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Old 01-25-2013, 09:31 PM   #36
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2011 V6 Driveshaft (Fox body shaft below it, guy is doing a 3.7 swap into a fox from a 2011 donor).

2-post is the shifter bracket style. Barton is the only person making a stand alone 2-post bracket. However, it was first designed and used by MGW, but MGW's is part of the whole short shifter assembly, you can't get it separate.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:32 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 2013mustang5.0 View Post

Wait what's the difference between the 2-post and the short shifter? I was thinking about the Barton short shifter because I'm still learning how to drive a manual transmission and think that would help a bit
The bracket will help. The design changed and is easier to install than the first design of 4 bolts. It might be a tad stiffer too. I would do that first. The shifter with the shorter throw might actually be harder to learn do to the closer shift gate.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:33 PM   #38
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After researching that "accordion" section is actually a hidden slip joint. Since the trans doesn't have a slip joint attachment, they put it in the center of the shaft like idiots.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:34 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by 2013mustang5.0 View Post

Is that like a CV joint or somthing in the middle lol. What is that?
Yes.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:35 PM   #40
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I still want to know the exact difference between the V6 and GT shaft. Like, is it length? Just the carrier bearing and its mount? Are there any 5.0 owners that are willing measure the length of the shaft as shown in the pic at the top and maybe take pics of it installed on their car? I'd appreciate it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:37 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguin View Post

2011 V6 Driveshaft (Fox body shaft below it, guy is doing a 3.7 swap into a fox from a 2011 donor).

2-post is the shifter bracket style. Barton is the only person making a stand alone 2-post bracket. However, it was first designed and used by MGW, but MGW's is part of the whole short shifter assembly, you can't get it separate.
Thx for clarifying.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:45 PM   #42
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Me too. Wish we could.see both shafts next to each other with all the details on the specs.

---------- Post added at 10:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 PM ----------

My guess is length is different. How is this possible if we use the same.shifter etc? Because we have remote mount shifters. Totally possible because of this. I bet the trans on a 5.0 is back a bit further. That would make the GT shaft shorter.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:46 PM   #43
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Bet you anything if you change out #6 "Companion Flange," which is different between the 5.0 and 3.7, you can use it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:49 PM   #44
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Totally possible too. Pinion flange on the v6 and v8 on 2005 to 2009 was different too but they had different rears. V6 had the weak 7.5 rear. These cars share the same 8.8 rear end... So why not tue same flange?... Hmmm.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:50 PM   #45
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The trans length doesn't make sense. That would require different transmission mounts and rengineering the whole transmission (changing the length of the remote shifter would alter the angles you moves the shifter and all that jazz).

I'm seriously thinking the shafts are the same lenght and it's just what they bolt to. The fronts look identical, the only difference is the rear.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:53 PM   #46
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Aftermarket 5.0 and.v6 are the same shafts i think... So if that is the case then u are more than likely correct. Ya what u said about the trans mounts, remote linkage etc... Makes.sense.. unless the mounts on the gt are stronger to handle torque but i doubt theybwould move the location. They would.just change the durometer of the bushing.

The pinion flanges might be identical bolt spacing but the gt may have a stonger u joint or something.which would.explain the design change... But why not use it on all the cars... Could it be cheaper to buy two designs, spec two designs, manufacture two designs etc?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:59 PM   #47
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If I can get a 5.0 member with me to take some measurements and pictures, I'll figure this out for us and pave the way for people wanting to swap used 5.0 shafts and if it's possible.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:02 PM   #48
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Ya. Would be good info. I would still go with a 1 pc aluminum though. Lol. Never replace with stock are words I live by. Lol.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:06 PM   #49
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I live by: "Use what works."
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:35 PM   #50
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Well In that case then the ds in it now should be fine. .
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #51
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I have plans to push that beyond what it can hold. One day my car is going to be putting out at least 500hp at the crank, if not the wheels. Better to research options now rather than later. $200 used 5.0 shaft, means $400 I can invest in injectors or a turbo, or whatever I want when that time comes.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:57 PM   #52
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At that hp it will be a new clutch and flywheel first haha! The 5.0 driveshaft u will find cheap and if u can figure out how to make it work then I would just invest in ds loops when u do the shaft swap so u keep things safe.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:58 PM   #53
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Clutch I don't think I'll need, as many have stated it's the same as the 5.0 and the 5.0 can handle a lot stock. Flywheel, for sure. POS DMF.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:19 PM   #54
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O.k not the greatest pic but proof enough.

Attachment 87501
That driveshaft you have on your mustang, is identical to the one on my 13.
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Old 01-26-2013, 07:51 AM   #55
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We can ask AM. They have deiveshafts just laying around lol, maybe they are willing to puna GT and 6 shaft next to each other and take a picture.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:03 AM   #56
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Clutch I don't think I'll need, as many have stated it's the same as the 5.0 and the 5.0 can handle a lot stock. Flywheel, for sure. POS DMF.
Ya I cant wait to get rid of the DMF. I still am not used to it though it seems to have quieted down a bit with miles on it. Was hoping it would also loosen up a bit and hang less..

