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Old 07-29-2014, 07:35 PM   #1
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Strut Tower Braces

I know there are some things where you get what you pay for, but is this a mod where the price tells you the quality of the item. I found a new one for $60, but also see new ones for over $200. Since it appears to be just a piece of metal, I'm wondering if there is really a big difference depending on price. Thank you!


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Old 07-29-2014, 07:46 PM   #2
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The cheap ones will be mostly for show and will certainly flex under stress. If you really feel you need a strut tower brace for performance purposes, spend a little more and get a good one.
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Old 07-29-2014, 11:24 PM   #3
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I found the OEM strut tower brace on CJ pony parts for $99. If you use the coupon code "education" it will get you an extra $10 off.
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:52 AM   #4
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if you look at the OEM one, theres about a 1/4" - 1/8" gap on either side of the bolt when its in the hole, this will give you absolutely zero performance benefit. You need to find a quality BMR or other name brand manufacturer, that is almost difficult to install, only then will it properly keep the chassis from flexing.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:59 AM   #5
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Here is a video that we did on our strut tower brace:



You can check them out here - 2005-2014 Mustang Strut Tower Braces - Free Shipping!

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Old 07-30-2014, 09:30 AM   #6
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Thank you everyone!


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Old 07-30-2014, 10:16 AM   #7
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Boss 302 strut brace

The one from CJ pony is the same one Ford uses on the Boss 302. It does fit the 3.7 V6 and is good looking at sturdy.
When you get any strut brace just be sure not to twist off the studs holding it down. (EASY TO DO) Just use new locking nuts and turn them down until they bottom out (NO TIGHTER)
Ronnie


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Old 07-30-2014, 10:23 AM   #8
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I love my SR Performance one.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
The one from CJ pony is the same one Ford uses on the Boss 302. It does fit the 3.7 V6 and is good looking at sturdy.
When you get any strut brace just be sure not to twist off the studs holding it down. (EASY TO DO) Just use new locking nuts and turn them down until they bottom out (NO TIGHTER)
Ronnie


This is the genuine FORD Boss302 strut
This is the exact one that came on my 2012 PP V6.

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Old 07-30-2014, 04:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponie1992 View Post
This is the exact one that came on my 2012 PP V6.

Jeremy
So does that mean the $99 Boss 302 brace on CJ pony has the "gap" problem that Voltwings is talking about? That was going to be my next purchase, but I'll hold back if it's just eye candy. I want a real handing improvement from my purchase.

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Old 07-30-2014, 05:13 PM   #11
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I ordered it a few days ago. I will let you know how it fits on mine.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:21 PM   #12
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It has a slight gap, but it still does its job fine. I 100% guarantee you can't tell the difference between the two, unless you had a fully set up track car. Its the stock one on the boss 302...Ford isn't throwing parts on the boss unless they know it works. I have one and I can feel a difference over not having one. For me blowing 200+ on a strut bar is a waste of money. Ill take the $99 one from cj and use the other 100 towards something that helps the car even more.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:40 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by GrabberBlue1993 View Post
I love my SR Performance one.

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Old 07-30-2014, 06:00 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=ronnie948;2055552]The one from CJ pony is the same one Ford uses on the Boss 302. It does fit the 3.7 V6 and is good looking at sturdy.
When you get any strut brace just be sure not to twist off the studs holding it down. (EASY TO DO) Just use new locking nuts and turn them down until they bottom out (NO TIGHTER)



Or better yet, torque them to the proper specs.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:13 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=rmb427r;2055855]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
The one from CJ pony is the same one Ford uses on the Boss 302. It does fit the 3.7 V6 and is good looking at sturdy.
When you get any strut brace just be sure not to twist off the studs holding it down. (EASY TO DO) Just use new locking nuts and turn them down until they bottom out (NO TIGHTER)



