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Old 10-10-2013, 08:14 PM   #1
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Pony projection lamps

Got my pony projection lamps in and ran it directly to the battery with in line fuse and switch. I want to switch it to the map light wiring but unsure what wires to tap into (what colors) .....seen too many moves where the guy cuts the wrong wire and sets the bomb to explode 😜. Any one know which wires? Mind you I don't have a dome light (convertible), because that would make life simple.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:16 PM   #2
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Got my pony projection lamps in and ran it directly to the battery with in line fuse and switch. I want to switch it to the map light wiring but unsure what wires to tap into (what colors) .....seen too many moves where the guy cuts the wrong wire and sets the bomb to explode ?de1c. Any one know which wires? Mind you I don't have a dome light (convertible), because that would make life simple.
I just did mine two weeks ago. Give me two secs I'll try to post a pic.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:22 PM   #3
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K so here are a couple of pics. You just have to splice off the two wires that go to each light. Easy peasy.

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Old 10-10-2013, 08:29 PM   #4
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I was thinking of tapping into the pillar where the wires lead up to the lamps but you tapped right at the lights, makes sense (duh). Think it would be ok just to tap into one side? Less splicing? Is the map light easy to get off? Is it screwed in or just pry it off?
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #5
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I was thinking of tapping into the pillar where the wires lead up to the lamps but you tapped right at the lights, makes sense (duh). Think it would be ok just to tap into one side? Less splicing? Is the map light easy to get off? Is it screwed in or just pry it off?
I would tap into both not just one side. The map light is a simple pry off. YouTube "how to remove map light mustang 2013." Its very easy to run the wires up the pillars and into the roof, no need to remove anything, the wires just tuck nicely behind everything. Just make sure to remove the battery cables before you start! Super simple. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:46 PM   #6
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I think so, will try it tomorrow.....fingers crossed. Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:47 PM   #7
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I think so, will try it tomorrow.....fingers crossed. Thanks.
NP, good luck!
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:47 PM   #8
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Ok, will try tomorrow. Thanks!
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:58 PM   #9
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I'm fairly certain you could tap into one. These are led projection lights, so they run at very low amps. There is no way you would overload the fuse or the wiring, but you can do as you wish. Ideally, the best set up is always straight to battery and wired with a relay to your map lights or in an empty fuse slot of your fuse box.
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:02 PM   #10
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I'm fairly certain you could tap into one. These are led projection lights, so they run at very low amps. There is no way you would overload the fuse or the wiring, but you can do as you wish. Ideally, the best set up is always straight to battery and wired with a relay to your map lights or in an empty fuse slot of your fuse box.
They are designed to be wired to your door lights, but seeing how our Stang's don't have any, the dome lights are the next best thing. Splicing off both lights instead of one is like an extra 5 minutes of wiring.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:06 AM   #11
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K so here are a couple of pics. You just have to splice off the two wires that go to each light. Easy peasy.

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Attachment 132102
Buy some heat shrink tube and clean up that wiring mess! Should one of those "red taped" splices fall off, your looking at a blown fuse at the very least.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:13 AM   #12
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Buy some heat shrink tube and clean up that wiring mess! Should one of those "red taped" splices fall off, your looking at a blown fuse at the very least.
I wouldn't exactly call it a "mess" Lol, and red "electrical" tape is made for just that, especially in an area where there is no wire movement to come loose. Oh bucko!
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:27 AM   #13
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I wouldn't exactly call it a "mess" Lol, and red "electrical" tape is made for just that, especially in an area where there is no wire movement to come loose. Oh bucko!
Famous last words!

Heat shrink is what's used by any wiring mod done by shops these days. It's clean, permenant, and safe. That red tape can easily loose it's stickiness from heat, and fall away. And when it was used, it was wrapped tight, not flat and folded.

Besides, it looks cheap. C'mon, your better than that!
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:42 AM   #14
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Famous last words!

Heat shrink is what's used by any wiring mod done by shops these days. It's clean, permenant, and safe. That red tape can easily loose it's stickiness from heat, and fall away.

Besides, it looks cheap. C'mon, your better than that!
Lol, you do realize its a dome light where there is next to zero space for it to fall off right? And I'm not really worried about it looking cheap because its up in a dome light. If it was done in an area say like the door where it runs the risk of falling off from the constant opening and closing than I would have shrink wrapped it, or an area where it could be prone to moisture. I see your point of heat shrink and if I ever pick some up its a quick fix but the location, purpose and environment of the splice really poses no current danger whatsoever if done properly.
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Old 10-11-2013, 05:55 AM   #15
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There you go. Even if it's in an area that's unseen, or stands the chance of not "coming off", we should still pride ourself with attention to detail, especially if we post pictures of the work.

