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Old 01-14-2014, 01:49 PM   #1
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Talking Just got nitrous got a couple Q's!

So fellas I just got a Nitrous express kit ( part number 20922). It's a wet shot, (going for 100) I bought the progressive controller, Nitrous Gauge (p# 15508), Fuel Rail Adapters( p# 16185), Bottle heater ( p# 15940), and the rest of the kit comes with it. I also planned on investing in a Hobbs 40psi fuel pressure switch, to my knowledge I believe that's all I'll need (if i am missing something please reply with what)

My Vehicle:
- 2014 Mustang v6 3.7l with intake tune and 3.73 gears. (planning to finish rest of boltons (exhaust and TB)

My question for you guys is; Bama offers a tune for nitrous for 100 shot. I have tunes for life through Bama, but I have been reading different things on why its a good and or bad idea to go with them. What is your opinion on the tune? Is it better to go dynotuned?

The name of the game for me for Nitrous is *Saftey*. My cars on a lease that i'm buying at the end (warranty void lol) and i'm trying to play it as safe as It gets. I'm not that dude who's gunna rip it 24/7 on the street this is really just for knowing I have the power and using it in proper situations like the track or against some corvette for example lol. But any feed back you guys can get me is appreciated, if im missing anything definitly let me know i don't mind dumping money into this I just don't want my engine to blow up plain and simple.

Much Appreciated
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:11 PM   #2
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"not that dude who's gunna rip it 24/7"

ha! keep telling your self that!!I went through like 6 bottles the first couple moths just playing with mine hahaha
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:42 PM   #3
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You will need to drop to colder plugs.

Also, I would highly recommend a wideband O2.

The nitrous tune on my Z28 runs a bit rich and is down on power compared to the NA tune.

I'm not sure I would trust a pre canned tune like Bama's without getting it on a dyno and verifying everything is within spec ( A/F ratio and timing ).



If you make a mistake with nitrous, you will likely toast your engine.

Once you get it figured out, nitrous is amazing.
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:45 PM   #4
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what is the Wideband o2? is that another gauge? Can you get me a link of it?
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Butsweat View Post
what is the Wideband o2? is that another gauge? Can you get me a link of it?
The wideband O2 measures your Air to fuel ratio, very important, because if you run too lean or too rich your engine is bye bye, even more so with nitrous. Like this

Auto Meter Phantom II Mustang Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge - Digital 5779 (79-14 All) - Free Shipping
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Old 01-14-2014, 03:04 PM   #6
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And you need to get a dyno tune, i would never trust a canned tune with Nitrous. Oh and if you haven't already its probably a good idea to take your cats out. Don't quote me on this, but its just a wild guess that the cats won't like the nitrous very much.
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:31 PM   #7
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And you need to get a dyno tune, i would never trust a canned tune with Nitrous. Oh and if you haven't already its probably a good idea to take your cats out. Don't quote me on this, but its just a wild guess that the cats won't like the nitrous very much.
You will need a window switch also.

The cats really don't matter. With a wet shot, you should still be running around the optimal A/F ratio as the nitrous provides oxygen and the fuel (wet part of the shot) would provide what is needed to get the optimal A/F mixture. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust might increase the efficiency of the cat. Since nitrous is normally used to 10-20 seconds, there shouldn't be any issues and the temps should stay well within spec.

If you go to spray and you're out of nitrous, you will just be dumping a bit of fuel and that could cause the cats to clog up as there will be a lot of unburnt fuel.

As for the tune, you need to be able to see what the car is doing on spray. An email tune can provide safe parameters for a smaller shot. However, once you step up to a large shot (100 - 125+), your tuner needs to know and see what is going on. All of this could be done with a dyno and data logging. The results would be rather slow between all the back and forth tweaks from an email tuner like Bama. However, Bama has tuned more Mustangs than anyone so they might be able to get a good safe baseline on a 100 shot or so depending on the setup.

Also, a nitrous tune typically runs a bit rich and produces less power than an NA tune. So if you have your nitrous tune loaded and aren't spraying, you will be down on a bit of power.


