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Old 10-19-2013, 03:20 PM   #36
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Ya but your taxes paid for it
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:18 PM   #37
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I'm going to a Chevy n ford dealership today. I'm gonna drive the new camaro ss and a 5.0 and Shelby. I'm lookin forward to driving them.
That dealership lets you test drive a shelby? All the ones in my area didn't allow test drives.

Money can make any car fast, my buddy's 1999 Acura TL is incredibly fast. He's done so much stuff to it, it shouldn't even be considered an Acura anymore. Then again he's the type of guy that can rip his engine out of the car blindfolded
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:41 PM   #38
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:24 PM   #39
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Sell it and buy a coyote lol

---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------



Ha! That is too true
I like my 4.6 V8 it's a good motor PLUS I love my car and prefer the styling over the 2010 and UP so , NO I'm not selling ANYTHING lol...

SUPERCHARGED the 4.6 CAN PRODUCE OVER 600HP with the right set up , I don't need that much power my question was , how much $$$$ to get 450 RWHP N/A.
out of MY motor.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:38 PM   #40
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I like my 4.6 V8 it's a good motor PLUS I love my car and prefer the styling over the 2010 and UP so , NO I'm not selling ANYTHING lol...

SUPERCHARGED the 4.6 CAN PRODUCE OVER 600HP with the right set up , I don't need that much power my question was , how much $$$$ to get 450 RWHP N/A.
out of MY motor.
Have you thought about nitrous?
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:06 PM   #41
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I like my 4.6 V8 it's a good motor PLUS I love my car and prefer the styling over the 2010 and UP so , NO I'm not selling ANYTHING lol...

SUPERCHARGED the 4.6 CAN PRODUCE OVER 600HP with the right set up , I don't need that much power my question was , how much $$$$ to get 450 RWHP N/A.
out of MY motor.
Don't take this the wrong way but I don't see how in gods green earth your gonna pull 450 rwhp N/A on a 4.6 engine. Your making what 260 to 265 rwhp stock. That's what my 2011 3.7 is making to the wheels from factory. Your 4.6 motor is making 300 HP to the crank. 315 HP if its a 2010 which I know yours is not because you don't like the 10 plus body style.

The only way your 4.6 motor is making 450 rwhp is by getting nitrous, super or turbo charger. No way being N/A on your engine.
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:47 PM   #42
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No. Not possible. Not even close. I dyno 297 rwhp on my 2011 3.7 and short of a throttle body, I have every other bolt on power mod. No way 400 rwhp N/A on the 3.7 motor.
You have the bolt ons. Nothing internal yet.

Didn't someone port the intake and gain something like 20whp? Also, I thought I read these Cyclone engines were designed to be able to go up to 4.0L? Then I have also read talk about having the cams reground for a bit more top end.

If you could take all that into account, I could see a 3.7 being bored/stroked to 4.0L with higher compression. That along with the other things taken into account, putting down 330 - 350 whp does seem possible NA. Expensive, yet entirely possible.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:16 PM   #43
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You have the bolt ons. Nothing internal yet.

Didn't someone port the intake and gain something like 20whp? Also, I thought I read these Cyclone engines were designed to be able to go up to 4.0L? Then I have also read talk about having the cams reground for a bit more top end.

If you could take all that into account, I could see a 3.7 being bored/stroked to 4.0L with higher compression. That along with the other things taken into account, putting down 330 - 350 whp does seem possible NA. Expensive, yet entirely possible.
I would agree with you having a chance at 330 to 350 but 400 or 450 rwhp not gonna happen. Lmao. Correct, no internal work done yet but have plenty bolt on mods. Lol. I have not ported the intake. If I could get 20rwhp by porting the intake , that would interest me very much. Does anyone know how much it would cost to port and polish the intake?
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #44
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I can't find who does it. I want to say it's something like lone wolf performance or something like that who does it.

Anyone know?
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #45
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I can't find who does it. I want to say it's something like lone wolf performance or something like that who does it.

Anyone know?
Does anyone know what real world power gains one can get from porting the intake. It would go nice with my full exhaust set up.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:28 PM   #46
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Found the thread about it ..

