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Old 10-01-2012, 01:30 PM   #1
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Panhard Bar

What are everyone's thoughts on these? The performance shop I will get my sprigs installed at said he's gotten all the eiibachs on his and other customers within specs with nothing but the springs and then an alignment. It seems to be beneficial but not necessary and something i may add later. add later
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:34 PM   #2
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It all depends on how much the car is lowered. The lower you go, the more your rear axle will want to shift to the left. With an adjustable panhard rod, you'll be able to bring it back to center. I believe the rule-of-thumb is that once it's lowered more than an inch you want to get an adjustable panhard rod to re-center your rear axle.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida3.7L
It all depends on how much the car is lowered. The lower you go, the more your rear axle will want to shift to the left. With an adjustable panhard rod, you'll be able to bring it back to center. I believe the rule-of-thumb is that once it's lowered more than an inch you want to get an adjustable panhard rod to re-center your rear axle.
Looking at the steeda ultralights. I can get them from stage 3 for $225. Not sure if AM will match because it is a 10% steeda discount?

It would be 1 1/4 front 1 1/5 rear. Steeda and eibach both say you can just use springs and so did the installer whom has eiibachs on his personal ride.

I'm thinking the wife will kill me if I do both and is already going to make me wait till around Christmas before I could put them on. But I may order one closer to install time and do them both.

It seems from what I've found out is that you are fine without and can better your set up with them.

So I'm looking for opinions an experiences and whatever words of wisdom people may have.

I doubt I will do anything more suspension wise. I'm doing it mostly for looks.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:46 PM   #4
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You need that bar to lower your car or it will shift. Js.
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:53 PM   #5
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I got the panhard. I'm lowered with eibach and you'll notice that one wheel appears more tucked in then the other. It bothered me a lot. Not sure if everyone has that problem but I know a majority have. If you can fit it in your budget then I'd grab it for peace of mind. Although it isn't a necessity.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:03 PM   #6
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Thanks for the inputs. I guess the stock panhead seems to be a lower quality.

I'm not trying to be cheap it's just one of those is it really worth it purchases if the stock one would would be fine?

Part of me says get both and the other says to try it without the adj panhead and see how it works out.

Of course I have until the end of October to get the 10% discount on the springs and a steeda bar if I want it.

@ cyclone.

I've heard that the adj bar was supposed to help with that. Did it not help on the wheel sticking out? I've read about that as well happening to others.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:16 PM   #7
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It's not that it's lower quality, it's that it's non-adjustable. As you lower your car, you change the angle of your panhard rod. This is what shifts your rear end. An adjustable panhard rod fixes this issue. It did when I lowered mine. Since you said it should only lower it 1 1/5 inches, you may be alright. Once you've lowered it I would suggest checking your rear wheels in relation to the fenders just in case.
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Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:30 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida3.7L
It's not that it's lower quality, it's that it's non-adjustable. As you lower your car, you change the angle of your panhard rod. This is what shifts your rear end. An adjustable panhard rod fixes this issue. It did when I lowered mine. Since you said it should only lower it 1 1/5 inches, you may be alright. Once you've lowered it I would suggest checking your rear wheels in relation to the fenders just in case.
+1. Lower with the springs and see how it sits. And JAC20 the panhard did fix it, sorry kinda worded it weird.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CYCLON37

+1. Lower with the springs and see how it sits. And JAC20 the panhard did fix it, sorry kinda worded it weird.
Thanks for the input you guys.
I may just do the wait an see approach and the money I would spend on it right away would almost cover install.

Did you do an alignment right away or did you wait for the springs to settle?

I keep forgetting to ask that one.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:53 PM   #10
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Alignment was done same time.
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:11 PM   #11
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I installed everything myself and got the alignment more than drivable for right now. I'm waiting for the springs to settle before I get a professional alignment. I guess it just depends on your preference whether to get it done at the same time or wait for the springs to settle.
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Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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