How much can i can i negotiate off base model 2014 v6 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-16-2014, 11:25 AM   #1
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How much can i can i negotiate off base model 2014 v6

Right now i have most everything i need to get my new stang, I've pick out 2 different cars that I've come down two. I chose them because they are exactly what I'm looking for and because they are at different dealerships that also happen to be competitive with each other.
Ive gotten quoted as my walk at the door price at $22193.44 for a v6 oxford white with appearance pack and sync and tech pack with only a difference of $100 between the two. this price also includes $4250 in rebates about and they said they can sell for invoice. My question is do you think i would be able to negotiate below the invoice price? and if so how much can i reasonably expect?
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:35 AM   #2
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I would shoot for $19-$20 for a base model. With the 15's coming out, you have some leverage. Just for comparison, I got my premium for around $22k.


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Old 07-16-2014, 11:41 AM   #3
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Dang premium for $22k thats a great deal! So you think shooting for 2k off there invoice is a reasonable goal? I'm going to be financing some of the car (I'm putting 9-10k down) how ever much i can reduce my payment would be that much more i can use on mods
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:43 AM   #4
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I think he means permium for 22k not including about 3 k in taxes. I seriously doubt that he paid 22k walk out the door fora 2014 premium ...I SERIOUSLY doubt it. I mean i paid for my premium 23500 4 months ago but that is without taxes and ad volorum tax.


I think what they are giving you is fair.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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What I found to be the best tactic is to search for similar models in the area. Then take the lowest price and use that as a benchmark. Prices can vary depending on location, in fact my first mustang was a '13 base that I got for around $20k. Personally, I would need the dealer to do better than $22k. Then again, if it's truly the car you want go for it and don't look back!


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Old 07-16-2014, 11:52 AM   #6
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I think he means permium for 22k not including about 3 k in taxes. I seriously doubt that he paid 22k walk out the door fora 2014 premium ...I SERIOUSLY doubt it. I mean i paid for my premium 23500 4 months ago but that is without taxes and ad volorum tax.


I think what they are giving you is fair.
Ok, yeah cause mine includes dealer fees, tax, tag, title, and all that other little stuff and i know i can probably negotiate on the dealer prep a little as well. i was just wondering since they get money back from ford for the incentives if i could shave a few hundred dollars of their invoice offer at least. since they still get like 2%-3% of cars MSRP from dealer holdback. I want to drive off with knowing i got the best deal possible.
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Old 07-16-2014, 11:56 AM   #7
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There is something to be said for forking out a little more than another one might cost if you truly love it. I have done that with cars in past. That said everyone is right, you can start to customize and build the 2015 and the new body style hits it will be hard for them to move the old even if the 13-14 is better looking......

One thing to note is that they obviously don't pay invoice for the car so there is still room there. Just bottom line them. Go in there tell them $20,500 and you sign today. Worse they will do is say no. Tell them you want that one but if you leave your headed to the other dealer so say yes or lose me. They will drop it. Maybe enough to satisfy you or maybe not. I love the car price game and some hate it so have fun with it. Hell your gonna walk away with a beautiful Mustang! lol
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:03 PM   #8
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There is something to be said for forking out a little more than another one might cost if you truly love it. I have done that with cars in past. That said everyone is right, you can start to customize and build the 2015 and the new body style hits it will be hard for them to move the old even if the 13-14 is better looking......

One thing to note is that they obviously don't pay invoice for the car so there is still room there. Just bottom line them. Go in there tell them $20,500 and you sign today. Worse they will do is say no. Tell them you want that one but if you leave your headed to the other dealer so say yes or lose me. They will drop it. Maybe enough to satisfy you or maybe not. I love the car price game and some hate it so have fun with it. Hell your gonna walk away with a beautiful Mustang! lol
Thanks! I' probably end up going in and just saying bank bank approved my finance for $_____ and to make my payment the most ill pay is $_____ like $20500 as you said, though if they came back saying they can only do $21k id still be happy. Oh secondary question are any of the extended warranty or protection packages, or maintenance packages worth it really?
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:11 PM   #9
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Two dealers competing for your business will certainly help, but at some point, they will stop negotiating with you.

