I just test drove a 2014 GT and guess what ???? - Page 3 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-29-2014, 07:25 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Rapinator126 View Post
Go with some high flow cats and clean them out. That way in the person eyes doing the check, you still have cats.
Then you can go longtubes and gut the midpipe.
Longtubes will be alot more beneficial if you plan on supercharging later on.

Is your car a auto? If so swap the 2.73's and go to 3.31's and a stall
Or if it's a manual go with 3.73's to make up for the tq

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I have an auto and I already have the 3.31 gears I got the factory option for them. Will high flow cats + headers be better than just headers?


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Old 07-29-2014, 07:27 PM   #72
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I have an auto and I already have the 3.31 gears I got the factory option for them. Will high flow cats + headers be better than just headers?


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Yes, you can also hollow them out, so it will actually be a off road mid pipe. But still give the visual assumption that it has cats.

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Old 07-29-2014, 08:59 PM   #73
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So much goes into factoring car insurance it's unrealistic to compare. And actually most companies now a days have a computer program that calculates rates that most agents can't even explain. Not only does your age, sex, state and location, marriage status, rent or own a home, other lines of insurance, amount of cars you own, etc. All of that comes into play.

And as far as specific cars not only does the age of the car matter but also how the insurance companies rate the cars. More expensive cars can often be less because they have less claims with that particular type of car. I remember pricing insurance and it would have been 15 cheaper a month to insure a 2003 Corvette Z06 then a 2001 Camaro Z/28. Now every bit of common sense would tell you the corvette should be more. It's faster, 2 seat sports car, more expense cost and to fix if wrecked, etc. but I'm sure they get a lot more claims for Camaro's causing the price to be more.
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:53 PM   #74
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So much goes into factoring car insurance it's unrealistic to compare. And actually most companies now a days have a computer program that calculates rates that most agents can't even explain. Not only does your age, sex, state and location, marriage status, rent or own a home, other lines of insurance, amount of cars you own, etc. All of that comes into play.

And as far as specific cars not only does the age of the car matter but also how the insurance companies rate the cars. More expensive cars can often be less because they have less claims with that particular type of car. I remember pricing insurance and it would have been 15 cheaper a month to insure a 2003 Corvette Z06 then a 2001 Camaro Z/28. Now every bit of common sense would tell you the corvette should be more. It's faster, 2 seat sports car, more expense cost and to fix if wrecked, etc. but I'm sure they get a lot more claims for Camaro's causing the price to be more.
Of course there are many factors at quoting individual policies. As you stated- "age, sex, state and location, marriage status, rent or own a home, other lines of insurance, amount of cars you own, etc. All of that comes into play." This is 100% correct.

What i am trying to say is that if an individual were to get two insurance quotes from the same carrier (i.e. has the same sex, age, etc.) with two different cars, then you are looking at the delta between just the cars. Lets say the individual was pricing out a 2014 V6 and a 2014 V8, the V8 would be higher (and if the individual was under 25, it would be SIGNIFICANTLY higher). This is exactly what i did when i was shopping to replace my other car. Being 19 (no accidents/tickets, has part time job, lives with parents, Financing by himself), the insurance on the 5.0 was MORE THAN DOUBLE than what i am paying for my V6 right now.

As i have stated (and will say again), my situation in no way reflects everyone else's, however, in terms of representing a general pattern with insurance (a pattern that i have experienced with my friends, family, and my father's work), I can confidently say that the more powerful car you have, the more expensive it is to insure. Along the same lines, the newer the car is, the more it is to insure compared to an older used car. This is the reason why the insurance for my 2012 Hyundai (when my parents bought it new for me) was significantly more than my Mom's '08 Hummer H2 (BTW, the hummer had 390+ hp V8, weighed as much as the moon, and didn't do so well on its crash test ratings)

I don't mean to anger anyone or argue, i sometimes just can't help my ranting
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:01 PM   #75
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Back on topic, I drove the v8 and v6, and am completely pleased with my decision.

I honestly only felt the difference when I had the car floored. Driving around like a normal human being it felt exactly the same.

But, I will say, when I gassed that v8 it felt really good.

Both are awesome cars and everyone has their reasons as to why they bought what they did. In the end, you couldn't make a bad decision choosing between the v8 or v6.


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Old 07-30-2014, 01:20 AM   #76
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I love my V6, but yes, the real problem here is that the car itself when paired with Ford's honestly pretty mediocre automatic doesn't drive much different between the two. The V6 with manual is almost as quick to actually drive as the V8 with automatic as there's no lag or delay when transitioning or maneuvering (provided you're up above 2.5K rpm), and the V8 with manual is a beast.

But is it worth $7K more money for the V8? I'd have to honestly say no. The V6 is a marvel of engineering and performs equal to the previous V8. Just with two less cylinders and 87 octane fuel, no less. It's plenty fast enough to get you in trouble driving around town.

