2014 Rear deck camera wiring schematic needed - Mustang Evolution

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Old 08-25-2014, 04:43 PM   #1
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2014 Rear deck camera wiring schematic needed

I have a 2014 rear deck spoiler with a factory camera installed into it that I'm adding to my car. The car has a factory navigation and backing up sensors. I added a FORD LOCKPICKS Lockpick kit to the car and the installation was easy.
I bought an after market rear camera that I am not totally thrilled with so I found an new original rear spoiler that I'm installing on the car.
The problem that I have is the Lockpick http://coastaletech.com/media/New%20...structions.pdf only needs 4 wires to operate and the Ford camera has 6 wires 2 whites, 2 blacks, 1 red and 1 blue.
Does anyone has an idea how to wire the camera to using the four wire installation?

Thanks,
Frank
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:46 PM   #2
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This is basically what you need, the Blue wire does not get used BTW
Switched 12v - WH-VT = RED Pin 1
Ground - BK-VT = BLACK Pin 3
Video Shield - = BARE SHIELD - pin 4 (also black)
VIDEO + WH-GN = WHITE Pin 6
Video - BN-VT = WHITE pin 7
The First color is on each is if you plugged it into the plug up front by the fuse box, which I did with mine and then put the Lock pick in and it works fine with it using the stock wiring.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:58 AM   #3
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Hi Dave,
Thanks for the fast reply. Yesterday I ordered a Ford Motorcraft WPT-1130 pigtail to plug into the factory camera wiring harness. I don't see any pin numbers on the camera plug but, if I am reading this right, the red wire goes to the backing up light power 12v+ , one of the black wires go to ground, and the other black wire looks the same as the other, I am confused on both of the white wires that I see in the camera plug, they look the same and either one is numbered. I also have to install a RCA plug to make the lockpick work.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:48 PM   #4
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Looking at the Plug, the red wire is number 1, going across that row is 2, 3, and 4. The wire right underneath 1 will be 5 and then going across is 6, 7 and 8.
Here is the Wiring Schematic for the Camera Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams
If you get shielded wire for your harness to go to the front there should be a Bare wire in it, that is what the other black wire hooks to to help with interference in the signal.
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:12 PM   #5
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Thanks for this information, it helped a lot. Now I have to wait until the pigtail arrives.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:14 PM   #6
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I have the same parts:
WPT-1130 pigtail,
OEM decklid spoiler with camera (bought off ebay for cheap, but I've got to get it repainted b/c it had some scratches)

I think I'm going to install the spoiler, run a Cat5 wire from decklid to passenger side dash and then bring it to the dealer and tell them to do the rest. They said they could add aftermarket (license plate) cameras, so they should be able to "hook me up" literally.

Cat 5 wires have twisted pairs which are good for video. I believe the blue would be the best pair to use since it has more twists.

I'm tempted to try just tapping the wires referenced here: Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams

But I think it wouldn't work until the dealer enabled it anyway, so why play with the wires and possibly have to switch them around (if I did it wrong), etc.
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Old 09-30-2014, 03:49 PM   #7
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---------- Post added at 01:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:49 PM ----------

The Ford factory camera works really good with Coastal Tech Lockpick setup. Thanks to Siber Expres for the good Ford information that he gave me, it was very simple to install a backing up camera in my wifes car.

https://www.coastaletech.com/synclockpick.htm

http://coastaletech.com/media/New%20...structions.pdf
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:07 AM   #8
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Ok, while researching and laying out everything to make my detailed install manual, I found this: HOWTO: Aftermarket Backup Camera on OEM Navi WITHOUT using Lockpick - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums
I normally don't cross link forums... but this guide was too good to not link to.

Basically, everything you need to know is on that page.

