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Old 01-28-2016, 12:23 PM   #36
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I'm just starting to mod my V6. I'm getting a Steeda Intake, Diablosport Trinity T-1000 tuner, and Borla ATAKs to start. Having a tune is a huge concern, as two years ago when my mustang was fairly new I maxed it out at 113. That's ridiculous. But while I want it to have a higher top speed, I don't think that driveshaft will last long past about 125. Upgrading a driveshaft is something I want to do, but my friend who knows just about everything about Mustangs has taken his '07 V6 up to 140 and has had no issues. I think with the driveshaft it's more of an inconsistent manufacture than a constant "your driveshaft WILL break" kind of thing.

Sorry this is a lot but with all of this being said, I would say upgrading the driveshaft is something that is HIGHLY recommended, but not required, to go past 113.
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Old 01-28-2016, 12:45 PM   #37
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I've said in other post I've had my mustang up to 150 multiple times I maxed it out at 155. I can honestly say I drive past 130 2-3xs per week. I have had my mustang for 3 years and I have never had a problem. Personally I think it's an inconsistency also, or I just have a beefy driveshaft.


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Old 01-28-2016, 01:06 PM   #38
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I have one from the Axle Exchange and it is not only stronger but it is lighter. Lighter means less rotating weight and stronger means no worries.

My car is a 2012 and they say a change was made in the later 2013's on the V6 drive shafts.
I do not regret one bit about spending the $$$$ for a aluminum drive shaft.
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:30 PM   #39
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I've said in other post I've had my mustang up to 150 multiple times I maxed it out at 155. I can honestly say I drive past 130 2-3xs per week. I have had my mustang for 3 years and I have never had a problem. Personally I think it's an inconsistency also, or I just have a beefy driveshaft.


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Wow man that's insane that you do that twice to three times a week on the stock driveshaft. I can just see me getting mine up barely past 130 and it just shattering and falling apart and me having to pay for thousands of dollars worth of damage because I voided hella warranties for having an aftermarket tune installed
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:39 PM   #40
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Wow man that's insane that you do that twice to three times a week on the stock driveshaft. I can just see me getting mine up barely past 130 and it just shattering and falling apart and me having to pay for thousands of dollars worth of damage because I voided hella warranties for having an aftermarket tune installed

WOW MAN!! I think it's insane he goes that fast two or three times a week period. Unless he is on the track.
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Old 01-28-2016, 03:51 PM   #41
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I may be wrong, but I think someone needs to get their speedometer looked at.
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:03 PM   #42
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Well at this point I believe it's called hearsay.
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Old 01-28-2016, 04:14 PM   #43
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Quote:
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I've said in other post I've had my mustang up to 150 multiple times I maxed it out at 155. I can honestly say I drive past 130 2-3xs per week. I have had my mustang for 3 years and I have never had a problem. Personally I think it's an inconsistency also, or I just have a beefy driveshaft.


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Wow. You go to the track quite a bit.
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:41 PM   #44
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Well at this point I believe it's called hearsay.

Exactly I could be talking out of my *** or I could be telling the truth but we will know come Saturday and this with 2.73 gears.


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Old 01-28-2016, 05:55 PM   #45
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Exactly I could be talking out of my *** or I could be telling the truth but we will know come Saturday and this with 2.73 gears.


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I don't disbelieve what you say(I've heard of others that have done it) but none-the-less it's still hearsay. particularly for anyone considering removing their speed limiter without replacing DS.
The 2.73 gears are actually in your favor for both top speed and for slowest drive shaft RPM at that speed.
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:49 PM   #46
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I don't disbelieve what you say(I've heard of others that have done it) but none-the-less it's still hearsay. particularly for anyone considering removing their speed limiter without replacing DS.

The 2.73 gears are actually in your favor for both top speed and for slowest drive shaft RPM at that speed.

Exactly that's why I don't understand the guy that says I need to get my speedo checked out. Idk, I'm a firm believer in don't knock it until you try it but like I said I don't condone driving at those speeds.


