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Old 09-29-2014, 06:10 PM   #806
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Originally Posted by alrefire View Post
I am getting something from him (possibly 2)
But that's a secret
Should help with my launches and help with longevity



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Old 09-29-2014, 06:21 PM   #807
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It will be totally different because it will be through a turbo 3 inch down to a 2 1/4 on both sides. It will probably just be a lot of whistle a slight exhaust note. Standing behind my car you can't even hear the exhaust up front. That event sounds like a bunch of things that aren't fun then, basically they are saying no race cars.

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Old 09-29-2014, 07:11 PM   #808
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It will be totally different because it will be through a turbo 3 inch down to a 2 1/4 on both sides. It will probably just be a lot of whistle a slight exhaust note. Standing behind my car you can't even hear the exhaust up front. That event sounds like a bunch of things that aren't fun then, basically they are saying no race cars.

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Looks like a lot of fun actually here is the rules list. I wanted to run in the street tuner class since mine is awd and aftermarket turbocharged.


Baileyton Goodtime Drag Strip
978 Summit Rd
Baileyton, AL 35019
(follow signs from here)

Gate fee: $10
Race fee: $30 ($40 total to race)
Test and Tune: $10

Payouts based on full field of 8 cars! Payouts will be adjusted if full field is not met.

Import vs Domestic:

Winner:$700
Runner up:$300

Domestic rules:
Tires:275/28 no W tires allowed
Engine: Small block only, NO BIG BLOCKS PERIOD
Power adder: Single power only! Single nitrous system only!
Suspension: Stock suspension and Ladder bar only. No wheelie bars
Body: The car must retain its original appearance, profiles, and dimensions. Factory roof and quarter panels must be used. Aftermarket fiberglass and/or carbon fiber replacement panels are limited to hood, front
fenders, doors, deck-lids, and bumpers only. No Tube chassis allowed.

Import rules:
Tires: 29 inch max tire size
Engine: Motor swaps from outside vehicle manufacturer OK! No big block engine swaps allowed.
Power adder: 2 power adders allowed (ex:Turbo and Nitrous ok together)
Suspension: No wheelie bars allowed on RWD cars, OK for FWD
Body: The car must retain its original appearance, profiles, and dimensions. Factory roof and quarter panels must be used. Aftermarket fiberglass and/or carbon fiber replacement panels are limited to hood, front
fenders, doors, deck-lids, and bumpers only. No tube chassis allowed.



SFWD:

Winner: $700
Runner up: $300

FWD Only
72.9mm turbo limit
No Lexan
No straight axles
No wheelie bars
25 inch max slick size for FI cars, 26 inch max slick size for NA cars.
Wheel width max - 10 inches
No exhaust restrictions
No 1 piece front ends
Dash must remain



All Motor:

Winner: $500
Runner up: $200

Sport Compact Only
FWD, RWD, AWD OK
Lexan OK
No exhaust restrictions
No 1 piece front ends
No straight axles
No wheelie bars
25inch max slick for FWD
DOT drag radial 275mm for RWD/ AWD
Dash must remain



Street tuner rules:

Winner:$400
Runner up: $150

Full street car class
FWD, RWD, AWD OK
All lights must remain
All bumpers must remain
Open exhaust prohibited (wastegate dump ok)
Limited to ONE power adder outside of factory manufacturing.
No air to water intercoolers allowed
Open exhaust prohibited
Slicks permited for FWD only 24.5x9.5 LIMIT
DOT tires required for AWD and RWD vehicles
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:31 PM   #809
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Wow, only one power adder for domestic, but import gets 2? So if we had 370Zs we could be turbo and nitrous?!
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:40 PM   #810
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Well technically we have a Mazda motor it's even on the block so we'd be safe I couldn't run any of the classes my car breaks like all of them. I didn't see anything about open exhaust though?

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Old 09-29-2014, 07:41 PM   #811
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Oh well I guess if he ran full street class I didn't see that.

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:01 PM   #812
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I don't think he has the suspension setup good enough yet to compete outside of the street class yet. That's just my opinion though.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:05 PM   #813
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I just didn't know if the requirements we to all classes or the street class. But I guess there is just a lot of different classes. my cars been fine on lcs lca brackets and a drop springs nothing special. My 11.2 run was with just lcas and a tire

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:10 PM   #814
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I don't think he has the suspension setup good enough yet to compete outside of the street class yet. That's just my opinion though.
I'm stock suspension, so I agree 100%
This time next year, I'll have fully built rear suspension

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:12 PM   #815
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Me too hopefully I want to wait till it breaks but I don't think that's a good plan lol

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:24 PM   #816
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Me too hopefully I want to wait till it breaks but I don't think that's a good plan lol

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And then sla!

