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Old 03-17-2014, 07:47 PM   #1
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Brand new and already in the shop

I got my '14 V6 back in early February. Just hit my 1000 mile mark last night. I was on my way to the dealer (today) to have a water leak checked out. (water pooling behind passenger seat) Engine started knocking real bad on the way there. Quieted down a little when I was driving but when I slowed down to stop it started up again (about 1 mile away from the dealer) so I pulled into a parking lot and the engine died. Bonus: The dealers engine mechanic is two weeks behind and they are fresh out of loaner cars!
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:06 PM   #2
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So, any ideas on what the problem could be? Anyone ever hear of any car having this kind of problem so early?
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:40 AM   #3
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Bad tank of gas (knocking and stalling issue)? This could be anything, but with a full warranty, it becomes the dealerships issue, so you are safe at least. As to the water in the back seat, I'll guess the window is not sealed tight against the rubber gasket, or water getting through the side quarter glass. I do recall reading about another late model Mustang owner that had water collecting in the back seat area; they (dealer) fixed it, and ended up replacing the carpet as well, as it got musty smelling.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:48 AM   #4
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The water is pooling behind the passenger seat on the floorboard, the seat recess in the rear is fine. Also, it seems that it only affects the rear most section of the floorboard. I remember reading about that somewhere as well but couldn't remember the details.

I did not think of the possibility of fuel problems. I did fill up about 12 miles ago.

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Old 03-18-2014, 06:00 PM   #5
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I did not think of the possibility of fuel problems. I did fill up about 12 miles ago.
What kind of gas station was it? No-name cheapest in town or a Top Tier name brand. Do you have a receipt or full up on a credit card? I hope you didn't pay in cash with no receipt if it is bad gas. At least your tank would contain the evidence if it is bad gas.

On the Knocking, was it like Rods that knock from no oil a very harsh HARD knock or more of the piston detonation and the motor spitting or jerking some?

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Old 03-18-2014, 06:31 PM   #6
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What kind of gas station was it? No-name cheapest in town or a Top Tier name brand. Do you have a receipt or full up on a credit card? I hope you didn't pay in cash with no receipt if it is bad gas. At least your tank would contain the evidence if it is bad gas.

On the Knocking, was it like Rods that knock from no oil a very harsh HARD knock or more of the piston detonation and the motor spitting or jerking some?

Art
Not really a top tier brand but a very large one. Race Track and it was paid by debit at the pump but I don't keep receipts for that. I doubt that it is the cause though because the car was driven about 12 miles after filling up. I think I have used that exact pump for my last two fill-ups as well. About 7-8 gallons each. A week apart.

With regards to the knock, I am not exactly sure. I've run low on oil before and it didn't sound like that. Didn't sound like It was also very sudden, not something that started faintly and got progressively louder. I did not lift the hood to investigate the noise for fear of causing more damage.

I would describe the sound as if someone dropped a pinball into my engine. It was a timed knock and loud rather than a random tick that turns into a knock.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:39 PM   #7
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What do you think Ronnie, Bucko? To me that sounds mechanical. Bad cam phasers, bad cam solenoid or timing chain? That would also cause the engine computer to "save itself" and shut the car down?

I have heard those things are not that bad to fix, not like a rod knock or a Honda interference engine that dumps the values into the pistons when its timing belt breaks.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:47 PM   #8
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What do you think Ronnie, Bucko? To me that sounds mechanical. Bad cam phasers, bad cam solenoid or timing chain? That would also cause the engine computer to "save itself" and shut the car down?

I have heard those things are not that bad to fix, not like a rod knock.
Honestly, for these kind of problems to happen within 1000 miles, im not sure i want that particular car... at least not the engine...
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:07 PM   #9
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Honestly, for these kind of problems to happen within 1000 miles, im not sure i want that particular car... at least not the engine...
we wont know whats really wrong till the engine man tells you. Could be a simple thing and the engine notices something wrong and shuts off. If you have trouble with a dealer servicing you, you can contact Ford Customer service. He should give you a loaner if they cant work on it in a couple of days and its dead force the issue, say you will call ford customer service. We have a Ford Contact on another forum called Dysha that bucko can give you her contact details. She calls dealers and get them to do what they are supposed to do. Check your insurance, mine pays for a rental for a week if I have cars issues.

The 2011-2012s (and some early 2013s) had cam ticks on the drivers side by the firewall. They finally came up with a way to fix them. The Coyotes had a misfire issue and would shut down. Turned out to be washer on the crankshaft needed redesigned.

Hope my new to me 2013 5.0 with 5,000 miles on it doesn't have that misfire issue, but it did have a clean car fax, and a blood hound sniffed the car for me before I signed and papers. First owner traded it in for an F-150 in November before the bad snows. Said it was too much work to drive the stick. I know in 2 days have a very worn out left leg
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #10
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Oops, forgot that I posted the condensed version of the story on this forum. I have a longer version with more detail on another forum...

