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Old 01-27-2014, 02:12 AM   #1
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4.10 Gears

Hi guys
I'm new here and i just got a 2014 v6 manual.
I did some research and a lot of people are debating about 3.73 and 4.10. I understand you guys already explain it again and again so i apologize if it is annoying

3.73 are usually recommended on a manual and 4.10 for auto. Some say don't afraid of the gear and go 4.10 for both! i really want to go for 4.10 but i am living in LA which daily traffic is really annoying. i don't mind shifting constantly but i kinda wanna know how bad it could be.

Also, i heard some people say 4.10 will reduce top speed and some members already explain the hp will trap the top speed faster than the rev will. if it is possible, can someone tell me how much hp will finally trap a 4.10?

and should i get a one piece driveshaft at the same time so i won't blow my stock one?

Sorry if I am asking dumb questions i am very new to mustang and cars in general
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:25 AM   #2
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3.73 is the most common choice for performance. If you do not care about mpg then 3.73 or 4.10 will greatly increase acceleration. I chose 3.55 as this is my daily and I do drive on the highway 80 percent of the time. My gears and driveshaft will be installed Friday and I can update you on performance then. I plan on driving a friends 3.73 car to see the difference.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:27 AM   #3
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Oh, also from my understanding there is no power increase, just a faster way to get your car into the power band.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:08 AM   #4
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Oh, also from my understanding there is no power increase, just a faster way to get your car into the power band.

+1 It's not a power adder. It's a torque multiplier. It allows your car to do more work with the same amount of input energy. A lot like using a pulley when lifting things. You're not any stronger yourself.. But now it's much easier to move the weight.
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Old 01-27-2014, 01:26 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies.
I expected to see 2-3 mpg drops on highway driving, but from my understand my street mpg should increase. And Is the driveshaft upgrade required? Thanks again
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:06 PM   #6
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I did the driveshaft to play it safe. Now there are several people with gears and the stock driveshaft and they are running without any issues. I'd rather not find out if my driveshaft will explode at any time.
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Old 01-27-2014, 03:04 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies.
I expected to see 2-3 mpg drops on highway driving, but from my understand my street mpg should increase. And Is the driveshaft upgrade required? Thanks again

I was getting 29-30 on interstate running 80 now get 22-24 so I dropped about 6 mpg. Runs about 2750 Rpms with 3.73 gears where it use run 2000
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:44 PM   #8
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I was getting 29-30 on interstate running 80 now get 22-24 so I dropped about 6 mpg. Runs about 2750 Rpms with 3.73 gears where it use run 2000

That's why you be smart and stop running at 80. I cruise at 65 on the interstate and get normal MPGs.
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:26 PM   #9
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That's why you be smart and stop running at 80. I cruise at 65 on the interstate and get normal MPGs.

Even at 65 I only get 25-26. Where use to get 31-32
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:28 PM   #10
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Even at 65 I only get 25-26. Where use to get 31-32

That weird MPG to start with. 25-26 is really good anyway you cut it.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:12 PM   #11
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+1 It's not a power adder. It's a torque multiplier. It allows your car to do more work with the same amount of input energy. A lot like using a pulley when lifting things. You're not any stronger yourself.. But now it's much easier to move the weight.
It actually is a power loser HP wise. But you will gain Torque numbers.

And to answer the traffic question. With 4.10's you would have no issues in just dropping it in second from a stop and roll out so you would just stay in second in traffic. 3.73's dont have an issue with starting out in second either and will give you a little bit more gear before you have to shift up.

I did 3.73's but I just purchased a procharger too. If i didnt go that route and stayed non aspirated I would have done 4.10's. Keep in mind though that if you run a 26 inch tire (like a drag tire at the track) then it will be like having 4.10's because the tire height is less than stock.

Also 4.10s may not get you faster and may actually slow you down 0-60 and 60ft times because of traction issues.

