How easy is it to remove the rear antenna? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-07-2012, 10:25 PM   #1
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How easy is it to remove the rear antenna?

I didn't bother searching since I have never seen anything like this in the couple months I have been on, and it is not an exhaust or cold air induction question...

I want to remove my antenna. Does anyone have.any info to help? Advice, or know what I would need to do to cover the opening and/or maintain reception?
I do not know how to even start removing it. All feedback is welcome.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:41 PM   #2
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I wanna say you just unscrew it but not 100% sure... lol
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltArc View Post
I didn't bother searching since I have never seen anything like this in the couple months I have been on, and it is not an exhaust or cold air induction question...

I want to remove my antenna. Does anyone have.any info to help? Advice, or know what I would need to do to cover the opening and/or maintain reception?
I do not know how to even start removing it. All feedback is welcome.
I'd love to see an antenna delete kit. But I suspect the only way is with body shop. But If the hole is clean, you would think some plug and seal would work. Depends in what is under there. Good luck and let us know if you try. Pics too!!
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:16 PM   #4
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Do you not want the radio anymore? Haha
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:29 PM   #5
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Here's a thread from a few days ago about a guy replacing the antenna on his.

New antenna 4 inch cfiber

It just unscrews from its base.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:34 PM   #6
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Do you not want the radio anymore? Haha
Yea, i think they put it there for a reason lol
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Old 12-08-2012, 12:00 AM   #7
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Put an amplified horizontal antenna in the upper part of the rear window and delete the external one. One of my many personal touches I've been planning. I've also looked into using the defroster lines as an antenna, which can be done.
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:37 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguin
Put an amplified horizontal antenna in the upper part of the rear window and delete the external one. One of my many personal touches I've been planning. I've also looked into using the defroster lines as an antenna, which can be done.
Yes your stock antenna will unscrew. There is a round hole under the plastic base. I'm not sure how the vase comes off but once it's off you would need to patch that hole obviously. As far as makeing the rear defrost into an antenna, well, it would technically work but not well. I could get into the benefits and downfalls of active & passive antenna and talk about how length of receivers are dictated by wavelength but ill save you the wireless 101. use the horizontal like you were planing, that's your best bet.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:51 AM   #9
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Sweet.

I tried unscrewing a little, but didn't want to do more or get firm with it not knowing if I would break it or not.

And I am doing it to reduce drag lol. Yes, it is for the radio, and I was rolling from all of these comments, but I am gonna TRY switch to CDs.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:30 AM   #10
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Lol @ reducing antenna drag.

Try this and paint it.
UPR Billet Antenna Delete Kit


Or do it your self,like this.
Tutorial: Custom Antenna Delete - MustangForums.com
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:39 AM   #11
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HuH????????

ULTArc said:
Quote:
And I am doing it to reduce drag lol.
I'm sure it probably takes a whole bunch of horsepower to pull that antenna through the wind. DUH!!!!

Your kidding, Ain't ya??????

Ronnie

If you are just trying to make the car look cleaner without the antenna protrusion

Check this out"
http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/Anten...nt-Antenna-Kit
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebeltx View Post
Yes your stock antenna will unscrew. There is a round hole under the plastic base. I'm not sure how the vase comes off but once it's off you would need to patch that hole obviously. As far as makeing the rear defrost into an antenna, well, it would technically work but not well. I could get into the benefits and downfalls of active & passive antenna and talk about how length of receivers are dictated by wavelength but ill save you the wireless 101. use the horizontal like you were planing, that's your best bet.
Actually, yes I know all the techno babble. I researched it quite thoroughly. I'd also considered a sharkfin antenna that has an amped fm antenna in it. What i really want is an applique that resembles those painted on the rear glass in most modern vehicles. That way I can attach it to the window like tint and have an antenna that way. I've yet to find something like that though, but surely it exists.
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Old 12-08-2012, 03:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDTCM View Post
Lol @ reducing antenna drag.

