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Old 03-23-2014, 08:13 PM   #1
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Wheel Spacers? Pros and cons?

Ive always liked mustangs with a wide muscular stance. Ive been looking into getting spacers for mine and would like to know what im getting into before i go through with it. anything i should be worried about? or is there also a good side this mod
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:45 PM   #2
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I am glad you asked jajaja i was about to post the same question!!! Lol


I have a mustang premiun with the pony package and wheels and the only thing I would like to is to make my wheels more flush with the car, pony wheels are good looking but i would like them to be push more outside.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:46 PM   #3
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I am glad you asked jajaja i was about to post the same question!!! Lol


I have a mustang premiun with the pony package and wheels and the only thing I would like to is to make my wheels more flush with the car, pony wheels are good looking but i would like them to be push more outside.

+1 for good taste
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:15 PM   #5
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it's perfect when you're kind of stuck with what you have. I think it's preferable to buy rims and tires that don't require spacers but when you opt for certain rims spacers do the trick. There arnt really any cons to them... used correctly they shouldn't be dangerous or rub. Some of my friends think it contributes to a weaker wheel set up functionally but I don't see it
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:02 AM   #6
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I just put some on tis sat, they look good plus I got sport line springs,only 20 miles or so. After I get home 2 moro im gonna take the rim off and re torque em, then again after 100 miles or so .

2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:20 AM   #7
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Cons: depending on how fat a tire (or wide a rim) you currently have, you want to be sure the tire does not rub or strike the rim during suspension travel.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:21 AM   #8
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I just put some on tis sat, they look good plus I got sport line springs,only 20 miles or so. After I get home 2 moro im gonna take the rim off and re torque em, then again after 100 miles or so .

How much spacing did you use?
Also, how much did the new springs lower the car?
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:50 AM   #9
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Important - YES- Very important

DO NOT BUY UNIVERSAL ONE FITS ALL CARS CRAP SPACERS Only buy a spacer that fits your car and has longer sturdier studs or bolts that come included with the spacers.
Buy a Torque wrench and check the torque about every 1,000 miles or so if running spacers. If you feel a vibration Check the torque immediately.
Spacers are OK if you just use a little common-sense and caution. Plus you don't buy crap just because it is cheaper.
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:01 AM   #10
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Im new to the S197 body style, whats a good thickness of the spacer? Im not looking for "hellaflush" or whatever you call it, just so it doesnt look so sunk in.

I plan on getting some wheels and tires,but that probably wont be until much later...whats the stock offset? Im sure Ill do 20's on this Mustang, what a good staggered offset wheel?
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:04 PM   #11
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Diehard im using 1 1/5 inch ones from am . Plus ive got eibach sportlines on.

2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13savage6 View Post
Diehard im using 1 1/5 inch ones from am . Plus ive got eibach sportlines on.

2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
Do you mean 1.5"??
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:55 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
DO NOT BUY UNIVERSAL ONE FITS ALL CARS CRAP SPACERS Only buy a spacer that fits your car and has longer sturdier studs or bolts that come included with the spacers.

Buy a Torque wrench and check the torque about every 1,000 miles or so if running spacers. If you feel a vibration Check the torque immediately.

Spacers are OK if you just use a little common-sense and caution. Plus you don't buy crap just because it is cheaper.

Ronnie

Allright so only buy "make-specific" "non-cheap spacers" that come included with the bolts (im guessing the ones from AM should be okay,).. Use a torque wrench..
Got it.
Appreciate all the help guys..
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socal Stangman View Post
Do you mean 1.5"??
Yeah

2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
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mods- eibach sportline springs, camber bolts, j&m panhard bar, pypes pipebombs, upr short shift kit, 92 hybrid bama tune , JLT cai ,lethal perfomance o/r x-pipe , pypes m-80 mufflers.
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:02 PM   #15
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The one's at AM are OK