Now, if I were racing, collecting, or thinking long-term, yes, get the V8. But for 18-19K, a base model V6 with manual utterly destroys the econoboxes in the same price range.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:53 AM   #77
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I was at my dealer today and was looking at the 5.0 while I was waiting for a rental to arrive for me. The salesman didn't even offer for me to test drive it, just gave me a dirty look as I was opening the doors of it. I cannot wait to bring my car to a different Ford service center after this warranty work is finished. I'll gladly drive the extra 20 minutes to not have to go to the one I'm currently at. I bet if I asked to test drive it they would say no. All because I'm in my low 20's.


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Old 07-30-2014, 10:18 AM   #78
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I love my V6, but yes, the real problem here is that the car itself when paired with Ford's honestly pretty mediocre automatic doesn't drive much different between the two. The V6 with manual is almost as quick to actually drive as the V8 with automatic as there's no lag or delay when transitioning or maneuvering (provided you're up above 2.5K rpm), and the V8 with manual is a beast.

But is it worth $7K more money for the V8? I'd have to honestly say no. The V6 is a marvel of engineering and performs equal to the previous V8. Just with two less cylinders and 87 octane fuel, no less. It's plenty fast enough to get you in trouble driving around town.

Now, if I were racing, collecting, or thinking long-term, yes, get the V8. But for 18-19K, a base model V6 with manual utterly destroys the econoboxes in the same price range.
Just get an MPT tune for your automatic. Problem solved .
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:20 AM   #79
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wtty is from Ford NOT the selling dealer. Bring it to any Ford dealer you want to...idk where you are but my choice is Hammonasset Ford in Madison CT but if I wanted to go to Parnelli Ford in Butthurt WI the wtty would still be good
They have an amazing body shop they use which is why I'm still there.... my hood is getting re-done and a GT/CS spoiler put on currently!
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:21 PM   #80
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I love my six and I can def. afford a 5.0 but I'll stick with my six. I love the performance and mpg it gets. Plus the V6 community is much better. 5.0 guys like to beat there chest and it seems like there compensating for something. I've never driven a 5.0 but I did drive a Boss and it's a MF'n "Boss" lol. If I want more performance than my six I just take out the Shelby
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:04 PM   #81
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Damn phone...delete post.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:41 PM   #82
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As i stated, used cars are cheaper to insure. My friend has a Mercedes S-class that's only 5 years old (don't ask) and is 2/3 of what it costs to insure my new 2014 V6 base model. Even though his has 500+ hp and costs more than some houses, its still a lot less to insure than mine.
Isn't a 5 year old Mercedes only worth about $11,500?
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Old 07-31-2014, 01:22 AM   #83
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How old are you? Back when I was 18 my payment on my 03 cobra was $414 and insurance was high $300's with 6 tickets.

Now I'm 25 and pay $130 a month for my 5.o and my wife's explorer

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Hey Rap, if you don't mind me asking, who do you have insurance with? I am 42 and NEVER had a ticket in my life and my insurance is $245 for full coverage on the 5.0 and an 06 cobalt ss. I have state farm. Geico quoted me about 1/2 that but it was crappy coverage.






What kind of mileage does the V6 Get? I keep hearing people say how much more it gets than the 5.0. I have been average 16-18 around town and 2 lanes depending on how I drive and get 26-28 on highway driving civil.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:45 AM   #84
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Hey Rap, if you don't mind me asking, who do you have insurance with? I am 42 and NEVER had a ticket in my life and my insurance is $245 for full coverage on the 5.0 and an 06 cobalt ss. I have state farm. Geico quoted me about 1/2 that .


I have progressive.

I had state fard for awhile and it was around $300 I believe for my wife and I.



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Old 07-31-2014, 03:12 AM   #85
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Correction. I just checked I have nationwide not progressive, my wife does all the bills etc I don't have a clue on who we use etc off the top of my head lol.

But yes nationwide.

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Old 07-31-2014, 04:34 AM   #86
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Hey Rap, if you don't mind me asking, who do you have insurance with? I am 42 and NEVER had a ticket in my life and my insurance is $245 for full coverage on the 5.0 and an 06 cobalt ss. I have state farm. Geico quoted me about 1/2 that but it was crappy coverage.






What kind of mileage does the V6 Get? I keep hearing people say how much more it gets than the 5.0. I have been average 16-18 around town and 2 lanes depending on how I drive and get 26-28 on highway driving civil.

