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Old 06-14-2014, 07:10 PM   #1
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Engine oil

Doin my next oil change at home. Just curious, does the 3.7 require a synthetic blend or is conventional stuff fine? Ive always used castrol gtx in my other vehicles
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by somedopebeats View Post
Doin my next oil change at home. Just curious, does the 3.7 require a synthetic blend or is conventional stuff fine? Ive always used castrol gtx in my other vehicles
According to my Manual, both the 3.7L & 5.0L requireeither Synthetic blend orfull synthetic for U.S. cars.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:01 PM   #3
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According to my Manual, both the 3.7L & 5.0L requireeither Synthetic blend orfull synthetic for U.S. cars.

I noticed that after i changed it, thats why im asking.
Will it hurt my motor if i run it anyways?

Never expected these would require any type of synthetic lol
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:26 PM   #4
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As long as it is the recommended weight, using conventional oil won't hurt a thing. You will be on a conventional oil change schedule, of course, rather than the longer interval of the synthetic.
The reason that it says to use a synthetic based oil is, that's what they used in the car when it went for EPA fuel mileage testing. The Factories have to recommended, in the owners manual, the same type of oil that was used to achieve the EPA test results. The same goes for fuel. If they had to use Premium fuel to achieve the results that they wanted at the EPA, the factory will recommend its use in the owner's manual. In most cases, that same engine will run perfectly fine, with a slight loss of power, on regular fuel...
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by somedopebeats View Post
I noticed that after i changed it, thats why im asking.
Will it hurt my motor if i run it anyways?

Never expected these would require any type of synthetic lol
I'm not an expert but I don't think running one oil change with reg. oil to be harmful since the Canadian version engine recommend reg. oil or synthetic oil. I don't believe the engines are that dis-similar.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:44 PM   #6
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Engine oil

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As long as it is the recommended weight, using conventional oil won't hurt a thing. You will be on a conventional oil change schedule, of course, rather than the longer interval of the synthetic.
The reason that it says to use a synthetic based oil is, that's what they used in the car when it went for EPA fuel mileage testing. The Factories have to recommended, in the owners manual, the same type of oil that was used to achieve the EPA test results. The same goes for fuel. If they had to use Premium fuel to achieve the results that they wanted at the EPA, the factory will recommend its use in the owner's manual. In most cases, that same engine will run perfectly fine, with a slight loss of power, on regular fuel...

Its the correct weight (5w20 here) but now that i think more into it im gonna switch it up to a synthetic next oil change. Kinda funny tho, i zipped to the store quick and the car felt better with regular castrol gtx than it did after last(my first infact) oil change from dealer. Do you happen to know what the conventional oil change schedule is?
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:51 PM   #7
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Engine oil

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Originally Posted by VTStangr View Post
I'm not an expert but I don't think running one oil change with reg. oil to be harmful since the Canadian version engine recommend reg. oil or synthetic oil. I don't believe the engines are that dis-similar.

My owners manual says synthetic, but its not really too hot up here and its only a NA v6 so i cant really seeing it needing anything fancy. Either way, i think ill just run a short cycle and switch to synthetic in a few weeks
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:01 PM   #8
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Its the correct weight (5w20 here) but now that i think more into it im gonna switch it up to a synthetic. Kinda funny tho, i zipped to the store quick and the car felt better with regular castrol gt than it did after last(my first infact) oil change from dealer. Do you happen to know what the conventional oil change schedule is?
It will be fine. You can leave it in for 5000 miles.
Like Vtstangr said, they don't have the synthetic recommendation for the Canadian cars and probably many other countries.
I personally, use a blend in my car and, like you, have been using Castrol conventional for years without any problems.
People that go to those "quickie" oil change places are likely to get 10-30 or 10-40 conventional oil put in their cars no matter what they're driving... That's the cheapest in bulk. Along with a "thimble sized" "one size fits many" oil filter.
You'll be fine. Just put in whatever oil that your comfortable with on the next oil change.
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Old 06-15-2014, 10:08 AM   #9
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Look on the bottle

If the bottle does not have this on it:


Don't use it. If that symbol is on the bottle it is safe to use with no problems.
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:35 PM   #10
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Full synthetic mobil 1 for me 5w-20
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:46 PM   #11
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I've used M1 in every car I've owned and am pleased with it so the stang gets it in the 5w20 flavor.