If you can drive a car with both or take a ride then I would do that just so you can feel the difference... Look for a local car hangout it and see if you can find someone willing to give you a ride.
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Old 01-27-2014, 06:31 PM   #12
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It actually is a power loser HP wise. But you will gain Torque numbers.

And to answer the traffic question. With 4.10's you would have no issues in just dropping it in second from a stop and roll out so you would just stay in second in traffic. 3.73's dont have an issue with starting out in second either and will give you a little bit more gear before you have to shift up.

I did 3.73's but I just purchased a procharger too. If i didnt go that route and stayed non aspirated I would have done 4.10's. Keep in mind though that if you run a 26 inch tire (like a drag tire at the track) then it will be like having 4.10's because the tire height is less than stock.

Also 4.10s may not get you faster and may actually slow you down 0-60 and 60ft times because of traction issues.

If you can drive a car with both or take a ride then I would do that just so you can feel the difference... Look for a local car hangout it and see if you can find someone willing to give you a ride.

Some of the things you say make no sense.

But either way OP.. Gears are fun.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:11 PM   #13
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It actually is a power loser HP wise. But you will gain Torque numbers.

And to answer the traffic question. With 4.10's you would have no issues in just dropping it in second from a stop and roll out so you would just stay in second in traffic. 3.73's dont have an issue with starting out in second either and will give you a little bit more gear before you have to shift up.

I did 3.73's but I just purchased a procharger too. If i didnt go that route and stayed non aspirated I would have done 4.10's. Keep in mind though that if you run a 26 inch tire (like a drag tire at the track) then it will be like having 4.10's because the tire height is less than stock.

Also 4.10s may not get you faster and may actually slow you down 0-60 and 60ft times because of traction issues.

If you can drive a car with both or take a ride then I would do that just so you can feel the difference... Look for a local car hangout it and see if you can find someone willing to give you a ride.

So would u recommended 3.73?
Since my car is a dd
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:14 PM   #14
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And if you don't know which to pick and are still between 3.73 and 4.10s.
Pick up 3.90s.
Best of both worlds.
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Old 01-27-2014, 07:59 PM   #15
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Some of the things you say make no sense.

But either way OP.. Gears are fun.
Gears are fun!

What I mean is it takes more hp to turn the 4.10 gear than the 3.73 gear. So on a dyno, the torque of the 4.10 will be a higher number but the HP will be down compared to the 3.73 gear which will have a higher HP number but lower Torque number when compared to the 3.73 gear.

As far as getting more acceleration it all comes down to traction. So the 4.10 might be too much gear and tires will be spinning instead of pushing you forward.
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:27 AM   #16
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4.10 Gears

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Originally Posted by sunnytan06 View Post
Thanks for the replies.
I expected to see 2-3 mpg drops on highway driving, but from my understand my street mpg should increase. And Is the driveshaft upgrade required? Thanks again

That's very optimistic. I lost 5 mpg highway when I went to 3.73. Not that I mind but be aware - you have higher rpms at the same speed compared to your stock 2.73 gears. Gas burns faster but oh heck yeah - more torque and feels like a beast!

Oh and don't forget a tune! You can't get Ford to calibrate your speedo for anything lower than 3.31. But a tune can get your speedo calibrated for your new gears. And tire size if u change that.
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:55 AM   #17
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Yea. I probably gonna go for 373 instead. Thanks everyone. I really appreciate the help
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:59 AM   #18
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Btw. If I go for 373. Would u guys recommend me to get the driveshaft and install it at the same time?
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:19 AM   #19
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Btw. If I go for 373. Would u guys recommend me to get the driveshaft and install it at the same time?
Sorry, I should have responded to you on this, too, in the same post. My finger got tired of typing on the smart phone.

I do have a one-piece aluminum drive shaft. Is it necessary with a gear change? Nope, not at all. Save your money if you just plan to have a good, fun daily driver. And take to an autocross -- you'll have a blast with those gears!

