3? Do it all at once! So that means if your gonna do springs, do struts and shocks. You have to remove each to do the other.

Lowering Springs
Question what kind of drop your looking for. Ford C Springs are a nice choice for someone looking for a small drop(about .8 front 1.3 rear). Eibach springs are pricey, Ford C’s can be had for nearly $130 less than their Eibach or H&R cousins. Many recommend H&R if your looking for a bigger drop than 1.5″, although there are many satisfied Eibach customers out there. Just know that going over that 1.5″ mark will require Caster Camber Plates(“C/C Plates”) to correct your alignment.

C/C Plates
Highly recommended for anyone who has a lowered Mustang, Caster Camber Plates insures that your tires last as long as possible on your lowered Mustang.

Rear Sway Bar
Some lucky V6 Mustang owners have one from the factory. For those that weren’t fortunate enough to have one (go look!) this is a worthwhile investment as it greatly increases handling ability. No one likes the back end getting away from them in a tight turn.

Tubular Front Swaybar
Another great addition to suspension minded modders. Increase your V6 Mustang’s ability to maneuver through those turns by installing a Tubular Front Sway Bar. The Steeda below is top notch quality. 1994-1995 Mustang owners need to be sure to pick up end links while purchasing.

Shocks & Struts
Properly working shocks and struts are a must for a good launch at the drag strip or a good day on the auto cross track. They are also a must if you are lowering your car as your stock ones won’t last long with a decent drop. Think riding in the back seat of the Mustang sucks now? Just wait till your shocks and struts give out.

Other mods you can do to stiffen up your chassis are a Strut Tower Brace, Subframe connectors, jacking rails, and Matrix Braces (look for Kenny Brown). You can do Upper and Lower control Arms to give you better bite off launches and better handling through corners. You can pick up full replacement bushing kits and get rid of those tired worn out old ones and replace with stiffer performance ones. There are also lightweight K-Members, battery relocation Kits, Panhard Bars, coilover conversion kits and more!

Boltons
Ah finally the boltons! I’m going to go through from most beneficial to least on a STOCK engine. On engines with increased airflow due to a new top/bottom end my statements may not be true. I will clarify when I can.

The number one most beneficial bolt on? Why that’s a tuned computer.We talked about them briefly earlier but I can’t stress how important a good tune really is. It is what makes or breaks a well built car. Stock cars will benefit from increased timing, among better shift points, no speed limiter, higher revs, firmer shift points, and better cooling. You can re tune your computer using either a computer chip or a handheld tuner. Diablo, SCT, and HyperTech all make great products. I have a 4 position chip and I’m quite happy with it. I have a 93 octane tune, an 87 octane tune, an 87 gas mileage tune, and the stock program on mine. Tuners are the more expensive option, but you can download tunes through email and burn them to your car’s computer instead of having to send a chip back for a re-tune.

Underdrive Pulleys
Others may say otherwise but on my car it seemed like one of the more beneficial boltons Ive done. They will increase hp and tq throughout the RPM range, not just at the top like exhaust or a cold air. They also give better gas mileage. Kind of a counter to gears, they increase by about 1-3mpg. People say they have charging problems on high end systems due to their alternators not making a big enough charge. Theres a solution for you audiophiles. Alternator Overdrive pulleys!! They increase your charging! Or you could simply pick up a bigger alternator from jegs.com, cjponyparts.com, or ebay!

Exhaust System
This is a step 2 if you’ve already finished your engine. Don’t get shorty headers, if you have a 94-98 our headers flow very nicely stock, almost identical to aftermarket shorties. Longtubes are beneficial on both v6 generations, but require you to lift the engine some to install. Straight/H/X pipes are all a matter of personal preference to sound. We have an even firing engine so we don’t benefit from equalizing the pressure in two exhaust pipes with an x or h pipe. I wouldn’t go Offroad Midpipe, the v6 doesn’t sound to nice without cats. It gets whiny above 3000. You can have a shop cut your Y pipe behind the converters and weld 2 straight pipes to a set of GT take-offs or opt to have a fully made set delivered to your door. I own MAC exhaust and it sounds nice. Bassani sounds amazing on our cars. Borla is a tad pricey but you pay for the best. Once again foollow Lesson 3 and buy the whole system at once. It’s just easier that way.

