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Old 01-04-2014, 07:09 PM   #1
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Help!!!! Bogging issue!

Ok so I have a 2012 mustang with 60k miles. Full exhaust,intake and tune. Just recently (not messed with anything) it started at idle wanting to bog down. I'll sit at about 900rpm then drops to 500-480 Any suggestion of what it might could be?

I'm already planning on changing spark plugs and coils to might see if that helps any. Just need to find time to do it.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:14 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by silvrbullet2012 View Post
Ok so I have a 2012 mustang with 60k miles. Full exhaust,intake and tune. Just recently (not messed with anything) it started at idle wanting to bog down. I'll sit at about 900rpm then drops to 500-480 Any suggestion of what it might could be?

I'm already planning on changing spark plugs and coils to might see if that helps any. Just need to find time to do it.

Check your MAF sensor. Might need to be cleaned.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:17 PM   #3
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Check your MAF sensor. Might need to be cleaned.

I feel dumb now. I didn't think of that first -_-
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #4
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I feel dumb now. I didn't think of that first -_-

No worries. Could be lots of things. Rule out the easy stuff first.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:35 PM   #5
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Check your MAF sensor. Might need to be cleaned.
Good call, my thought exactly. In 15 minutes, you should know one way or the other. Let us know if cleaning the MAF helps.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:12 PM   #6
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Is your idle @900?
I idle @ 530-550
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:33 PM   #7
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Is your idle @900?
I idle @ 530-550

It's roughly around 900. Maybe 850. Just when it hits 500 it wants to die.


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Good call, my thought exactly. In 15 minutes, you should know one way or the other. Let us know if cleaning the MAF helps.

I'm waiting for it to dry after using the MAF cleaner.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:52 PM   #8
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Mine used to do this when I 1st got my longtubes. Maybe u can data log & check the tune? I don't see why the tune would start doing it now all of a sudden bit it could be worth a look?
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:53 PM   #9
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Ok so I cleaned the sensor. Got some good and bad results. Good. My car feels a bit more responsive 👍 bad news is the bogging issue is still there
-_- and me and a friend narrowed it down.

Each time my compressor kicks on it makes my engine rpms go down. (Yes I use my A/C in the winter) Don't judge👊 lol. And when it's off it doesn't do it.

I would love to have a data log on my car but I don't have a laptop :/ 😔

So any suggestions? Is it going bad? I don't wanna go to the dealer just yet and them attempt to poke my eyes out.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:18 PM   #10
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Sounds crazy but try this::::::::::::

Disconnect your negative battery terminal for about fifteen minutes or more. It will allow your computers to reset. I'm pretty sure this may fix what is wrong.

I also use my air conditioner all winter.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:49 PM   #11
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Disconnect your negative battery terminal for about fifteen minutes or more. It will allow your computers to reset. I'm pretty sure this may fix what is wrong.

I also use my air conditioner all winter.
Ronnie

Ok. Just disconnected the battery. In about 30 min I'll head back out and see if it fixed it.
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:13 PM   #12
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Ok so I disconnected the battery for a bit. Drove it around and when I'm parked turned the ac on. It doesn't do it that horribly no more. Still there but not to the point of stalling out. Thanks!
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:44 PM   #13
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Ok so I disconnected the battery for a bit. Drove it around and when I'm parked turned the ac on. It doesn't do it that horribly no more. Still there but not to the point of stalling out. Thanks!
Good to hear it's slowly coming around! I would try cleaning both sides of the throttle body blade. Once you're finished, pull the negative battery terminal again before restarting. There's a chance the TB is a little clogged up and when you first restarted the ECM, it was able to completely compensate for the additional grime or clogged TB, allowing it to idle better.

Give this a try and see if it helps. It could be the answer!

Shane
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:51 PM   #14
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Good to hear it's slowly coming around! I would try cleaning both sides of the throttle body blade. Once you're finished, pull the negative battery terminal again before restarting. There's a chance the TB is a little clogged up and when you first restarted the ECM, it was able to completely compensate for the additional grime or clogged TB, allowing it to idle better.



Give this a try and see if it helps. It could be the answer!



Shane

Thanks! I'm going to be changing my spark plugs and new accel coils end of this week so while Im at it I'll give it a good cleaning if it's dirty.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:53 PM   #15
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Thanks! I'm going to be changing my spark plugs and new accel coils end of this week so while Im at it I'll give it a good cleaning if it's dirty.
The coils will fix ur surging idle. I can pretty much guarantee it. Make sure to gap the plugs correctly too!
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:14 PM   #16
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Other than it being annoying the slight surge when idol it will not hurt anything.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:17 PM   #17
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Thanks! I'm going to be changing my spark plugs and new accel coils end of this week so while Im at it I'll give it a good cleaning if it's dirty.
Sounds good to me. You'll have to keep us updated when you're finished. I hope to hear this is the answer!