I just think that waiting two weeks before they will even turn the key is bull sh**. I haven't even made my first payment and it's broken down and leaking water inside...

I have sent Dysha a PM last night and have not heard back from her yet.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:39 PM   #11
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Oops, forgot that I posted the condensed version of the story on this forum. I have a longer version with more detail on another forum...

I just think that waiting two weeks before they will even turn the key is bull sh**. I haven't even made my first payment and it's broken down and leaking water inside...

I have sent Dysha a PM last night and have not heard back from her yet.
Thanks, can you post the link here to the other forum topic?
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:09 PM   #12
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Thanks, can you post the link here to the other forum topic?
I will try. Since I am new, any posts with a link or website in it goes under review by a mod. then discarded i guess...

---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ----------

forums.themustangsource.com/f804/3-7-engine-failure-505233/index3/#post6774414

i took of the www part...
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:23 PM   #13
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I believe what you have is a lemon, look up lemon law in your state.
too many problems that shouldn't be with a new car
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:56 PM   #14
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I think you have a lemon dealer. There should be no way that you buy a new car and they put you on hold for two weeks without a loaner. They have used cars and probably a rental fleet. Time to be polite, but firm, or take it to another dealer.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:11 AM   #15
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I am thinking lemon in the back of my mind but Georgia's lemon law requires like three of the same problems within a certain time frame... I sent the owner of the dealership a long e-mail tonight. I will see what kind of response I get before pursuing other options. I am still waiting to hear from the Ford rep on The mustang source.
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ageless1 View Post
I will try. Since I am new, any posts with a link or website in it goes under review by a mod. then discarded i guess...

---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ----------

forums.themustangsource.com/f804/3-7-engine-failure-505233/index3/#post6774414

i took of the www part...
Not discarded, just checked to make sure a new member is not spamming the site. Your good.

In this case, we can diagnose, but since it is brand new and under warranty, its moot, as you'd be taking it in anyway for the fix.

I would however like to know what the dealer diagnosis is for both the engine knock and water leak issue. Please post the results when you get them.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:49 PM   #17
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It seems they got you a rental, they are going to pay for it correct?

["anyhow, I'm now in a rental they set me up in for who knows how long that I had to pay a deposit on out of pocket..."]

Usually a rental company wants a credit card despot for any rental till you return, but make sure the dealership pays the actual weekly fees. They get pricing in the range of $85-125 a week depending on the car, rental company, and location in the country.

Now you got me checking for back seat water!
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Old 03-20-2014, 01:42 AM   #18
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I sent the owner of the dealership an email yesterday night (Tuesday night) and the next morning at 7 he had replied. Around 11 he sent another email saying that the car was in and being diagnosed and that his goal is to get the engine replaced and back to me ASAP. I also got a message from Deysha and got her my info just in case. We'll see what tomorrow brings. (Thursday)
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:44 AM   #19
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I sent the owner of the dealership an email yesterday night (Tuesday night) and the next morning at 7 he had replied. Around 11 he sent another email saying that the car was in and being diagnosed and that his goal is to get the engine replaced and back to me ASAP. I also got a message from Deysha and got her my info just in case. We'll see what tomorrow brings. (Thursday)
Engine replaced???
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Old 03-20-2014, 11:09 AM   #20
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That is what he said.

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Old 03-20-2014, 11:13 AM   #21
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I sent the owner of the dealership an email yesterday night (Tuesday night) and the next morning at 7 he had replied. Around 11 he sent another email saying that the car was in and being diagnosed and that his goal is to get the engine replaced and back to me ASAP. I also got a message from Deysha and got her my info just in case. We'll see what tomorrow brings. (Thursday)
that's what he done did said
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Old 03-20-2014, 01:06 PM   #22
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Just spoke with the service director. He confirmed my assumption and said that there were 2 issues. Was not sure if 1 caused the other but he said the oil pump locked up (my thought) and that cylinder #1's bearing siezed. A new engine is on the way from Ford.

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Old 03-21-2014, 06:45 AM   #23
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Wow. That has to be a rare (hopefully) part failure. No doubt this oil pump failure will make its way back to the engine assembly plant where they will tear it down to find out exactly how it failed.

Sorry you had to experience this bad first impression, but on the bright side, they are taking care of it in the best way possible, and at no cost (out of pocket expense wise) to you.