Cold Air Intakes
They’re basically for show for V6 Mustangs. You will get a small gain from one, but nothing too noticeable. Look on eBay for cheap ones, about 100 bucks I got mine after shipping. They don’t suffer in quality at all. As long as you get once that is smooth inside instead of ridged like your stock airbox your accomplishing the basic concept. Look for one with minimal bends, I have been told one 90 degree bend is like adding 3 feet of straight pipe to your intake. There is no difference in the Blue Filters compared to K&N. The blues are made by Holley, same people that make Nos.

MAF and Throttlebodys
It may be different on v8′s, but make no mistake, these things you should wait until almost LAST on your list. A new MAF is not needed until you turbo or supercharge your car. 94-98′s can benefit from a new throttle body so long as it is matched to your upper intake when you have it ported. Never buy a MAF or throttle body until you have done some internal engine mods. They are an almost worthless ‘bolt on” and can actually hurt your performance.

After you’ve gotten to this point, and your not broke or happy yet there are still plenty of things to do. Like maybe changing that stock looking appearance you’ve been ignoring for so long. Or maybe opt for a Nitrous kit? How about a turbo/supercharger kit? All these extra steps come with extra precautions, so when in doubt call a mechanic or parts store and ask them what they think you should do.

Filed Under: New Edge Mustang, S-197 Mustang, SN-95 Mustang
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:34 PM   #46
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

FYI: You can just link to the above articles

First article: How Do I Add Horsepower to My V6 Mustang? | AmericanMuscle.com Mustang Blog
Second article: V6 Mustang Modification Guide

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Old 08-10-2011, 08:10 PM   #47
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

thanks, new to this, got my pics uploaded, thanks again
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Old 08-13-2011, 04:51 PM   #48
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I say spend all the money it takes if you got it just to be different and still have a v6 with some power. I had a S10 V6 one time that would spank the V8 camaro and transam took some money to do it but the dumb founded look on a persons face when they found out they just got waxed by a V6 was worth every cent
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Old 08-13-2011, 05:51 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter903
I say spend all the money it takes if you got it just to be different and still have a v6 with some power. I had a S10 V6 one time that would spank the V8 camaro and transam took some money to do it but the dumb founded look on a persons face when they found out they just got waxed by a V6 was worth every cent
+100000000000
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:37 AM   #50
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Re: What mods can get 350+hp?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dolfin13 View Post
« First Look: Pre-painted Parts Launch 10.26.09
Mystery Gift Card Sweepstakes Delivers Big Prizes »
How Do I Add Horsepower to My V6 Mustang?
Published by Heather on October 20, 2009 in Mustang Q&A. ( View Comments )

Ford Mustang Q&A
V6Stang04 asked: “I have a stock V6 Ford Mustang, what can I do to increase it’s performance?”

As a V6 owner myself, I understand how frustrating it can be trying to modify a V6. While there is not as much aftermarket support for the V6s as there is for the V8s it is still out there and available. Supercharger and turbo kits are available for V6s now. But if you’re starting slow or don’t have quite that much to spend I would recommend a cold air intake, upgraded exhaust system and a tuner.

Cold Air Intake

Cold air intake systems by themselves can add 8-10 horsepower to your car and are relatively inexpensive. A K&N FIPK V6 Intake kit would be a great option. If you’re not looking to spend $200-$300 on a complete intake system, a K&N Drop-In Replacement Filter is a less-expensive alternative.


However, for a 05-09 ‘Stang I would recommend an intake/tuner combo kit. In most cases, S197 Mustangs will not run if a new CAI is installed without an aftermarket tune. The car will start but stall out immediately.

Tuner

A tuner reprograms your car’s computer, working with your modifications, to produce the most horsepower (or mpg’s, depending on the tune). Tuners can be tricky. If you’re unfamiliar with them you can check out our tuner tech article for help.

A custom tune is ideal. But know that tuning a car by yourself can be tricky if you’re not sure what to do. There is a small possibility of actually damaging the car if you run it with an improperly calibrated tune.

