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Old 12-29-2014, 09:37 AM   #1
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SR performance bump steer kit

Hey I was looking into ordering the SR bump steer kit from american muscle. I figured it would be a good idea since I already have the lowering springs that I'm putting in too in the spring. I was just wondering what's everyone's opinion on these? Does is seem worth it? They're normally 170$ but they have a mod blow out sale on american muscle for 94$ so I couldn't help my self lol


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Old 12-29-2014, 09:38 AM   #2
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:47 AM   #3
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They also have an extra 10% off on clearance stuff. Can't beat the price. I would. Also recommend the inner tie rods.
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:07 AM   #4
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OP-They're definitely a solid set. I've ran them on my '08 Bullitt and they definitely helped! I'm not sure what the roads are like in your neck of the woods but PA's aren't that great at all! It was night and day and a must if you're going to be doing a little suspension overhaul. Let me know if you have any questions and if you don't have our Forums Discount code shoot me a PM and I'll get you set up today!

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Old 12-29-2014, 10:50 AM   #5
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Hey Alex I don't have a discount code ?
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:01 AM   #6
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Hey Alex I don't have a discount code ?
Shoot me a PM and I'll get you set up right now!

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Old 12-29-2014, 02:03 PM   #7
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Realize that the point of a bumpsteer kit is to properly set the bumpsteer, not just bolt a kit on.
You will need a proper bumpsteer gauge and plenty of time and patience as well as a good understanding of what you are trying to do, otherwise the only possible outcome is making the bumpsteer worse. All those different size shims are there for a reason. If anybody gives a rip I can line out how it's done. I also doubt that anyone but a serious racer is going to bother because it is a lot of time and effort to get it right, especially on a strut car, so I'm not going to bother typing it all up unless someone is serious about doing it.
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:03 PM   #8
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Fab man I would be serious about this I do plan on taking the car to the track to auto cross it and I was told this is a good option especially since I'm lowering it and pretty much redoing the whole suspension


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Old 12-29-2014, 11:25 PM   #9
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Well I ordered it today before the sale ended can't wait for it go get here and I'm not too worried about the inner tie rods there are all good, but I'm putting in all new eibach dampers and lowering springs and along with adjustable rear upper and lower control arms and camber plates so it should be an exciting spring putting all this stuff in im just alil nervous about setting up the bump steer kit


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Old 12-29-2014, 11:50 PM   #10
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Well I ordered it today before the sale ended can't wait for it go get here and I'm not too worried about the inner tie rods there are all good, but I'm putting in all new eibach dampers and lowering springs and along with adjustable rear upper and lower control arms and camber plates so it should be an exciting spring putting all this stuff in im just alil nervous about setting up the bump steer kit


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Like I said, if it is not set correctly with a proper bump steer gauge, bump steer can only be worse as a magic guess is just too much to ask for.

Look at all the shims that come in the kit....some big, some small, some very tiny. Do you know exactly what combination of shims is the perfect set for your car? Nope, and no one else does either no matter what they say unless it is carefully measured and set.

Its a lot like throwing in a new cam but not bothering to dial it in or even check the timing marks...sure, it may be a great cam, but unless it is installed correctly it can only HURT performance......are you picking up what I'm putting down?
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:55 PM   #11
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Here ya go...this is the one to get. I set up hundreds of stock cars with a gauge like this. Don't get the kind with 2 indicators...way to much work. This one is way easier to use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-79005/overview/
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Old 12-30-2014, 01:39 AM   #12
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Okay, here is how it's done:
install all your suspension parts but do not install the bump steer kit. Set the camber, caster and toe to where you want it. (This is a whole other subject)
Drive the car around and let the suspension settle. Springs and shocks and bushings all need to settle in. Also, only tighten up control arm bolts when the car is at ride height, NOT with the suspension hanging. This keeps from preloading the suspension with twisted bushings that may later settle and possibly tear down the road. If they are spherical bearing ends it doesn't matter, but rubber or poly bushings should always be done this way.

Once the car is all settled in, carefully measure the ride height.

On a coil over car (a real coil over car-not a strut car with a coil over a strut) you measure from shock eye to shock eye. Since a strut car doesn't have this you will have to pick a place to measure from PERFECTLY, no close enough or guesses are acceptable here or anywhere in the process. Do it right or don't do it at all.

Strut cars suck *** so this is going to be way harder than it needs to be.

Here I am about 500 years ago setting the bump steer on a coil over car with the coil over removed. Notice the dial indicator and the level on the lower control arm.
Also notice how much room there is to work.



Same car after painting and several track records (for reference)





Okay now you have a precise measurement for your ride height ( you may have to go from the exact center of the spindle nut to the fender well and mark it for accuracy because you will be refferring to this measurement later)

Jack up the car, ideally on 4 jack stands with the car perfectly level.
Take off the front wheels and remove the front springs.
Yes you have to do it this way.

Put the strut back together and use a jack to raise the lower control arm back up to where your measurement said "This is ride height".

Center the rack, not the wheel-the rack. Adjust from this point always.
Carefully measure the length of the stock tie rod from center to center. On a stock rack you may have to mark a spot on the tie rod with a tie wrap or something and measure out to the center off the ball.
Everything pivots from here so this is what matters.