Try this and paint it.
UPR Billet Antenna Delete Kit

Or do it your self,like this.
Tutorial: Custom Antenna Delete - MustangForums.com
I got a whole .00013 seconds faster. If one thinks the '10-13 is bad, the 05 to 09 is a monstrosity
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:48 PM   #14
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How about one of these????????????

Hidden Antenna - Fits Car, Truck, Motorcycle, Harley, Boat, Golf Cart, Campers, Amplified Antenna AM FM WB for Harley FLHT FLHX Universal Fit For All Custom Applications AM FM Car Radio Stereo Windshield Hidden Antenna : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:53 PM   #15
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I would not use that one. Hidden ones require being stuffed somewhere. That's fine on an open structure, but with cars having a metal outer skin, it will shield the signal and reduce it. Better to have something window/exterior mounted.
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:05 PM   #16
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Under the rear spoiler would work.

If you have a rear spoiler on your Mustang you could mount it under the spoiler and it would work just fine. It is only 3/4 X 3/4 by 4 inches so it is pretty small.

I'm guessing under the front or rear plastic bumper would still work.

I just can't see removing something nobody ever notices anyway. And don't tell be it is being removed for wind resistance because that is just plain ridiculous.

Just tell me it is being removed because the car owner wants it removed. Then I can understand. Not for to much wind resistance

Ronnie
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:04 PM   #17
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I do notice it. My '00 Grand Prix SE has an antenna and I despise it. Why? My '98 GTP has none... it's made into the rear window. Looks way better. My '10 Malibu: rear window. Why Ford couldn't spend an extra $10 to have the rear glass etched with an antenna grid at the same time as the defroster is baffling. Even one of the guys on the GP forum I frequented saw my pics and commented how he can't believe a modern car is still using an antenna mast.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948
If you have a rear spoiler on your Mustang you could mount it under the spoiler and it would work just fine. It is only 3/4 X 3/4 by 4 inches so it is pretty small.

I'm guessing under the front or rear plastic bumper would still work.

I just can't see removing something nobody ever notices anyway. And don't tell be it is being removed for wind resistance because that is just plain ridiculous.

Just tell me it is being removed because the car owner wants it removed. Then I can understand. Not for to much wind resistance

Ronnie
Mine is for drag. I know it is funny, but that is what I do...stream line, make it as efficient as the car should have come.

I am.currently working on a FUll belly pan and getting dropped in the spring. 600 miles on the factory tank, and no chrysler bullcrap with a 27 gallon tank or something.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:24 PM   #19
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OK I get it

You are the guy that is after the absolute best MPG you can ever have with your car.
Have you thoughts of doing something like this:


Of course without the wing on the back.

Your gas mileage is phenomenal and now I get why you want to remove the antenna. The front clip like Plymouth and Dodge used on the Nascar racers would probably do more for MPG then a flat under pan. Using both would be best but at what cost??? If you do something like this make sure you have some way to get airflow to keep the engine from melting.

Good luck and keep us posted on how you are doing. I'll remember you are the MPG guy from now on.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:34 PM   #20
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My son actually removed my antenna by grabbing onto it as he rounded the corner of my car trying to catch his balance. Yeah so just pull like heck on it and it'll pop off. Although it leaves the base still attached to the car. Lol, luckily my service guy at ford was able to replace it under warranty.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:08 PM   #21
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If you're maximizing gas mileage, you're better off investing in a set of light 17" wheels and putting low rolling resistance tires in the narrowest width you can find.

Full belly pan will add weight and negate any aerodynamic drag drop.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:24 PM   #22
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there is a special tool for removing the base

4-inch Fixed Mustang Billet Shorty Antenna Installation Tool (2010-2013) at AmericanMuscle - Free Shipping!
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguin
If you're maximizing gas mileage, you're better off investing in a set of light 17" wheels and putting low rolling resistance tires in the narrowest width you can find.