I've tried this when buying tires; there are several tire stores in my area who claim "we will beat anyones price, or they are free". So I head to one, get their price, then head to the other store. In theory, I should be able to do this until one gives me the tires for free, as each has to "beat the others price" until the price is zero, right?

it never works out that way though.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:15 PM   #10
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Thanks! I' probably end up going in and just saying bank bank approved my finance for $_____ and to make my payment the most ill pay is $_____ like $20500 as you said, though if they came back saying they can only do $21k id still be happy. Oh secondary question are any of the extended warranty or protection packages, or maintenance packages worth it really?
Take my advice with a grain of salt but here goes. You will probably start modding your Stan within 6 months. The extended warranty would not be worth it if this is the case. A tune doesn't void the warranty necessarily but it can. NO protection package they are a waste. Most of it is done to all cars, they just try to get you to pay for it. If you are religious about maintenance and do not do it yourself you can save money on those packages. Just be sure to see what it covers and what it doesnt and do the math they are all different.

I will say I have had two cars I bought extended warranty on and 2 I didn't. I was glad I bought on one as I used it. I never used it on the other. One car I didn't buy for I wish I had and my current car I didn't (knock on wood). BUT if you get an extended warranty save any and all paperwork and receipts for maintenance. If you do not stay on top of it they will use that as a reason not to cover.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:18 PM   #11
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IMO you should set your price at 20.5k and only sign for under 21k, even if its 20.99 :p . I don't recommend maintenance pack. or extended warranty, not worth it and a rip off. If you want an extended warranty you can get one and negotiate it when yours is almost up for cheaper.
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Old 07-16-2014, 12:29 PM   #12
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Good advice all, I wasn't planning on getting any of that extra stuff. I just wanted to make sure most people did end out needing and wishing they had. I mean fords run great so hopefully it will run well. After I get my financing approved it'll be time to go to the dealer and whack the price till it drops. But if all turns out I'll have it by my birthday next week (happy birthday to me lol)


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Old 07-16-2014, 12:58 PM   #13
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Cross check with a volume dealer. They can and will sell the car for little to no profit to get their bonus cash. Example:

New 2014 Ford Mustang For Sale in MD | Stock E5331170

Add in freight and doc fees and you are at $18560 before TTL.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:52 PM   #14
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I got my order car for a few hundred less than invoice and kept all rebates. + TTL no trade, no finance, no rip-off add ons. You should hold out for invoice and keep all rebates +TTL

oh yeah I got a key & paint thrown in too.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:42 PM   #15
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I got my order car for a few hundred less than invoice and kept all rebates. + TTL no trade, no finance, no rip-off add ons. You should hold out for invoice and keep all rebates +TTL

oh yeah I got a key & paint thrown in too.
do they only include 1 key in the sale of the car? no spare?
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:46 PM   #16
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In addition to price, you may also want to consider the reputation of the service department. Sometimes its worth paying a little more to a dealer that has a good reviews for when things go wrong.
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Old 07-16-2014, 02:49 PM   #17
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In addition to price, you may also want to consider the reputation of the service department. Sometimes its worth paying a little more to a dealer that has a good reviews for when things go wrong.
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The most important part of a dealership is their service dept. If they are rude and dismissive and fight you on anything then it will be Hell (my dealer). Some are nice and allow for mods and will even help get you free stuff and replacements! Definitely use yelp, google reviews, etc.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:01 PM   #18
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Cross check with a volume dealer. They can and will sell the car for little to no profit to get their bonus cash. Example:

New 2014 Ford Mustang For Sale in MD | Stock E5331170

Add in freight and doc fees and you are at $18560 before TTL.
Where were you all when I bought my car!! Damn! some prior research would have saved me hell lot!!