**This part is optional, but will save you tons of time in the long run.
Cut apart one stock outer tie rod end housing with an abrasive wheel. Don't wreck the stud or ball, this is the part that you want.
Put the newly freed tie rod shank and ball back into the steering arm and seat it with the nut. VERY CAREFULLY measure from the bottom of the steering arm to the center of the ball. Mark this down, it matters.

Now take that measurement and stack the exact amount of spacers on the bump kit so that center of the ball of the spherical rod end to the bottom of the steering arm is exactly the same as the stock ball/shank. This will get you very close to stock and save a ton of time-but feel free to do it the hard way if you want and skip this step, but you'll thank me later if you do it. Otherwise, just throw any amount of shims on there and guess. You'll see why this is important later....but hey, whatever.


Install the bump steer kit with that precise shim stack and at the same length as the stock tie rod. Adjust the length so it is the same as the stock setup. Your front wheel's should point perfectly straight ahead.
Lock the steering column so the wheel can't move. Make sure its straight ahead when you are done.

Now install the bump gauge. Set it up so that you can check the bump steer for at least 2" of bump and 1" of rebound. This is how we do oval track cars. These big heavy street cars on a road race track may need more travel but this is the method you need to follow. Twice the bump and half the rebound.

Now that you have the gauge set up and everything is set at ride height, mark where the indicator touches the aluminum plate with a sharpie.
THIS IS YOUR BASELINE!

(carb/brake cleaner or lacquer thinner or acetone removes sharpie like magic-have some on hand)

Now use a scale or ruler to accurately mark bump and rebound travel on the plate in 1/2" increments. You are creating a map here. This map is everything.

Zero the gauge.

Slowly jack the suspension up to the 1/2" bump mark. Read the gauge and mark it down. Go another half inch and mark it down and so-forth for 2 inches.
Go back to ride height and zero the gauge. Now go down and do the same marking it on your paper.

You are making a map.

You will see something like 0, +120 +250, + 375, +675 toe change or whatever.
You are mapping the toe change curve.

Use + for toe out and - for toe in. Your numbers will be different, but you get the idea...*****s moving either in or out and you need to know which way, how much, and where its doing it.

Add or remove shims to change this curve. Check it again from 0 to 2" bump. Mark it down and compare to the last settings.
Notice the difference. Is it better or worse? You are trying to hit zero. You may not get there but you want to be as close as possible.
(Its easier if you only do bump first and then dial the rebound settings after the bump is perfect)


Repeat this process over and over and over until you have as close to zero as possible. Any bump steer left in the suspension should be in the + direction...never in-always out. Zero toe change on road race/autocross cars is optimum.

Now do the rebound and see what happens. Adjust as necessary.

By now you have a nice map of various toe changes and should have a real grasp of how a tiny adjustment can make a huge difference in toe change.

Repeat on the other side.

When done, Set the total toe in on the car on an alignment rack or with a trammel bar if you have one.

Here is something that most guys don't realize:
When you change the caster (not camber) it will raise and lower the steering arm slightly and your bump will be off so you'll need to check it again.
It's best to set the camber/caster/toe before this process and reset the toe when finished.

Let me know how this goes for you.
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Old 12-30-2014, 04:34 AM   #13
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Iv tried to set up with the bump steer gauge and it was a real pita. Click image for larger version

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(Fyi for what it looks like)

But anyways my thought was the whole idea for this is to get the tie rod to lower control arm angle back to factory spec right? So if you were to take a measurement of the angle of the lower control arm and the tie rod and get the difference between the too couldn't you just use the angle to set up the bump steer kit?


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:25 AM   #14
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Iv tried to set up with the bump steer gauge and it was a real pita. Attachment 172625
(Fyi for what it looks like)

But anyways my thought was the whole idea for this is to get the tie rod to lower control arm angle back to factory spec right? So if you were to take a measurement of the angle of the lower control arm and the tie rod and get the difference between the too couldn't you just use the angle to set up the bump steer kit?


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
The delta between the tie rod and control arm doesn't change. They both move together when the car is lowered, it's just amplified when the car is lowered. Yes they need to be of a similar angle but that's only part of the story.
The tie rod and control arm are not exactly the same length so there would still be an unpredictable amount of bump present.
The only way to to it is with the gauge. Yes its a major PITA with this style car which is why I said only a hard core racer will bother. Either do it correctly or don't do it at all. Most guys just throw the kit on because it looks cool and never bother to set it correctly because they just don't understand what's actually going on; F'ing themselves in the process.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:04 PM   #15
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Hmmmm I see well at least i got mine set up right i think πŸ˜„


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Old 12-30-2014, 02:23 PM   #16
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Hmmmm I see well at least i got mine set up right i think πŸ˜„


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Old 12-30-2014, 02:42 PM   #17
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Hmmmm I see well at least i got mine set up right i think ν ½νΈ„


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Did you read zero or close to zero toe change on the gauge?
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:53 PM   #18
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Yes I did and Iv driven it and it doesn't steer over bumps


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Old 12-30-2014, 02:57 PM   #19
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Yes I did and Iv driven it and it doesn't steer over bumps


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
well, we are talking about minute amounts.
If you could actually feel it, it would have to be horrible.
Trust the gauge, other wise the chances of it being really right are not in your favor.
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Old 12-30-2014, 03:02 PM   #20
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Yes I did and Iv driven it and it doesn't steer over bumps


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
That's a little like saying:
"I'm not late because I didn't look at my watch. Besides, I don't FEEL late".