Full belly pan will add weight and negate any aerodynamic drag drop.
Uhh...no lol. 17s will bring my gearing back to stock. If you want your cruising rpm to be lower, one wants to increase tire size.

Kind of like how you can tell who really off roads and who just wants to waste money. Someone who performs off road or needs traction in the winter uses smaller tires, effectively increasing gearing to create more torque and increase cruise rpm.

Like Jeeps and little off road vehicles always use small tires to maintain, or increase, gearing and torque. While people who do lift kits and giant tires do it for reasons that are not off roading or performance based. Maybe playing in mud would be okay, but off reading with the western reserve, no one would dare show up with big tires. Too easy to roll with higher center of gravity, and lack of torque to move.

I want to DROP my rpm at speed. Ideally, I would go 19s or 20s. That is why I do not understand the performance package, the 19s with increased gearing almost cancels itself out.

And what do you think I am making the underbody out of? Lol, to not be worth the drag reduction .05-.01, it would have to be 100+ lbs.

Weight only affects acceleration and friction while trying to maintain speed. Drag reduction makes it more efficient accelerating and cruising, but even at such a massive weight of 100lbs it would still be more efficient to drop drag.

But please note my underbody is being cut out of two 4x8 feet sheets of Coroplast, which weighs like nothing. Eventually I would like to do an aluminum one, but that takes more work and money, while this one is just cutting and attaching what I get for free.

I get what you are saying about skinny tires, but I am not trying to turn my Ford Mustang to a Lame Duck, I still have fun- I just want it to be more fun, and be more efficient when I am just driving. Plus, that costs money. My 2013 GT rims with P Zero 18s and less than five miles on them cost 400$ including install and alignment.

I wouldn't buy something unless it is cheap lol.

If you guys want to see my inspiration, you can check out

Www.AeroCivic.com

PLEASE NOTE I am not going to ruin what I think is a beautiful car. But some things can improve...bigger tires, drop the height, underbody, that either looks GOOD or is not visible, and not only passively, but even while performing, helps the car operate better.

If you see how small drag is on that Civic, and how much Hp it takes to cruise at 60+ to 120/150 mph, it has a higher top speed than some Mustang here.

I am not saying we should all do this, or anything, but today when I pulled out from 0 to 59 mph, speed limit is 55, I knew it was a tad more efficient than stock. Cruising to work at the same speed including all of my stops and starts and hard accelerations still gave me 30.x mpg- one can feel the difference in drag, and how smoothly it floats through the air. When Roush finished my front end it felt like a completely different car. I know CAI and axle backs do not make your car faster when you are NOT using the throttle lol, when I pulled out from the spot to the stop signs it was so weird, it felt like I always had a parachute attached to it and they just cut it off.

Similar to how gaining a few Hp is not noticeable, reducing a little drag is not. But when you do a lot at once or do road tests to compare numbers, it becomes evident.

it is easy to do cold air induction-anyone can do it, and most people so.just hook it up and get a bit of a gain. But I actually get to spend time with my baby and double check measurements, and work on a project and for cheap make a personal mod that is cheap, performance effective, mpg effective, and you can't notice without a jack or some mirrors. Probably a bonding experience like doing a drive shaft, pipes, what have you. Just cheaper
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:36 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltArc View Post

Uhh...no lol. 17s will bring my gearing back to stock. If you want your cruising rpm to be lower, one wants to increase tire size.

Kind of like how you can tell who really off roads and who just wants to waste money. Someone who performs off road or needs traction in the winter uses smaller tires, effectively increasing gearing to create more torque and increase cruise rpm.

Like Jeeps and little off road vehicles always use small tires to maintain, or increase, gearing and torque. While people who do lift kits and giant tires do it for reasons that are not off roading or performance based. Maybe playing in mud would be okay, but off reading with the western reserve, no one would dare show up with big tires. Too easy to roll with higher center of gravity, and lack of torque to move.

