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Old 09-24-2012, 07:59 PM   #1
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Hit by lightning

Hey guys this is my first post here. I bought this 2012 V6 mustang at auction for super cheap because it wasn't running. I took it to ford and they told me it must have been hit by lightning or something crazy like that. They want to replace every single module in the car at a total of $10,000! My question is can I bypass some systems and just replace some of the modules to get it to run.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:24 PM   #2
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Damn. The new cars are just SO electronic.. Electric issues are something you should usually just leave to the dealer.. Is it not worth it to fix it? Idk what you payed for it.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:29 PM   #3
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Is it still under warranty? If so, definitely let the dealer fix that hot mess.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:36 PM   #4
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Damn, sounds more like it went through an EMP field! That sucks! I'd put it back up on the auction block. You might turn a profit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Azure
Is it still under warranty? If so, definitely let the dealer fix that hot mess.
Lol, "Hot mess"? How long have you been waiting to use that phrase?

---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:32 PM ----------

Oh btw, welcome aboard NM Mustang guy!
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primer2tone View Post
Damn, sounds more like it went through an EMP field! That sucks! I'd put it back up on the auction block. You might turn a profit.



Lol, "Hot mess"? How long have you been waiting to use that phrase?
Lol!
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:57 PM   #6
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WoW.....that sucks! It's not so cheap now?
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:02 AM   #7
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You need a parts car thats been wrecked really bad... if what they said is true.
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Old 09-25-2012, 05:42 AM   #8
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Homemade?

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Originally Posted by Sanguin View Post
You need a parts car thats been wrecked really bad... if what they said is true.
You're right, needs a part car, will you elaborate on "Homemade intake"??
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audioAl

You're right, needs a part car, will you elaborate on "Homemade intake"??
I can do better than elaborating. I can take you to the horses mouth. Lol

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Old 09-25-2012, 02:33 PM   #10
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Find another dealer

If it has under 36,000 miles on it the Warranty should still cover the repair even if lightning did hit the car.

It is imposable for it to have been hit by lightning anyway. It would have had to be grounded to do any damage and if it was grounded it would probably have caught fire.

Before I spent $10,000 on the computer stuff I would think of getting a nice old fashoned crate engine from Ford and forget about the computers.
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:12 AM   #11
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The car has full power, I can hear the fuel pump turn on. All the electronics on the inside of the car seem to work like the gauges radio etc. but to cranking of anykind. I thought it was going to be a theft system problem. If every single module in the car was blown would you get the gauges or signals to work? I'm having it towed to my house tomorrow I'm going to jump the starter and see what happens.
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:20 AM   #12
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So no one knows what happened to it? This is really strange.

Maybe the car has been sabotaged? Previous owner couldn't afford it so he caused something to happen to the car do that his insurance would payout and he could walk away from it.
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NM Mustang guy
Hey guys this is my first post here. I bought this 2012 V6 mustang at auction for super cheap because it wasn't running. I took it to ford and they told me it must have been hit by lightning or something crazy like that. They want to replace every single module in the car at a total of $10,000! My question is can I bypass some systems and just replace some of the modules to get it to run.
That's a whole lotta zeros. Now totally out of the question but which part of NM are you in?
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:55 PM   #14
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we gotta know more! take it to another ford dealer and get an elaborate explanation of what it is and why they think so.
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:45 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by NM Mustang guy View Post
Hey guys this is my first post here. I bought this 2012 V6 mustang at auction for super cheap because it wasn't running. I took it to ford and they told me it must have been hit by lightning or something crazy like that. They want to replace every single module in the car at a total of $10,000! My question is can I bypass some systems and just replace some of the modules to get it to run.
I wonder if you can find a place that does repairs on the different modules,,I know the FICM,on the ford diesels,,6.0,,they go out alot,,its the injector module,,and we have them repaired,,
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:01 PM   #16
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It probably just needs to be reprogrammed.

If the radio & lights etc are all working then the problem is probably the chip in the key is not programmed to the computer. The dealer should not have blown you off. Call the Ford hotline and raise hell. (That is if your car is under 36,000 miles) Even so the dealer should try to help you and not just replace everything in the car. That is just """WRONG"""

Ain't nothing but a bunch of "PARTS CHANGERS" at these dealerships anymore. No Mechanics left working at all.