Lone wolf ported intakes installed - Ford Mustang Forums
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by 2011 Kona Blue View Post
Don't take this the wrong way but I don't see how in gods green earth your gonna pull 450 rwhp N/A on a 4.6 engine. Your making what 260 to 265 rwhp stock. That's what my 2011 3.7 is making to the wheels from factory. Your 4.6 motor is making 300 HP to the crank. 315 HP if its a 2010 which I know yours is not because you don't like the 10 plus body style.

The only way your 4.6 motor is making 450 rwhp is by getting nitrous, super or turbo charger. No way being N/A on your engine.
No it can... He just needs very very deep pockets.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:45 PM   #48
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No it can... He just needs very very deep pockets.
Define deep pockets. Lol. Price tag.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:50 PM   #49
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Define deep pockets. Lol. Price tag.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:54 PM   #50
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Is porting your intake worth doing on a
N/A motor with just bolt on mods?
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:55 PM   #51
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Taken from page 11, post #157 of the thread I listed earlier ..


z28th1s

The car made peak torque of 280 lb-ft at 4,200 and 5,600 RPM's.

Before the port work the car made 270+ RWTQ from 3,900-4,700 (800 RPM's).

After the port work the car makes 270+ RWTQ from 3,800-5,900 (2,100 RPM's).

The car makes 300+ RWHP from 5,600-6,800 RPM's.

At 5,000 RPM's the car is making +12 RWHP and +12 RWTQ after the port work.

At 5,500 RPM's the car is making +20 RWHP and +17 RWTQ after the port work.

At 6,000 RPM's the car is making +15 RWHP and +12 RWTQ after the port work.

At 6,500 RPM's the car is making +12 RWHP and +10 RWTQ after the port work.


Sounds promising.
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #52
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Define deep pockets. Lol. Price tag.
Way too much lol
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:12 PM   #53
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Way too much lol
Lmao.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:28 PM   #54
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It's true. I would bet an LSx swap into an 11+ Mustang V6 would be cheaper than swapping in a 5.0. Also, in doing that you could rid yourself of the MT82 and go T56.
You can get a t-56 magnum XL for the 5.0
With your choice of a 2.97 first gear or 2.66
You're welcome

---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------

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The reason I like LS engines (still hate the actual cars, except corvette) is that they are smaller, lighter, and much cheaper/ easier to build.
The coyote is an all aluminum engine...
Weighing in at about 200ish pounds
The 3.7 is about 150ish...
Which is lighter again? Hahahaha

Te 4,6 is just under 500 lbs

---------- Post added at 11:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by Ish416 View Post
You have the bolt ons. Nothing internal yet. Didn't someone port the intake and gain something like 20whp? Also, I thought I read these Cyclone engines were designed to be able to go up to 4.0L? Then I have also read talk about having the cams reground for a bit more top end. If you could take all that into account, I could see a 3.7 being bored/stroked to 4.0L with higher compression. That along with the other things taken into account, putting down 330 - 350 whp does seem possible NA. Expensive, yet entirely possible.
I wouldn't bore it...
The block is aluminum, so it's already weaker :p
It's reinforced and all, but it's still weaker...
Unless you're 100% sure that you're staying NA
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:42 AM   #55
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You can get a t-56 magnum XL for the 5.0
With your choice of a 2.97 first gear or 2.66
You're welcome

---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------


The coyote is an all aluminum engine...
Weighing in at about 200ish pounds
The 3.7 is about 150ish...
Which is lighter again? Hahahaha

Te 4,6 is just under 500 lbs

---------- Post added at 11:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------


I wouldn't bore it...
The block is aluminum, so it's already weaker :p
It's reinforced and all, but it's still weaker...
Unless you're 100% sure that you're staying NA
Next year I'll super charge her done deal 5.0 not needed.
I'll likely spend 10 k but..... massive power . ANY 5.0 will be looking
quite weak once I'm done with my 4.6 supercharged BEAST. LOL......
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:23 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by alrefire View Post
You can get a t-56 magnum XL for the 5.0
With your choice of a 2.97 first gear or 2.66
You're welcome

---------- Post added at 11:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 PM ----------


The coyote is an all aluminum engine...
Weighing in at about 200ish pounds
The 3.7 is about 150ish...
Which is lighter again? Hahahaha