However, if you plan to take your car to the big track, then perhaps it's worth it for weight savings and piece of mind*. For me, that was the primary reason I did it. I'm glad I did because there was an unexpected side benefit for me. Like most V6 standard-shift owners I had noticed a vibration when decelerating (foot off accel, not on brake, no clutch) at around 2300-2700 RPMs. With the aluminum drive shaft I can't feel that vibration anymore. Maybe just coincidence, but it made me smile.

You don't have to have it installed at the same time as doing gears. I didn't. It's a simple install, though I still had my dealer take care of it for me because I didn't have a flat, level surface to put my car up on ramps and jack stands to get under there (and don't have jack stands anyway - it was cheaper to give them $35 or whatever to slap it in for me). My dealership service dept has good people. Will do anything I want them to with my car.


* Weight savings may be debatable. I heard that the 2013 like mine and 2014 have lighter stock drive shafts than the 2012s and older V6 models. But I don't know if this is fact or not... I didn't weigh mine before or after ds swap.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:30 AM   #20
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That weird MPG to start with. 25-26 is really good anyway you cut it.
Well, really good if you have a GT, I suppose. Or a V6 in a SUV. But who buys a muscle car for the mileage anyway?

When I had 2.73 gears on my V6 I got up to 30 mpg on the highway. At Interstate speeds I dropped to 27 or 28.

With my 3.73 gears I get up to about 25 or 26 on the highway and 23 or 24 on the Interstate. YMMV depending terrain and elevation, of course.

Around town, taking it easy I get (very roughly) 16 mph in this verrrry cold winter, which is actually 1-2 mpg better than my old 2.73s. But recognize "around town" for me means 35 mph max and sitting still at stoplights for what seems like 40% of my total trip time...
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Old 01-28-2014, 03:14 PM   #21
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Gears don't lose any hp. On a dyno it will read differently, that doesn't mean you actually lose horsepower though.

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Old 01-28-2014, 03:19 PM   #22
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Btw. If I go for 373. Would u guys recommend me to get the driveshaft and install it at the same time?
I did mine a few weeks prior and the driveshaft made the whole drivetrain feel so much more smoother. That in itself was worth it imo. Do a shifter or shifter bracket too at the same time and it will be a breeze for the install because the shifter and bracket is mounted right above the shaft. Not necessary to remove the driveshaft for a shifter install but it does make it a piece of cake and if you are going to pull it for a one piece swap then go for it if you can swing it $$$.

I just ordered the MGW and have a Barton shifter bracket I will be selling in the classifieds cheap if you are thinking of just doing the bracket. The bracket made a big difference over the stock feeling but I am ready for a reduced throw of the shifter so I went with the MGW which should be here in a week.
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:48 PM   #23
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That weird MPG to start with. 25-26 is really good anyway you cut it.
He is on a V6, and mine used to get 31-32 before the gear change as well on fuel with little ethanol in it. That varies all over different states it seems and effects how much mileage you can squeak out of it; more Ethanol = less mileage.

Badly diluted gas would get me 28-29.
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Old 01-28-2014, 08:57 PM   #24
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I'm going with 4.10's in a month or two from my stock 2.73's. I want maximum acceleration. I may need to run a bigger tire but who cares. With 4.10's and IF I can get traction I aim to get this thing in the 12's on street tires. Well kinda street tires, lol. Drag radials, MT ET streets or something. NA you want to get thru the gears as fast as possible.

IF you were going to turbo or SC it 3.73 may be better to take advantage of the gear ratio's better but it's debatable. Bottom line is lower gears make you faster.
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Old 01-28-2014, 09:14 PM   #25
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Correct ; Lower gears make you quicker, so yes most times faster in 0-60 or a QTR.
Higher gears can also make you faster over a long mile run or Autoban.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:03 AM   #26
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I'm going with 4.10's in a month or two from my stock 2.73's. I want maximum acceleration. I may need to run a bigger tire but who cares. With 4.10's and IF I can get traction I aim to get this thing in the 12's on street tires. Well kinda street tires, lol. Drag radials, MT ET streets or something. NA you want to get thru the gears as fast as possible.