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Old 09-26-2012, 04:52 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
If the radio & lights etc are all working then the problem is probably the chip in the key is not programmed to the computer. The dealer should not have blown you off. Call the Ford hotline and raise hell. (That is if your car is under 36,000 miles) Even so the dealer should try to help you and not just replace everything in the car. That is just """WRONG"""

Ain't nothing but a bunch of "PARTS CHANGERS" at these dealerships anymore. No Mechanics left working at all.

Ronnie
I agree,,you need to have someone that has some experience and a good scanner ,,to come up with a better conclusion,,Im only up to 08 on electronics at work,,so im not sure how much has changed since then to 2012,,but alot of the modules are interchangable,,except the pats system,,which is intergrated in the pcm i think.The reason i say that the scanner we have you use the same personally key to access the security and the pcm.The pcm if you used another one that will have to be reprogrammed..I pretty sure the pcm and the catylitic convertors are both warranty for 80000 miles,,theres a few items that are covered further then the 36000 miles,,they just dont broadcast it,,do some research
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Old 09-26-2012, 06:45 PM   #18
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PATS Module is around the ignition module itself. Still is on the newer too. (I do a ton of remote starts...plus I service a/v and security for two ford dealerships...) If everything in the car is coming on, fuel pump, dash lights, etc. Does the motor turn over? Doesn't seem like it from your posts. Anyway, if it is not turning over, it could be the relay underhood, or the starter itself. Even if the PATS or pcm were bad, it would still turn over. Just no fuel or spark. I would start at the ignition harness and make sure there's the proper power in the proper wires. The starter wire tests with a multimeter, should pulse 12volts when key turns. Here's the wiring diagram for your car, hope it helps:

Item Wire Color Polarity Wire Location


12 Volts red (80A) + SJB, black 1 pin plug (G), pin 1

The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.

Second 12 Volts blue/red (20A) + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 4

Starter blue/white + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 7

Second Starter N/A

Ignition gray/purple + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 1

Second Ignition N/A

Third Ignition N/A

Accessory purple/green + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 6

Second Accessory N/A

Third Accessory N/A

Keysense blue/gray + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 5

Data Bus purple/gray (TX), yellow/orange (RX) data PATS
Transceiver, black 4 pin plug, pins 3 and 4

The PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) Transceiver is around the ignition switch. The PATS ignition is blue/brown in pin 1, and ground is black/purple in pin 2.

Can Bus High gray/orange (MS CAN); white/blue (HS CAN) data data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pins 3 and 6

Can Bus Low purple/orange (MS CAN); white (HS CAN) data data link connector, black 16 pin plug, pins 11 and 14

Can Bus Sw N/A

Power Lock blue/green - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 17
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.

Power Unlock yellow/purple - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 4
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.

Lock Motor gray/brown 5 wire driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 6
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick

Driver Unlock Motor blue/green 5 wire driver kick or SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 28
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick

Parking Lights (-) gray - headlight switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 31

Parking Lights (+) purple/white + SJB, gray 13 pin plug (E), pin 6

Hazards brown/yellow - hazard switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 48