LOL.
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Old 12-30-2014, 03:07 PM   #21
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Yes I did and Iv driven it and it doesn't steer over bumps


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
Ah, I see you said you did do it proper and the gauge read zero....
Then you know what a PITA it is to do it right.
You are one of the few who will actually go through the headache it is to do it correctly....and it's worth it.
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Old 12-30-2014, 06:33 PM   #22
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SR performance bump steer kit

Yeah it took me a while to figure it out at first but the second side went pretty easy


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Old 12-31-2014, 12:34 PM   #23
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So honestly would you say it's worth installing if it's something I plan on taking to the track for some fun lol


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Old 12-31-2014, 01:14 PM   #24
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So honestly would you say it's worth installing if it's something I plan on taking to the track for some fun lol


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I haven't bothered to do mine and probably wont...it's just too much F'ing around on these cars to do it properly for an occasional romp at the track.
But then, I'm old and tired of working on ***** so maybe you young guys are willing to do the labor.
I will stress again though, either go through the pains of doing carefully and correctly or don't do it at all.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:41 PM   #25
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Yes I did and Iv driven it and it doesn't steer over bumps


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
I appologize for not addressing this sooner;

It's not just about bumps, it's about "Roll Steer".
Roll Steer is present in both front and rear suspension and needs to be eliminated or reduced to a manageable amount.
It can also be used as a tuning tool. But once again, you need to know where you are and go from there.

Roll steer is just as it implies; as the body rolls in a turn the wheels either front or rear (or both) will steer either in or out as the suspension travels.
This can be very unsettling. It can make the car understeer or oversteer or "Dart" in the corners and over bumps.
You can even have over steer in the rear and understeer in the front at the same time. Cars with a lot of this can be very spooky to drive.

The more suspension travel you have (ie: softer springs) the more you experience. Rear roll steer is more dramatic and easier to check and adjust on solid axle cars. (independent rears are more complicated) At ride height, measure the rear control arm pivot to the ground on both the front and rear of the arm. They should be the same to minimize roll steer. (Control arms perfectly flat) To add roll over steer, point the control arms up to the front and roll understeer point them down to the front.
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:03 PM   #26
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I appologize for not addressing this sooner;

It's not just about bumps, it's about "Roll Steer".
Roll Steer is present in both front and rear suspension and needs to be eliminated or reduced to a manageable amount.
It can also be used as a tuning tool. But once again, you need to know where you are and go from there.

Roll steer is just as it implies; as the body rolls in a turn the wheels either front or rear (or both) will steer either in or out as the suspension travels.
This can be very unsettling. It can make the car understeer or oversteer or "Dart" in the corners and over bumps.
You can even have over steer in the rear and understeer in the front at the same time. Cars with a lot of this can be very spooky to drive.

The more suspension travel you have (ie: softer springs) the more you experience. Rear roll steer is more dramatic and easier to check and adjust on solid axle cars. (independent rears are more complicated) At ride height, measure the rear control arm pivot to the ground on both the front and rear of the arm. They should be the same to minimize roll steer. (Control arms perfectly flat) To add roll over steer, point the control arms up to the front and roll understeer point them down to the front.

I have actually addressed this too by lowering my upper control about and inch so she handles real nice through all the corners With no under/over steering problems! Its all good info tho thanks for sharing it!


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Old 12-31-2014, 03:18 PM   #27
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I have actually addressed this too by lowering my upper control about and inch so she handles real nice through all the corners With no under/over steering problems! Its all good info tho thanks for sharing it!


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
I should have specified lower control arms.
The upper determines the anti squat percentage.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:39 PM   #28
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Well on the classics the have a problem with the uppers, the modification is called a shelby drop it corrects the pour geometry from the factory. Sense its easier to drill two holes than to fab up a LCA bracket this video explains it pretty well

http://youtu.be/gVugDqaUW9M


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Old 12-31-2014, 03:41 PM   #29
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And sorry OP for thread jacking haha


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Old 12-31-2014, 04:08 PM   #30
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Well on the classics the have a problem with the uppers, the modification is called a shelby drop it corrects the pour geometry from the factory. Sense its easier to drill two holes than to fab up a LCA bracket this video explains it pretty well

http://youtu.be/gVugDqaUW9M


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
I was talking about the rear lower control arms...that is a great video though.
When he is showing the mod what he doesn't tell you is it's also changing the roll center,
but thats a story for another day.
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Old 12-31-2014, 06:51 PM   #31
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I was talking about the rear lower control arms...that is a great video though.
When he is showing the mod what he doesn't tell you is it's also changing the roll center,
but thats a story for another day.

Ha ohhh I see


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