If I were to get them I would go for the H&R from Germany that cost $199.99 a set. These will still allow you to use stock Ford Wheels as well as Aftermarket wheels.
Go to AM and read the installation guide. One thing missing in the guide is to use BLUE LOCKTITE" on the nuts holding the spacer on. Torque them to 100lbs. You do NOT want to use "RED" Locktite because if you do you may not be able to re-torque the nuts if they need it later. Red is a permanent locktite.
After driving about 75 or 100 miles pull the wheels and check the torque on the spacers. There is nothing as bad as having a wheel come off and pass you going down the highway. Trust me! I know.
Good quality spacers installed properly are safe and will stick your wheels out enough to look good and clear some big brake kits.
Just don't think the less expensive one are as good as the expensive one's because they are """NOT"" It's not only your life but there are other people using the same roads you drive on.
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Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:45 PM   #16
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So im a dummy, I over torqued my lugs both spacer and wheels to 150#. Is it safe to loosen them and torque them to to 100#, or are my threads fubar??????
I only drove on them 10 20 miles.
2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
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mods- eibach sportline springs, camber bolts, j&m panhard bar, pypes pipebombs, upr short shift kit, 92 hybrid bama tune , JLT cai ,lethal perfomance o/r x-pipe , pypes m-80 mufflers.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:01 PM   #17
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Loosen them and re-torque them

Over tightening lug nuts is not a good thing. Just undo them and re-torque to 100 Ft.Pds. and you will probably be fine. I would not leave them that tight because they may twist off.

After you do this, when you drive about fifty miles check them with your torque wrench again to be on the safe side.
Ronnie
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2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 03-26-2014, 12:31 AM   #18
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Plus I should use some locktight

2013 mca 3.7: DIB
mods: sportline springs, bmr lca, steeda adj. uca, bmr panhard bar, lca relocation brackets, jlt cai, 91 mpt race tune, lethal o/r x-pipe, pypes m-80 resonators, pypes pipe-bombs.
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mods- eibach sportline springs, camber bolts, j&m panhard bar, pypes pipebombs, upr short shift kit, 92 hybrid bama tune , JLT cai ,lethal perfomance o/r x-pipe , pypes m-80 mufflers.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:29 AM   #19
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Use only on the studs holding the spacer on.

You do NOT want to use the locktite on the lugs holding the wheel on. But you do want to use BLUE locktite on the lugs that is holding the spacer on. Not red but Blue Locktite.
It is the spacers that need to be re-torqued after about 50/75 miles Of course you will torque the wheels to 100 lbs
I put a dab of Never-Seize on my lug nuts but if you don't it is OK.
Ronnie
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2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:34 PM   #20
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ThAnx buddy can i see some pics of your spacers

Cyclone 3.7
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:17 PM   #21
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Never use any sort of locktight on the lugs themselves, as Ronnie points out. You'll never get them off if you do, or end up twisting the socket on the bolts.

This usually happens when you are in the middle of nowhere, with a flat tire, and some ugly kid with weird eyes is playing a banjo by a tree.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:29 PM   #22
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I'm not using them on my Mustang

I learned about spacers mainly from people using them in the old days. A lot of guys used them on the rear wheels to look cool and to use larger tires as well as wider tires for traction. Spacers were needed for clearance too. When a wheel came off going down the highway the word got around the diner and through talking, A solution came to actually talk to the guy's at the Tire shop in Philadelphia on how to use spacers properly. They called the people making spacers at that time and after installing them properly and using blue locktite nobody ever had a wheel come off again.Making sure everything is clean and re-torquing the nuts on the spacer is now just common sense. Back in those days we were not that smart and just stupid enough to throw away any instructions that came with anything we bought. Instructions were just for stupid people. Ha ! Ha ! The J.C.Whitney catalog sold universal spacers that were really cheap but really crap. Going to the big tire store in Philadelphia to get spacers made for your car and paying more was what saved a lot of grief.
A bunch of guy's had rented a bunch of Garages in Wilmington that we called Garage ally and it was a great time for street rods as well as Muscle cars. Everybody knew everybody and cars were a way of life. We all learned a lot from each other and everybody helped one another when needed.
It was the best time of my life and I wish it was still the same. I know that it is gone forever and will never return. Sad but true. I moved on and now I just enjoy my clubs and a few car shows and cruise-in's. It'n not like the 50's to early 70's but better then no fun cars at all.
Ronnie
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2012-candy red- V-6 MCA, Automatic Trans. CFM Valve cover breather. MMD blackTail light trim.Magnaflow axle back street mufflers, JLT oil catch can.MMD hood struts.
Airaid Cold Air intake. red caliper covers, 3.7L performance engine cover, Flat black hood spears.Boss 302 strut brace, CDC rear panel, Trunk Cargo net,--Dash carpet cover,
Viser stickers to cover ugly yellow warning crap,Aluminum driveshafft and Swarr Bar.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:16 PM   #23
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Well no spacers here but running a sn95 offset on s197 Click image for larger version