BTW, does anyone know if NX rates their systems at rwhp or flywheel?
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Old 01-14-2014, 04:42 PM   #8
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You will need a window switch also.

The cats really don't matter. With a wet shot, you should still be running around the optimal A/F ratio as the nitrous provides oxygen and the fuel (wet part of the shot) would provide what is needed to get the optimal A/F mixture. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust might increase the efficiency of the cat. Since nitrous is normally used to 10-20 seconds, there shouldn't be any issues and the temps should stay well within spec.

If you go to spray and you're out of nitrous, you will just be dumping a bit of fuel and that could cause the cats to clog up as there will be a lot of unburnt fuel.

As for the tune, you need to be able to see what the car is doing on spray. An email tune can provide safe parameters for a smaller shot. However, once you step up to a large shot (100 - 125+), your tuner needs to know and see what is going on. All of this could be done with a dyno and data logging. The results would be rather slow between all the back and forth tweaks from an email tuner like Bama. However, Bama has tuned more Mustangs than anyone so they might be able to get a good safe baseline on a 100 shot or so depending on the setup.

Also, a nitrous tune typically runs a bit rich and produces less power than an NA tune. So if you have your nitrous tune loaded and aren't spraying, you will be down on a bit of power.


BTW, does anyone know if NX rates their systems at rwhp or flywheel?
I believe NX is to the wheels.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:03 PM   #9
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OP,

There's a lot of informative and accurate information listed by Ish416. He seems to have been around the nitrous game more than once or twice

I completely agree you'll need a window switch, as well as a 1-step cooler spark plug to optimize safety. Both NX and MSD make a window switch that will work perfectly, if you're interested.

There really is no need for an aftermarket wideband with your setup. You're lucky to own a 11+ Mustang, which is equipped with factory O2 widebands from the start. The only additional safety measure you can take is a datalog of the nitrous engaging to send to the Bama Team for review. Assuming everything looks good in the datalog, you should be all set.

Tuning for the 100 wet shot of nitrous is very simple, once the N/A tune is taken care of. Since the nitrous system adds all of the additional fuel, the tune will basically pull a few degrees of timing and only slightly richen the tune up for safety. Other than that, there's not much into running a 100wet shot.

The Bama Team will send you an separate Nitrous tune as well. This way you can constantly reap the full benefits of your N/A tune and just switch to the nitrous tune when needed.

Hope this info helps clarify things for you. Hit me up if you have more questions or concerns. I'd be happy to answer them!

Shane



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ish416 View Post
You will need a window switch also.

The cats really don't matter. With a wet shot, you should still be running around the optimal A/F ratio as the nitrous provides oxygen and the fuel (wet part of the shot) would provide what is needed to get the optimal A/F mixture. The increase in oxygen present in the exhaust might increase the efficiency of the cat. Since nitrous is normally used to 10-20 seconds, there shouldn't be any issues and the temps should stay well within spec.

If you go to spray and you're out of nitrous, you will just be dumping a bit of fuel and that could cause the cats to clog up as there will be a lot of unburnt fuel.

As for the tune, you need to be able to see what the car is doing on spray. An email tune can provide safe parameters for a smaller shot. However, once you step up to a large shot (100 - 125+), your tuner needs to know and see what is going on. All of this could be done with a dyno and data logging. The results would be rather slow between all the back and forth tweaks from an email tuner like Bama. However, Bama has tuned more Mustangs than anyone so they might be able to get a good safe baseline on a 100 shot or so depending on the setup.

Also, a nitrous tune typically runs a bit rich and produces less power than an NA tune. So if you have your nitrous tune loaded and aren't spraying, you will be down on a bit of power.


BTW, does anyone know if NX rates their systems at rwhp or flywheel?
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:52 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Soccerluvr4 View Post
I believe NX is to the wheels.
x2 im pretty sure too
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:56 PM   #11
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x2 im pretty sure too
I believe NX rates the power to the wheels as well. Regardless what the rate the power at, keep in mind what the car is putting down too. You can adjust your jet sizes accordingly if the power is too little or too much. As they're a generic sizing to get you in the ball park.

