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Old 08-25-2013, 09:55 PM   #1
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So I need some reviews on some future products as some guidance. I'm just beginning to mod also. It's a DD 2012 mustang v6 auto.

I'm looking at a good, greasable LCA as mine are squeaking. Mainly due to not being able to grease them. I'm thinking the bmr with poly bushings.is boxed better that circle tubing?

I want a good intake but not airaid. I'm about to sell mine and get a better one. I'm looking at the C&L and the steeda. I like the look of the C&L but the performance of the steeda( has a squishy intake tube which I think is bad because of heat)

I'm also wanting a good mid pipe. Preferably catted. Scratch that. Only catted lol I'm getting shorty ceramics too. Would an X or H be better.

I need new lugs as 6 are stripped. Gonna shoot for some black AMR 18 or 19. So, chrome or black lugs and which are better? Spline or acorn?


On top of all this, I'm getting a tuner first to kick my mods list off.
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:31 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
So I need some reviews on some future products as some guidance. I'm just beginning to mod also. It's a DD 2012 mustang v6 auto.

I'm looking at a good, greasable LCA as mine are squeaking. Mainly due to not being able to grease them. I'm thinking the bmr with poly bushings.is boxed better that circle tubing?

I want a good intake but not airaid. I'm about to sell mine and get a better one. I'm looking at the C&L and the steeda. I like the look of the C&L but the performance of the steeda( has a squishy intake tube which I think is bad because of heat)

I'm also wanting a good mid pipe. Preferably catted. Scratch that. Only catted lol I'm getting shorty ceramics too. Would an X or H be better.

I need new lugs as 6 are stripped. Gonna shoot for some black AMR 18 or 19. So, chrome or black lugs and which are better? Spline or acorn?

On top of all this, I'm getting a tuner first to kick my mods list off.
Looks great bro. I did the same to my calipers. Painted them red. I got to so plasti dip my spoiler and wheels white. Lol



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Old 08-26-2013, 09:24 AM   #3
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I'm getting blank covers my mgp. My paint is chipping:/
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:53 AM   #4
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Why unload the Airaid ??????

If your really going to do that you should get the Steeda along with their tuner. Otherwise the Airaid is as good as any. You said you was getting a tune anyway.

For your Mid-pipe:
X is better for performance
H is better for a deeper sound but you will lose just a small tad of performance.

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Old 08-26-2013, 02:08 PM   #5
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The c&l is Alabama made. Their performance shop is in Huntsville. They even give a right up as to why their intake is best tuned or not. Steeda just talks about their with not really numbers. The c&l fit is shady though. I'm torn between them.

Anyone notice the price of intakes are now 300+???????


Ronnie you make a good point. And it's just $70 more. If you can fork out $300, what's $70 more.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:49 PM   #6
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Ronnie you make a good point. And it's just $70 more. If you can fork out $300, what's $70 more.
About 23%
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:41 PM   #7
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Lol. He is right about 23% haha. Tubular is stronger than boxed for metal. I had steeda aluminum ones on my last carwhich were greasable and were light too. Ronnie has it right on the x or h. Cai in my opinion they are all equal by 1 or 2 hp... So go quality build. Airaid has the best quality one imo. Steeda one is nice too.. i built one. That said, a friend just sold me his sct and airaid for 300 total so I will switch to the airaid and sell my build kit one local.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:09 PM   #8
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I cannot give long term feedback on the BMR I have yet (same as you described) as it's only been about 2k miles but I did grease them about 1k miles ago no problem. It was their Panhard rod I had to just loosen from the chassis a little to give room for the grease to go when pumping it in. With it torqued down, it didn't have a place to go.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:26 PM   #9
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Lol. He is right about 23% haha. Tubular is stronger than boxed for metal. I had steeda aluminum ones on my last carwhich were greasable and were light too. Ronnie has it right on the x or h. Cai in my opinion they are all equal by 1 or 2 hp... So go quality build. Airaid has the best quality one imo. Steeda one is nice too.. i built one. That said, a friend just sold me his sct and airaid for 300 total so I will switch to the airaid and sell my build kit one local.
Airaid is not quality lol I had 2 as the first one had the wrong dimensions. This is why I'm selling it. It's not quality enough for me. Too many bends also.

C&L makes a good write up saying how they have the best one as far as no tune and tune compared to steeda. If you had the throttle body, steeda is worth it. If not, then any non tune is the way to go. Only so much air will be allowed on the stock 3" body. So why is the 4" tune on the steeda so squishy?

