Throttle body and short throw shifter questions - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-13-2017, 12:51 AM   #1
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Throttle body and short throw shifter questions

Ok so going through this forum like 12 pages worth, and I didn't find what I was looking for. If there is please send the link. No need to repeat if it's been said before. But on to the main questions

1. Is upgrading the stock throttle body worth it? If it is, do I go with anTB and spacer or just the TB? I could say with the research I've done so far is that I've seen it's basically 50/50. To be completely honest my main goal for my V6 'stang is efficiency. If power comes with what I plan to do then awesome if not really oh well. I plan on upgrading the coils and the injectors so the engine itself is working at a good street level. I don't race but Turing heads and ripping through gears is fun. It's a DD but it's a total of maybe 5 miles a week at the very worst.

2. What is the general thought on the what short throw shifters work well on the 3.7? Barton? Or something else. Like I said earlier efficiency is the name of the goal. Super effective and subtle changes to make my car, my dream.

If it helps already installed on the car:
Roush CAI
Roush Axle back
Ford Racing off-road X pipe
19" premium wheels
Roush Lowering Springs
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Old 08-13-2017, 04:38 AM   #2
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MGW has some of the best shifters available. Get them through MGW. gotta question the efficiency part at 5 miles per week why worry about it?
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Old 08-13-2017, 06:33 AM   #3
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May I give you a piece of advice: if your goal is to increase efficiency none of the changes you are planning are going to do that for you.

A larger throttle body will allow more air to enter the engine and can give you a HP bump but you will only see that at WOT in the upper rpm range. Anything below WOT and the throttle is regulating the air flow to provide a certain level of power, a bigger throttle body just means the throttle will be closed more for a given speed.

Throttle body spacers are mostly for looks on a dry intake, any power or efficiency improvement is going to be so small that you won't notice it.

You would have to increase the air flow into the engine dramatically (cams, forced induction,etc) before upgrading injectors would be needed. Putting a larger injector on an otherwise stock engine is just going to make it harder for the ECU to control the injector at low duty cycles where you spend most of your time. If you injectors are acting up stock replacements would be the way to go.

Coils are going to be the same situation. If you haven't done some extensive mods to the engine you will not realize any benefit from aftermarket coils. Again if the the coils are acting up stock replacements would be the way to go.
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:05 AM   #4
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One easy way to increase efficiency is to run a little higher air pressure in the tires. Still within the safe range the tire is rated at of course. With too much though the center of tires will wear out quicker. This reduces rolling resistance. Lighter rims help as well will less rotating mass.


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Old 08-13-2017, 12:23 PM   #5
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Eh really it's just an itch I want to scratch. I figured that those would help. But I do also intend to cruise it around town and to meets and such. I'm really looking for advice on what to do since I got the car with slight mods already I just wanted to put some things that I felt like get over looked. But thank you I'll check those shifters out
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:48 PM   #6
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I have a bigger TB on my 4.0. If you buy a bigger one, you have to get a tune. The engine has to be programmed for the larger intake. You case I would stick with the stock. Also tuning the larger TB is a pain.

An idea for efficiency would be to buy a single piece aluminum drive shaft. The single piece helps with putting power to the rear wheels instead of the factory 2 piece drive shaft. It also weighs 45lbs lighter then the factory. Less weight and better power delivery.

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Old 08-21-2017, 08:46 PM   #7
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MGW shifters, no exceptions.
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgc333 View Post
May I give you a piece of advice: if your goal is to increase efficiency none of the changes you are planning are going to do that for you.

A larger throttle body will allow more air to enter the engine and can give you a HP bump but you will only see that at WOT in the upper rpm range. Anything below WOT and the throttle is regulating the air flow to provide a certain level of power, a bigger throttle body just means the throttle will be closed more for a given speed.

Throttle body spacers are mostly for looks on a dry intake, any power or efficiency improvement is going to be so small that you won't notice it.

You would have to increase the air flow into the engine dramatically (cams, forced induction,etc) before upgrading injectors would be needed. Putting a larger injector on an otherwise stock engine is just going to make it harder for the ECU to control the injector at low duty cycles where you spend most of your time. If you injectors are acting up stock replacements would be the way to go.

Coils are going to be the same situation. If you haven't done some extensive mods to the engine you will not realize any benefit from aftermarket coils. Again if the the coils are acting up stock replacements would be the way to go.
A larger throttle body will not give any gain in HP over stock without other modifications. You will simply allow more air in quicker, essentially allowing you to experience wide open throttle (WOT)quicker.

To gain anything with the intake side of an engine you must first make sure the exhaust is in check. The heads are where the gains come from. With restrictive heads you will only free up a small amount of power with injectors, intakes, plenum, and manifold. An engine's heads are where the power is at.
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:01 PM   #9
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Before I forget; a tune is really only adjusting the timing. There is a small amount of air / fuel mixture adjusted, but that is in regard to the timing. Horsepower is gained through a tune due to the timing adjustments. When you add other bolt on parts you can tune to add more fuel to the added flow of air.

This is still done in regard to the heads. Timing is all about piston stroke, combustion, and valve timing.

If you change the cams you can now adjust the timing and air / fuel ratio to meet the needs of the valves being open for a longer duration.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:44 AM   #10
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If you add more air, you'll need more fuel. Seems like a larger TB would only be beneficial if you can provide more fuel along with it.

I think the one piece drive shaft is the winner in my book. Less rotating mass is always a good thing.
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Old 08-22-2017, 01:17 PM   #11
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If you add more air, you'll need more fuel. Seems like a larger TB would only be beneficial if you can provide more fuel along with it.

I think the one piece drive shaft is the winner in my book. Less rotating mass is always a good thing.
Losing weight is normally a good idea.

I have some rotational mass to remove on my own body. If I don't keep up with my work outs I am going to become a gravitational mass.
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #12
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Losing weight is normally a good idea.

I have some rotational mass to remove on my own body. If I don't keep up with my work outs I am going to become a gravitational mass.

Haha Does that mean you might have a gravitational pull?
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Old 08-22-2017, 02:47 PM   #13
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Haha Does that mean you might have a gravitational pull?
Women orbit around me. Hahahahaha!
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:27 PM   #14
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Women orbit around me. Hahahahaha!

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Old 08-22-2017, 08:55 PM   #15
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Lol well I've got the same weight issue so... I'm ****ed But I do see the lighter drive shaft as helping. I truly appreciate the help.
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