Te 4,6 is just under 500 lbs

---------- Post added at 11:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------


I wouldn't bore it...
The block is aluminum, so it's already weaker :p
It's reinforced and all, but it's still weaker...
Unless you're 100% sure that you're staying NA
Maybe the block lol, the entire engine is just under 450 pounds.
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:33 AM   #57
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Next year I'll super charge her done deal 5.0 not needed.
I'll likely spend 10 k but..... massive power . ANY 5.0 will be looking
quite weak once I'm done with my 4.6 supercharged BEAST. LOL......
Brave words there. Just go power adder. Or you will be highly disappointed, staying NA with a 3v 4.6
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:05 AM   #58
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Really modulars are not meant to be NA, if you want an NA car you should get a push rod. Modulars want/need some type of FI
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Old 10-20-2013, 07:51 AM   #59
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Brave words there. Just go power adder. Or you will be highly disappointed, staying NA with a 3v 4.6


Not brave words I had it planned for a while just looked at a few options but in reality to get MASSIVE POWER supercharging is the ticket.
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:08 AM   #60
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Not brave words I had it planned for a while just looked at a few options but in reality to get MASSIVE POWER supercharging is the ticket.
What are you considering massive power?
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:39 PM   #61
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What are you considering massive power?
Not considering WILL HAPPEN minimum 450 rwhp , any more and transmission will have to be upgraded , motor internals etc...
so considering parasitic loss of around 20% on a auto s 197 , crank HP
will be around 550. So with my budged of 10 K , no problem
smaller pulley can be added and a tune I'm leaning towards Edelbrook
E- FORCE supercharger system , it is supposed to be very reliable and safe power.
Plus it utilizes a roots style BLOWER same used in the ZR1.

There is a guy on American muscle .com mustang shoot out who has 620 RWHP( around 750 HP at the crank) in his S197 4.6 L V8 , that kind of power would be hard to manage even with my 295's in the rear , what a BEAST THOUGH. In third gear he has a auto too he can roast the tires at 60 mph. when punched , insane.

I guess there is such a thing as OVERKILL.
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:45 PM   #62
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Not considering WILL HAPPEN minimum 450 rwhp , any more and transmission will have to be upgraded , motor internals etc...
so considering parasitic loss of around 20% on a auto s 197 , crank HP
will be around 550. So with my budged of 10 K , no problem
smaller pulley can be added and a tune I'm leaning towards Edelbrook
E- FORCE supercharger system , it is supposed to be very reliable and safe power.
Plus it utilizes a roots style BLOWER same used in the ZR1.

There is a guy on American muscle .com mustang shoot out who has 620 RWHP in his S197 , that kind of power would be hard to manage even with my 295's in the rear , what a BEAST THOUGH. In third gear he has a auto too he can roast the tires at 60 mph. when punched , insane.

I guess there is such a thing as OVERKILL.
450rwhp is not massive hp. And you wont have to go forged if your goal is only 450rwhp. Plus if your budget is 10k and you only get 450, something is wrong. 10k is enough to do whatever u want
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:10 PM   #63
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450rwhp is not massive hp. And you wont have to go forged if your goal is only 450rwhp. Plus if your budget is 10k and you only get 450, something is wrong. 10k is enough to do whatever u want


Not really just the supercharger kit is almost 7 K with taxes and shipping , then there is the install..... I guess I could build my motor up/trans for 10 k and PERHAPS GET MORE HP , BUT I like the whine of a SUPERCHARGER and 550 HP at the crank is pretty damn good power considering my car only weighs in at 3480 pds. , I'm trying to find a happy medium between BIG power and DRIVEABILITY .
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:00 PM   #64
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Not really just the supercharger kit is almost 7 K with taxes and shipping , then there is the install..... I guess I could build my motor up/trans for 10 k and PERHAPS GET MORE HP , BUT I like the whine of a SUPERCHARGER and 550 HP at the crank is pretty damn good power considering my car only weighs in at 3480 pds. , I'm trying to find a happy medium between BIG power and DRIVEABILITY .
Go with the whipple then. Not the eforce.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:04 PM   #65
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I am not bashing Edelbrock, but I speak from experience when I say to stay away from the eforce for the 4.6 mustang.

