Mustang Logo Puddle Lights - Rice or Nice? - Mustang Evolution

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Old 12-06-2013, 04:25 PM   #1
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Mustang Logo Puddle Lights - Rice or Nice?

My car didn't come with the running pony puddle lights. I found some after-market ones but with Mustang logos. Here is a link to what I'm talking about:

Ford Mustang LED Door Projector Courtesy Puddle Logo Lights - MR. KUSTOM CHICAGO CAR ACCESSORIES * AUTOMOTIVE ACCESSORIES * CUSTOMIZING CARS * AUTO WINDOW TINTING CHICAGO * HALO HEADLIGHTS CHICAGO * CUSTOM WHEELS * CAR HID LIGHTS * TONNEAU COVERS *LE

While I like them, I don't want my car to look too cheesy. For $30.00, they are a pretty inexpensive mod. As a compromise, I'm thinking about installing with a tiny on/off switch on the dash near the headlight switch so I can disable them if I want to be more "low-key."

What do you all think? Rice or nice?
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #2
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I have and loved them until they stopped working. I need to get another set
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Old 12-06-2013, 05:47 PM   #3
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I have them. They are nice, but the really good thing about them is the pleasure they give kids. Kids love them.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:26 AM   #4
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I love mine also. Very easy install and very cheap to replace. 15$ shipped to my door.

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Old 12-07-2013, 10:34 AM   #5
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Look pretty good. . . Is there install instructions with them? Battery operated or splice the wiring?
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:38 AM   #6
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Thanks, its was taken in my cramped garage, it looks really good at night. It came with instructions and the special bit for the hole that needs to be drilled into the door panel. I spliced mine into the map lights. It was a real easy install that takes only a couple of hours to do.
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Old 12-07-2013, 10:48 AM   #7
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I love mine
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Old 12-07-2013, 01:14 PM   #8
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In the midst of the installation now and hit a snag. For those of you who have done this or have added new door speakers ... HELP!!! I am having trouble figuring out how to run wire from the body into the door. I have the door apart and can get wire to the rubber tube that goes between the body and door (door side). On the cabin side, however, it looks like the rubber tube is behind the solid sheet metal of the frame. What am I missing?

BTW: this is a 2011.
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:38 AM   #9
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Can you get a wire clothes hanger from the door side to the body side (passing through the rubber tube)? I've done this before to "snake" the wire through. In your case, start with the door side, tape the wire to the hanger, and push it trough the door/rubber tube towards the body to see if that gets you past the "solid sheet metal". There has to ba a passage way, as the wires for the door lock/power windows make it from the cabin to the door.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #10
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I like them...but I could possibly still be in the "kid" category!
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:09 AM   #11
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Can you get a wire clothes hanger from the door side to the body side (passing through the rubber tube)? I've done this before to "snake" the wire through. In your case, start with the door side, tape the wire to the hanger, and push it trough the door/rubber tube towards the body to see if that gets you past the "solid sheet metal". There has to ba a passage way, as the wires for the door lock/power windows make it from the cabin to the door.
I went so far as disconnecting the rubber tube from the body side to investigate. What I found was a multi-connection Molex connector that seems to have been a way that Ford made assembly of the car quicker: they wired the body to the connector at the door and wired the door to a connector at the hinge area - when they added the doors they just "plugged" the connectors together and presto. The problem is that there are no access holes through the connector.

I found this online and, while it isn't a Mustang, the pictures give the idea. How to wire through a door molex.

I'm afraid that drilling a hole in an electrical connector that I can't even see clearly doesn't make me comfortable. What I have to weigh at this point is whether I really want to spring for a "pro" to install a impulse buy $30 part or whether the shelf in my garage will have a new decoration.