I want to DROP my rpm at speed. Ideally, I would go 19s or 20s. That is why I do not understand the performance package, the 19s with increased gearing almost cancels itself out.

And what do you think I am making the underbody out of? Lol, to not be worth the drag reduction .05-.01, it would have to be 100+ lbs.

Weight only affects acceleration and friction while trying to maintain speed. Drag reduction makes it more efficient accelerating and cruising, but even at such a massive weight of 100lbs it would still be more efficient to drop drag.

But please note my underbody is being cut out of two 4x8 feet sheets of Coroplast, which weighs like nothing. Eventually I would like to do an aluminum one, but that takes more work and money, while this one is just cutting and attaching what I get for free.

I get what you are saying about skinny tires, but I am not trying to turn my Ford Mustang to a Lame Duck, I still have fun- I just want it to be more fun, and be more efficient when I am just driving. Plus, that costs money. My 2013 GT rims with P Zero 18s and less than five miles on them cost 400$ including install and alignment.

I wouldn't buy something unless it is cheap lol.

If you guys want to see my inspiration, you can check out

Www.AeroCivic.com

PLEASE NOTE I am not going to ruin what I think is a beautiful car. But some things can improve...bigger tires, drop the height, underbody, that either looks GOOD or is not visible, and not only passively, but even while performing, helps the car operate better.

If you see how small drag is on that Civic, and how much Hp it takes to cruise at 60+ to 120/150 mph, it has a higher top speed than some Mustang here.

I am not saying we should all do this, or anything, but today when I pulled out from 0 to 59 mph, speed limit is 55, I knew it was a tad more efficient than stock. Cruising to work at the same speed including all of my stops and starts and hard accelerations still gave me 30.x mpg- one can feel the difference in drag, and how smoothly it floats through the air. When Roush finished my front end it felt like a completely different car. I know CAI and axle backs do not make your car faster when you are NOT using the throttle lol, when I pulled out from the spot to the stop signs it was so weird, it felt like I always had a parachute attached to it and they just cut it off.

Similar to how gaining a few Hp is not noticeable, reducing a little drag is not. But when you do a lot at once or do road tests to compare numbers, it becomes evident.

it is easy to do cold air induction-anyone can do it, and most people so.just hook it up and get a bit of a gain. But I actually get to spend time with my baby and double check measurements, and work on a project and for cheap make a personal mod that is cheap, performance effective, mpg effective, and you can't notice without a jack or some mirrors. Probably a bonding experience like doing a drive shaft, pipes, what have you. Just cheaper
Just to add a little more info... My stock 19" Pirelli 245/45r19 were 27.7" (751 revolutions per mile)... My 255/35r20 pilo super sports were a smaller overall tire on my 20's 27 (770 revs per mile). So bigger wheels do not always equal bigger tires! A lower profile sidewall is better for performance if cornering is important. But it is true that bigger wheels generally are heavier than smaller ones (unless you spend a boatload of money the the rims). I'm still reading through ultra's post... I'm not smart enough to read that and retain anything on one take.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:45 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhcowboy

Just to add a little more info... My stock 19" Pirelli 245/45r19 were 27.7" (751 revolutions per mile)... My 255/35r20 pilo super sports were a smaller overall tire on my 20's 27 (770 revs per mile). So bigger wheels do not always equal bigger tires! A lower profile sidewall is better for performance if cornering is important. But it is try that bigger wheels generally are heavier than smaller ones (unless you spend a boatload of money the the rims). I'm still reading through ultra's post... I'm no smart enough to read that and retain anything on one take.
Sorry if I was unclear! I am on my mobile phone with the touch screen and it is a mess lol. I meant total rotational distance of the rubber per rotation of the axle. For example, not real number, a tire that moves two feet for an axle turn is okay. For more torque, and higher rpm for cruise speed, one wants less distance traveled per axle rotation, for example one foot per axle rotation. To keep the engine at lower rpm, it should increase, for example moving three feet per axle rotation.