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Old 09-29-2014, 08:36 PM   #817
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What is sla? Lol

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Old 09-29-2014, 09:12 PM   #818
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Short-long arm (double a arm) front suspension


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Old 09-29-2014, 09:23 PM   #819
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Oh gotcga, I'm probably just gonna go subframe connectors, k member then rear end supports and built rear end

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Old 09-29-2014, 09:45 PM   #820
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Oh gotcga, I'm probably just gonna go subframe connectors, k member then rear end supports and built rear end

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You won't need the SFCS
S197 chassis is stiff from the factory..

However, if you really do want some, the kenne brown subframe matrix is the way to go

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Old 09-29-2014, 09:50 PM   #821
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So I checked out my lower control arms in the air to completely parallel they are not raised or lowered at all they go completely straight does that mean that I do not need relocation brackets? The control arms, the stock ones on now, look the same as in the picture advertising the new lower control arms in regards 2 being parallel

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:28 PM   #822
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The relation makes them mount lower it has nothing to do with them being parallel. I'm not sure what your asking exactly though lol

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:36 PM   #823
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in a picture that showed when you need to correct lower control arms example relocation brackets it showed the lower control arms slanted. Because the car has been lowered my lower control arms are still straight . By slanted I mean the world control arm is lower on the wheel then it is connected to the body creating a slant or vice versa I was informed that that needs to be corrected with relocation brackets so that the lower control arm is straight or level

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:41 PM   #824
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Mine are slanted I don't think they should be straight

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:58 PM   #825
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----0
They look like that if the 0 is the wheel.
They should look like slanted starting up then lower to the wheel? Like \0 that way?

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:58 PM   #826
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Yeah pretty sure you need relocation brackets. Read something on AM about it
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:04 PM   #827
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Slightly slanted helps with wheel hop

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:10 PM   #828
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Slightly slanted helps with wheel hop Sent from my SM-N900V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
Parallel works best!
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:12 PM   #829
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Well I dropped .2 doing it this way over the top hole

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:18 PM   #830
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Ok mine are perfectly parallel only droppd 1.5 so I guess I don't need the relocation arms! Awesome

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:29 PM   #831
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Still suggest them. Do yours look like the picture?

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:42 PM   #832
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No they're totally parallel to the ground. I was told that's better for traction

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Old 09-29-2014, 11:57 PM   #833
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after a bunch of research on all Ford Mustangs and other forms I have come to the conclusion that relocation brackets are not necessary for improved reduction in wheel hop. The case seems to be that relocation brackets are beneficial when you are at stock height and you switch the stationary lower control arms not adjustable. If your lower control arms are parallel to the ground after lowering such as in my case a 1.5 inch drop then relocation brackets are not necessary & will actually give you more wheel hop.
I will be going with just the BMR lower control arms non-adjustable since my control arms are parallel to the ground

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Old 09-30-2014, 12:52 AM   #834
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Slightly slanted helps with wheel hop

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Parallel works best!
Actually, both of these statements are wrong. The angle of the control arms(upper and lower) intersect to create your instant center. Where your instant center falls in relation to the cars center of gravity determines your value of anti-squat. Less than 100% means that the car squats at launch, more than 100% means the rear will lift because it is driving the rearend in to the ground harder. You want to aim for a value of 100% so that the car just moves out and doesn't waste time squatting. Wheel hop is a result of deflection created by stock bushings. Aftermarket control arms with solid or urethane bushings, for the most part, eliminate this.
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:18 AM   #835
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Hm interesting, well I'm gonna have to figure out how to do that math and see how close I am.

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Old 09-30-2014, 11:11 AM   #836
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Cook up some burgs over that dumped exhaust Connor haha


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Old 09-30-2014, 11:27 AM   #837
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They tried that with fr8train didn't work out very well haha. I know it's cooked the crap out of my arm a few times when I bumped it haha

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Old 09-30-2014, 02:57 PM   #838
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Hm interesting, well I'm gonna have to figure out how to do that math and see how close I am.

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Kevin Slaby helped me with my stock suspension 10 in tire setup on my foxbody and it went deep in the 5s 1/8 mile with 1.27 60ft. This does not sound fast by todays standards but I did it in the late 90s-early 2000s. He also has a calculator online to use.


http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/

Sorry, kind of getting off the OPs topic.
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:14 PM   #839
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Thanks man I appreciate it that's definitely helpful! Well whichever way it is now really helped so I'm sure this will make it even better!

Especially with my 60'

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Old 10-05-2014, 02:05 AM   #840
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Here's the y pipe

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