I just finished installing one on an 05 and it was a complete nightmare, from wrong parts, to incorrect instructions, I was completely disgusted with their product

I did some decent research prior to buying mine and didn't find much trouble except for the early ones.

Boy was I surprised when I started my install.

I wish someone had warned me.

Just my opinion, hope it helps.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:27 PM   #66
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I am not bashing Edelbrock, but I speak from experience when I say to stay away from the eforce for the 4.6 mustang.

I just finished installing one on an 05 and it was a complete nightmare, from wrong parts, to incorrect instructions, I was completely disgusted with their product

I did some decent research prior to buying mine and didn't find much trouble except for the early ones.

Boy was I surprised when I started my install.

I wish someone had warned me.

Just my opinion, hope it helps.


Thanks for the tip , I did a lot of reading too most liked it and the look under the hood is quite nice whipple hmmm.. maybe you just had bad luck ???
Wrong parts so you had to order more / correct parts ? How long did it take you to install ? So how is it working now????
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:33 AM   #67
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My car is an early 05 (12/04 build date). Their bracket for the alternator relocation did not fit around my water pump pulley, so I had to order a water pump pulley for an 06 and as it turns out, the 05 crank pulley is smaller than the later models so I had to order a new pulley/balancer too (from Ford).

They sent me the wrong harnesses for their own supercharger tmap sensor. Somewhere in Edelbrock's production they decided to go from a harness that you had to change plugs by de-pinning your factory harness, to a "plug and play" type harness. Great idea except they never upgraded their instructions in the same box and their new harness doesn't fit their older superchargers. So after I go step by step and depin my harnesses, I discover that the harness they sent me plugged right in. Their tech guy (Kyle) brushed it off as "oh you need to print a newer set of instructions off our website. The problem with that is, the newer instructions aren't for the older supercharger, they are only for the newer harness and the newer unit. Hence my nightmare began.

They didn't send an alternator main wire as they showed in the instructions. This was not a big deal as I was able to relocate and reuse my old alternator main wire.

The bolts they send for mounting the fuel rails to their supercharger body, are the wrong thread and ridiculously too long. You can't reuse the stock ones (studs) either. I found some non matching bolts in my toolbox that worked but they look unacceptable and I shouldn't have had to do that.

Back to the tmap sensor. On my supercharger there is a ford sensor located on top of the unit on the driver's side top. On the newer units they must have changed this design and added a sensor on the passenger's side rear. Well, the newer harness I have (in my older kit) has the plug for the newer style sensor which doesn't exist on my supercharger. There isn't even a tapped hole on my supercharger so that I could add the sensor if they sent one to me. The plug doesn't physically fit my older style sensor on top. I still haven't heard back from them on what to do about that.

The relay for the intercooler coolant pump doesn't mount where they claim it will in the instructions. There just isn't enough threads sticking thru at the location they describe.

They don't send new o-rings for the intake ports, which is ridiculous that they want you to reuse the almost 10 year old factory ones. Same deal with the thermostat housing. Really?? It's an oring.... What's the cost here??

The head of the bolt for the upper alternator relocation bracket is too big so that you can't possibly tighten the bracket without either bending it (which makes it no longer line up to the alternator hole) or grinding the washer on the head of the bolt down.

They have you cut out the bottom of your factory air box, which introduces a ton of underhood air in my opinion.

They tell you to make sure the supplied tuner has the latest update, yet there is no USB cable (no cable at all) included to update the tuner.

These are just a few of the issues off the top of my head, I have notes of frustration all over my instructions.

I eventually plan on typing up a complete review with pictures when I have a chance.

As far as how long did it take, I just started the car yesterday, it has been down for three weeks with all these issues that kept me from completing the job.

I have several codes,

iat because I can't plug it in,
Both cam sensors (no idea why)
And something about a pre-test

The reason I bought the eforce was because it appeared to be the only complete kit which didn't require modification to install.

Not what I expected for the $$$.

After pushing their tech department to come up with a solution for the pulleys, they did offer to take the unit back, however, the problems started at about step 100 where the car was significantly disassembled and I already had a bunch of parts on the car and modified. I had also thrown away the pallet and it was 163 bucks to ship it back had I been able to package it all back up.

