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Old 03-12-2014, 04:46 PM   #1
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2013 mustang mods advice

Have my 2013 mustang V6 for one year and put some exterior parts on it. Recently, I want to add some mods to improve performance for daily use, and just ordered the Airaid air cold Intake and Borla Atak exhaust. What should be next one? Could anyone give me some advice? Many great thanks!
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:29 PM   #2
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Definitely a tune. Is the ATAK set up axle or cat back? The CAI isn't going to improve performance much at all, unfortunately. The biggest single thing you can do (apart from forced induction) for your V6's performance is a tune. I'd suggest BAMA or Steeda.
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:55 PM   #3
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You can find some very "Kewl" ideas here:
Accessories : KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.

I like their Boost Bar, Engine Oil ByPass, Butt Dyno, and Passenger Silencer myself [JK]

In all seriousness, SixBanger's advise on a tune next is spot on. Most all tune shops are giving tune changes for life of the car with bolt on mods. The tune shop depends on the range from "[Safe and will work with your dealer if something breaks], [Has lots of users and is the middle of the pak tune shop],[Has the top High Performance tunes that can ever be done].

The tunes I know of fall in these 3

1) Steeda (they tune cars sold on Ford Showroom floors, that are like Factory Hot Rods, they know what they are doing for years and years, and its not fast food)
2) Bama (the best known here and has presence in this forum)
3) MPT and Lund (more extreme edge of the envelope performance from tuners doing it)

Its also important to see if your dealer is tune friendly. Some are like the Spanish Inquisition and would like to hang you on a wall. Others will work with you like this for example; your tune is not going to void your EGR value or water pump warranty, but if you come in with a piston blown and a rod out the side, well they are likely going to have to work with Ford and hope your tuner will also. In the end, likely if that extreme example happened, its likely to be ruled its because you were abusing the car and you have to have money to play. Conservative tunes are unlikely to cause that unless you are like pulling 22 passes at the track in a 1/2 day period (I saw someone do that with a brand new stock Boss 302, but they have a 3 year track key warranty as they are sold as a track capable car.) Our Cyclone was not build to take 22 passes like that. Extra oil coolers and other stuff the Boss has.

Pay to Play: I put the cost of a major engine repair in a separate bank account I add to each month. After a certain time that money as it grows each month will pay for a major upgrade; FI, Crate drop in, Trade in for a slightly used Boss/Shelby for example. In the mean time it is a self insurance method to allow me peace of mind knowing I have to pay if I play too hard.

I have those same 3 mods (CAI, Muffs, Tune) plus a pair of seat covers (#4) for the passenger side. That last mod #4 is the most high maintenance and time consuming, so watch out and make sure you fully understand the specifications of the install before you let them install.

I plan to do BBK Shortys for boosting the low end part of the dyno curve. Shorty headers do not give peak HPR gains, they give you a higher , flatter low end part of the Dyno curve our Cyclone motors need most. Plus add more deeper sound to your axle backs while working with the factory CAT pipes.

And Now A Message Of Interest "Apply Proper Torque to the Axle Nut"
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The KaleCo Boost Bar:"Tired of bothering with duct-taped leaf blowers as turbos? Treat your car to a bar of boost."
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...-ziTIzPv,rQMg3
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:46 PM   #4
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Auto or manual? performance package? Future plans on mods? If I were you I'd get a Lund tune right away, and if don't plan to supercharge or turbo I'd change the gears to some 3.73s, and then work from there. I would also say that if you can pick up a BBK throttle body for cheap do it, but if not don't pay the normal price. A lot of people would disagree with me on that, but I noticed a difference on the low end quite a bit from it.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:53 PM   #5
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Auto or manual? performance package? Future plans on mods? If I were you I'd get a Lund tune right away, and if don't plan to supercharge or turbo I'd change the gears to some 3.73s, and then work from there. I would also say that if you can pick up a BBK throttle body for cheap do it, but if not don't pay the normal price. A lot of people would disagree with me on that, but I noticed a difference on the low end quite a bit from it.
Thanks Colby, I seem to forgot I put 3.55 gearz in my Cyclone as well. I have no idea why I keep forgetting that! [That makes passenger seat covers mod #5]