Any 5.0 people live near Sanguin? Help us figure it out.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:27 PM   #57
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That driveshaft you have on your mustang, is identical to the one on my 13.
Same one as on my 2012. Build date 01/31/2012.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:02 PM   #58
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How do you find out the build date of your car?
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:22 PM   #59
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Using the Carrier bearing in the GT allows for faster speeds, since having Shorter tubes changes the Harmonics in the shaft itself, so it can rotate faster. The reason for the slip joint in the middle of the V6 shaft is basically the same reason, but the way the front is makes it a little weaker.
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:43 AM   #60
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How do you find out the build date of your car?
It's in the drivers door panel. Where the tire data, paint code etc is. A few days off from the window sticker.
It would be the final inspection date I'm sure.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:37 AM   #61
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It's in the drivers door panel. Where the tire data, paint code etc is. A few days off from the window sticker.
It would be the final inspection date I'm sure.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:42 PM   #62
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I do believe the GT Drive Shaft is 1.5 inches shorter than the V6. I think the transmission bracket on them uses the second set of holes under the car
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #63
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I do believe the GT Drive Shaft is 1.5 inches shorter than the V6. I think the transmission bracket on them uses the second set of holes under the car
Sweet. Thank you sir. Some information for me to attempt to investigate.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:18 AM   #64
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I have plans to push that beyond what it can hold. One day my car is going to be putting out at least 500hp at the crank, if not the wheels. Better to research options now rather than later. $200 used 5.0 shaft, means $400 I can invest in injectors or a turbo, or whatever I want when that time comes.
Isn't the 5.0 shaft the same thing? And that would be a whole lot for a v6
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:11 AM   #65
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No it unfortunately is a different shaft. A base S/S from Procharger bumps the HP to about 400 RWHP (475 at the crank) on just 8 pounds of boost. The 3.7 is capable of those numbers and with the right tuning is safe. A friend of mine has built many turbos and s/c cars out of Mazda motors for race teams and he picked up a 13 a few weeks ago and is already building a twin turbo setup for his car now. He is going for 500 hp on the stock bottom end.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:40 AM   #66
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Solobusa was supposedly hitting 550whp before he blew the bottom end. He also had a raised rev limiter. So no idea what the true cause was but I also don't totally trust him.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #67
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Solobusa was supposedly hitting 550whp before he blew the bottom end. He also had a raised rev limiter. So no idea what the true cause was but I also don't totally trust him.
A tune and intake manifold rases the redline
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:40 PM   #68
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Just this last Friday I was out at my county roads department having my county issued vehicle oil and filter changed. While the mechanic was working on my vehicle he and I got chatting. I learned this gentleman had graduated from Ford's mechanic school approximately two years ago and worked for a Ford dealership as a mechanic.

We got talking about the driveshaft on the 11 plus mustangs particularly on the V6 model. This Ford trained mechanic has never heard of Ford using a less quality driveshaft. Both the V8 and V6 models use a two piece driveshaft that are fine for the horse power given. According to this mechanic, the driveshaft is not going to blow up based on high speed unless there were other underlying factors. It was suggested that a one piece aluminum driveshaft be placed on if one is increasing huge amounts of HP and torgue from what stock is.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:15 PM   #69
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A tune and intake manifold rases the redline
Just because you made some modifications that can make use of higher rpm, doesn't mean the stock bottom end can take the extra abuse. That's the point I'm getting at.

The only two people that have blown up the 3.7s have pushed the redline past stock.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:56 PM   #70
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Just this last Friday I was out at my county roads department having my county issued vehicle oil and filter changed. While the mechanic was working on my vehicle he and I got chatting. I learned this gentleman had graduated from Ford's mechanic school approximately two years ago and worked for a Ford dealership as a mechanic.

We got talking about the driveshaft on the 11 plus mustangs particularly on the V6 model. This Ford trained mechanic has never heard of Ford using a less quality driveshaft. Both the V8 and V6 models use a two piece driveshaft that are fine for the horse power given. According to this mechanic, the driveshaft is not going to blow up based on high speed unless there were other underlying factors. It was suggested that a one piece aluminum driveshaft be placed on if one is increasing huge amounts of HP and torgue from what stock is.
Interestingly I received the new MyFord Magazine today. On the cover is a 2013 Shelby GT500 and it says 2013 Shelby GT500 masters the autobahn. Inside on one of the pages of the article is a section that says Fast Facts 2013 Mustang. Then it goes on to say Each Breed of this Iconic Speedster is Built to Perform. Below that along with stats for each it list the V6, GT, Boss 302 and Shelby. No mention here or in the article of speed limiters or driveshaft issues. Just built to perform. Intentional misleading advertising? Or the car can handle the power?
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