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Old 01-28-2016, 07:13 PM   #47
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So does anyone know what the percentage is as to how many driveshaft failures happened to the 3,7s? It seems the only time you here about them blowing up is when someone has a question about a driveshaft.Not trying to sound like it doesn't happen but you don't really see it posted on here or other forums about peoples driveshafts blowing up .Also most of us on here I'm sure drive our cars daily and don't really beat on them and stay within the speed limit . So no disrespect to you guys who got the one piece shafts but if you don't track it or beat on it the stock shafts will be fine ..Its like if you abuse a engine and take it to the limit it's going to break sooner or later.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:33 PM   #48
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Realistically? Probably well under 1% of 3.7 produced have or will experience a driveshaft failure when not going ludicrous speed.

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Old 01-28-2016, 07:54 PM   #49
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Chris44117

I apologize. Didn't mean to make it sound like I was picking on you. Just shocked that someone has a safe place to be able to drive that fast that often.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:04 PM   #50
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The whole drive shaft scare was way overblown back a few years ago. Yes, the ONE piece ds that comes stock on 2011-2014 stangs is a POS, but for many it has held up well. I myself haven't had any high speed issues, but still will replace it for peace of mind since i'm lowered. It's kind of hilarious reading back at the original posts and all the miss information posted.
The reason for failures, both at high speeds and on the dyno was found to be caused by poor pinion angle. Since the v6 uses a 1 piece unit with a slip joint in the middle it's incapable of correcting/adapting the pinion angle once you lower your car (even mildly). That's why for V6 owners its super important to get an adjustable UCA to correct it. The GT uses a true two piece unit with a carrier bearing in the middle that is better able to adjust to changes in the pinion angle.
***V6 Newbs: Important, Read this***
If you are lowered and have bought an Axle exchange or other one piece drive shaft the same applies to you. You'll want a UCA to fix the pinion angle since they DO NOT have the ability too (like the stock unit). The only one currently being sold that doesn't require a UCA is the DSS drive shaft since it has a CV joint at the end that automatically adjusts. To be clear, if you're at stock ride height or slightly dropped (1.5" or less) you will probably be in spec so buying a UCA would only be piece of mind, but still helps plant the car to the ground.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:31 PM   #51
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I found some pictures to add

First I gotta say that 150 Plus MPH is possible with the proper conditions with a 3.7 V6 automatic and a 2,73 ratio rear differential.
You do have to eliminate the rev limiter.
From 130 to the 150 will take a while because of increased wind resistance but it will do it.
At 150 MPH you will be doing just around 5,500 RPM in top gear with the automatic.

But remember this: If that stock drive shaft is the early one. It is Heavy and possibly could come apart. A real tragedy if it does.
If your going to continually doing really high speed driving it would be in your best interest to get a good aluminum drive shaft and to really be safe, Get a drive shaft loop installed too.

I notice on these forums that some of the 2011 2012 stock drive shafts weigh in at around 27 pounds and some like mine are at 41 pounds. Ford must get them from a couple different sources. Mine even has a sticker on it from Ford that say's Scrap if dropped. DUH !
I'll see if I can find the pictures of mine.
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2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:51 PM   #52
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Paintman1111 is right --BUT--

What needs to be done if you lower any Mustang no matter what drive shaft you have is to get a good quality adjustable Panhard bar and measure the pinion angle.

2010-2014 Mustang Panhard Bars | AmericanMuscle | Free Shipping

Of course I'm not talking 2015 or 2016

I have the Axle exchange on my 3.7 V6 and it is as smooth as it can be, No vibration, No Noise -It fit perfect.

Do a search and if I remember it right -The Drive Shaft Shop is one that had the most complaints about Noise, and Vibration.
Maybe some of you that have them can chime in.
I don't have that brand so I really only can go by what I remember reading a while back.
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Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:02 PM   #53
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Go with the Axle Exchange one piece aluminum driveshaft and be done with it.

Non 🍼and non 🌽fed. I $uck!
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:55 PM   #54
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I believe they did have a very brief issue from drive shafts making vibrations, but they offered to re-balance for free.
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Old 01-30-2016, 01:05 AM   #55
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The Ford V6 driveshaft was adapted from the Ranger and is very stout. However, it should be noted that the problem as I understand it, is the harmonic resonance at high RPMs will tear it apart. One of the aftermarket aluminum driveshafts had the same issue until they moved a weld point. Since the 2.73 gears will cause lower shaft RPMs, it should be safer for higher speeds, but Ford is not about to take any chances if you decide to put 3.31 factory gears in. Anything else is non-factory, and they are off the hook. Aluminum driveshafts are normally safer and smoother running than stock units. BTW, pre-2011 driveshafts are totally different animals.
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