I can look at the bright side, though: I already wired an on/off switch to the dash panel right next to the headlight switch. It looks really nice ... and does absolutely NOTHING. I can tell people that switch arms the JATO rocket for maaaad acceleration. (or arms the passenger-side ejection seat, depending who is riding with me.)
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:43 AM   #12
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Haha. Sorry bro. They will all think its NOS anyway. Had a line lock on/off toggle in my Goat and everyone thought it was NOS!
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:49 AM   #13
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I'm suprised that a few others have not chimed in to say how they did this install, as about 5 or 6 months ago, a thread was started from another member on these projection lights. They were bought off of Ebay from a seller in China for around the same price as yours ($15.00). Several ordered them and could not wait to install.

Never hrard back from any of them on a post (or that same one) as to any difficulties.

Can they be connected to a power lead that feeds the power window switch? The problem with this is where to mount the switch to turn on/off the projection lights; the switch would have to be on the door panel since you cannot get a wire fed through the door to the cabin area where your switch is now. The factory ones mounted under the side mirrors, and would turn on when the doors where opened. Did you check to see if there is wiring that runs to the side mirrors? There should be, at least to operate the power adjustable side mirrors. Maybe there is an additional wire(s) that would be there for the factory projection light, but it would also depend on the year. This option was available I believe in 2013 and up.
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:36 PM   #14
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...Did you check to see if there is wiring that runs to the side mirrors? There should be, at least to operate the power adjustable side mirrors. Maybe there is an additional wire(s) that would be there for the factory projection light, but it would also depend on the year. This option was available I believe in 2013 and up.
That is an interesting thought. I was originally planning to splice into the dome light circuit in the passenger side A-pillar. That way the lights would come on when the doors open and would turn off (after a few seconds) when closed. My switch override was just to go stealth but starting to look like I have to engineer a space shuttle to make it work so backing down on the idea. Going to look into your suggestion of mirror circuit.
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:55 PM   #15
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That is an interesting thought. I was originally planning to splice into the dome light circuit in the passenger side A-pillar. That way the lights would come on when the doors open and would turn off (after a few seconds) when closed. My switch override was just to go stealth but starting to look like I have to engineer a space shuttle to make it work so backing down on the idea. Going to look into your suggestion of mirror circuit.
I went with the dome lights on my install. I also ran into the problem of running the wire from the door to the car. (black tube problem) The problem I saw with going through the tube was it runs beside the dash and I wasn't going to start to remove it. So I simply ran the wire along the tube.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:05 PM   #16
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I went with the dome lights on my install. I also ran into the problem of running the wire from the door to the car. (black tube problem) The problem I saw with going through the tube was it runs beside the dash and I wasn't going to start to remove it. So I simply ran the wire along the tube.
same here that's all I did. Just ran it new to the black tube. No one ever sees it.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:50 PM   #17
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same here that's all I did. Just ran it new to the black tube. No one ever sees it.
+1Thats what I was thinking.
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:55 AM   #18
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I'm too much of a neat freak; I'd have to get it through the tube, or use a power lead that's already in the door.
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:38 AM   #19
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I'm too much of a neat freak; I'd have to get it through the tube, or use a power lead that's already in the door.

Someone did use a power lead from the door, I cannot remember his name but everything on his door went dead. Window,locks, etc. I'm not sure how the pre 13s are but if you open the door of a 13 you'll see that the "black tube" runs into the car beside the dash which Imo would be better left alone than removing the dash. It might cause more problems than its worth and like we were saying its really not noticeable.
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:35 PM   #20
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Someone did use a power lead from the door, I cannot remember his name but everything on his door went dead. Window,locks, etc. I'm not sure how the pre 13s are but if you open the door of a 13 you'll see that the "black tube" runs into the car beside the dash which Imo would be better left alone than removing the dash. It might cause more problems than its worth and like we were saying its really not noticeable.
That "someone" had to have performed a wiring disaster to have killed the power in the door. A simple volt/ohm meter or even a lighted power probe can help out in this area.

The best though isn having the factory wiring diagrams. Almost a must for anyone doing these types of mods. If you are savy, they can be had for free with some Google searching...
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #21
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That "someone" had to have performed a wiring disaster to have killed the power in the door. A simple volt/ohm meter or even a lighted power probe can help out in this area.