Turn Signal (Left) blue/green (F) + SJB, black 26 pin plug (F), pin 21
The rear turn signals are gray/brown, brown/purple, and white/green at the BCM B, black 24 pin plug, pins 4, 3, and 2. The BCM B (Body Control Module B) is in the right side of the cargo compartment.
Turn Signal (Right) yellow/purple (F) + SJB, black 26 pin plug (F), pin 23
The rear turn signals are purple/orange, brown, and gray/purple at the BCM B, black 24 pin plug, pins 16, 15, and 14. The BCM B (Body Control Module B) is in the right side of the cargo compartment.
Headlight blue/white - headlight switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 30
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick. May need to interrupt the headlight switch ground when triggering this wire. It is black/purple at the headlight switch, gray 10 pin plug, pin 3.
AutoLights purple/green (interrupt to turn off autolights) - headlight sw or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 50
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Reverse Light green/brown + BCM B, black 24 pin plug, pin 5
The BCM B (Body Control Module B) is in the right side of the cargo compartment. On vehicles with auto-dimming rearview mirror, can also use gray/brown (+) in the passenger kick, harness to rear.
Left Front Door Trigger green/purple - N.C. driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 14
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Right Front Door Trigger white - N.C. passenger kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 2
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Left Rear Door Trigger N/A
Right Rear Door Trigger N/A
Dome Supervision gray/purple + SJB, gray 14 pin plug (A), pin 9
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Trunk/Hatch Pin gray/orange - N.C. SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 16
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Rear Glass Pin N/A
Hood Pin blue/orange - N.C. hood switch or SJB, black 26 pin plug (F), pin 10
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Trunk/Hatch Release brn/yel (coupe), brn/yel or brn/pur (convertible) - release switch or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 20
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Trunk Release Motor brown/blue + SJB, black 32 pin plug (D), pin 31
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Fuel Door Release N/A
Power Sliding Door (Left) N/A
Power Sliding Door (Right) N/A
Factory Alarm Arm yellow/gray (driver door key lock) - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 9
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Factory Alarm Disarm green/purple (driver door key unlock) - driver kick or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 8
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm
Trunk Alarm Shunt N/A
Tachometer gn/bu, gy/ye, pu/gy, ye/og, bn, gn/wh, gy/bn, pu/o ac any fuel injector, black (V6) or gray (V8) 2 pin plug, pin 1
Wait to Start N/A
Neutral Safety N/A
Clutch Pedal black/yellow (input), blue/orange (output) - N.O. clutch switch, black 2 pin plug, pins 2 and 1
Fuel Pump purple/green (x2 on 5.4L) + driver kick, gray 8 pin plug, pins 6 and 7
Rear Defroster white/orange - latched HVAC Module, gray 26 pin plug, pin 2
Mirror Defroster N/A
Left Front Heated Seat white/blue - latched HVAC Module, gray 26 pin plug, pin 9
Right Front Heated Seat gray/yellow - latched HVAC Module, gray 26 pin plug, pin 10
Speed Sense brown/green ac PCM, black 50 pin plug, pin 25 (3.7L), 14 (5.0L), or 36 (5.4L)
The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is in the engine compartment, next to the underhood fuse box.
Brake Wire purple/white + brake switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 40
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Parking Brake white/purple - parking brake switch or SJB, gray 26 pin plug (C), pin 1
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Horn Trigger blue/white - horn switch or SJB, black 52 pin plug (B), pin 41
The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.
Wipers blue/orange (L), purple/orange (H), blk/pur (grnd) - wiper switch, black 16 pin plug, pins 16, 9, and 15
Memory Seat 1 N/A
Memory Seat 2 N/A
Memory Seat 3 N/A
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:51 PM   #19
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ya.. there ya go. get right on that list....

best of luck to you. Hope it is more simple..
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:08 PM   #20
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WoW --That is why I love this Forum.

WTFDiesel,
This is the best advise on this post. I'm sure you just saved MN Mustang guy a lot of $$$$ and that does not include the grief.

I'm going to copy this information and stick it in my Mustang Folder. I also have a 2012 and it may come in handy for me or someone else someday.

This has to be the best Mustang Forum "EVER" The Members like you with all of your knowledge and sharing it to help other members is really great. I'm pretty certain that NM Mustang guy thanks you and I know I certainly do.

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Old 09-27-2012, 07:00 AM   #21
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I appreciate it. I only separated the stuff that was what I think is the most prominent. Pretty sure it's not PATS (Anti Theft) or ecm/ECU. Car should still turn over at that point. Like I said, first check that you have 12 volt power constant at:
12 Volts red (80A) + SJB, black 1 pin plug (G), pin 1

The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is in the passenger kick.

Second 12 Volts blue/red (20A) + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 4

Then turn the key on into the run position, and make sure you have power at:
Ignition gray/purple + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 1

Accessory purple/green + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 6

Keysense blue/gray + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 5

Then if all these test properly, test for 12 volts positive while turning the key to crank the car: Starter blue/white + ignition switch, black 7 pin plug, pin 7