This is what my 2001 Elantra looked like with the valve cover off after 140,000 miles and only using M1, and changing every 10,000 miles.

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Old 06-16-2014, 12:34 AM   #12
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Use synthetic. You will not believe how clean it runs. Regular, conventional oil leaves behind a varnish that will coat everything and gums stuff up over time. Synthetic produces less wear and won't have issues like that.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:40 AM   #13
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Using conventional oil in place of synthetic will not hurt you for the short term. The advantage of synthetic is the fact that it will not break down and gunk up. If you use conventional for a long time then switch back. The gunk will be cleaned by the synthetic and possibly plug the filter prematurely. So it is recommended that when switching to synthetic on a motor that has used conventional oil for a long time. Change the filter after 1500 miles and top off. This will prevent the motor from being starved of oil flow if the filter gets blinded. For the relatively small extra expense of synthetic. It is probably the best investment for your motor in my opinion.
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:29 AM   #14
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Summary of thread:

Synthetic > Dinosaur (conventional)
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Old 06-16-2014, 04:18 AM   #15
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Just don't use the oil monitor in your information center as a guide to when it's time for the next oil change, as this "oil percentage life" is based on semi-synthetic, and not conventional oil. Semi synthetic is rated to 10K, conventional oil is rated anywhere from 3 to 5K, depending on driving conditions.

Those that use full synthetics are in the same boat: the oil percentage life monitor has no idea as to what type of oil you use (conventional, semi, or full synthetic); some full synthetics boast a life of 15K or higher; the oil percentage life will still base it's change interval on 10K, time or other driving conditions.
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Old 06-16-2014, 11:11 AM   #16
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Just don't use the oil monitor in your information center as a guide to when it's time for the next oil change, as this "oil percentage life" is based on semi-synthetic, and not conventional oil. Semi synthetic is rated to 10K, conventional oil is rated anywhere from 3 to 5K, depending on driving conditions.

Those that use full synthetics are in the same boat: the oil percentage life monitor has no idea as to what type of oil you use (conventional, semi, or full synthetic); some full synthetics boast a life of 15K or higher; the oil percentage life will still base it's change interval on 10K, time or other driving conditions.
What I've done with mine is I reset the oil life monitor once it gets down to around 75%. I figure that adds on ~2500 miles and I'm comfortable with that.

I had a free dealership oil change for my first oil change and that was with semi-synthetic. I let the oil life monitor tell me when it was due after that oil change. I was at 11,800 when it said I had 5% oil life left.
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:48 PM   #17
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there have been lots of hints/ideas. mine is I wated till 5k then I buy whatever full syn 5-20 is on sale along with a FL-820 from my dealer. It is a bit larger than the Fl-500 (more capacity) and I say "hi" to my sales person to build a relationship in case it is ever needed. My dealer has decent prices on filters and ain't far out of my way.
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Old 06-16-2014, 09:31 PM   #18
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Ill prob wait 5k or so then switch back to whatever my dealers got, theyre pretty good guys there. I'd also like to get the extra kms between oil changes too lol thanks for the reassurance guys!
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:03 PM   #19
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Dealers will have Motorcraft blend and that's what they use in everything except the GT500 and maybe the Boss IIRC. Anyway, I run that or Wal Mart Super Tech full Synthetic. I can get a 5 quart jug of either at Wal Mart for $17.99 and then additional quarts are like $3.99. Motorcraft filters at Wal Mart are cheap too and work fine. However, they also stock a ton of Fram crap. DO NOT RUN FRAM OIL FILTERS. At least not the basic "orange can of death" filter. They are called that for a reason. I personally run WIX (Napa Gold) as they are consistently top of the line filters and still cheap at $5-$8 per filter at Napa.

edit: Also if running M1 is your thing then you can get it for very cheap at Wal Mart too at $26 per 5 quart jug. I'm always surprised that more people don't know about the ridonculously good prices they have on oil there but w/e. As far as Royal Purple and all the other "milk from Jesus' nipples" oils... not worth it unless you have a legit racecar and then you should get Amsoil, not RP.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:13 PM   #20
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5W 30 Super Tech Full Synthetic Oil. Works every time. 7,500 mile change intervals.