If the OP has an auto and 2.73, 3.55s-3.73 will really wake it up. Cant hurt on a manual as well. See & search "gear threads" to decide what size gears to use, gear threads have burned up plenty of electrons on the web-servers
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:30 PM   #6
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Definitely a tune. Is the ATAK set up axle or cat back? The CAI isn't going to improve performance much at all, unfortunately. The biggest single thing you can do (apart from forced induction) for your V6's performance is a tune. I'd suggest BAMA or Steeda.
it's axle. Yeah, I was considering BAMA tune.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:37 PM   #7
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You can find some very "Kewl" ideas here:
Accessories : KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.

The tunes I know of fall in these 3

1) Steeda (they tune cars sold on Ford Showroom floors, that are like Factory Hot Rods, they know what they are doing for years and years, and its not fast food)
2) Bama (the best known here and has presence in this forum)
3) MPT and Lund (more extreme edge of the envelope performance from tuners doing it)
I plan to do BBK Shortys for boosting the low end part of the dyno curve. Shorty headers do not give peak HPR gains, they give you a higher , flatter low end part of the Dyno curve our Cyclone motors need most. Plus add more deeper sound to your axle backs while working with the factory CAT pipes.

And Now A Message Of Interest "Apply Proper Torque to the Axle Nut"
---------------------------------
The KaleCo Boost Bar:"Tired of bothering with duct-taped leaf blowers as turbos? Treat your car to a bar of boost."
Boost Bar - $21.25 : KaleCoAuto.com, Your home for the rare, unusual, and hard to find auto parts.
thanks bro.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:40 PM   #8
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Auto or manual? performance package? Future plans on mods? If I were you I'd get a Lund tune right away, and if don't plan to supercharge or turbo I'd change the gears to some 3.73s, and then work from there. I would also say that if you can pick up a BBK throttle body for cheap do it, but if not don't pay the normal price. A lot of people would disagree with me on that, but I noticed a difference on the low end quite a bit from it.
It's auto. So after I install a tune, the next one should be the gear?
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:41 PM   #9
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Thanks Colby, I seem to forgot I put 3.55 gearz in my Cyclone as well. I have no idea why I keep forgetting that! [That makes passenger seat covers mod #5]

If the OP has an auto and 2.73, 3.55s-3.73 will really wake it up. Cant hurt on a manual as well. See & search "gear threads" to decide what size gears to use, gear threads have burned up plenty of electrons on the web-servers
For daily commute, 3.55 and 3.73, which one is better?
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:45 PM   #10
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With your auto, I HIGHLY suggest against a bama tune. Anyone with a 13-14 auto transmission that has had bama doesn't like it. Lund or MPT are good, I use Lund and love it. And as for daily commuting, it depends on your speeds and other variations. But overall 3.55 would offer a little bit better fuel mileage especially if a lot of highway driving is done, most lean towards the 3.73 for the extra performance though.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:54 PM   #11
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With your auto, I HIGHLY suggest against a bama tune. Anyone with a 13-14 auto transmission that has had bama doesn't like it. Lund or MPT are good, I use Lund and love it. And as for daily commuting, it depends on your speeds and other variations. But overall 3.55 would offer a little bit better fuel mileage especially if a lot of highway driving is done, most lean towards the 3.73 for the extra performance though.
Many great thanks. I think I would choose 3.55 gears.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:55 PM   #12
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one more question, do you think anti Sway bar is necessry part for our pony?
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:16 PM   #13
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For daily commute, 3.55 and 3.73, which one is better?
It depends on your driving. I do real hyway touring (200-500 miles) about every month in the warm 3-seasons and 3.55 is on the very edge of what I can tolerate at 75-92 average speeds on real hyways, not the city driving 65 loops around your town. Touring is the sport of enjoying nice cars on pleasure trips to nice places to visit. Bucko does much more miles and stays at 3.31.