I think alot at work lol

---------- Post added at 10:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------

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I cannot give long term feedback on the BMR I have yet (same as you described) as it's only been about 2k miles but I did grease them about 1k miles ago no problem. It was their Panhard rod I had to just loosen from the chassis a little to give room for the grease to go when pumping it in. With it torqued down, it didn't have a place to go.
How's the e brake cable?
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:28 PM   #10
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Airaid is not quality lol I had 2 as the first one had the wrong dimensions. This is why I'm selling it. It's not quality enough for me. Too many bends also.

C&L makes a good write up saying how they have the best one as far as no tune and tune compared to steeda. If you had the throttle body, steeda is worth it. If not, then any non tune is the way to go. Only so much air will be allowed on the stock 3" body. So why is the 4" tune on the steeda so squishy?

I think alot at work lol

---------- Post added at 10:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:25 PM ----------



How's the e brake cable?
Zip tied to the control arms. Fine so far. I would have liked some bracket but don't see a way to have a bracket without something hanging further down to keep the natural curve of the cables.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:39 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
So I need some reviews on some future products as some guidance. I'm just beginning to mod also. It's a DD 2012 mustang v6 auto.

I'm looking at a good, greasable LCA as mine are squeaking. Mainly due to not being able to grease them. I'm thinking the bmr with poly bushings.is boxed better that circle tubing?

I want a good intake but not airaid. I'm about to sell mine and get a better one. I'm looking at the C&L and the steeda. I like the look of the C&L but the performance of the steeda( has a squishy intake tube which I think is bad because of heat)

I'm also wanting a good mid pipe. Preferably catted. Scratch that. Only catted lol I'm getting shorty ceramics too. Would an X or H be better.

I need new lugs as 6 are stripped. Gonna shoot for some black AMR 18 or 19. So, chrome or black lugs and which are better? Spline or acorn?

On top of all this, I'm getting a tuner first to kick my mods list off.
BMR LCA and Relo Brackets if lowering
J&M Panhard bar if lowering
Steeda CAI or MMR
BBK Ceramic Shorties and Matching BBK High Flow Catted Xpipe.
JPC or Lethal Performance OTA Piping
Black Lugs
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:53 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Charlie_santos View Post

BMR LCA and Relo Brackets if lowering
J&M Panhard bar if lowering
Steeda CAI or MMR
BBK Ceramic Shorties and Matching BBK High Flow Catted Xpipe.
JPC or Lethal Performance OTA Piping
Black Lugs
Will the 2 3/4 over axle pipes from lethal be too much?
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:04 AM   #13
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Will the 2 3/4 over axle pipes from lethal be too much?
Depends what mufflers you have but they have better flowing bends bro thats the reason people buy them because they are less restrictive. If u have mufflers that can provide enough back pressure then u have no problem
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:06 AM   #14
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backpressure is bad
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:05 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Whitelightning View Post
The c&l is Alabama made. Their performance shop is in Huntsville. They even give a right up as to why their intake is best tuned or not. Steeda just talks about their with not really numbers. The c&l fit is shady though. I'm torn between them.

Anyone notice the price of intakes are now 300+???????


Ronnie you make a good point. And it's just $70 more. If you can fork out $300, what's $70 more.
C&L fit is shady? Please explain. I have one on mine; the install was a piece of cake, and the hose fittings were dead on perfect. I did install the lower shield to the front driver fender with a fastner as suggested in their instructions, but I would not refer to the C&L as a "shady fit".
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:47 AM   #16
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C&L fit is shady? Please explain. I have one on mine; the install was a piece of cake, and the hose fittings were dead on perfect. I did install the lower shield to the front driver fender with a fastner as suggested in their instructions, but I would not refer to the C&L as a "shady fit".
I'm talking about the front grille air piece. It just sits there doesn't it? The airaid had the giant box that it attached to like stock. I'm looking for one, but geez, everything went up.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:59 AM   #17
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My Opinion- "Which really don't matter"

All of the CAI aftermarket products are good. Even the stock air box is good. Steeda says you need a tune for theirs but I'm sure if you just installed the Steeda CAI it would work like any other one. The engine is only going to drew as much air as needed anyway.

I bought the Airaid because of the great looks and excellent quality it provides as eye candy when I open my hood. Weather it is actually better for performance or not compared to others I could not tell you.

One thing I can tell is that I do have better throttle response with the airaid. It also sounds great when I get on the throttle. As far as looks, I got what I wanted. Beautiful "EYE CANDY" when I pop the hood.

Ronnie
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:20 AM   #18
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All of the CAI aftermarket products are good. Even the stock air box is good. Steeda says you need a tune for theirs but I'm sure if you just installed the Steeda CAI it would work like any other one. The engine is only going to drew as much air as needed anyway.