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Old 06-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #21
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Dealers will have Motorcraft blend and that's what they use in everything except the GT500 and maybe the Boss IIRC. Anyway, I run that or Wal Mart Super Tech full Synthetic. I can get a 5 quart jug of either at Wal Mart for $17.99 and then additional quarts are like $3.99. Motorcraft filters at Wal Mart are cheap too and work fine. However, they also stock a ton of Fram crap. DO NOT RUN FRAM OIL FILTERS. At least not the basic "orange can of death" filter. They are called that for a reason. I personally run WIX (Napa Gold) as they are consistently top of the line filters and still cheap at $5-$8 per filter at Napa.

edit: Also if running M1 is your thing then you can get it for very cheap at Wal Mart too at $26 per 5 quart jug. I'm always surprised that more people don't know about the ridonculously good prices they have on oil there but w/e. As far as Royal Purple and all the other "milk from Jesus' nipples" oils... not worth it unless you have a legit racecar and then you should get Amsoil, not RP.
Bro, I do love me some Super Tech Fully Synthetic Oil. $17.99 for 5 quarts. Good quality oil at a great price. People think way to hard about oil. Its oil people. Just put it in and change at regular intervals and all will be well. 5W20 , 5W 30, its oil people. Ha ha ha

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Old 06-17-2014, 04:25 PM   #22
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Everybody knows the very best oil is::::

KENDALL 70W It has to be the best because Don Gartlets used it in all his top fuel dragsters.
In the old days we always used it in the Harley Davidson Knucklhead and Panhead Motorcycles. If it was good enough for those old air cooled engines it has to be even better for our liquid cooled car engines.
Kendall is a nice straight weight 70 viscosity and stays nice and thick for best protection.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:33 PM   #23
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Motorcraft oil and filter.

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Old 06-17-2014, 06:25 PM   #24
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Bro, I do love me some Super Tech Fully Synthetic Oil. $17.99 for 5 quarts. Good quality oil at a great price. People think way to hard about oil. Its oil people. Just put it in and change at regular intervals and all will be well. 5W20 , 5W 30, its oil people. Ha ha ha

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Old 06-17-2014, 06:29 PM   #25
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I think what Kona means is that anything "branded" Mobil, amsoil, Motorcraft etc, will all perform at or above OEM oil specs. As long as you do your oil changes at the proper intervals and use branded oil, not "Bobs motor oil" from your local corner store, you'll be fine.

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Old 06-17-2014, 08:45 PM   #26
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There are different Tiers of oil, its not all the same but as long as it meets API standards for syn or dino its fine. Super Tech is a higher end Tier III while M1 is a Tier IV. I still run Super Tech in every damn thing I have when they have 5w20 in stock in the jugs at Wal Mart. If not they almost always have Motorcraft and I run that. If I ever get a Termi or Coyote I may pony up for the M1.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:56 PM   #27
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Agreed, oils are not all the same but like you state any API standard oil will suffice. Whether one uses RP, Mobil, ect is really just personal preference. I personally use Motorcraft with a Motorcraft filter, its no better than there competition but equally as good.

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GT 500 stripes, painted side mirror covers, GT 500 spoiler, 2010 GT premium wheels with Pirelli P-zero tires, upper and lower front billet grille, Barton shifter bracket, Airaid Cold air intake, S.R lowering springs, J&M adjustable panhard bar, Boss 302 strut tower brace, 3.73 ford racing gears, Bama tuned, BBK shorty headers, Roush Axel backs.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:05 PM   #28
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I think what Kona means is that anything "branded" Mobil, amsoil, Motorcraft etc, will all perform at or above OEM oil specs. As long as you do your oil changes at the proper intervals and use branded oil, not "Bobs motor oil" from your local corner store, you'll be fine.

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GT 500 stripes, painted side mirror covers, GT 500 spoiler, 2010 GT premium wheels with Pirelli P-zero tires, upper and lower front billet grille, Barton shifter bracket, Airaid Cold air intake, S.R lowering springs, J&M adjustable panhard bar, Boss 302 strut tower brace, 3.73 ford racing gears, Bama tuned, BBK shorty headers, Roush Axel backs.
Exactly bro. If the motor oil meets the US standards and has the stamp API , then its not crap oil. I'm not saying that Royal Purple or Amsoil isn't a better oil than many others but one doesn't need to use those in order to have their engine last 200k plus.

