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Old 12-13-2013, 06:56 AM   #1
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Springs!

Couldn't find any decent info on this...

I have a stock manual '14 V6. I was looking into getting springs with these goals in mind:
Lower it ~1in (I don't want to swap the struts/shocks) and stiffen up the ride, reduce nose dive, better handling, etc.

So the plan is to pick up some springs, caster bolts, and a panhard bar.
It seems like a bunch of companies make these kinds of springs though- Steeda, Ford Racing, Eibach, SR... Not sure which would be best.
Also, there's the option between a progressive rate spring and the regular rate springs: anybody have input on this difference?

If it helps, I do mostly highway driving, and would prefer not to sacrifice ride quality toooo much.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:47 AM   #2
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Bump?
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:53 AM   #3
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With a small drop like that, CC bolts and a panhard bar should suffice.
The thing with suspension is that if you change anything, you'll throw something else out of alignment, and you'll have to change a part to correct that.
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Old 12-13-2013, 11:54 AM   #4
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I have eibach sportlines and I love the stance. It's perfect for me. I did not get the panhard bar yet but I will ASAP. Do it all at one time. If you have Instagram go search my name and you can see the stance.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:20 PM   #5
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Be safe and replace the UCA.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:35 PM   #6
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A progessive spring changes rates as force is apllied. They ride nearly like stock, but when pushed hard they work great. Def what u want.
I love my Steeda Ulta Lites. Lowered 1.25 front, and 1.5 rear (c pic). Rides like oem, but corners like on rails. Don't need caster plates, just the camber bolts (if any). U could wait on a pan hard bar if u had to. Mine only shifted about 1/4 inch...not even noticeable. Lower control arms and drop brackets will help hook since u loose traction when lowered due to the new geometry, but u could wait if u were strapped for cash too. Uca, not needed.
So, if u could only afford springs and camber bolts and an alignment, u will be ok. Just save for the rest later.
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Old 12-13-2013, 12:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear376 View Post
Be safe and replace the UCA.
Any details on why this is needed? First time hearing that, and I'm still unsure about the need for LCA/UCA etc. Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Getn off View Post
A progessive spring changes rates as force is apllied. They ride nearly like stock, but when pushed hard they work great. Def what u want.
I love my Steeda Ulta Lites. Lowered 1.25 front, and 1.5 rear (c pic). Rides like oem, but corners like on rails. Don't need caster plates, just the camber bolts (if any). U could wait on a pan hard bar if u had to. Mine only shifted about 1/4 inch...not even noticeable. Lower control arms and drop brackets will help hook since u loose traction when lowered due to the new geometry, but u could wait if u were strapped for cash too. Uca, not needed.
So, if u could only afford springs and camber bolts and an alignment, u will be ok. Just save for the rest later.
Gl,
Troy
Progressive rate sounds about right then! Thanks
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kutch View Post

Any details on why this is needed? First time hearing that, and I'm still unsure about the need for LCA/UCA etc.
I won't say I am an absolute expert but have been a whole lot of reading and studying from lots of sources. Here is what I understand of it: just swapping out UCA or LCAs with nonadjustable will improve your handling in corners but doesn't have anything to do with lowering. Adjustable is desirable when dropping a larger amount because it allows you to keep the angle between the rear diff and the drive shaft (pinion angle) in-spec but isn't really needed for small drops like with Eibach Prolines.

With Prolines, you should only need camber bolts (maybe but they are cheap so why not) and an adjustable panhard is desirable.
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Old 12-13-2013, 07:23 PM   #9
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The pinion angle is affected by any changes. A minor height change with the stock driveshaft, you should not see any issues, but once you switch driveshafts, the UCA needs replacing. And if you are doing anything to your suspension, you want to go with a one-piece driveshaft. are several decent brands of adjustable UCAs and they are not too expensive.
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:15 AM   #10
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Uca is only for the 05-10 right? I could find any for the rear for my 2011. For the front I found some. But not the rear.
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:20 AM   #11
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Uca is only for the 05-10 right? I could find any for the rear for my 2011. For the front I found some. But not the rear.
It looks like AM has about 3 options for our year. Here is one:

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...-uca-1113.html
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