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Old 04-24-2015, 06:07 AM   #1
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Cold Engine Oil Change

I was considering changing oil this morning early without starting engine. I always change my own oil and always seem to do it after the car has been driven fairly recently (warm engine) and then I let it cool a little. I have read several posts/debates on this and most seem to think it does not matter much, cool oil will just drain slower. Others feel that sludge does not move when cool so it is important to warm engine first. I tend to agree with that, so I plan to at least start engine for a few minutes, to warm the oil a little before I change the oil. Or, does anyone just drain it cold and wait a little longer?
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Old 04-24-2015, 06:19 AM   #2
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shouldn't be any sludge if you change it regularly. and i always feel like when its cold, its thicker, and more of it sticks to the inside of the engine. where as if its hot/warm, it all slides off and falls out. Even though it takes longer, I've always felt that more of the oil actually comes out when its hot.
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:54 PM   #3
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Cold Engine Oil Change

Doing an oil change with warm oil is better I believe. When the oil heats up it tends to thin out, so it is easily circulated through the engine. It becomes more liquid in a sense, that's why it drains quicker. In my opinion you will get out more of the old oil because it will be in its thinner more liquidity stage. So more will tend to drain out, but that's my opinion!


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Old 04-24-2015, 01:18 PM   #4
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With multi-weight oils, they are actually thinner, or less viscous, when the engine is cold.
For example, on 5w20 oil, 5 is the weight of the oil when it is cold, and 20 is the weight when warm.
Multi-weight oil has less viscosity when it is cold so that it can flow through a cold engine more easily.
As far as changing the oil on a warm or cold engine, I always like to do it after the vehicle has been driven within the last couple of hours so that any contaminants and moisture are, hopefully, suspended in the oil, rather than clinging to the inside of the engine.
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Old 04-24-2015, 01:50 PM   #5
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I do it warm but except for convenience unless you waited too long to change I doubt it matters.
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:31 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
With multi-weight oils, they are actually thinner, or less viscous, when the engine is cold.
For example, on 5w20 oil, 5 is the weight of the oil when it is cold, and 20 is the weight when warm.
.

This statement is wrong, 5w is the winter rating of the oil, At below freezing temps, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil ( it will not thicken ). The 20 is the summer rating of the oil, at temps above 300 degs ) The oil will act like a 20 weight oil (it will not thin out)
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:36 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Gil_T2 View Post
This statement is wrong, 5w is the winter rating of the oil, At below freezing temps, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil ( it will not thicken ). The 20 is the summer rating of the oil, at temps above 300 degs ) The oil will act like a 20 weight oil (it will not thin out)
You just said the same thing as him...
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:07 PM   #8
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You just said the same thing as him...
Negatory. Its a confusing topic. But hes almost right. Idk about the temps he used exactly, (could be right)

But yes, 5 weight and 30 weight thicken differently at different temps (as well as thin).

5w30 has polymers to ACT as a 5 weight would in cold temps (ambient temp all the way to below freezing)

As it heats, the polymers change and ACT as a 30 weight oil would (@200 degrees, its right at its sweet spot for our engines)


Now they both may in fact be on to the same thing, but a lot of people get confused and think 5w30 means nothing on a hot florida/texas/arizona day since it doesnt freeze. Not true. Straight 30 is too rough on an engine at start up. It needs to thin like a 5 weight at ambient temp. Still not as thin as 30w @ 200 degrees. But better than 30w @ 0 thru 90 degrees.

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Old 04-24-2015, 07:10 PM   #9
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I'm still seeing the same thing said multiple times lol
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:14 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by natestang07 View Post
I'm still seeing the same thing said multiple times lol
You know what, upon rereading... your right.

Disregard. Im retarded.

Unless you wanna re explain it for round 4?

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Old 04-24-2015, 07:15 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by fenixignition View Post
Negatory. Its a confusing topic. But hes almost right. Idk about the temps he used exactly, (could be right)

But yes, 5 weight and 30 weight thicken differently at different temps (as well as thin).

5w30 has polymers to ACT as a 5 weight would in cold temps (ambient temp all the way to below freezing)

As it heats, the polymers change and ACT as a 30 weight oil would (@200 degrees, its right at its sweet spot for our engines)


Now they both may in fact be on to the same thing, but a lot of people get confused and think 5w30 means nothing on a hot florida/texas/arizona day since it doesnt freeze. Not true. Straight 30 is too rough on an engine at start up. It needs to thin like a 5 weight at ambient temp. Still not as thin as 30w @ 200 degrees. But better than 30w @ 0 thru 90 degrees.

