Cant shift under high load. - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2005-2010 V6 Mustang



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 09-03-2013, 06:14 PM   #1
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
Cant shift under high load.

Hey guys I'm having an issue shifting my manual 2005 mustang V6 (90,000 miles) anywhere over 3000 rpm. Under that it shifts perfect, but per that and it's like it just hits a wall, there is no grinding, it's just like there's a gate blocking my syncros from engaging each other or maybe my shifter and tranny are out of alignment at that rpm? It will shift once the rpms go down though, but that means waiting like 3 seconds between shifts which nullifies the initial reason for gassing it in the first place.

I did all of the clutch tests, and the clutch seems fine.

Any ideas what might cause this?

I was thinking a bad tranny crossmember might cause the mis-alignment, but its just a guess so I figured I'd come ask you guys, since you've all been very helpful in the past.
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-03-2013, 07:35 PM   #2
Registered Member
Regular
 
Stratstang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Oshawa
Region: Canada
Posts: 140
I haven't experienced this but a quick google search points to the clutch. I'd suggest a once over by a qualified tech. You could try adjusting the clutch by pulling back on the pedal. I believe the owner's manual covers it. I did it and it helped my low rpm shifts into 2nd, which were very notchy before.
Stratstang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 04:39 AM   #3
Registered Member
Regular
 
Knooper3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brasov
Region: Europe
Posts: 173
is it hard to bring it from gear to neutral or from neutral to gear?
Knooper3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 09-04-2013, 07:28 AM   #4
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
Neutral to gear.

And I haven't been able to pull back on the pedal, it doesn't move when I do. I looked at it down there and I didn't even see a quadrant on it. I'll take a picture later
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 09:37 AM   #5
Registered Member
Regular
 
Knooper3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brasov
Region: Europe
Posts: 173
Quote:
Originally Posted by Combatman View Post
Neutral to gear.

And I haven't been able to pull back on the pedal, it doesn't move when I do. I looked at it down there and I didn't even see a quadrant on it. I'll take a picture later
yeah, this sounds like the clutch, and 90000 miles isn't early for a clutch to break. from time to time your clutch pedal may even get "stuck to the floor" when you use it a lot
Knooper3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 10:11 AM   #6
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
That's the thing though, I've never it get stuck.
I've floored it in 5th at 25mph and it didn't slip, I dropped it at a stop into 5th and it didn't slip. It releases really high which from what I understand is a sign of a good clutch. I just got it 4000 miles ago, so it's possible they just replaced the clutch.
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 11:46 AM   #7
Registered Member
Regular
 
Knooper3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Brasov
Region: Europe
Posts: 173
Quote:
Originally Posted by Combatman View Post
That's the thing though, I've never it get stuck.
I've floored it in 5th at 25mph and it didn't slip, I dropped it at a stop into 5th and it didn't slip. It releases really high which from what I understand is a sign of a good clutch. I just got it 4000 miles ago, so it's possible they just replaced the clutch.
The one that i'm talking about didn't slip either the only two sings were sometimes under high stress the pedal would get stuck pressed and when starting from stopped position and taking my foot off the clutch the car would shake (enter more brutally into gear). of course, in the end only a mechanic can tell you if it's the clutch or the gearbox or any transmission fluid somewhere
Knooper3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 11:12 PM   #8
Registered Member
Regular
 
kf4myo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lehigh Acres
Region: Florida
Posts: 74
How far down do you have to push the clutch to get it to disengage? It could be your clutch is not releasing all the way.
kf4myo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 07:11 AM   #9
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
Well in normal driving I can usually get it to shift half way down, but I pretty much have to floor when I'm driving it hard.
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 08:23 PM   #10
Registered Member
Regular
 
kf4myo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lehigh Acres
Region: Florida
Posts: 74
I found this on Late Model Restoration's site. Maybe it will help you some.

Ensure the clutch engagement/disengagement point is at or slightly above the midway point in clutch pedal travel. If the engagement/disengagement point is at the bottom of the pedal travel, the pressure plate never fully disengages & doesn't allow the disc to fully release from the flywheel. Installation of an adjustable clutch cable & aluminum quadrant may be necessary on a 1979-2004 Mustang. We recommend one of these setups for all new clutch installations.
If using a factory hydraulic release bearing in 2005-2012 Mustang, you'll likely not experience a problem If using an aftermarket unit, be sure to follow the adjustment instructions to the letter.
A leaky hydraulic release bearing will be easy to spot, simply repair the leak. Be sure to bleed 2005-2012 Mustang release bearings as per the service manual for OE applications & as per manufacturer recommendations for aftermarket units.
If your clutch fork appears suspect upon disassembly, it is cheap insurance to go ahead & replace it.
If your clutch fork pivot stud appears suspect upon disassembly, it is cheap insurance to go ahead & replace it.
We always recommend replacing the pilot bearing when replacing the clutch. Doing so will ensure the transmission input shaft moves freely. If you are confident that your existing pilot bearing is still serviceable, a conservative daub of grease always helps.
*If your transmission was already experiencing these issues before the clutch install, you may have internal transmission damage such as bent or broken shift forks or worn synchronizer rings. An aftermarket shifter with improperly adjusted shift stops will also cause you to not be able to shift into gear.
kf4myo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 10:07 PM   #11
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
Well I guess it engages at about half when I'm taking off from a stop and switching gears
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2013, 07:36 AM   #12
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Sioux Falls
Region: South Dakota
Posts: 72
Well I guess it engages at about half when I'm taking off from a stop and switching gears
Combatman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > 2005-2010 V6 Mustang

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


» Like Us On Facebook



09:43 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.