The best though isn having the factory wiring diagrams. Almost a must for anyone doing these types of mods. If you are savy, they can be had for free with some Google searching...
I think he must have performed a wiring disaster, last I remember he was taking it to the dealer after checking all the fuses with no luck. My only biff with using a power source from the door is that you would have to have a switch to turn them on/off. Unfortunately we don't have a light in our door that comes on as the door is opened and off as it is closed, like many cars do.That would be the ideal set up to splice off.
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Old 12-13-2013, 04:12 AM   #22
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This was why I mentioned the 2013 and up model years, as these puddle lights are options, so maybe they are prewired.
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Old 12-13-2013, 05:56 AM   #23
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This was why I mentioned the 2013 and up model years, as these puddle lights are options, so maybe they are prewired.
Quite possible, I did not remove my mirrors to see if there were any leads for them.
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Old 06-08-2014, 10:00 AM   #24
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Has anyone discovered if these can be run off the wiring harness for the 2013's and I just took on this project and have a 2013.

Upon further research I have found that even the 13 basic GT's have the 7 wire wiring connectors for the heated mirrors as well as the puddle lamps.

Since I am using an after market puddle lamp the mounts in the door I am curious if anyone knows which 2 of the 7 wires are for the puddle lamps. It seems it would save a lot of work wiring them to the dome light.
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Old 07-16-2014, 04:24 AM   #25
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After trying all the listed locations to obtain power within the door on a 2014 V6, some working at reduced voltage after connecting, gave up and wired to reading lights. Perfect now.


It is pretty easy to run wires from door to body as the rubber tube, grommets and retainers come apart for servicing. Takes less than 15 minutes.


Push rubber boot lip at door, between frame and door, into car door. It is easy to pull back out. Note the UP on the rubber boot when pushed to normal. Pull other end of rubber boot away from body frame plastic grommet. You can move boot into door, but do NOT let entire boot fall into door.


With flat screwdriver, Push up on tab located in the bottom/middle of plastic grommet going into body. Grommet can then be tilted up and out, away from body. To gain additional working room, slightly close door while working grommet and wires out of body. Push other plastic tab to separate outer grommet retainer section from inner grommet section.


Now you can move outer grommet retainer plastic section to better drill a small hole into it. You will easily see how once you view the parts. Drill hole into one of the small corners, so that a wire can pass through, from outside to inside. This is not any sort of electrical connection, so no fears.


With boot and grommet still pulled away from frame, run wire into body opening, twisting it upward to make it easier to see under removed internal kick panel. Grab wire inside car and pull some through. Go back to grommet. Clip grommet back together with main section. Run the other end of wire into drilled hole, heading toward door. Pull wire through boot into door.


You now have wire from inside of door to inside passenger compartment.
Attach boot to plastic body grommet like you put fitted sheets on a bed. This was the hardest part of the whole job with large hands. Had the wife do it, which took her about 5 minutes. After boot is correctly attached, clip boot/grommet back onto body. Pull boot out of door, then attach boot lip to door, noting the UP imprint on boot. Done.
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Old 07-16-2014, 04:33 AM   #26
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Nice write-up. Another trick to running a lead from the body to the inner door is to use a long tie wrap as w "snake". I tie the required wire(s) on one end, snake it through the body lower kick panel into the tube that runs to the door, and pull it through.

I've done this on several other vehicles when installing power for outside power mirrors, adding door locks and/or windows.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:58 AM   #27
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I just want to know if I can buy the OEM mirror from ford ?
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Old 08-27-2016, 09:43 PM   #28
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I want to install a set of courtesy lights. They are inexpensive, and amusing to some degree.

I am also going to install an LED strip for the tag light, put LED lighting in the trunk, and on the interior of my convertible. The mirror map lights could use some help.

An under hood light would be nice to have also in case I need to be under there at night.

I'm a musician. I have a thing for noise and lights. It has to be classy though. Elegance is the key to aweinspiring and stupid.

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