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This is actually interesting, I am learning something new about oil!


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Old 04-24-2015, 07:21 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by JokerS197 View Post
This is actually interesting, I am learning something new about oil!


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Ive heard people get it wrong left and right. Usually people think 5w30 means it thins when cold and thick when hot because of the numbers. But the grades of oil have different scales to follow. So at first it can be confusing. But once you visualize it, it makes sense.

I also hear someone who thought it meant 5w when hot and 30 when cold. I cant remember what grade oil he thought he could substitute it for, but inremember thinking it would blow his engine.

And ive seen plenty people put 20w50 diesel oil in their leaky 4 banger instead of fixing a valve cover gasket.

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Old 04-24-2015, 07:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fenixignition View Post
Ive heard people get it wrong left and right. Usually people think 5w30 means it thins when cold and thick when hot because of the numbers. But the grades of oil have different scales to follow. So at first it can be confusing. But once you visualize it, it makes sense.

I also hear someone who thought it meant 5w when hot and 30 when cold. I cant remember what grade oil he thought he could substitute it for, but inremember thinking it would blow his engine.

And ive seen plenty people put 20w50 diesel oil in their leaky 4 banger instead of fixing a valve cover gasket.

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So this question might sound dumb but is there a major difference between full synthetic and high mile oil? When I went to Walmart a couple of months ago to get oil, I was just going to pick up full synthetic. Then I saw there was a separate container of oil say high mile engines. I thought that they generally use full synthetic since it is easier on the cylinders. Is there much of a difference? Would it be better to use high mile oil?


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Old 04-24-2015, 07:41 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Gil_T2 View Post
This statement is wrong, 5w is the winter rating of the oil, At below freezing temps, the oil will act like a 5 weight oil ( it will not thicken ). The 20 is the summer rating of the oil, at temps above 300 degs ) The oil will act like a 20 weight oil (it will not thin out)
I am NEVER wrong!

Well, rarely.
Ok. Sometimes I am wrong... Not in this case though!
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:46 PM   #15
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So this question might sound dumb but is there a major difference between full synthetic and high mile oil? When I went to Walmart a couple of months ago to get oil, I was just going to pick up full synthetic. Then I saw there was a separate container of oil say high mile engines. I thought that they generally use full synthetic since it is easier on the cylinders. Is there much of a difference? Would it be better to use high mile oil?


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If your car has high miles, I suppose.
I always use a synthetic blend because almost every vehicle that I own has high miles!
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:40 PM   #16
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:03 PM   #17
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I like to change my oil when the engine is cold. One reason is I have burned my hands too many times with hot oil. Another reason, and I know I could be wrong, is the oil has drained from the top of the engine completely down to the pan. It may take a minute longer to drain out but if it does then following that logic the new oil should also take forever to pour out of its' container, and I don't see that.
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:46 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by JokerS197 View Post
So this question might sound dumb but is there a major difference between full synthetic and high mile oil? When I went to Walmart a couple of months ago to get oil, I was just going to pick up full synthetic. Then I saw there was a separate container of oil say high mile engines. I thought that they generally use full synthetic since it is easier on the cylinders. Is there much of a difference? Would it be better to use high mile oil?


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Not a dumb question at all. High mile oils contain leak sealers and conditioners. Some say do not use if it aint leaking. If your engine is well maintained, stick with conventional or synthetic or synth blend non high mile. I feel high mileage is for the masses that neglect their car and need a saving grace by 75k. Im at 155k and using motorcraft synth blend. Usually synth blend is useless, but motorcraft is a great oil. Otherwise id say just buy synth for longevity, regular for saving money. Mixing doesnt benefit much. High mileage may help with lost compression a bit in some cases i guess. Dont have any experience with it.

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Old 04-25-2015, 02:30 PM   #19
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As said above the contaminants and stuff that you don't want in your engine is suspended in the oil when its warm, due to the detergents in the oil. If you let it cool it won't get as much out. Its better to change it warm

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Old 04-27-2015, 07:36 AM   #20
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You can do it in the cold but having it warm is better so it can flow easier


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