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Old 01-08-2014, 11:28 AM   #18
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Ok so I cleaned the sensor. Got some good and bad results. Good. My car feels a bit more responsive 👍 bad news is the bogging issue is still there
-_- and me and a friend narrowed it down.

Each time my compressor kicks on it makes my engine rpms go down. (Yes I use my A/C in the winter) Don't judge👊 lol. And when it's off it doesn't do it.

I would love to have a data log on my car but I don't have a laptop :/ 😔

So any suggestions? Is it going bad? I don't wanna go to the dealer just yet and them attempt to poke my eyes out.
If you use the defroster setting on your car, the AC compressor will operate. This is per design. Auto manufacturers do it to help defrost the window quicker, plus it keeps the seals in the AC compressor soft, as to not create freon leaks come summer time.
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:46 PM   #19
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If you use the defroster setting on your car, the AC compressor will operate. This is per design. Auto manufacturers do it to help defrost the window quicker, plus it keeps the seals in the AC compressor soft, as to not create freon leaks come summer time.

True. I know of this. But it makes a surge to my car to the point it wants to stall out. My cars engine shakes. It's gotten better when I did the computer reset but still there. I'm hoping maybe the new coils and plugs will help a lil. Plus it's and excuse to buy more parts. Lol
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:24 PM   #20
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True. I know of this. But it makes a surge to my car to the point it wants to stall out. My cars engine shakes. It's gotten better when I did the computer reset but still there. I'm hoping maybe the new coils and plugs will help a lil. Plus it's and excuse to buy more parts. Lol
New coil and plugs definitely won't hurt, but I wouldn't purchase them assuming it's the problem. Especially when the car started acting smoother after the battery restart. To me it sounds like a defective sensor, or a clogged TB causing the TPS sensor to read inaccurately.

Again, I can tell you're excited to install new coils and plugs anyways, which is perfectly okay. I just wouldn't bet that this is the problem with the symptoms you're experience.

Regardless- I hope to hear good news in a few days. As I said before, keep me updated buddy!

Shane
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:36 PM   #21
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Mine does the same thing after I installed my long tube headers and off road x pipe. Mine slightly surges when car is idol and in park. No big deal.
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:55 PM   #22
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New coil and plugs definitely won't hurt, but I wouldn't purchase them assuming it's the problem. Especially when the car started acting smoother after the battery restart. To me it sounds like a defective sensor, or a clogged TB causing the TPS sensor to read inaccurately.



Again, I can tell you're excited to install new coils and plugs anyways, which is perfectly okay. I just wouldn't bet that this is the problem with the symptoms you're experience.



Regardless- I hope to hear good news in a few days. As I said before, keep me updated buddy!



Shane

I'll have an update in a few days after a good clean of the TB when I take it apart when I get the new coils. Thanks Shane!!
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:06 PM   #23
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mine did that all the time. i reloaded my tune but turned my idle up to 850 and it stopped doing it and hasnt done it since. problem solved, idles louder. double win.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:14 PM   #24
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mine did that all the time. i reloaded my tune but turned my idle up to 850 and it stopped doing it and hasnt done it since. problem solved, idles louder. double win.
How did you turn the idle up.? Never had the slight surge issue until the bbk headers were installed. Its just when parked.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:33 PM   #25
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after you select your tune it should give you the option to adjust settings or somethin like that. hit yes and scroll down to "idle neu" and "idle drive". set them to anything under 900ish. they have to match though.

---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

if you cant find it or it wont show up, just tell your tuner to send you another tune with the idle bumped up. i have the SF3/X3 tuner
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:36 PM   #26
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after you select your tune it should give you the option to adjust settings or somethin like that. hit yes and scroll down to "idle neu" and "idle drive". set them to anything under 900ish. they have to match though.

---------- Post added at 11:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 PM ----------

if you cant find it or it wont show up, just tell your tuner to send you another tune with the idle bumped up. i have the SF3/X3 tuner
And that solved your surge idle issue.
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:13 AM   #27
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New coil and plugs definitely won't hurt, but I wouldn't purchase them assuming it's the problem. Especially when the car started acting smoother after the battery restart. To me it sounds like a defective sensor, or a clogged TB causing the TPS sensor to read inaccurately.