I used the overhead dome console to install a Homelink garage door opener. I tucked the Homelink module in the roof liner, installed a simple press switch in the overhead dome console that when pressed, applies the ground to the Homelink module. I used heatshrink on all the wiring, knowing I'd never worry about it shorting, and soldered all wiring connections.

A simple drive over a speed bump can jar a wiring connection loose, anywhere. Solder and heatshrink are your best results when wiring is an issue.
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Old 10-11-2013, 07:10 AM   #16
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There you go. Even if it's in an area that's unseen, or stands the chance of not "coming off", we should still pride ourself with attention to detail, especially if we post pictures of the work.

I used the overhead dome console to install a Homelink garage door opener. I tucked the Homelink module in the roof liner, installed a simple press switch in the overhead dome console that when pressed, applies the ground to the Homelink module. I used heatshrink on all the wiring, knowing I'd never worry about it shorting, and soldered all wiring connections.

A simple drive over a speed bump can jar a wiring connection loose, anywhere. Solder and heatshrink are your best results when wiring is an issue.
Really, attention to detail?! If you actually want to go there? Well I spent 18hrs doing my stripes so they would come out perfectly, or the that I check my roush tips every week to make sure they are perfectly straight, or the fact that I make sure my garage is kept at 50-60 humidity with a dehumidifier and have fans circulating the air to keep an optimal environment! My wife thinks I'm crazy because of my OCD that she claims I have about my car. Bit anywsys If you read the first post by the op he was simply asking for a little guidance on which wires to tap onto for his projection lights, and seeing how I just did mine I went into my OCD garage to take a picture for him instead of saying cut this wire that wire etc! I never thought that helping someone out on this forum would turn into calling my wiring a "mess" or "we should take pride in our work" thingy! Maybe you should get some more zzzs in the morning before jumping on, I was just trying to help someone out!!!!
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:07 AM   #17
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Wowza! What the HE double hockey sticks is going on?! Mod is done....and sit down....I used white electrical tape.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:28 AM   #18
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Wowza! What the HE double hockey sticks is going on?! Mod is done....and sit down....I used white electrical tape.
He just rubbed me the wrong way this morning, no big deal. I'm glad too hear it went well, but don't make my mistake of posting pictures with your white electrical tape job. Lol. How long did it take?
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:39 AM   #19
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It was scary easy. Minus the work I had to undue from previous install, I would say total time was 2 hrs. The most of the install is taking off/putting on the panels and drilling. The wiring was quick and simple. Thanks so much, much better set up.
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Old 10-11-2013, 10:56 AM   #20
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It was scary easy. Minus the work I had to undue from previous install, I would say total time was 2 hrs. The most of the install is taking off/putting on the panels and drilling. The wiring was quick and simple. Thanks so much, much better set up.
Glad to help! Anytime bro.
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:19 AM   #21
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I have a problem, I installed my pony projectors but for some reason the ones on the driver side door the next day everything on the door is out of power.... not even the door sensor is on so the window is in the open position and my speaker wont play I dont know what happen I wired everything the same as the passanger and the passanger door works even with the pony light.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:36 AM   #22
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Sounds like you blew a fuse....check the fuse box for a blown fuse. What did you hook the lamps to?
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Old 10-13-2013, 03:46 AM   #23
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Sounds like you blew a fuse....check the fuse box for a blown fuse. What did you hook the lamps to?
I belive it was the wires heading to the door sensor so it would only turn on when id open the door, I checked the fuses they all seem to be ok... I am not sure which fuse is for the driver door itself though so i checked all of them and seem fine.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:44 AM   #24
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I belive it was the wires heading to the door sensor so it would only turn on when id open the door, I checked the fuses they all seem to be ok... I am not sure which fuse is for the driver door itself though so i checked all of them and seem fine.
Where was your splice, in the door or cabin area? Take it apart again and remove your splice, re-wire it back to factory and check if everything is working again. If the fuses are good than returning the wiring back should resolve your problem. Before doing any wiring you should always be 100% sure of what wires you are tapping into, if not you can run into big problems! If the problem is solved I would suggest tapping into the map light, it will work exactly how you want it to and is also in an area where you don't have to worry about moisture or moving parts like a door. Its very easy to do and easily accessible. Good luck.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:43 PM   #25
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Maybe it was wrong color electrical tape? 😝 Yup take the panel back off and see if you have a good connection. Putting the panel back on might of caught the wire and disconnected. If everything else is getting power but the door, it has to be the connection in the door, ecspecially if the fuses are all good.
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Old 10-13-2013, 02:23 PM   #26
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Where was your splice, in the door or cabin area? Take it apart again and remove your splice, re-wire it back to factory and check if everything is working again. If the fuses are good than returning the wiring back should resolve your problem. Before doing any wiring you should always be 100% sure of what wires you are tapping into, if not you can run into big problems! If the problem is solved I would suggest tapping into the map light, it will work exactly how you want it to and is also in an area where you don't have to worry about moisture or moving parts like a door. Its very easy to do and easily accessible. Good luck.
Door area I took the wire out and doesn't seem to be any fuses blown... still no power...
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:40 PM   #27
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Check all the fuses they are all fine... check the fuses for the driver mirror and locks and they have power and are fine... I think it could be a burned wire...
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:00 PM   #28
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Might be a stupid question but did you make sure you plugged everything back in when put the door panel back on?
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:29 AM   #29
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He just rubbed me the wrong way this morning, no big deal. I'm glad too hear it went well, but don't make my mistake of posting pictures with your white electrical tape job. Lol. How long did it take?
Just going with what any shop manual informs us to do these days; they will explain the proper way to make electrical connections, which do not include electrical tape wrapped the way your pictures indicate. All are soldered and heat shrinked. Even the popular butt connectors used in many wiring kits are not recommended; they become loose, and/or allow moisture into the connection.