This thread makes me sad! LOL

I paid 22.5K for 2014 V6 Automatic and took the stupid extended warranty!
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:51 PM   #19
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Here use this as a reference>>> New 2014 Ford Mustang V6 For Sale in Baltimore MD | Vin: 1ZVBP8AM2E5331173
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:59 PM   #20
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I have the same package you are going for and the same walk out the door price.. If I could do it all again if go with the track pack.. I don't even really use the tech n sync lol..
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:18 PM   #21
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Go for at least 5,000 of the sticker price. Be aware that 90% of advertised prices are B.S. I've purchased 13 new cars in the last 15 years and almost every crazy low price was a scam. Not all but most. Keep in mind some dealers will let you walk.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:30 PM   #22
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Go for at least 5,000 of the sticker price. Be aware that 90% of advertised prices are B.S. I've purchased 13 new cars in the last 15 years and almost every crazy low price was a scam. Not all but most. Keep in mind some dealers will let you walk.
5G's is a good discount on a base model, keep in mind that a base Stang are scarce at this time , as for BS sales ads , I got my car at a crazy ad price
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:52 PM   #23
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Right now i have most everything i need to get my new stang, I've pick out 2 different cars that I've come down two. I chose them because they are exactly what I'm looking for and because they are at different dealerships that also happen to be competitive with each other.

Ive gotten quoted as my walk at the door price at $22193.44 for a v6 oxford white with appearance pack and sync and tech pack with only a difference of $100 between the two. this price also includes $4250 in rebates about and they said they can sell for invoice. My question is do you think i would be able to negotiate below the invoice price? and if so how much can i reasonably expect?

There's something called holdback and I know for a fact you can get that too. If there's a couple of dealerships in the area you should have no problem getting all of it. Just tell them all you will give is invoice minus holdback minus rebates and give them a shot at the financing but I would go in with a loan already arranged to make sure you get a fair deal there also. Make sure you pay attention to everything, good luck!!


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Old 07-16-2014, 09:38 PM   #24
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I got my 14 base model for $20,400 OTD taxes and everything back in January. Mine is a true base model and doesn't have the appearance or tech package.

I will give you the actual buyers guide for my car. Keep in mind that I am paying CT sales tax at 6.35%, but it should give you an idea of a fair price. Also, mine is a base'14.

Here it goes:

2014 V6 base auto mustang: $20.692.00

Destination charge: $795.00---this is something ford charges and usually won't negotiate.

Processing fee: $499.99--seems to be the going rate in Virginia.

This is a BS fee and though they can't remove it they can lower the cars selling price or give you free stuff. Its literally all dealer profit and in most states unregulated. In my case I got free all weather mats and some other goodies worth about $300.00 but for the sake of the math I won't include this as "savings."

Subtotal: $21.986.00

Tax (CT): $1.319.16 (owned lol)

Plates and Title crap: $185.53

Total: $23,490.69

Rebate (only win): $3.000

OTD Price: $20.490.69

Down payment: $4.000 cash monies.

Finance: $16.490.69 @1.8% interest rate for 60 months. Payments @ $288.85. Although car is on track to be paid off in 3 years, I just like the low monthly payments as a just in case back up.

In summary I find that most people quote the initial price, but leave off all the little extras that go along with buying a car such as tax, fees, etc. Also, a lot of times a dealer will give you a killer deal up front if you finance with them over a long loan, because in most cases they will make it back in interest. Lastly, sales tax is a major component and should be budgeted accordingly. In my home state of CT I have to pay $6.35%, where in Virginia (where I bought it), you pay 4%. Since I live in CT I had to pay CT taxes. This can add considerable cost to the car.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:11 PM   #25
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do they only include 1 key in the sale of the car? no spare?
All I can say to these questions is I got 2 keys and no Spare, jack or lug wrench with my mine.