IF you were going to turbo or SC it 3.73 may be better to take advantage of the gear ratio's better but it's debatable. Bottom line is lower gears make you faster.
If you have a procharger or are planning to get one the 4.10s are the way to go. With a stick it might be to much gear though. The procharger builds power like the stock motor : at high rpms. Before 4500 RPM the procharger is only making like 3 lbs of boost, it's after 5000 rpm when it comes alive, and with my 4.10s shifting @ 7500 rpm on every upshift lands me in the 5500-6000 RPM zone where the procharger would be making 8 psi. Perfect.

With a turbo you wouldn't want 4.10s because with a turbo most of it's power is in the midrange not up top like the procharger. You would want some 3.31 or 3.55 gears in that application.

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Old 01-29-2014, 12:52 AM   #27
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If you have a procharger or are planning to get one the 4.10s are the way to go. With a stick it might be to much gear though. The procharger builds power like the stock motor : at high rpms. Before 4500 RPM the procharger is only making like 3 lbs of boost, it's after 5000 rpm when it comes alive, and with my 4.10s shifting @ 7500 rpm on every upshift lands me in the 5500-6000 RPM zone where the procharger would be making 8 psi. Perfect.

With a turbo you wouldn't want 4.10s because with a turbo most of it's power is in the midrange not up top like the procharger. You would want some 3.31 or 3.55 gears in that application.

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Cool that makes a lot of sense. Originally I was going to spend a lot of time and money turbo charging my car. I have decided to go a totally different way. I may end up pro charging it in a year or two, but for now I'm going to run a dual stage nitrous set up. 100 wet shot, 35 dry shot with water/meth. I think with the window switch set for 5500+ the 4.10's would be the way to go with NOS too.
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:41 AM   #28
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:59 AM   #29
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So what is u guys shift point?
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:46 AM   #30
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So what is u guys shift point?
I'm not sure what you mean. You shift at different times depending on the application. For example just warming things up? I shift at or below 2000 rpms. I'm accelerating heavily and want to stay in the power band? Much higher. I'm doing autocross? I don't shift. Stick it in second, brace left foot on the floor and let 'er rip.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:40 AM   #31
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Yea. Something like that.
I notice after the rpm reach 6k. The engine start to weaken down ( make sense to me because it passed the mid range peek ) so should I shift around 6k for straight line acceleration ?
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:07 AM   #32
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I don't drag my car, but that sounds reasonable to me.

You'll get used to it, play around a bit and I think learn to feel where to shift to keep the car accelerating strongly. I couldn't tell you exactly where I shift, because I don't do straight-line drag racing type stuff. I have to keep my eyes on the course. I'm just learning myself, trial and error, going by what feels right and consulting with buddies when I pull off the course. One of these days I want to try a racing school type event but haven't had the chance yet.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:01 AM   #33
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It depends on a lot of things. Are you going to race? What size tire will you use? Is mileage important? Know this, with a manual you will be done in first gear real quick. Like in 50' or less. Do not confuse the MT82 manual trans first gear with that in the MT82 for the V6. They are different. The V8 guys are geared way different and what works for them won't for you. The low first gear was designed to work with the 2.73 gear for mileage purposes in the higher gears. FYI I use a 3.55 and it's great.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:26 PM   #34
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Agree with all of that.. But I still went 3.73, my local shop had a set of them in stock but I was going to do a 3.55 origInally. After driving a 3.73 car I decided on them and figured if I wanted less gear I could just swap out a taller tire and rim so I could get the best of both. If I wanted less gear I would go with a smaller height tire. For my application for street and strip and the willingness to swap rear tires for the track, the 3.73 works. There is no perfect gear for everyone. I would again see if anyone local has done gears and take a ride.
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Old 01-30-2014, 10:51 PM   #35
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True, if you should go with a 28" tire you'll be really happy. When I run the 26" drag radial it turns my 3.55 into 3.75 best of both. Have fun.
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