In several of the gear threads in the last couple months I write how you can simulate your gear choice on the freeway (downshifting to the rpm the gear specs say you will turn at 75mpg) before you chose to see if you can tolerate the RPM at the MPH you plan to cruse at.

If you never leave the city streets, many say 3.73 are top dog, check out the truth about gears posts and the many others, good for a few hours readin' with a six pack of good beer and some bourbon.

I can tell you when I put the 3.55 in my Cyclone V6 it was night and day and performed light years better than the 400ci Mopar big blocks in my 72 Sebring Plus/GTX body I had in the late 70s.

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Old 03-13-2014, 05:48 PM   #14
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one more question, do you think anti Sway bar is necessry part for our pony?
Doing any .9G curves at the road race curvy track? I have yet to break .89G on the Pirelli Stock P-Zero Neros. That could change this spring....

An upgraded bar or style about the axle cover could be a great mod when you get into autocross, have huge freeway curves in your town, or road curvy track days (most don't race, you run in non-competition with passing )

See my Profile Garage for a Photo Op that has me in front of a Boss on the Curve Track [Yea it didn't last long when finally the youngin' figgered out how to run his new car !] But that S2000 was another story
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:52 PM   #15
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It depends on your driving. I do real hyway touring (200-500 miles) about every month in the warm 3-seasons and 3.55 is on the very edge of what I can tolerate at 75-92 average speeds on real hyways, not the city driving 65 loops around your town. Touring is the sport of enjoying nice cars on pleasure trips to nice places to visit. Bucko does much more miles and stays at 3.31.

In several of the gear threads in the last couple months I write how you can simulate your gear choice on the freeway (downshifting to the rpm the gear specs say you will turn at 75mpg) before you chose to see if you can tolerate the RPM at the MPH you plan to cruse at.

If you never leave the city streets, many say 3.73 are top dog, check out the truth about gears posts and the many others, good for a few hours readin' with a six pack of good beer and some bourbon.

I can tell you when I put the 3.55 in my Cyclone V6 it was night and day and performed light years better than the 400ci Mopar big blocks in my 72 Sebring Plus/GTX body I had in the late 70s.

Art
Thank you so much for you detailed and professional explanation!!
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:55 PM   #16
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Doing any .9G curves at the road race curvy track? I have yet to break .89G on the Pirelli Stock P-Zero Neros. That could change this spring....

An upgraded bar or style about the axle cover could be a great mod when you get into autocross, have huge freeway curves in your town, or road curvy track days (most don't race, you run in non-competition with passing )

See my Profile Garage for a Photo Op that has me in front of a Boss on the Curve Track [Yea it didn't last long when finally the youngin' figgered out how to run his new car !] But that S2000 was another story
thanks bro. does the weather have to be considered when choose mods? 'cause I will move from Texas to Maine where is very cold.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:13 PM   #17
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Have my 2013 mustang V6 for one year and put some exterior parts on it. Recently, I want to add some mods to improve performance for daily use, and just ordered the Airaid air cold Intake and Borla Atak exhaust. What should be next one? Could anyone give me some advice? Many great thanks!
OP, I have Steeda, Bama and MPT tunes and very happy with all of them.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:31 PM   #18
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OP, I have Steeda, Bama and MPT tunes and very happy with all of them.
recently, i found there are some threads about BAMA's problems.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:44 PM   #19
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Upgrades are of individual tastes, like mates. If the OP has the 2.73 gears, definitely get at least the 3.31 gears. I am in my suspension upgrade phase, and will not get to any performance upgrades until next year. Handling should improve a lot with upgrading the pan hard bar and brace. Next up, a better LCA setup and sway bars. A Mustang is fun to modify. It can teach any mechanics and artists lessons.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:13 PM   #20
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recently, i found there are some threads about BAMA's problems.
Yeah, I caught them too. Lol! Everybody has different experiences but can tell you I have been running bama tunes for over 3 years and never any issues. Bama and AM have been top notch with their service and quality tunes.