I bought the Airaid because of the great looks and excellent quality it provides as eye candy when I open my hood. Weather it is actually better for performance or not compared to others I could not tell you.

One thing I can tell is that I do have better throttle response with the airaid. It also sounds great when I get on the throttle. As far as looks, I got what I wanted. Beautiful "EYE CANDY" when I pop the hood.

Ronnie
The Steeda CAI MAF housing is so much larger than the factory MAF tube, it has to be tuned for. Otherwise, the pcm will get an inaccurate reading of how much air is going past the MAF sensor.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:39 PM   #19
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I'm not to sure about that

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The Steeda CAI MAF housing is so much larger than the factory MAF tube, it has to be tuned for. Otherwise, the pcm will get an inaccurate reading of how much air is going past the MAF sensor.
Even without a tune it will measure the air going past the sensor no matter if the tube is larger or smaller. It will compensate the air flow to what is needed. Add a larger MAF and you will use more air but only at higher RPM's.

Even a Steeda with a tune will only use as much air as needed for any RPM. Of course at a higher engine speed it will suck in more air and more gas for a greater combustion. Which equels more power. Just normal driving around town and not running up the RPM's the Steeda would still work fine.

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Old 08-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #20
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Even without a tune it will measure the air going past the sensor no matter if the tube is larger or smaller. It will compensate the air flow to what is needed. Add a larger MAF and you will use more air but only at higher RPM's.

Even a Steeda with a tune will only use as much air as needed for any RPM. Of course at a higher engine speed it will suck in more air and more gas for a greater combustion. Which equels more power. Just normal driving around town and not running up the RPM's the Steeda would still work fine.

Ronnie
That's simply incorrect. Go google it or ask on another forum. You don't have to "tune" as in change commanded a/f or spark advance but you do HAVE to adjust for the larger MAF.

Picture a tube with a heated wire. The air is drawn through at a rate in Lb/minute. Now, increase the diameter of the tube same lb/min drawn through the larger tube. Now that the same lbs of air travels past the element at a slower speed with the large maf housing...the wire is hotter than before. That will cause the pcm to think that there is less air going into the engine, thus less fuel. IE, LEAN...not a good idea, especially at wot.

That's the way it works.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:52 PM   #21
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The Steeda CAI MAF housing is so much larger than the factory MAF tube, it has to be tuned for. Otherwise, the pcm will get an inaccurate reading of how much air is going past the MAF sensor.
The tube is squishy like jello lol

---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:52 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
All of the CAI aftermarket products are good. Even the stock air box is good. Steeda says you need a tune for theirs but I'm sure if you just installed the Steeda CAI it would work like any other one. The engine is only going to drew as much air as needed anyway.

I bought the Airaid because of the great looks and excellent quality it provides as eye candy when I open my hood. Weather it is actually better for performance or not compared to others I could not tell you.

One thing I can tell is that I do have better throttle response with the airaid. It also sounds great when I get on the throttle. As far as looks, I got what I wanted. Beautiful "EYE CANDY" when I pop the hood.

Ronnie
+1. It's still a 3" throttle body.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:01 PM   #22
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Not trying to start an argument, but altering the diameter of the tube alters the velocity and volume of air moving past the MAF. A higher mass of air in that tube without a calibration equates to un-metered air doesn't it?
If it were metered at or behind the throttle body, it probably would not matter. You could just cram as much air up to the throttle body and it's physical size constraints would limit the amount of air that would come in.

Looks like Cyclone responded while I was typing away...
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:03 PM   #23
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You just answered your own question.

You say:
Quote:
you do HAVE to adjust for the larger MAF.
Larger MAF not a larger air tube.

Want more power just get a larger Throttle body and tune for that. It's the engine that sucks in the amount of air it needs at any RPM. The Maf justs adjusts for the proper mixture at any RPM. A larger Throttle Body needs more fuel which means more air and more power at higher RPM's A larger air tube is good for the larger throttle body or a richer mixture but if your not going to tune for a richer mixture or installing a larger throttle body you can use any CAI without a tune including the Steeda. I'm sure there is someone out there with a Steeda they bought used that installed it without a tune needs to chime in here. The higher the RPM the more air the engine needs to have the proper mixture.

I think we will just have to agree to dis-agree.