If there's no constant 12v at one or more of the first power wires, then there's a fuse or fusible link bad. I think Ford cut out fusible links when they went canbus (06-07). If you have power, but no ignition, probably a fuse or relay, but since you say the dash lights up and fuel pump runs, it seems likely to rule these issues out, test them none-the-less though. After these have been ruled out, go to the relay/fuse box in the pass kick and, using the owner's manual, find out if there is a starter relay in there and swap it with one of the others to test. Also, this sounds funny, but one of my installers blew a fuse on a ford truck about a year ago, truck wouldn't start, he tried for 2 hours to find why....I finally found a fuse in the kick panel box that was blown, it was hiding between the relays and tested good with a test light and probe, my meter finally caught it, so my BEST advice is to not use a test light, please use a volt meter. Or you could really damage the ecm/pcm/ecu packages.
Anyway, next step if the relay exists, or is good in the pass kick, then on to under the hood to the relay/fuse panel there. Same drill, make sure all fuses are good, then find and swap starter relay. Try and do all this before you jump the starter...that is a last resort. I kinda thought on this a little more last night. I am fairly convinced that this is a much simpler fix than 10 grand in modules. Electronic issues in cars are harder to track down than ever these days. Newer the car, the more of a pita... In this case, I am thinking ignition/starter because of the not turning over issue. I hope it is something very simple, and you've just bought yourself a nice whip for a little change. Now, when you're ready for I.C.E. or lighting, gimme a call!!!
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Old 09-27-2012, 07:52 AM   #22
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:20 AM   #23
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HaH!! I would have poo'ed. "Dude look at that big bad *** Marine with the American Top Team shirt on with all the poo running down his leg!!"
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:09 AM   #24
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Damn Sanguin, you beat me to it...just came here to post it. 1 i n775,000 chance to get hit by lightning. Apparently the odds of getting beat to post a pertinant vid on a forum is even better.
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Old 09-27-2012, 02:56 PM   #25
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I hope this works out for you, otherwise you just bought junk pile. It will cost you a fortune for Ford to go through everything to see actually what is good and what is fried.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:24 PM   #26
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I'm interested in how much he payed for a non working car. Lets say he bought it for 5k.. And 10k from Ford to get working.. You got a nice basically brand new car for 15k... You gotta weigh your options. At 15k you can turn it if you can't afford payments.
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:33 PM   #27
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I see that Black and Yellow...you need some yellow HID foglights!! LOL.

Actually, depending on what he can troubleshoot, it would be easier and cheaper, to hit up a salvage yard, get the ecu, smart junction box, and the ignition with PATS module and hopefully key all from a single car, unplug all his stuff on the non cranker, and plug the salvage stuff in. I could do this in a 2012 in approximately 2.5 hours. One of my installers thinks I would do it faster, but I know I can install a fully loaded holy S--t package remote start, lcd paging, window controlling, trunk popping, temp sensing, turbo timering, light blinking, gps, texting monster alarm in one in 2.5-3. Which, by the way, is about twice as much work as swapping these items lol.
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Old 09-28-2012, 02:34 AM   #28
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Wtf is a texting monster alarm lmao.
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:51 AM   #29
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The alarm with a gps add on that will text youand alert your phone while you're in nebraska and your car is in Florida lol.
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Grabber Blue "Betty" 2012 V6 Six Speed, 3.55, BBK cai/throttle body, longtubes, x-pipe, axle back w/oem tips, Lugo Performance Dynotune, Zex 100 dry. I need factory v6 foglight housings, and the stock 11/12 gt grill with the light housings.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:45 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by WtFDiesel
The alarm with a gps add on that will text youand alert your phone while you're in nebraska and your car is in Florida lol.
Wtf.. When I finally get out of college and get a new mustang im goin to feel like I got a new phone or something.. Tons of things I will find out and learn. Crazy lol
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Old 09-29-2012, 01:47 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by WtFDiesel View Post
I see that Black and Yellow...you need some yellow HID foglights!! LOL.

Actually, depending on what he can troubleshoot, it would be easier and cheaper, to hit up a salvage yard, get the ecu, smart junction box, and the ignition with PATS module and hopefully key all from a single car, unplug all his stuff on the non cranker, and plug the salvage stuff in. I could do this in a 2012 in approximately 2.5 hours. One of my installers thinks I would do it faster, but I know I can install a fully loaded holy S--t package remote start, lcd paging, window controlling, trunk popping, temp sensing, turbo timering, light blinking, gps, texting monster alarm in one in 2.5-3. Which, by the way, is about twice as much work as swapping these items lol.
I'm going to double check the fuses and relays, I hope Ford would have cought those though. But I really think this is the answer I was looking for, thanks wtfdiesel. I'll start tracking down a salvage yard with a doner.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:16 AM   #32
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carfax

I think I would get a carfax on this and get some history on what could have happened to it. The report should show any auto repair facilities involved where you could get more info. As far as a lightning strike, as mentioned before, about the only way it would have affected the car is if it was grounded, like a flat tire etc. when struck.
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