If I had known how aggravating the whole project would have been, I would have put the car back stock at that point however and sent the unit back.

Lesson learned.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:24 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by 05Mystic View Post
My car is an early 05 (12/04 build date). Their bracket for the alternator relocation did not fit around my water pump pulley, so I had to order a water pump pulley for an 06 and as it turns out, the 05 crank pulley is smaller than the later models so I had to order a new pulley/balancer too (from Ford).

They sent me the wrong harnesses for their own supercharger tmap sensor. Somewhere in Edelbrock's production they decided to go from a harness that you had to change plugs by de-pinning your factory harness, to a "plug and play" type harness. Great idea except they never upgraded their instructions in the same box and their new harness doesn't fit their older superchargers. So after I go step by step and depin my harnesses, I discover that the harness they sent me plugged right in. Their tech guy (Kyle) brushed it off as "oh you need to print a newer set of instructions off our website. The problem with that is, the newer instructions aren't for the older supercharger, they are only for the newer harness and the newer unit. Hence my nightmare began.

They didn't send an alternator main wire as they showed in the instructions. This was not a big deal as I was able to relocate and reuse my old alternator main wire.

The bolts they send for mounting the fuel rails to their supercharger body, are the wrong thread and ridiculously too long. You can't reuse the stock ones (studs) either. I found some non matching bolts in my toolbox that worked but they look unacceptable and I shouldn't have had to do that.

Back to the tmap sensor. On my supercharger there is a ford sensor located on top of the unit on the driver's side top. On the newer units they must have changed this design and added a sensor on the passenger's side rear. Well, the newer harness I have (in my older kit) has the plug for the newer style sensor which doesn't exist on my supercharger. There isn't even a tapped hole on my supercharger so that I could add the sensor if they sent one to me. The plug doesn't physically fit my older style sensor on top. I still haven't heard back from them on what to do about that.

The relay for the intercooler coolant pump doesn't mount where they claim it will in the instructions. There just isn't enough threads sticking thru at the location they describe.

They don't send new o-rings for the intake ports, which is ridiculous that they want you to reuse the almost 10 year old factory ones. Same deal with the thermostat housing. Really?? It's an oring.... What's the cost here??

The head of the bolt for the upper alternator relocation bracket is too big so that you can't possibly tighten the bracket without either bending it (which makes it no longer line up to the alternator hole) or grinding the washer on the head of the bolt down.

They have you cut out the bottom of your factory air box, which introduces a ton of underhood air in my opinion.

They tell you to make sure the supplied tuner has the latest update, yet there is no USB cable (no cable at all) included to update the tuner.

These are just a few of the issues off the top of my head, I have notes of frustration all over my instructions.

I eventually plan on typing up a complete review with pictures when I have a chance.

As far as how long did it take, I just started the car yesterday, it has been down for three weeks with all these issues that kept me from completing the job.

I have several codes,

iat because I can't plug it in,
Both cam sensors (no idea why)
And something about a pre-test

The reason I bought the eforce was because it appeared to be the only complete kit which didn't require modification to install.

Not what I expected for the $$$.

After pushing their tech department to come up with a solution for the pulleys, they did offer to take the unit back, however, the problems started at about step 100 where the car was significantly disassembled and I already had a bunch of parts on the car and modified. I had also thrown away the pallet and it was 163 bucks to ship it back had I been able to package it all back up.

If I had known how aggravating the whole project would have been, I would have put the car back stock at that point however and sent the unit back.

Lesson learned.
Wow you had some massive problems with the install no doubt , and I thought they were plug and play systems obviously not . I'm not so sure of this product now even if I had it professionally installed they would have similar issues as you .

I wonder if there is anyone on this board that has a whipple supercharger system for a 05-09 in there car and how they like that set up , I'm starting to lean towards that IF it is less problematic.

I would be pissed off too if I went through all that stuff and poor customer service to boot. After spending all that money there shouldn't be problems like that on a COMPLETE system as they advertise.
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:30 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05Mystic View Post
My car is an early 05 (12/04 build date). Their bracket for the alternator relocation did not fit around my water pump pulley, so I had to order a water pump pulley for an 06 and as it turns out, the 05 crank pulley is smaller than the later models so I had to order a new pulley/balancer too (from Ford).