A custom tune designed to run with high octane gas (91+) will produce optimal results and add as much as 20 bhp to a bone-stock car. Octane is a vital factor: You can always run higher octane gas than you are tuned for but never lower octane!

Exhaust

V6 Mustang Exhaust

Choosing an exhaust can be confusing; we have a great exhaust tech article on exhaust systems/terminology if you’re wondering what an H-pipe is, or if you just need a refresher. I’ve heard that putting an aftermarket exhaust on a V6 will give it a high-pitched, raspy exhaust note, but in my experience this is not always true! There are many factors that determine the sound of your exhaust: a balance between intake and exhaust is crucial. If you have doubts about what setup is right for you then call our knowledgeable tech staff. They’ll make sure you get the sound and power you want.

Six cylinder Mustangs have a Y-pipe, which funnels exhaust gases from both banks into one tail-pipe. The most common “dual exhaust” out there is another Y-pipe that attaches after the catalytic converter and splits the stock mid-pipe into two tail-pipes. That’s fine if you just want the look of a dual exhaust. If, on the other hand, you want to squeeze the most ponies out of your pony, an X-pipe that allows you to use a GT cat-back exhaust is definitely the way to go. I’ve got a Pypes Stainless Steel X-Pipe on my 2004 V6 and, with a GT cat-back, I picked up another 15-20 bhp.

These mods will put you on the right track to building your V6 into a serious street machine. V8s will undoubtedly continue to dominate with their large displacement and infinite aftermarket options. But stay tuned as the V6 world is steadily growing and gaining momentum. This has not gone unnoticed here at AmericanMuscle and we look forward to seeing more modded V6s at our next annual show!

Read more: How Do I Add Horsepower to My V6 Mustang? | AmericanMuscle.com Mustang Blog



also go to supersixmotorsports.com, hope this helps

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

here is another, this should give u a good idea.


V6 Mustang Modification Guide
Posted by Brent Wilson on February 28, 2007 - 2 Comments
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This article is meant to give someone who is new to cars some info on where and what to get for their V6 Mustang to make it faster and more fun to drive. Check out RGR’s article in the V6 forum for more great info. If you have any questions, sign up on our V6 Mustang Forum and our members will be glad to help you.

Suggestion One
First decide if you really want to sink money into a V6 Mustang. We 6′ers have a lower potential horsepower platform than our v8 brethren. Basically meaning we get less gains for the mods we do.

Now this is of course not the case in non engine related matters. For example, adding 3.73 gears and a locking differential would greatly benefit both a v8 as well as a v6. Same goes for most suspension mods. Tuning the cars computer can greatly benefit both platforms, even more if you have an auto. The point is that a v6 is capable of making big horsepower…but only for a V6 Mustang. If you want to make 800 at the wheels then go buy a fox and play with that. The v6 is a reliable platform to build a 300-400 horsepower daily driver. Granted drastic improvements must be made to most of the suspension and drivetrain to get there, the stock block has been known to stand up to quite the beating.

Suggestion Two
Work from the inside out. From my experience, and I’m sure other would agree, the gains from basic bolt on upgrades to a v6 are slim to none. It makes much more sense from a financial outlook as well as a performance outlook to first build a good base to have fun with.

For the big spenders you can have your motor stroked to a 4.2 v6. This is done using the stock or forged, depending on application, crank out of a Ford 4.2 6cyl engine. You can buy stroker kits from RPM Mustangs, Super Six Motorsports and Morano V6 Racing. You can also pull a 4.2 out of a donor car and just use that. A used 4.2 rotating assembly can be had for rather cheap and once checked and machined, serve as a junkyard stroker kit! (You will have to use the pistons from a 4.2 as well)

For the medium spenders, I guess that’s what you call em, there are Head/Cam/Intake packages available from the same three as above. They utilize your stock bottom end, the block, crank, pistons and rods, and improve performance at the same time. The heads are given a full port and polish, new valves/springs, 3 angle valve job, and can be fully machined ready to bolt on for you. I also believe that all 3 sites mentioned will give you a custom speced cam if you order from them. This meaning they will talk to you about your goals for your car, and match a cam to your own personal interests. There are a ton of good cams out there and new grinds are being thought up each day I’m sure. The cam will increase the flow of air coming into and out of your cylinders by keeping valves open longer and opening them faster in some high-ramp lobe cases. It will change the sound of your exhaust note a ton and wake the car up. Lastly the intakes that you’ll get will be also ported and polished. The porter will take imperfections out of the runner walls by smoothing them out. All three mods complement each other very nicely. A nice cam will be held back by stock heads, while a nice set of heads will not be nearly as effective as if they had had a cam custom speced for them.