Super Tech oil (Sold at Wally World) is a great Base III synthetic oil and every bit as good as other name brand Base III synthetic oils. Granted a base IV synthetic oil will have additional additives and most likely better than a Base III synthetic however; Just change your oil every 5 to 7500k mile intervals and it isn't gonna matter to the non track racing enthusiast or consumers.

My mother has a 2004 Toyota Highlander and currently has 240, XXX thousand miles on it and guess what? Never has synthetic oil ever touched the inside of the engine. She changes the oil every 5,000 miles and only gets 5W 20 convention oil. I know for the past 5 plus years the conventional oil is Valvoline and prior I have no idea what brand BUT:

It shows that all one really needs to use is an approved API oil and follow the owners manual on oil change intervals and the engine will last. People really over think this whole oil thing. Its just oil people. Change it on a regular basis and all will be good.



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Old 06-17-2014, 10:12 PM   #29
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My father in law has a Honda CRV with 360k on the original motor with conventional Honda oil. Had the trans replaced at like 200k. He does the oil every 4k miles.
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:38 AM   #30
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My father in law has a Honda CRV with 360k on the original motor with conventional Honda oil. Had the trans replaced at like 200k. He does the oil every 4k miles.
Exactly bro.

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Old 06-18-2014, 09:40 AM   #31
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Engine oil

I had 2 v6 sn95s, synthetic never touched the motor. Ill admit no name oil did a few times when i was too lazy to change at home lol. But either way, one made it to 26x,xxx miles before she gave up and the other went 350000+ KMs before i sold it (ran, but in very rough shape)
Beat the snot out of both cars. One wheel peels everywhere lol. Anyways regular oil did a swell job in them and they lasted pretty long
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:11 AM   #32
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Maintenance is always the key. The oil companies make all this money claiming xxxxxx miles between changes or whatever. IMHO its all just another way to take stupid ppl's money. Not to mention every time I see someone pay $65 at the qwik lube for an oil change and to check all fluids and brakes I just shake my head.

$10 worth of "bulk oil"/filter and literally 5 minutes to check/top off the fluids and peek at the meat on the pads. What happens when over 90% of people can't even find the hood latch.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:34 PM   #33
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I've used M1 in every car I've owned and am pleased with it so the stang gets it in the 5w20 flavor.

This is what my 2001 Elantra looked like with the valve cover off after 140,000 miles and only using M1, and changing every 10,000 miles.

Attachment 159350Attachment 159351Attachment 159352
Excellent content here. I always wondered what real results looked like. I am another Mobil 1 full synthetic guy myself. $30 for the oil and $10 for the filter knowing you are putting some of the best stuff in your engine. No brainer.

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Old 06-20-2014, 12:18 AM   #34
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Oh no another oil thread!

But seriously this ones on point! The recommended API spec, like everyone says, is key. Oil is like the car wash you buy, it's all different but will get the job done to varying degrees. Quality will show in the long run. I also can't believe that the ford spec WSS-M2C945-A with approved API markings , which is blessed by the ford engineers to not kill your engine, wasn't brought up! (See attached approved fluids from the 3rd edition owners manual). I know last time I looked Castrol GTX fit the bill in 5-20 flavor... So did most Wally World oils. I keep to castrol full synthetic with 10k mi intervals, but that's my preference! I know m1>>Castrol, I've run Castrol in all my cars including a 3 series which runs smoother and cleaner on GC then the appropriate M1 so Castrol won out here.

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Old 06-20-2014, 04:21 AM   #35
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Lake Mary
Region: Florida
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Originally Posted by Strange Mud View Post
there have been lots of hints/ideas. mine is I wated till 5k then I buy whatever full syn 5-20 is on sale along with a FL-820 from my dealer. It is a bit larger than the Fl-500 (more capacity) and I say "hi" to my sales person to build a relationship in case it is ever needed. My dealer has decent prices on filters and ain't far out of my way.
And I thought I was the only one who enjoyed the visit to the local dealer...

I'll also bring in a couple dozen donuts in when I've had to have warranty work done. That goes a long way to develop a positive customer/dealer relationship.
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