I avg 25-30 city/hwy combined. Ive avg'd in the high 30s before (not very often tho cuz im always hoggin on the gas lol)
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:29 AM   #87
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Before I got my gt I got quoted for the v6 and gt for insurance and the insurance for the gt was $6 more a month lol. Btw 26,8xx for my gt
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:45 AM   #88
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Hey Rap, if you don't mind me asking, who do you have insurance with? I am 42 and NEVER had a ticket in my life and my insurance is $245 for full coverage on the 5.0 and an 06 cobalt ss. I have state farm. Geico quoted me about 1/2 that but it was crappy coverage.






What kind of mileage does the V6 Get? I keep hearing people say how much more it gets than the 5.0. I have been average 16-18 around town and 2 lanes depending on how I drive and get 26-28 on highway driving civil.
I have a 2011 3.7 and I get 26 mpg highway and that's running 75 mph. With my mods I'm around 350-360 HP to the crank. Now keep in mind I also run 93 octane because of my tune and get more mpg's than when I would run 87 octane.

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Old 07-31-2014, 08:49 AM   #89
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I think a lot of people are disappointed test driving the GT because they go into the test drive thinking about the advertised 420 HP.
You aren't going to see 420 on any showroom car, they are filled with 87 octane.
Coyotes are like LS1's were in that they are deceptively fast for what they feel like SOTP. Often times they felt no stronger than the LT1, but the track told the real story.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:52 AM   #90
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This isn't to take anything away from it as I know it can run impressive times down a track when your able to stay in the powerband. But having that HP with that powerband isn't really usable in daily driving for your average driver.
I daily drive mine in D.C. suburb traffic, every gear and RPM is usable to me.
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:10 AM   #91
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19. Also, your 03 cobra was used. Used cars are MUCH cheaper to insure than brand new ones. As of now I am still on my parents insurance because it is cheaper than if I got a separate account and when I was looking at getting a 5.0 (only about 4k more than my v6), the insurance was DOUBLE that of the 3.7. Not trying to argue but if I could have afforded the 5.0, I definitely would have.


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Age does play a factor. At 41, my insurance went down a bit a month when I traded my 4X4 Frontier for the Mustang. Sometimes being older is a benefit
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:16 PM   #92
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I'm 27 and paying 80/month with State Farm for full coverage on mine. I never asked them how much the GT would have been. I am curious now though.


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Old 07-31-2014, 12:59 PM   #93
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Isn't a 5 year old Mercedes only worth about $11,500?

I just looked up a 2009 S-class 4matic (the model my friend has) and it is 41k for 39,000 miles. He got it with ~20k. So, no, it is not worth 11,500


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Old 07-31-2014, 01:02 PM   #94
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14 vs. 15

At this point, if you're thinking about upping into a 5.0 you may as well wait for the 15. Even buying a brand new 2014, you'll be buying an old model. But if you have a specific interest in the 14, or talk your way into a great deal, hey more power to you... (pun intended).
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Old 07-31-2014, 01:18 PM   #95
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I think a lot of people are disappointed test driving the GT because they go into the test drive thinking about the advertised 420 HP. And although those are peak numbers you really have to hit the upper RPM's to see that power. I remember after test driving it I came home and thought to myself there is no way those cars make 420 HP after owning several LS1 F bodies that had around 305. So puzzled I actually pulled up a stock GT's dyno graph when I got home and I found my answer as they really don't make over 300 HP until around 5500 RPMs.

This isn't to take anything away from it as I know it can run impressive times down a track when your able to stay in the powerband. But having that HP with that powerband isn't really usable in daily driving for your average driver.

And for the V6 guys complaining about the 5.0's tune, I think we can all agree that both the V6 and V8 car's came with horrible tunes from the factory and there is a lot of room for improvement if you want maximum performance.
Disappointed testing the auto GT, perhaps. The power band starts after 3k and sucks you into your seat through 7k but I don't think the stock auto tune allows you to do that as easily. But you don't need to be on a track to have fun with it. The 300 HP @ 5500 is irrelevant if you ask me.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:57 PM   #96
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At this point, if you're thinking about upping into a 5.0 you may as well wait for the 15. Even buying a brand new 2014, you'll be buying an old model. But if you have a specific interest in the 14, or talk your way into a great deal, hey more power to you... (pun intended).
My father just bought a 2014 5.0 last week and got 8k off MSRP including the 4k rebate. How much Ford and dealerships gonna give off for the 2015. I know which i would choose.

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Old 07-31-2014, 04:59 PM   #97
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They will give you a great deal on 2015's. Only 5K above MSRP.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:04 PM   #98
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Take Adance Trac completely off & let that coyote rev!
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:06 PM   #99
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They will give you a great deal on 2015's. Only 5K above MSRP.
Well in that case. 2015 it is for me Ba ha ha ha

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Old 07-31-2014, 05:06 PM   #100
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Here is what you do. Mt-82. 4.10's 8,000 redline spray all the way to 7900.