Again, I can tell you're excited to install new coils and plugs anyways, which is perfectly okay. I just wouldn't bet that this is the problem with the symptoms you're experience.

Regardless- I hope to hear good news in a few days. As I said before, keep me updated buddy!

Shane
Good answer Shane. I get discouraged when I see posts informing someone to "change this" and "replace that" because "it worked for me". Tossing parts at a problem before it's properly diagnosed is a foolish and expensive way to repair a fault. Eventually, tossing parts at a problem will fix it, but at a high expense.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:07 AM   #28
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And that solved your surge idle issue.
yeah. like they said, when the compressor would kick in at a redlight or something, itd shudder and drop low in RPMs. i figured a little extra power at idle would take care of it, and it did. its worth a shot just to see if you can save yourself some cash.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:38 AM   #29
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yeah. like they said, when the compressor would kick in at a redlight or something, itd shudder and drop low in RPMs. i figured a little extra power at idle would take care of it, and it did. its worth a shot just to see if you can save yourself some cash.
Yeah. I'll try that.

---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 AM ----------

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yeah. like they said, when the compressor would kick in at a redlight or something, itd shudder and drop low in RPMs. i figured a little extra power at idle would take care of it, and it did. its worth a shot just to see if you can save yourself some cash.
Yeah. I'll try that. Thanks bro
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:25 PM   #30
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Good answer Shane. I get discouraged when I see posts informing someone to "change this" and "replace that" because "it worked for me". Tossing parts at a problem before it's properly diagnosed is a foolish and expensive way to repair a fault. Eventually, tossing parts at a problem will fix it, but at a high expense.
Agreed, it's never wise to shot gun parts at a problem until it's fixed. I always like to try the simple cleaning methods or whipping of KAM memory first. As it usually doesn't cost more than a canned cleaner chemical and a microfiber cloth.

Except sometimes when you've been wanting a particular product like coils and plugs anyways, it's a good excuse to take a chance. Although, that's more of a mental game to justify upgrades haha.

Shane



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How did you turn the idle up.? Never had the slight surge issue until the bbk headers were installed. Its just when parked.
2011 Kona Blue,

The Bama SF3 tuners usually don't have the user adjustments available on 2011+ Mustang tunes, as they prefer to have the customer contact them for the correct adjustments. If you're looking to raise the idle and you're not seeing any settings, you can always contact the Bama Team. They'll send you an adjusted fill for whatever idle speed you'd like!

Shane
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:10 PM   #31
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Agreed, it's never wise to shot gun parts at a problem until it's fixed. I always like to try the simple cleaning methods or whipping of KAM memory first. As it usually doesn't cost more than a canned cleaner chemical and a microfiber cloth.

Except sometimes when you've been wanting a particular product like coils and plugs anyways, it's a good excuse to take a chance. Although, that's more of a mental game to justify upgrades haha.

Shane





2011 Kona Blue,

The Bama SF3 tuners usually don't have the user adjustments available on 2011+ Mustang tunes, as they prefer to have the customer contact them for the correct adjustments. If you're looking to raise the idle and you're not seeing any settings, you can always contact the Bama Team. They'll send you an adjusted fill for whatever idle speed you'd like!

Shane
Dont you guys lock the tunes u send so they cant change settings to preserve the warranty you provide. This way you can rule out the customer at fault for changing options.

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Old 01-09-2014, 06:32 PM   #32
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Dont you guys lock the tunes u send so they cant change settings to preserve the warranty you provide. This way you can rule out the customer at fault for changing options.

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My Race tune is locked out but my Street tune has the option to adjust parameters, so it may depend on which tune you're trying to adjust.

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Old 01-10-2014, 07:53 PM   #33
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after you select your tune it should give you the option to adjust settings or somethin like that. hit yes and scroll down to "idle neu" and "idle drive". set them to anything under 900ish. they have to match though.[COLOR="Silver"]
Why do they have to match?
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:18 AM   #34
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I really dont know. BAMA told me when i asked about it
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Old 01-11-2014, 05:06 PM   #35
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I really dont know. BAMA told me when i asked about it
Humm... lets see if they can answer?

I can certainly tell you that the rev limit neutral and rev limit drive certainly don't need to match on an SCT tuner user settings; so why the would the idle? I keep my max drive revs at the factory level at all times, (you don't want an over speed event stored into the black box settings) and a much lower setting for neutral.

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