Ronnie
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:04 PM   #24
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In my logic. Doesn't matter because its still a 3" hole. Only so much you can shove in it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:05 PM   #25
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Not trying to start an argument, but altering the diameter of the tube alters the velocity and volume of air moving past the MAF. A higher mass of air in that tube without a calibration equates to un-metered air doesn't it?
If it were metered at or behind the throttle body, it probably would not matter. You could just cram as much air up to the throttle body and it's physical size constraints would limit the amount of air that would come in.
The MAF sensor is a heated element..it's the airspeed across the element that will throw the tune off if the pcm is calibrated for a 3" tube...not a 3.5" tube for example. It'll also affect vvt, wot, part throttle, etc.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:10 PM   #26
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Because we have a computer pedal. Not cable like the old days.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:12 PM   #27
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You say:

Larger MAF not a larger air tube.

Ronnie
On my car the MAF sensor is calibrated to the tube it is bolted into. IF yours is a 2011+...I know it's the same way. The MAF sensor programming in the pcm is programmed for a given diameter "air" "inlet" "clean air" "cai" tube....

You change the diameter, you change the cooling of the MAF element...you change how much fuel the pcm commands to give the engine because it thinks less air is coming into the engine due to the hotter element.

I've nothing else to offer but repeat myself. Like I said, if you don't believe me, ask somewhere else and learn about it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:16 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Cyclone Perf. View Post
The Steeda CAI MAF housing is so much larger than the factory MAF tube, it has to be tuned for. Otherwise, the pcm will get an inaccurate reading of how much air is going past the MAF sensor.
Yes, and you will toss CEL codes lean on banks 1 and banks 2 if you don't have a tune with the Steada. If you had a ODBII logger you would see the the target engine using over large fuel trims on banks 1 and 2. Talk to "Rod" at Steeda.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclone Perf. View Post

On my car the MAF sensor is calibrated to the tube it is bolted into. IF yours is a 2011+...I know it's the same way. The MAF sensor programming in the pcm is programmed for a given diameter "air" "inlet" "clean air" "cai" tube....

You change the diameter, you change the cooling of the MAF element...you change how much fuel the pcm commands to give the engine because it thinks less air is coming into the engine due to the hotter element.

I've nothing else to offer but repeat myself. Like I said, if you don't believe me, ask somewhere else and learn about it.
You sound like you have a steeda. How is the squishy tube? It just seems out right dumb to me. It flexes the air through it and shoves it into the throttle body. This is just my observations. Correct or....

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Yes, and you will toss CEL codes lean on banks 1 and banks 2 if you don't have a tune with the Steada. If you had a ODBII logger you would see the the target engine using over large fuel trims on banks 1 and 2. Talk to "Rod" at Steeda.
Buddy threw those codes when he put in crap premium gas once. Was wondering what it was. He was running lean on his 91 and steeda tune.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:36 PM   #30
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Buddy threw those codes when he put in crap premium gas once. Was wondering what it was. He was running lean on his 91 and steeda tune.
If he is running fuel trim lean codes on a Steeda CAI, who supplied the tune? I suggest he talk to ROD at Steeda about it. Lean is bad.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:42 PM   #31
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If he is running fuel trim lean codes on a Steeda CAI, who supplied the tune? I suggest he talk to ROD at Steeda about it. Lean is bad.
Yeah and his manifold and H pipe came loose. Maybe that's why. But he had bank 1 and 2 show up. Bama was his tuner.
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:15 PM   #32
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Yeah and his manifold and H pipe came loose. Maybe that's why. But he had bank 1 and 2 show up. Bama was his tuner.
Was he using a Bama Diablo InTune or the SCT? Tunes are different base level code they are build on that I hear; have him talk to Rod at Steada, its a free call and techs are standing by
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:44 PM   #33
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backpressure is bad
Negative back pressure is bad. A good amount of positive back pressure is good
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:23 PM   #34
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Negative back pressure is bad. A good amount of positive back pressure is good
Positive meaning over ambient? That's not the case at all. That's a very old myth I wish would die.

So, if I step down to 2" pipes and higher backpressure, my car will perform better?

Also, in case it comes up...bigger is not better and also higher velocity isn't necessarily better either. Pressure is a result of "resistance to flow". With exhaust you do want the exhaust pulses to keep moving down the line but trying to achieve the fastest pulse travel possible will hurt performance.
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:49 PM   #35
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Also, in case it comes up...bigger is not better and also higher velocity isn't necessarily better either. Pressure is a result of "resistance to flow". With exhaust you do want the exhaust pulses to keep moving down the line but trying to achieve the fastest pulse travel possible will hurt performance.
Yea, Isn't that something like if the pulses are traveling faster than you can "scavenge" out the exhaust port in the cylinder head, you get a vacuum and the pulses start getting all turbulent instead of a laminar flow out the pipes?

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