Suggestion Three
Point is, its easier to do it all at once. You don’t want to have to take an engine apart twice. After you pick which of the above routes you’d like to go or perhaps combine them and almost be done, it’s time to work on some suspension/drivetrain stuff.

Drivetrain

The stock V6 Mustang drivetrain is a dog. Well, maybe that is a little too drastic. The 5 speed versions are a bit more fun, as are the newer 99-04 due to the
better gearing, but they could use some help. First step in Drivetrain mods should be some new rear end gears and a locking differential.

Ring Gear and Pinion Set
The general rule of thumb is 4.10′s for an auto, and 3.55/3.73 for 5 speeds. In case your gear illiterate, the higher the number the lower the gear. Meaning 4.10 would give more acceleration than a 3.73 gear. You may be thinking, “I’ll take all I can get!”. Just know this, lower gearing will lead to increased cruising RPMs on the highway. This will affect gas mileage slightly (meaning 1-3mpg) at highway speeds. It also puts extra load on your car which is something to consider if it’s your daily driver. Cars that have stock computers will need to have their speed limiters raised and 99-04′s will need the gearing in the computer changed as well. Or they can pick something up called the SpeedCal which changes it for you. 94-98 will need a specific speedo gear for their gearing.

Trac-Lok Differential
You should also consider upgrading to a Traction Lock Differential. This will give you increased traction for your new gearing and allow you to do a 2 wheel burnout. No more one tire fryer. There is more than one type of Trac Lok, but thats where things can get complicated. If you’d like to explore your options check out Musclecarclub.com – Library – Tech – Differential for a very informative and technical article on differentials.

Gears and a new Tlok are one of the most beneficial mods you can do to your car. Relatively inexpensive if you can find an honest shop to install them, gears can be had for under 200 and the Traction Lok for under 300. Avoid used gears and used traction locks as gears develop a wear pattern after installed and traction locks take a lot of abuse. Also if you plan on going Forced Induction, even if you are automatic, you should go with no higher than 3.73′s. The extra power will be enough to move the taller gear. If you were to use a 4.10 gear in a super/turbo charged car it would bring the car up through the revs too fast and you will basically top out.

Aluminum Driveshaft
Aluminum driveshafts are a nice “finish it up” mod. They are not worth the price in my opinion.They will give slightly quicker revs and a minimal increase, but I doubt you would feel much. Maybe .1-.2 in the 1320.

Automatic Transmissions
The v6 automatic comes with an AODE in 1994-1997 Mustangs and a 4r70w 3 speed with Overdrive transmission for 1998-2004 Mustangs. The stock transmission suffers from soggy shifts and been known to overheat with abuse. You should invest in 2 inexpensive mods to help it.

Transmission Cooler

Currently your transmission fluid is cooled along side your coolant in your radiator. Don’t worry they are kept separate! By investing in a separate cooler you isolate the fluids heat and give better cooling to your transmission. The cooler can be mounted in a variety of places, but its mostly up to you. People like to mount them in the lower grills. They can be had for a little over 50 bucks at almost all auto stores. B&M is a trusted name.

Shift Improver Kit
Do not get a cheap one that alters shifts electronically. They put extra pressure in the valve body and can be bad for the transmission. Look for the ones that modify the separator plates between the valve body and main control/fluid pan. B&M as well as Trans-go make a good shift kit. Another option for the Do It Yourselfer would be to go to http://www.tccoa.org”>TCCOA and look in their transmission tech articles for Jerry’s Mod.You may also be interested in one of the hand held tuners below will allow a tuner to firm the shift points up.

Torque Converter
The next logical step in automatic transmission modding would be to replace the Torque Converter. Most would recommend a 2800-3200 stall converter for a stock-modded 6′er. A new converter will help your launch nearly as much as the gears and T-lok. It’s been said to be like Gears part 2! Replacing the converter means removing the tranny and some don’t have the resources or the knowledge to do such a task.