This is something I should have mentioned in my first post!

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Old 01-16-2014, 06:40 AM   #12
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what is the Wideband o2? is that another gauge? Can you get me a link of it?
You have a 2014 so do you have the gauge package in the center between the tach and speedometer? If so you have a built in wide band there. If not, you just need the aeromotive gauge that plugs into the OBD and you can get your AFR on that.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:13 PM   #13
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You have a 2014 so do you have the gauge package in the center between the tach and speedometer? If so you have a built in wide band there. If not, you just need the aeromotive gauge that plugs into the OBD and you can get your AFR on that.
Get a real Wideband O2 with a weld-in bung and install it into the exhaust. Since the car will be running nitrous, you will need it at least 36" away from the header.

I have been around the nitrous game for a while. I personally wouldn't take any chances with the onboard readings being off even just a bit.

Here is what I have in my Talon and the Z28. Whenever I decide to mod the Stang, I will have one in it too.

Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:43 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ish416 View Post

Get a real Wideband O2 with a weld-in bung and install it into the exhaust. Since the car will be running nitrous, you will need it at least 36" away from the header.

I have been around the nitrous game for a while. I personally wouldn't take any chances with the onboard readings being off even just a bit.

Here is what I have in my Talon and the Z28. Whenever I decide to mod the Stang, I will have one in it too.

Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge
The aeromotive gauge that plugs into the obd2 port works perfectly fine for air/fuel. Spot on no problems at all
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:02 PM   #15
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Yes NX rates at the wheels, to a limit. The single nozzle system more than likely will not yield right at 100 at the wheels on a 100 pill. The distribution on the single nozzle is not good. Nozzle placement will make all the difference.
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:28 PM   #16
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Get a real Wideband O2 with a weld-in bung and install it into the exhaust. Since the car will be running nitrous, you will need it at least 36" away from the header.

I have been around the nitrous game for a while. I personally wouldn't take any chances with the onboard readings being off even just a bit.

Here is what I have in my Talon and the Z28. Whenever I decide to mod the Stang, I will have one in it too.

Digital Wideband Air/Fuel Gauge
The on board one that Ford put in the car starting in 2013 is a "real wideband".
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:29 PM   #17
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The on board one that Ford put in the car starting in 2013 is a "real wideband".
The 11 and 12 have it also
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:03 PM   #18
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At what point in the exhaust is it pulling it's readings from?
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:13 PM   #19
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At what point in the exhaust is it pulling it's readings from?
From the top o2 sensors.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:18 PM   #20
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Smae readings that I have got in my dyno tunes are the same the gauge shows. Never had a problem. Perfect readings on the 300 shot, all motor, and on e85.
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Old 01-17-2014, 05:41 AM   #21
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The 11 and 12 have it also
That's true, but starting in 2013 Ford put it in the display in the center as one of the gauge options. I have a picture somewhere and will post it up when I find it.
For 11 and 12 you still need something like the Aeromotive to display the information.
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Old 01-18-2014, 11:00 AM   #22
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Here's the onboard gauges - if you have the "premium" package butsweat you should have this. If not, then all you need is the Aeromotive to plug in to your OBD port and you can display the AFR for each bank.







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Old 01-28-2014, 01:12 AM   #23
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I'm about to buy a NX plate system for my 2013 gt. I obviously plan on being as safe as possible so I will be buying a RPM window switch to come along with the kit.
Does anyone know the optimal RPM to begin the shot? Not to low and with plenty of RPMs left.
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Old 01-28-2014, 05:49 AM   #24
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I'm about to buy a NX plate system for my 2013 gt. I obviously plan on being as safe as possible so I will be buying a RPM window switch to come along with the kit.
Does anyone know the optimal RPM to begin the shot? Not to low and with plenty of RPMs left.
3,500