Or better yet, torque them to the proper specs.
Which I believe is 26 lb-ft. Gotta admit though, as much as my dad and I love working on our cars ourselves, we don't even have a torque wrench. We know not to make the newbie mistake of thinking the tighter the better. But I can't deny that the best way to do things is according to spec, especially with something like this where the risk for damage is high. I don't want to strip the strut rod out, haha, so I guess it's time to invest in a good torque wrench along with my STB purchase!
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
if you look at the OEM one, theres about a 1/4" - 1/8" gap on either side of the bolt when its in the hole, this will give you absolutely zero performance benefit. You need to find a quality BMR or other name brand manufacturer, that is almost difficult to install, only then will it properly keep the chassis from flexing.
So using your analogy anything that the bolt or stud slides through, even though the nut and bolt/stud are tight it really isn't
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:18 PM   #17
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Great discussion guys. Very informative!


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Old 07-30-2014, 07:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siber Expres View Post
So using your analogy anything that the bolt or stud slides through, even though the nut and bolt/stud are tight it really isn't
Good point! It's not like the brace being pressed up against the car is adding the structural rigidity. The force is transmitted through bolt/stud. Newton's 3rd law...
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paintmann111 View Post
It has a slight gap, but it still does its job fine. I 100% guarantee you can't tell the difference between the two, unless you had a fully set up track car. Its the stock one on the boss 302...Ford isn't throwing parts on the boss unless they know it works. I have one and I can feel a difference over not having one. For me blowing 200+ on a strut bar is a waste of money. Ill take the $99 one from cj and use the other 100 towards something that helps the car even more.


my mother has a track pack GT, and I have a standard GT. if the bolts on her struts are loose, I can slide the strut bar back and forth effortlessly... I don't imagine the one on the Boss to be much different, but maybe I am mistaken.
Before one session I swapped her brace onto my car to see if I would notice a difference. Maybe my upgraded tires / suspension masked the body roll, but I felt and saw no difference with the OEM brace. Whiteline makes a nice adjustable unit that allows you to set the preload on the shock towers. Its $300, but you get what you pay for, the only reason I don't have it is it wont clear my CJ manifold.


Also, in regards to your comment about Ford not throwing parts on the car unless they work, I can give you one good reason they are. Marketing. They are giving people what they think they want, like when Porsche or Ferrari put drilled / slotted rotors on their cars. People think track cars should have drilled rotors, so Ferrari gives the people what they want, as you can see here: I came across this article when I started road racing.


"You want to know why 'sportscar' companies still put drilled rotors on their cars? An insider who was actually involved in the actual testing of the brake rotors fessed up about it. They conducted tests with plain and drilled rotors and concluded and confirmed that the plain rotors had no downsides and in fact were better in hard braking than the crossdrilled rotors AND would save the company a little money not having the crossdrilled option. And when they put them on cars, customers commented that, "For a performance car, they should have at least gone through the trouble/expense of putting on high performance crossdrilled brakes". They realized that this is the general public perception, so even though they had concluded that the plain rotors wree better, they put crossdrilled rotors back on the cars. If that's what the public thinks and wants, that's what a good business provides."


Cross-Drilled Rotors Myth - Xtreme Import Performance



In people's minds, a "track car" has a strut tower brace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Siber Expres View Post
So using your analogy anything that the bolt or stud slides through, even though the nut and bolt/stud are tight it really isn't

You're asking a (apparently from above) 26 ft/lb bolt / nut combo to carry the cornering force of a 3500-3600 lb car and not expect any gap to close? Let me know how that goes for you. If there is even the slightest room for the bolt / nut to slide, it will. You guys act like the chassis is twisting in half any time you turn a corner, there is not much torsion from the factory, so any slop in a strut bar translates into 0 performance benefit.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:54 PM   #20
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I guess I have to tell my friend with his Boss 302

Take the strut bar off because it sure ain't doing anything. He actually could save some weight. I'll tell him Ford put that crap on his Boss 302 because people expect to have it on that car. It would be better without having it to save weight on the front suspension.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
my mother has a track pack GT, and I have a standard GT. if the bolts on her struts are loose, I can slide the strut bar back and forth effortlessly... I don't imagine the one on the Boss to be much different, but maybe I am mistaken.
Before one session I swapped her brace onto my car to see if I would notice a difference. Maybe my upgraded tires / suspension masked the body roll, but I felt and saw no difference with the OEM brace. Whiteline makes a nice adjustable unit that allows you to set the preload on the shock towers. Its $300, but you get what you pay for, the only reason I don't have it is it wont clear my CJ manifold.