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Old 03-27-2014, 05:52 PM   #24
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Thats a lot of poke. How bad does it rub?
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #25
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No rub but also not lowered yet
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:54 PM   #26
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No rub but also not lowered yet

I dont think thats going to work very well for you after lowering.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:06 PM   #27
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Meh it my little experiment I have more sets
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:57 PM   #28
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Meh it my little experiment I have more sets
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:32 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I learned about spacers mainly from people using them in the old days. A lot of guys used them on the rear wheels to look cool and to use larger tires as well as wider tires for traction. Spacers were needed for clearance too. When a wheel came off going down the highway the word got around the diner and through talking, A solution came to actually talk to the guy's at the Tire shop in Philadelphia on how to use spacers properly. They called the people making spacers at that time and after installing them properly and using blue locktite nobody ever had a wheel come off again.Making sure everything is clean and re-torquing the nuts on the spacer is now just common sense. Back in those days we were not that smart and just stupid enough to throw away any instructions that came with anything we bought. Instructions were just for stupid people. Ha ! Ha ! The J.C.Whitney catalog sold universal spacers that were really cheap but really crap. Going to the big tire store in Philadelphia to get spacers made for your car and paying more was what saved a lot of grief.
A bunch of guy's had rented a bunch of Garages in Wilmington that we called Garage ally and it was a great time for street rods as well as Muscle cars. Everybody knew everybody and cars were a way of life. We all learned a lot from each other and everybody helped one another when needed.
It was the best time of my life and I wish it was still the same. I know that it is gone forever and will never return. Sad but true. I moved on and now I just enjoy my clubs and a few car shows and cruise-in's. It'n not like the 50's to early 70's but better then no fun cars at all.
Ronnie
Sounds pretty damn awesome Ronnie! We need some more of that today.
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Old 11-13-2016, 05:42 PM   #30
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The torque spec for wheels on a s550 is 150ftlb. Should I use this same spec if I have spacers on my gt?
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Old 11-13-2016, 06:33 PM   #31
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Are you sure? That is super tight, usually its like 85-100... i wouldnt recommend 150.
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Old 11-13-2016, 06:36 PM   #32
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Are you sure? That is super tight, usually its like 85-100... i wouldnt recommend 150.
Yea. Torque spec changed for 2015- 17 models
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Old 11-14-2016, 04:06 PM   #33
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Sounds like a typo to me. The aluminum rims will deform at that much force. Non engineer

plz excuse typos..txtng n drving
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Old 11-14-2016, 04:21 PM   #34
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Sounds like a typo to me. The aluminum rims will deform at that much force. Non engineer

plz excuse typos..txtng n drving
I didnt even think about that, but i was more concerned with the lugs breaking. There's really no need for them to be that tight.

As far as your original question, how many full threads are you able to get on with the spacers? Basically counting from the 12:00 position, does the 12:00 return at least 7-8 times, or 7-8 full rotations? That's considered to be the "minimum safe threads," so you can still use normal torque specs with that many rotations. I would still advise against 150 ft/lbs, i wouldnt go over 100.
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:42 PM   #35
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Are you sure? That is super tight, usually its like 85-100... i wouldnt recommend 150.
https://youtu.be/9camEVJ3pnM

Fast forward to 1:35
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