Maybe with a grin on your face the day you pick it up, you could ask that they toss your way a few free oil changes.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:28 AM   #24
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I hope for something but don't expect much of anything...
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:09 AM   #25
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I hope for something but don't expect much of anything...
I know it's hard, but try and keep the faith. Hopefully it gets fixed soon, and you can be the happy Mustang owner again.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:45 PM   #26
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I'm not sure where in Atlanta you are but I have to say I have had absolutely stellar service from Cherokee Ford in Alpharetta. They have always had a car for me on a moment's notice and have gone over and above the call every time I have had to take my car to them, which has been unfortunately more often than I like to think about. The good side is I have gotten to drive virtually every thing Ford/Lincoln makes as a loaner and learned which ones I like or not...
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:04 PM   #27
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That's good that you have positive experiences with Ford. I live in Cobb County, Austell... suppose we're neighbors, then!

Got a call from the service manager today. A New engine is on the way, they expect it in on Tuesday and if everything goes smoothly, I should have it back on Friday. Fingers crossed!

Hey, I know this had nothing to do with it, but, what is you guys' experience with OCC's? I spoke with a service rep from Mazda today (took my wife's 3 in for oil and a rough idle) He said there's no need for them. Whadda y'all think?
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:21 PM   #28
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What are Occ's?
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:38 PM   #29
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Oil catch cans, or oil seperator, w/wo breathers....
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:48 PM   #30
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On the V6 I would get about 1/3-1/2 oz per about a month in the can just on city driving. (Clue, old man cars decades ago had them or breather filters to do the same thing) If you plan to keep the car till your as old as Eastwood like I do, they are good. If you road track or circle/oval track drive, they are good. Not much for drag liners, they get off too quick and are done. If you trade or exchange every 3-4 years, the messy intake will be some person's problem 6-10 years down the road that likely wont matter if they are not as picky as me about oil burning sucked in an intake.

Consumer cars don't put them on as they require a service to empty them that if not done could cause bigger issues.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:16 PM   #31
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This is basically my first mustang. I don't count my first on since it was a '65 (back in the early '90's) therefore, I don't know what kind of problems these engines are prone having, only that they don't have quite the reliability of a jap car. I do know that they (OCC's) are a hot item on the RX8 forums... I was thinking it certainly wouldn't hurt anything and a $50 investment could help prevent gunk from accumulating on... the inside of the crank case? As far as how long I intend to keep this one; it depends on how much trouble it is to keep her going. I'm no slouch when it comes to maintenance so any problems wouldn't be attributed to neglect or abuse.
For now, this is my daily driver and I'm looking at 6,500-7,500 mi/year. I have the 7/75,000 b2b and the mods I have planned would be only the bolt-on type. The independent rear on the '15 is what initially got me seriously interested in the Mustang again. I tend to avoid the 1st year or two of major redesigns in general so after hearing that Ford was likely going to offer the V6 Ecoboost around '17, that would likely be when I consider trading up again; idealistically, anyway.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:05 PM   #32
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Got a call from my service manager on my way to work this afternoon. The engine came it this morning. It is a complete, brand-new engine; factory filled and everything. They said all they needed to do was swap it out and attach the harness'. Awesome! It's a day early to boot!

A little more info on what went wrong- It started ticking a little bit as it warmed up but went away. Then it developed a loud knock within a mile of driving. Upon inspection by the Ford mechanic, they found 2 problems. The oil pump was not working and the #1 bearing (not exactly sure which he meant; he said the #1 cylinder bearing but I thought there were only 4 bearings in this engine; maybe there are different types of bearings inside) had shattered into tiny bits and had filled my oil pan with bits of it. They are not sure if an oil pump had failed and caused the bearing to fail, or if the bearing was defective and the bits of metal caused the oil pump to fail when it failed. In any case, I am relieved that it is an entire new engine.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:30 PM   #33
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Super good news on the New Engine! A #1 cylinder bearing might be the #1 cylinder Rod bearing he is talking about. The other bearings are the crankshaft bearing and not referred to by cylinder number.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:11 AM   #34
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I have an oil catch can, and in my opinion, they are worth it.Back in the day, they used small filters on the valve covers to asllow the crank case fumes to escape. Then they routed these fumes, via the PCV to the intake, to be reburned to help on pollution. It is this setup that allows the small oil mist to collect in the air intake runners and build up, eventually fouling the air flow and causing a rough idle.

You only need one on the passenger side!!! The passenger side is where the engine crankcase draws in the air into the crankcase; the fumes are drawn out on the passenger side, where the tube runs from the valve cover (now a plastic COP type cover) to the intake. This is where the oil mist will be drawn from the engine and touted into the intake to be re-burned. Don't waste any money on a drivers side OCC!
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:43 PM   #35
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You only need one on the drivers side!!!
Typo there , you only need one on the passenger side. All the other stuff is correct, I think Bucko, like me had his hands type something different that what our Brain was sayin' , just sayin' ; this older guy thing we have

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Don't waste any money on a drivers side OCC!
Yep, an now I gotta get a new one...
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