That was all I was trying to get across to those that wish to avoid potential electrical problems down the road. I've done some bad splices on cars I've owned in prior years, and had them fail me. One caused my entire dash to burn up (the electrical circuit board for the guages on a 71 Chevelle).

Sorry it "rubbed" you the wrong way. I only meant to explain how something is done correctly and avoid an electrical gremlin later.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:32 AM   #30
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Might be a stupid question but did you make sure you plugged everything back in when put the door panel back on?
Yeah everything is plugged I tested the wires for power and nothing but the fuses for the driver door motor has power so idk where the loss of power starts idk how just the driver door loses power. ..
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:05 AM   #31
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Just going with what any shop manual informs us to do these days; they will explain the proper way to make electrical connections, which do not include electrical tape wrapped the way your pictures indicate. All are soldered and heat shrinked. Even the popular butt connectors used in many wiring kits are not recommended; they become loose, and/or allow moisture into the connection.

That was all I was trying to get across to those that wish to avoid potential electrical problems down the road. I've done some bad splices on cars I've owned in prior years, and had them fail me. One caused my entire dash to burn up (the electrical circuit board for the guages on a 71 Chevelle).

Sorry it "rubbed" you the wrong way. I only meant to explain how something is done correctly and avoid an electrical gremlin later.
I'm an electronics engineer and despise the electrical tape use. It really is a temporary thing. Especially in vehicles where hot/cold constantly degrades the adhesive. Most people just ignore heat shrink because they do not want to LOOk for it in the first place or do not know what it is. Also they don't have a heatgun (the wife's hair dryer works fine too).

Its your car do as you wish but I sure as hell wouldn't want ford covering exposed wire with electrical tape....so why the hell would I do it!
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:16 PM   #32
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I'm an electronics engineer and despise the electrical tape use. It really is a temporary thing. Especially in vehicles where hot/cold constantly degrades the adhesive. Most people just ignore heat shrink because they do not want to LOOk for it in the first place or do not know what it is. Also they don't have a heatgun (the wife's hair dryer works fine too).

Its your car do as you wish but I sure as hell wouldn't want ford covering exposed wire with electrical tape....so why the hell would I do it!
You guys totally crack me up, ITS A 12V DOME LIGHT IN AN AREA WHERE NOTHING WILL EVER TOUCH IT OR WILL IT EVER MOVE!!!! get over yourselves already! Holy crap!!!!! Lmao! Red electrical tape warns electricians that it's a higher voltage line than the standard 110v....so I think covering a 12v line it will perform fine. "Roll eyes"
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:08 PM   #33
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You guys totally crack me up, ITS A 12V DOME LIGHT IN AN AREA WHERE NOTHING WILL EVER TOUCH IT OR WILL IT EVER MOVE!!!! get over yourselves already! Holy crap!!!!! Lmao! Red electrical tape warns electricians that it's a higher voltage line than the standard 110v....so I think covering a 12v line it will perform fine. "Roll eyes"
I agree I'm just ocd lol ur fine
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Old 10-14-2013, 02:29 PM   #34
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I still can't find a solution to my door not having power any suggestions....
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:59 PM   #35
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I still can't find a solution to my door not having power any suggestions....
Have you used a volt meter to see if it's getting power? I'm not sure if that's what it's called but the meter that has a red and black probes on it
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