Manual Transmissions
Well buds, theres some stuff that even you can do to improve performace. I have an auto so not much experience, but there are aftermarket shifters as well as clutches/flywheels for sale to beef your ****. Shifters will help you nail 3rd gear and give you shorter throws, while clutches/flywheels will give greater grip for launch and less rotational mass meaning quicker revs.

Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum flywheels allow you to rev up faster while reducing drivetrain loss, resulting in more horsepower to your rear wheels, just by reducing the amount of rotating mass and force it takes to get the flywheel turning.

High-Performance Clutch Kit
Nothing sucks more than adding more horsepower to your Mustang and then getting to the track only to have your clutch fail after one or two passed. In order to prevent that you’ll need to get a high performance clutch. The most popular by far for Mustang owners is SPEC clutches. Check out the Stage 1 and Stage 2 to see which one you think is for you.

Short Shifters
The stock manual shifter leaves a lot to be desired. That’s why short throw shifters are all the crazy with Mustang enthusiasts. In fact, for some, it’s one of the first modifications they do to their Mustang. A short throw shifter is an excellent way to make driving your Mustang more enjoyable and comfortable. The Steeda Shifter below is one of the most popular shifters for the V6 Mustang.

Suspension
Suspension offers so much potential for almost any car is amazing. Almost anything can be turned into a corner carver with the right resources and knowledge. Our cars are great platforms for Auto cross racing. They benefit from better weight distribution and a lighter front end over a v8 model.

First step is usually springs, and do we remember Lesson 3? Do it all at once! So that means if your gonna do springs, do struts and shocks. You have to remove each to do the other.

Lowering Springs
Question what kind of drop your looking for. Ford C Springs are a nice choice for someone looking for a small drop(about .8 front 1.3 rear). Eibach springs are pricey, Ford C’s can be had for nearly $130 less than their Eibach or H&R cousins. Many recommend H&R if your looking for a bigger drop than 1.5″, although there are many satisfied Eibach customers out there. Just know that going over that 1.5″ mark will require Caster Camber Plates(“C/C Plates”) to correct your alignment.

C/C Plates
Highly recommended for anyone who has a lowered Mustang, Caster Camber Plates insures that your tires last as long as possible on your lowered Mustang.

Rear Sway Bar
Some lucky V6 Mustang owners have one from the factory. For those that weren’t fortunate enough to have one (go look!) this is a worthwhile investment as it greatly increases handling ability. No one likes the back end getting away from them in a tight turn.

Tubular Front Swaybar
Another great addition to suspension minded modders. Increase your V6 Mustang’s ability to maneuver through those turns by installing a Tubular Front Sway Bar. The Steeda below is top notch quality. 1994-1995 Mustang owners need to be sure to pick up end links while purchasing.

Shocks & Struts
Properly working shocks and struts are a must for a good launch at the drag strip or a good day on the auto cross track. They are also a must if you are lowering your car as your stock ones won’t last long with a decent drop. Think riding in the back seat of the Mustang sucks now? Just wait till your shocks and struts give out.

Other mods you can do to stiffen up your chassis are a Strut Tower Brace, Subframe connectors, jacking rails, and Matrix Braces (look for Kenny Brown). You can do Upper and Lower control Arms to give you better bite off launches and better handling through corners. You can pick up full replacement bushing kits and get rid of those tired worn out old ones and replace with stiffer performance ones. There are also lightweight K-Members, battery relocation Kits, Panhard Bars, coilover conversion kits and more!

Boltons
Ah finally the boltons! I’m going to go through from most beneficial to least on a STOCK engine. On engines with increased airflow due to a new top/bottom end my statements may not be true. I will clarify when I can.

The number one most beneficial bolt on? Why that’s a tuned computer.We talked about them briefly earlier but I can’t stress how important a good tune really is. It is what makes or breaks a well built car. Stock cars will benefit from increased timing, among better shift points, no speed limiter, higher revs, firmer shift points, and better cooling. You can re tune your computer using either a computer chip or a handheld tuner. Diablo, SCT, and HyperTech all make great products. I have a 4 position chip and I’m quite happy with it. I have a 93 octane tune, an 87 octane tune, an 87 gas mileage tune, and the stock program on mine. Tuners are the more expensive option, but you can download tunes through email and burn them to your car’s computer instead of having to send a chip back for a re-tune.