Is that more clear? I am not a teacher or an expert in anyway, physics has always just been an interest, I am sure my explanations are not as concise as can be, but surely there are other people who can help clear up my info.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:37 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltArc View Post

Sorry if I was unclear! I am on my mobile phone with the touch screen and it is a mess lol. I meant total rotational distance of the rubber per rotation of the axle. For example, not real number, a tire that moves two feet for an axle turn is okay. For more torque, and higher rpm for cruise speed, one wants less distance traveled per axle rotation, for example one foot per axle rotation. To keep the engine at lower rpm, it should increase, for example moving three feet per axle rotation.

Is that more clear? I am not a teacher or an expert in anyway, physics has always just been an interest, I am sure my explanations are not as concise as can be, but surely there are other people who can help clear up my info.
Lol my brain hurts now
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:41 PM   #27
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Lol my brain hurts now
One supercharged 2013 leaves LA heading towards Houston. An 86 mustang leaves Atlanta to Houston but is towing a trailer (yep... Reneck'ish). With a drag coefficient of .67. Along the way, the first stops at the Grand Canyon for 2 hours...
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:48 PM   #28
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One supercharged 2013 leaves LA heading towards Houston. An 86 mustang leaves Atlanta to Houston but is towing a trailer (yep... Reneck'ish). With a drag coefficient of .67. Along the way, the first stops at the Grand Canyon for 2 hours...
Haha! I was literally just looking up a tow hitch set up for my stang
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:30 PM   #29
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If you're maximizing gas mileage, you're better off investing in a set of light 17" wheels and putting low rolling resistance tires in the narrowest width you can find.

Full belly pan will add weight and negate any aerodynamic drag drop.

These are the actual boards I am using. In the next week or so I will be starting the project.


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Old 12-21-2012, 04:50 AM   #30
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Is it easy to remove the antenna from at 13 cuz I want to order a shorty antenna. How hard would it be to put the new one on.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:23 PM   #31
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Is it easy to remove the antenna from at 13 cuz I want to order a shorty antenna. How hard would it be to put the new one on.
What?
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:29 PM   #32
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Is it easy to remove the antenna from at 13 cuz I want to order a shorty antenna. How hard would it be to put the new one on.
Righty tighty....lefty loosey.
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Old 12-21-2012, 03:23 PM   #33
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What?
Wana change out my stock antenna for a shorty antenna I found on ebay.

---------- Post added at 03:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:23 PM ----------

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Righty tighty....lefty loosey.
Bahaha thank you.
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:48 PM   #34
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UltArc, checked out the ecomodder link in your signature. Very interesting posts and info there. Out of curiosity on your mustang do you find you are getting better mpg by coasting in neutral vs. utilizing the DFCO (first I've heard of it) and keeping the car in gear. Is it different for downhill vs street driving coming to a stop light? BTW pretty impressive mileage you are logging! You achieving that with 3.31 or 2.73 gears?
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:34 PM   #35
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UltArc, checked out the ecomodder link in your signature. Very interesting posts and info there. Out of curiosity on your mustang do you find you are getting better mpg by coasting in neutral vs. utilizing the DFCO (first I've heard of it) and keeping the car in gear. Is it different for downhill vs street driving coming to a stop light? BTW pretty impressive mileage you are logging! You achieving that with 3.31 or 2.73 gears?
In a standard, for coasting, DFCO will give better fuel efficiency because it stops using fuel, but, it also creates a significant amount of drag. But, coasting out of gear will not have any driveline drag, but there is a constant level of fuel being used.

So, it depends, really. Do you need to slow down more so quickly, or less quickly? That will dictate it.

I have 2.7s. Downhill I down shift to the gear that keeps me at he speed I want, while I normally only coast when down shifting is too much of a slow down.

It will get better with warm weather and my future underbody!
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