Granted, your always going too have people who are less than thrilled with bama but you don't get to be the worlds leading mustang tuning company from making crap tunes that blow up peoples engines and transmissions. Clearly AM has and is doing something right because look how huge they have become in the past 5 years.

Now, I'm not taking anything away from tuning companies like Lund, Steeda, MPT, AED, VMP etc because they are all reputable. Heck I have Steeda and MPT tunes and love them as well.

Some will argue that bama makes a very generic tune and not the most powerful email tune out there compared to Lund, VMP, AED. I will agree that bama most likely does not make the most powerful tune that gives the worlds fastest 1/4 mile drag strip times. I'll agree and concede too opinion/fact, however with that said. Bama and AM are not about and in the business to make the most powerful tune. Bama's main goal is not too set world records. Bama's objective is too provide a high quality, SAFE, RELIABLE tune that provides increased power, firmer shift points and better throttle response for enthusiasts with bolt on mods.

The key words are SAFE & RELIABLE and they accomplished their goal. That's why Bama and AM are the largest mustang tuning company in the world and tune more mustangs than any other tuning company.

OP, Nothing too fear with Bama!
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:30 AM   #21
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thanks bro. does the weather have to be considered when choose mods? 'cause I will move from Texas to Maine where is very cold.
Yikes! A good guess for Maine driving mods are chains on the tires for winter months. Other mods would only be useful when the Mustang comes out of its hibernation after winter!

Seriously, weather would not play any real factor in performance mods. The newer cars are all controlled now by maps in the ECU/PCM, and tunes change these for increased performance.

I'd think that no matter what you do to the suspension, it's not going to do much for you in the winter months.
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:03 AM   #22
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Yikes! A good guess for Maine driving mods are chains on the tires for winter months. Other mods would only be useful when the Mustang comes out of its hibernation after winter!

Seriously, weather would not play any real factor in performance mods. The newer cars are all controlled now by maps in the ECU/PCM, and tunes change these for increased performance.

I'd think that no matter what you do to the suspension, it's not going to do much for you in the winter months.
Yeah,SAFETY ALWAYS FIRST!I think I would install winter tires or put chains on tires when winter is coming. Thanks
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Old 03-14-2014, 10:11 AM   #23
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Yeah, I caught them too. Lol! Everybody has different experiences but can tell you I have been running bama tunes for over 3 years and never any issues. Bama and AM have been top notch with their service and quality tunes.

Granted, your always going too have people who are less than thrilled with bama but you don't get to be the worlds leading mustang tuning company from making crap tunes that blow up peoples engines and transmissions. Clearly AM has and is doing something right because look how huge they have become in the past 5 years.

Now, I'm not taking anything away from tuning companies like Lund, Steeda, MPT, AED, VMP etc because they are all reputable. Heck I have Steeda and MPT tunes and love them as well.

Some will argue that bama makes a very generic tune and not the most powerful email tune out there compared to Lund, VMP, AED. I will agree that bama most likely does not make the most powerful tune that gives the worlds fastest 1/4 mile drag strip times. I'll agree and concede too opinion/fact, however with that said. Bama and AM are not about and in the business to make the most powerful tune. Bama's main goal is not too set world records. Bama's objective is too provide a high quality, SAFE, RELIABLE tune that provides increased power, firmer shift points and better throttle response for enthusiasts with bolt on mods.

The key words are SAFE & RELIABLE and they accomplished their goal. That's why Bama and AM are the largest mustang tuning company in the world and tune more mustangs than any other tuning company.