Underdrive Pulleys
Others may say otherwise but on my car it seemed like one of the more beneficial boltons Ive done. They will increase hp and tq throughout the RPM range, not just at the top like exhaust or a cold air. They also give better gas mileage. Kind of a counter to gears, they increase by about 1-3mpg. People say they have charging problems on high end systems due to their alternators not making a big enough charge. Theres a solution for you audiophiles. Alternator Overdrive pulleys!! They increase your charging! Or you could simply pick up a bigger alternator from jegs.com, cjponyparts.com, or ebay!

Exhaust System
This is a step 2 if you’ve already finished your engine. Don’t get shorty headers, if you have a 94-98 our headers flow very nicely stock, almost identical to aftermarket shorties. Longtubes are beneficial on both v6 generations, but require you to lift the engine some to install. Straight/H/X pipes are all a matter of personal preference to sound. We have an even firing engine so we don’t benefit from equalizing the pressure in two exhaust pipes with an x or h pipe. I wouldn’t go Offroad Midpipe, the v6 doesn’t sound to nice without cats. It gets whiny above 3000. You can have a shop cut your Y pipe behind the converters and weld 2 straight pipes to a set of GT take-offs or opt to have a fully made set delivered to your door. I own MAC exhaust and it sounds nice. Bassani sounds amazing on our cars. Borla is a tad pricey but you pay for the best. Once again foollow Lesson 3 and buy the whole system at once. It’s just easier that way.

Cold Air Intakes
They’re basically for show for V6 Mustangs. You will get a small gain from one, but nothing too noticeable. Look on eBay for cheap ones, about 100 bucks I got mine after shipping. They don’t suffer in quality at all. As long as you get once that is smooth inside instead of ridged like your stock airbox your accomplishing the basic concept. Look for one with minimal bends, I have been told one 90 degree bend is like adding 3 feet of straight pipe to your intake. There is no difference in the Blue Filters compared to K&N. The blues are made by Holley, same people that make Nos.

MAF and Throttlebodys
It may be different on v8′s, but make no mistake, these things you should wait until almost LAST on your list. A new MAF is not needed until you turbo or supercharge your car. 94-98′s can benefit from a new throttle body so long as it is matched to your upper intake when you have it ported. Never buy a MAF or throttle body until you have done some internal engine mods. They are an almost worthless ‘bolt on” and can actually hurt your performance.

After you’ve gotten to this point, and your not broke or happy yet there are still plenty of things to do. Like maybe changing that stock looking appearance you’ve been ignoring for so long. Or maybe opt for a Nitrous kit? How about a turbo/supercharger kit? All these extra steps come with extra precautions, so when in doubt call a mechanic or parts store and ask them what they think you should do.

Filed Under: New Edge Mustang, S-197 Mustang, SN-95 Mustang
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Wtroeger19
Thanks that was actually very informative and helpful. I now realize what I have been doing wrong. Haha
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Isaac1288 Im
Really helpful
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That was a LOT, but I enjoyed reading all of it,
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:39 PM   #51
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I say spend all the money it takes if you got it just to be different and still have a v6 with some power. I had a S10 V6 one time that would spank the V8 camaro and transam took some money to do it but the dumb founded look on a persons face when they found out they just got waxed by a V6 was worth every cent
That'd be wonderful!
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:41 PM   #52
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LS swap with a cam
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:53 PM   #53
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I've got an 08 V6 auto and put down 210rwhp with an airaid intake, Bama tune, Pypes shorty headers, mid-muffler catback, accel coil pack, Taylor 8mm wires and platinum plugs...gona add long tubes, o/r prochamber and a BBK 70mm throttle body with a custom adapter plate to hopefully get another 20-30rwhp which will put me about 270-280 bhp so you can get close to 300bp but you'll never get there with just bolt ons
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:59 PM   #54
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What mods can get 350+hp?