As to price of car...not knowing what the various costs are for your local Sales Tax, Dealer Fees, Tag, and Title, I can only say that if you can get them to cut the invoice down a few hundred I'd consider that pretty good.
The Invoice typically includes:
Base car price
Options
Regional Ad Fees

Destination charge
About $50 for Gas

The $4250 shouldn't show up on the invoice but of course would be deducted from the Sum of the invoice and misc fees for your out-of-door price.

It's hard to compare with other peoples numbers without knowing exact details.

best of luck!!



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Old 07-16-2014, 10:47 PM   #26
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Thank you all for the help! Paintman you APR was that through bank financing, dealer, or credit union? Cause even with amazing credit that's low! Unfortunately even though I have a pretty good credit score for my age (724 and I'm 21 next week) I'm a full time student with a part time job or two so i only have a couple financing options due to pretty low income. One I which is my local bank I've been with since I was 12 at like 5%, my other option is the dealer..


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Old 07-16-2014, 10:49 PM   #27
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Oh but I am putting 40% or more down on the car, do you think that'll give me a bit better chance at a good financing rate if I go through the dealer?


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Old 07-16-2014, 11:30 PM   #28
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Yes if u r putting that much down. Buddy cash talks

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Old 07-17-2014, 12:13 AM   #29
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Yes if u r putting that much down. Buddy cash talks

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Well I guess I'll see tomorrow when I talk rates and try negotiate the price a bit more.


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Old 07-17-2014, 12:50 AM   #30
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Watch out they don't try to hose you for the extras. Don't pay a document fee, don't pay an advertising fee, don't pay a fee to clean up your car either.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:01 AM   #31
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Always go to a few area banks first to get a feel for what you can expect for an average rate. I'm 28 and have very good credit which helps, but also a very long (for my age) and solid credit history. I went to 3 banks on my own all offering between 1.9 and 2.5%. Knowing this when I went in to buy the car, I had them throw me an offer of 1.8% through PNC Bank and took it. The dealers usually work with a ton of banks and get loans at "wholesale" rates. Then they tack on a point or two and give you the loan. Even with the inflated number, a lot of times its less than if you were to go through a bank on your own. In my case I had told them my rate and was only doing it to see if it could get lower, so I doubt they tacked anything on.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:07 AM   #32
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Watch out they don't try to hose you for the extras. Don't pay a document fee, don't pay an advertising fee, don't pay a fee to clean up your car either.
In a lot of states that have set document fees dealers are not allowed to remove them from the sell sheet due to legal reasons. They will tell you this repeatedly, as in my case. However, a document fee is pure dealer profit and you can have them make up the difference by reducing the price of the car OR have them throw extras in, which is what I had them do. I couldn't recover the full $499, but I figure $300 in free goodies is fair. At the end of the day they are a business and do have to make money. My feeling is if I feel happy about the deal, even if it isn't the absolute best price, I'm ok with paying more.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:09 AM   #33
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Oh but I am putting 40% or more down on the car, do you think that'll give me a bit better chance at a good financing rate if I go through the dealer?


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You should have a good shot. Banks like to see a minimum of 20% down and usually will follow through with good rates as long as your credit history isn't shaky.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:52 AM   #34
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You should have a good shot. Banks like to see a minimum of 20% down and usually will follow through with good rates as long as your credit history isn't shaky.

Even with a low income though?


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Old 07-17-2014, 05:35 AM   #35
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they come with 2 keys, but to program a 3rd you need 2...so, if you loose a key b4 programing a 3rd it's dealer time. Other hints w/o insulting.

EVERYTHING in writing.

No front plate mounted (unless you are good with one)

No dealer sticker anywhere on car (except maybe plate bracket)

No VIN etch / nitrogen alot of dealers have these lines printed on the order form. Just put a line through them and say "I dont want that"

No extended wtty or any paint protection.

Either go in 1hr B4 closing or be prepared to be held in a room for hours.

it sounds like you are on the right track....good luck

did I mention "everything in writing?"
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2012 V6 with suspension, shifting, stopping and sound mods.
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