OP, Nothing too fear with Bama!
Bingo!Not the greatest power but SAFE & RELIABLE is what i am looking for! Thank you, Eric!
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:01 AM   #24
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Bingo!Not the greatest power but SAFE & RELIABLE is what i am looking for! Thank you, Eric!
Yes sir my fellow stanger. Lol! I'm not here just too be handsome. Glad I could help!
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:19 AM   #25
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Yes sir my fellow stanger. Lol! I'm not here just too be handsome. Glad I could help!
Of course you did!
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Old 03-14-2014, 01:18 PM   #26
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Thank you for the support - [QUOTE]1) Steeda (they tune cars sold on Ford Showroom floors, that are like Factory Hot Rods, they /[QUOTE]

A failure from a tune, particularly our tunes is extremely rare. The tunes we send out are the same tunes used in our Steeda serialized vehicles sold through Ford dealers. Vehicles that are backed by a warranty, hence need to have a tune that is not going to cause us warranty issues.

Should an engine failure occur, we would work with the Ford dealer for proper diagnostics, this would include not only traditional diagnostics but things such as fuel octane testing and other techniques to fully determine the cause of failure. Should it be determined that indeed the tuning was the cause of the engine failure and not abuse, over revving, improper fuel octane, etc, then we would work with the customer on resolving the failure.

To date ... Steeda has had 0 warranty issues when it comes to tuning. Our results speak for themselves.

Let me know if I can help provide any support ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com.

Best Regards,

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Old 03-14-2014, 01:27 PM   #27
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A failure from a tune, particularly our tunes is extremely rare. The tunes we send out are the same tunes used in our Steeda serialized vehicles sold through Ford dealers. Vehicles that are backed by a warranty, hence need to have a tune that is not going to cause us warranty issues.

To date ... Steeda has had 0 warranty issues when it comes to tuning. Our results speak for themselves.

Let me know if I can help provide any support ... you can reach me at tim@steeda.com.

Best Regards,

TJ
Many thanks, TJ. I will consider steeda tune seriouly.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:49 PM   #28
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Yeah,SAFETY ALWAYS FIRST!I think I would install winter tires or put chains on tires when winter is coming. Thanks
Yes for my safety and the horse's , I put the horse in a stable once any salt type stuff hits the streets. I dosn't drive on them after that unless the streets are bone dry and no salt dust on them. Problem at work is they use so much rock salt the size of boulders it seems, it takes weeks of April storms and showers to get all the salt out of the parking lot. Last year in April during a rain storm, the salt "embedded" in the asphalt was so bad it was salt staining my shoes.

Once you leave Texas you will see how terrible cars corrode from winter in the North. If you like your Mustang, by a winter beater for a couple grand. Best safety mod you can do. In years later after doing that with my way older cars; I bought a 4x4 Truck as a winter safety mod
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:54 PM   #29
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Yes for my safety and the horse's , I put the horse in a stable once any salt type stuff hits the streets. I dosn't drive on them after that unless the streets are bone dry and no salt dust on them. Problem at work is they use so much rock salt the size of boulders it seems, it takes weeks of April storms and showers to get all the salt out of the parking lot. Last year in April during a rain storm, the salt "embedded" in the asphalt was so bad it was salt staining my shoes.

Once you leave Texas you will see how terrible cars corrode from winter in the North. If you like your Mustang, by a winter beater for a couple grand. Best safety mod you can do. In years later after doing that with my way older cars; I bought a 4x4 Truck as a winter safety mod
U r right! Now, actually, I am really struggle because I am not sure if it would be a good choice for me to take my mustang to Maine State. the problem is the bad weather there, however, i really want to keep my mustang as my big toy.

Anyhow, for SAFETY,I will certainly buy a 4x4 truck or a SUV as transportation in winter.
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:08 PM   #30
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Just keep the Mustang as a 3-season driver in Maine, put it in a stable; and drive something else in this snow,salt, brine hell

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