They sent me the wrong harnesses for their own supercharger tmap sensor. Somewhere in Edelbrock's production they decided to go from a harness that you had to change plugs by de-pinning your factory harness, to a "plug and play" type harness. Great idea except they never upgraded their instructions in the same box and their new harness doesn't fit their older superchargers. So after I go step by step and depin my harnesses, I discover that the harness they sent me plugged right in. Their tech guy (Kyle) brushed it off as "oh you need to print a newer set of instructions off our website. The problem with that is, the newer instructions aren't for the older supercharger, they are only for the newer harness and the newer unit. Hence my nightmare began.

They didn't send an alternator main wire as they showed in the instructions. This was not a big deal as I was able to relocate and reuse my old alternator main wire.

The bolts they send for mounting the fuel rails to their supercharger body, are the wrong thread and ridiculously too long. You can't reuse the stock ones (studs) either. I found some non matching bolts in my toolbox that worked but they look unacceptable and I shouldn't have had to do that.

Back to the tmap sensor. On my supercharger there is a ford sensor located on top of the unit on the driver's side top. On the newer units they must have changed this design and added a sensor on the passenger's side rear. Well, the newer harness I have (in my older kit) has the plug for the newer style sensor which doesn't exist on my supercharger. There isn't even a tapped hole on my supercharger so that I could add the sensor if they sent one to me. The plug doesn't physically fit my older style sensor on top. I still haven't heard back from them on what to do about that.

The relay for the intercooler coolant pump doesn't mount where they claim it will in the instructions. There just isn't enough threads sticking thru at the location they describe.

They don't send new o-rings for the intake ports, which is ridiculous that they want you to reuse the almost 10 year old factory ones. Same deal with the thermostat housing. Really?? It's an oring.... What's the cost here??

The head of the bolt for the upper alternator relocation bracket is too big so that you can't possibly tighten the bracket without either bending it (which makes it no longer line up to the alternator hole) or grinding the washer on the head of the bolt down.

They have you cut out the bottom of your factory air box, which introduces a ton of underhood air in my opinion.

They tell you to make sure the supplied tuner has the latest update, yet there is no USB cable (no cable at all) included to update the tuner.

These are just a few of the issues off the top of my head, I have notes of frustration all over my instructions.

I eventually plan on typing up a complete review with pictures when I have a chance.

As far as how long did it take, I just started the car yesterday, it has been down for three weeks with all these issues that kept me from completing the job.

I have several codes,

iat because I can't plug it in,
Both cam sensors (no idea why)
And something about a pre-test

The reason I bought the eforce was because it appeared to be the only complete kit which didn't require modification to install.

Not what I expected for the $$$.

After pushing their tech department to come up with a solution for the pulleys, they did offer to take the unit back, however, the problems started at about step 100 where the car was significantly disassembled and I already had a bunch of parts on the car and modified. I had also thrown away the pallet and it was 163 bucks to ship it back had I been able to package it all back up.

If I had known how aggravating the whole project would have been, I would have put the car back stock at that point however and sent the unit back.

Lesson learned.
Holy cow man. ^ Good grief.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:06 AM   #70
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Not considering WILL HAPPEN minimum 450 rwhp , any more and transmission will have to be upgraded , motor internals etc... so considering parasitic loss of around 20% on a auto s 197 , crank HP will be around 550. So with my budged of 10 K , no problem smaller pulley can be added and a tune I'm leaning towards Edelbrook E- FORCE supercharger system , it is supposed to be very reliable and safe power. Plus it utilizes a roots style BLOWER same used in the ZR1. There is a guy on American muscle .com mustang shoot out who has 620 RWHP( around 750 HP at the crank) in his S197 4.6 L V8 , that kind of power would be hard to manage even with my 295's in the rear , what a BEAST THOUGH. In third gear he has a auto too he can roast the tires at 60 mph. when punched , insane. I guess there is such a thing as OVERKILL.
450rwhp is baby power. And you can get that much with a $1500 vortech kit. 10k should get you to 7-800 maybe even more
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