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I've got an 08 V6 auto and put down 210rwhp with an airaid intake, Bama tune, Pypes shorty headers, mid-muffler catback, accel coil pack, Taylor 8mm wires and platinum plugs...gona add long tubes, o/r prochamber and a BBK 70mm throttle body with a custom adapter plate to hopefully get another 20-30rwhp which will put me about 270-280 bhp so you can get close to 300bp but you'll never get there with just bolt ons

If you go by the 20% loss rule for autos your 210whp is about 260bhp. And you won't get another 20-30 with longtubes, and a throttle body
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:04 PM   #55
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I'm pretty sure i can get 20hp with long tubes, an o/r prochamber and a throttle body
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:19 PM   #56
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Hey if you can, i'll gladly say that I was wrong. But even newer V8 cars which respond pretty well to mods don't quite pick up that much just from those simple mods.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:21 PM   #57
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I mean I just highly doubt I'll pick up only 10hp I mean long tubes alone will net 15-30rwhp depending on a setup and the throttle in conjunction with my other mods will get about 5-10hp
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:00 PM   #58
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LS swap with a cam
I like this guy.

Although, that would be 400+ rwhp.
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:24 PM   #59
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What mods can get 350+hp?

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I mean I just highly doubt I'll pick up only 10hp I mean long tubes alone will net 15-30rwhp depending on a setup and the throttle in conjunction with my other mods will get about 5-10hp

There isn't even a V8 model that can get that much from just adding longtubes on top of your other mods. Remember. The more you do, the less and less you will get from each mod. You could most likely get 10-15, but I think 20-30 is a reach.
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Old 05-06-2014, 11:20 PM   #60
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Realistically our cars yield very little gains. Regardless of mod horsepower claims. Just installed my JLT cold air intake. Had my car tuned before, and retuned after the intake, felt very minimal gains. Most of the power comes from the tune. Man I hate our engines lol now all we can do is make it sound and look good...
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Old 05-07-2014, 01:14 AM   #61
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Does anyone have a 05-09 4.0L v6 and have 350hp? Or even 300+hp? If you do what mods did you use to get it. Iv been trying to research everywhere and I can't find out how I can achieve this goal.
In plain simple English, your wasting your time and lots of money. You will never get the horsepower you want.

Save up and sell it and buy a V8. Depending on which year, you will have 405 or 420 horsepower to work with.

I have a 2013 V6. To date, I have over $7,700 in my car. That includes:
Springs, Shocks, Struts, Springs, Adj. Pan Hard Bar, Adj. Upper Control Arms, Adj. Lower Control Arms, Aluminum Driveshaft, Bama Tune, BBK Catted X-Pipes, BBK Ceramic Headers, Ford Racing Sport Axle-Back Exhaust, Airaid CAI, Upgraded Drilled and Cross Cut Rotors, Ceramic Pads. Getting ready to order 18" Chrome Bullitts or 18" Chrome 2010 OE Style Wheels, Both Staggered.

Then it will be time to start on the engine. God help anyone who runs into my car.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:17 PM   #62
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How are you gona tell him to buy a V8 when you've spent so much on your V6??
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:28 PM   #63
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What you listed does not add up to 7k. And your 405hp or 420hp makes no sense.

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Old 05-07-2014, 09:29 PM   #64
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What you listed does not add up to 7k. And your 405hp or 420hp makes no sense.

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Neither does "cross cut rotors"
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:35 PM   #65
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He means cross drilled I imagine lol
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:36 PM   #66
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I'd agree but he said drilled right before that
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:53 PM   #67
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How are you gona tell him to buy a V8 when you've spent so much on your V6??
I bought my V6 for driving around town or putting on the cruise to go somewhere. I am not trying to build up to tons of horsepower. It will never be used on the strip or track by me.

I want a car that looks good and has a little get up and go. I am building a cruising car. Most of the upgrades I have would have been on a V8.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:55 PM   #68
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What you listed does not add up to 7k. And your 405hp or 420hp makes no sense.

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Parts and Labor.

405 or 420 if he was working with a V8.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:59 PM   #69
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He means cross drilled I imagine lol
Cross Drilled and Slotted. My Bad.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:20 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by NewMtang View Post
Parts and Labor.

405 or 420 if he was working with a V8.
What mustang is 405?

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