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Old 07-31-2014, 07:05 PM   #101
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Disappointed testing the auto GT, perhaps. The power band starts after 3k and sucks you into your seat through 7k but I don't think the stock auto tune allows you to do that as easily. But you don't need to be on a track to have fun with it. The 300 HP @ 5500 is irrelevant if you ask me.
Again read what I wrote, I didn't say it is slow up until 5500 RPM, I said it doesn't have the HP/ Torque that I would expect from a V8 that makes 420 HP. And unless your a dyno queen and just care about peak numbers the HP produced throughout the powerband and a nice curve is completely relevant. I've had cars that made less power that were lighter that had a better powerband that were faster and more fun to drive.

If you actually look at a V6 and 5.0 dyno graph between 2-4 K RPM's there really isn't that much difference. Judging by the charts I've seen around 30-40 HP although at and over 4 k the 5.0 really pulls away. Which is why under normal driving there isn't a huge difference to be felt between the 2 (although there clearly is a difference). I realize this is the internet and everyone is a bad*** that red-lines every gear but in reality very few people drive like that every day.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:24 PM   #102
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Getting into the 13's?

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Just to have a nice enjoyable Mustang to drive both the 3.7 and 5.0 are very good. I like the V8 but not enough to get rid of my V6.
I really don't care if my car will turn in the 11's--- The 13's are really good enough for me. I did 13.3 with my Auto 3.7 which is a great time for a car that averages about 25 MPG on 87 octane BJ's or Sam's gas. Sounds great with the mod's I have and looks perfect.
I'm reading about the 2015 four cylinders that are supposed to be aw sum with over 300 horsepower but we just have to wait and see how they are. I just hope they will continue with the Mustang tradition of being fun to drive.
To me, the important thing is just having a "MUSTANG" to drive and just look at.
V6 or V8 is fine with me but for what I do the V6 works fine.
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I took my 2011 V6 with 3:31 rear to the track last weekend and could not break into the 13's. Was running the Bama 91R tune and a lot of people have said Bama isn't the best tune. Also have LT headers, O/R X-pipe, and CAI. I'm no pro but my reaction time was very good and I have a new set of Mickey Thompson's on the car. On the "plus" side, my buddy was driving a 2004 Mach 1 and his best time was 13.99. Overall I was pretty jazzed that my V6 ran so close to his V8 (14.48 versus 13.99). Still wondering what else I can do to improve my quarter mile time and break into the 13's...? Thinking about a) drag radials; b) throttle body; c) e-cut outs, any suggestions?
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:35 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by 1HOTPONY View Post
I took my 2011 V6 with 3:31 rear to the track last weekend and could not break into the 13's. Was running the Bama 91R tune and a lot of people have said Bama isn't the best tune. Also have LT headers, O/R X-pipe, and CAI. I'm no pro but my reaction time was very good and I have a new set of Mickey Thompson's on the car. On the "plus" side, my buddy was driving a 2004 Mach 1 and his best time was 13.99. Overall I was pretty jazzed that my V6 ran so close to his V8 (14.48 versus 13.99). Still wondering what else I can do to improve my quarter mile time and break into the 13's...? Thinking about a) drag radials; b) throttle body; c) e-cut outs, any suggestions?
Where do you live? Elevation might come into play here. 14.4 is very slow for the mods you have. You should be running at least a second better than that. Unless you just can't drive lol jk jk

Edit: nvm I just saw you live in ct. Either your tune sucks or practice driving lol
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:00 PM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1HOTPONY View Post
I took my 2011 V6 with 3:31 rear to the track last weekend and could not break into the 13's. Was running the Bama 91R tune and a lot of people have said Bama isn't the best tune. Also have LT headers, O/R X-pipe, and CAI. I'm no pro but my reaction time was very good and I have a new set of Mickey Thompson's on the car. On the "plus" side, my buddy was driving a 2004 Mach 1 and his best time was 13.99. Overall I was pretty jazzed that my V6 ran so close to his V8 (14.48 versus 13.99). Still wondering what else I can do to improve my quarter mile time and break into the 13's...? Thinking about a) drag radials; b) throttle body; c) e-cut outs, any suggestions?
With those mod's and tires and you're tuned... you should be running low 13's everytime. Like. 13.1 / 13.2 . Maybe even lower than that if you hit everything perfect. Don't quote me on going lower than 13.1 with your set up but a stock 3.7 with no mod's, street tires, and 2.73s runs what you're running.
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:06 PM   #105
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With those mod's and tires and you're tuned... you should be running low 13's everytime. Like. 13.1 / 13.2 . Maybe even lower than that if you hit everything perfect. Don't quote me on going lower than 13.1 with your set up but a stock 3.7 with no mod's, street tires, and 2.73s runs what you're running.
Stock are running better. Mt 3.7's should be running just under 14s.
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