Also, in regards to your comment about Ford not throwing parts on the car unless they work, I can give you one good reason they are. Marketing. They are giving people what they think they want, like when Porsche or Ferrari put drilled / slotted rotors on their cars. People think track cars should have drilled rotors, so Ferrari gives the people what they want, as you can see here: I came across this article when I started road racing.


"You want to know why 'sportscar' companies still put drilled rotors on their cars? An insider who was actually involved in the actual testing of the brake rotors fessed up about it. They conducted tests with plain and drilled rotors and concluded and confirmed that the plain rotors had no downsides and in fact were better in hard braking than the crossdrilled rotors AND would save the company a little money not having the crossdrilled option. And when they put them on cars, customers commented that, "For a performance car, they should have at least gone through the trouble/expense of putting on high performance crossdrilled brakes". They realized that this is the general public perception, so even though they had concluded that the plain rotors wree better, they put crossdrilled rotors back on the cars. If that's what the public thinks and wants, that's what a good business provides."


Cross-Drilled Rotors Myth - Xtreme Import Performance



In people's minds, a "track car" has a strut tower brace.




You're asking a (apparently from above) 26 ft/lb bolt / nut combo to carry the cornering force of a 3500-3600 lb car and not expect any gap to close? Let me know how that goes for you. If there is even the slightest room for the bolt / nut to slide, it will. You guys act like the chassis is twisting in half any time you turn a corner, there is not much torsion from the factory, so any slop in a strut bar translates into 0 performance benefit.
I put my SR Performance STB on my 2012 v6, torque'd it to 26 ft/lb's, and there was instantly a noticeable difference in body roll reduction getting on and off parkway exits and quick turns. Not sure where you're going with the sliding, but it works, that's all I know. My friend went for a ride after I installed, my father, hell even my girlfriend noticed an instant difference.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:11 PM   #22
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I have checked mine numerous times for movement. I even have a red mark to check if it's moved out of alignment. As of today, it hasn't moved at all. The bar makes a noticeable improvement flying on and off exit ramps versus not having one. I don't track my car so maybe its not getting the full "g effect" and stress, but for $99 i'm not going to complain regarding my application. I rather take that extra $100+ and use it for something else then a "high performance" strut tower brace.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:23 PM   #23
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I left mine off for a couple of days after the header install and there is a difference, and it fits on pretty tight, not the 1/8 to 1/4 inch you said. Also if it was moving the paint would be worn around the nuts and it is not, even after pulling more than 1G in cornering.

You would think there would be a little movement with those numbers and there isn't with the Boss/V6 Performance Package STB that came on my car.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:40 PM   #24
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Took my Ford racing strut bar off since I put the 302 mani on, maybe its all in my head but I can notice a difference.
As soon as I can sell my FR strut bar, I'll be buying a new one
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:26 AM   #25
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I give up, yall are right, buy the factory STB to your heart's content.
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:44 AM   #26
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I'm sure happy your giving up.

Strut bars have been around for a good many years for a lot of different brands of cars. Weather they work for intended purpose or not does not really matter. They are here to stay and if a person wants/likes them is up to them. I have one but I don't know if it is doing anything because I put it on the day after I bought my car. I don't care if it does nothing at all because I do like the looks of it under my hood.
I do appreciate your opinion and do respect it. ( THIS IS AMERICA)
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:45 AM   #27
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My argument was never not to have one, it was the quality of the OEM piece. I will agree that they are aesthetically pleasing however.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponie1992 View Post
This is the exact one that came on my 2012 PP V6.

Jeremy

Same one came on my 2012 ragtop.


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