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Old 01-28-2014, 11:43 AM   #25
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And since I have the boss 302 manifold it redlines just short of 7500.
What would be a safe cut off?
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:16 PM   #26
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And since I have the boss 302 manifold it redlines just short of 7500.
What would be a safe cut off?
If you have redline set at 7500 set the window switch for 7350

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---------- Post added at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:15 PM ----------

Personally I would raise redline and spray to 7500/7600

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Old 01-28-2014, 09:10 PM   #27
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So this is what I'M going to do.
I'm going to run a wet 100 shot. Dual nozzle setup. Going to get a throttle body spacer and drill holes for the nozzles. one fuel and one nitrous line to each nozzle.
Window switch for 5500 rpm to a couple hundred short of redline.
The real difference here and IMO the real SAFETY feature is to run a separate fuel system. I'm not going to tap the factory one, I'm going to install a small fuel cell with it's own pump. You'll only need to run like 7-10 psi this way like a carb set up.
Then an inline pressure sensor. IF the sensor doesn't sense fuel, the nitrous won't spray.

Secondary to all that I'm going to run a 25-35 hp DRY shot. Put the nitrous nozzle in front of the MAF and at that power level the PCM can adjust the fuel. IT will also help burn up the extra fuel you have from your wet setup when the window switch closes it down.

Best part about the fuel cell is you can fill it with race gas so you have max octane going with the spray.

I will most likely also be running water/meth injection. Should easily be over 400whp with this setup.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:58 AM   #28
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So this is what I'M going to do.
I'm going to run a wet 100 shot. Dual nozzle setup. Going to get a throttle body spacer and drill holes for the nozzles. one fuel and one nitrous line to each nozzle.
Window switch for 5500 rpm to a couple hundred short of redline.
The real difference here and IMO the real SAFETY feature is to run a separate fuel system. I'm not going to tap the factory one, I'm going to install a small fuel cell with it's own pump. You'll only need to run like 7-10 psi this way like a carb set up.
Then an inline pressure sensor. IF the sensor doesn't sense fuel, the nitrous won't spray.

Secondary to all that I'm going to run a 25-35 hp DRY shot. Put the nitrous nozzle in front of the MAF and at that power level the PCM can adjust the fuel. IT will also help burn up the extra fuel you have from your wet setup when the window switch closes it down.

Best part about the fuel cell is you can fill it with race gas so you have max octane going with the spray.

I will most likely also be running water/meth injection. Should easily be over 400whp with this setup.
By far the most idiotic thing I have seen on this site yet.

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Old 01-29-2014, 01:00 AM   #29
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Please do not take offense to that. That was just wow.

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Old 01-29-2014, 01:35 AM   #30
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How is anything I posted idiotic? It may not be the way YOU would do it but it will certainly work, and be fast.
Running water/meth with nitrous is about the safest way you can do it. What do you take issue with? Nitrous in general?
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:38 AM   #31
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My friend had a very similar setup on his AUTOMATIC G35, but with 3 stages and was close to 600whp and deep into the 11's.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:52 AM   #32
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How is anything I posted idiotic? It may not be the way YOU would do it but it will certainly work, and be fast.
Running water/meth with nitrous is about the safest way you can do it. What do you take issue with? Nitrous in general?
Lol.

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Old 01-29-2014, 11:56 AM   #33
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600 hp and 11's with 3 stages is pathetic. Also meth and nitrous is not the safest way. In fact it's the complete opposite. And yes I know a thing or 2 about nitrous. I have had my fair share with it. The stuff you are posting is ridiculous

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Old 01-29-2014, 12:12 PM   #34
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Truth is if you want a 100.shot you do not need all that bull **** you posted. Get a good wet kit from nx or nitrous outlet. Window switch and a good tune for a 100 shot and your good. No need for all that ludacris stuff you posted. Do some research first. A 100 shot is nothing extreme for your 3v. So a dedicated fuel system is not needed. Meth and nitrous is a no no. If the meth system fails for whatever reason. ( which they do). Your motor will give you the outcome for that. If you are worried about enough fuel / octane. Then run e85 and a set of 47lb injectors. It's not needed bit will supply your safety blanket you are obviously wanting.

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