Though I may still make my own guide, since I'm going to try doing it from the other side of that C210 connector by adding in the pins (or tapping wires if they're there) and I'll be adding an OEM back up camera spoiler. (instead of license plate cam)

This is a list of where the wires go from the pigtail in the trunk lid.
Quote:
pin 1 - white/purple - power 12v+
to front passenger kickpanel to the large white connector C210. OEM it plugs into slot 20, but there will not be a pin in there. You will have to get a pin and attach the wire to it and then push the pin into slot 20. On the other side, there should be a pin and a wire leading out from pin 20 going to the SJB. It leads to the SJB through pin 5 on connector C2280B.

pin 3 - black/purple - ground / 12v-
This goes to C260. It is located under the driver's side underneath the steering column. Splice it into the wire coming out of pin 20. Or just ground it somewhere else.

pin 4 - bare wire - shield
This goes to C210 and plugs into pin 33. From C210, it goes to C2123 pin 2 on the back of the nav screen. This may be there already.

pin 6 - white/green - video +
This goes to C210 and plugs into pin 21. From there it goes to C2123 pin 3.

pin 7 - brown/purple - video -
This goes to C210 and plugs into pin 22. From there it goes to C2123 pin 9.
Pin 1 & 3 (12v+ and ground) I plan on getting from reverse light & local ground.
Though I may run power from slot 29 on interior fuse box as that is where I believe it would come from normally stock.

Pin 4, 6 & 7 - I plan on wiring to the passenger footwell C210 connector. I'll either splice/solder it in like he did, or preferably add in pin on the other side of that connector so it will be more stock looking. The wiring from there to the display on the back side of the nav. screen should already be in place. I've seen people say to tap there, but I think that's unnecessary.
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:07 AM   #9
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So I ran a Cat 5e wire since twisted pairs of wire reduce resistance and interference.

It was super easy running wire from decklid along existing wires through the back seat, under the rear seat, then along the door jam. I just tucked the wire in (didn't even pull off the molding).

Then I removed the fuse panel cover & the next piece over... I did have to lift the door jam up on the front side to slip the piece out of a peg from the door jam.

Then I just cut & spliced in to the existing wires on the top side of the C20 connector. Wires used are shown here:


Then I connected the ground (12-) to an adjacent ground wire, near the C20 connector.

And connected the 12+ to fuse 29, on the dead end side so the fuse will actually work.

Though when I checked it with the volt-meter it only showed it was getting about 8v+. When I get the dealer to unlock the back up camera, I'll see if this is a problem or not. I'm guessing maybe the stock camera only needs 8 volts?

Now I just need to get my spoiler installed and dealer to enable backup camera with IDS system. Its at the paintshop getting repainted since I bought a color matched take-off from ebay, but it had a few scratches on it.
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:48 PM   #10
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Installed & wired up:


Now just to get it programmed...
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Old 11-05-2014, 01:28 PM   #11
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Got it programmed at 4D Tech, Inc. | Ford Navigation Upgrade Kits and Accessories $140 ($125 + $15 shipping)

Just installed it and everything works!! Looks & works completely OEM, no Lockpick device, etc.

So to recap:
1. Source spoiler w/camera $200+-

2. Source Pigtail: Motorcraft WPT-1130 - $30

3a. Run Cat5 wire from trunk lid to passenger footwell

3b. Connect the (3) camera wires to passenger C210 connector (see above)
--- Connect 12v- to nearby ground at footwell
--- Connect 12v+ to Fuse# 29 (only shows approx 8v on voltmeter, but it works fine)

3c. Connect the pigtail wires on trunklid as indicated in other posts above.

4. Take out Nav ("brick") unit & send it off to get programmed at 4dtech.com. $140

5. Assemble everything, mount spoiler, connect pigtail, etc.



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Old 05-14-2017, 01:49 PM   #12
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Bringing this back from the dead sorry. Will this pigtail allow me to adapt wiring for my car that has an aftermarket NAV unit so i can install a factory backup camera. My care is a base model so I have no factory wiring in the car for this. Im trying to find a way to be able to install a factory camera and make it work.
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:50 AM   #13
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Bueller?
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Old 05-17-2017, 04:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blu13gt View Post
Bringing this back from the dead sorry. Will this pigtail allow me to adapt wiring for my car that has an aftermarket NAV unit so i can install a factory backup camera. My care is a base model so I have no factory wiring in the car for this. Im trying to find a way to be able to install a factory camera and make it work.
Yes, you will need to make the harness to go to the front like I did and then adapt it to the RCA plug into your aftermarket nav unit, the only difference is you will probably power it from the back up lights.
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Old 05-17-2017, 05:31 AM   #15
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Ok so if I'm reading this right the pigtail referenced in this thread plugs straight to the camera pigtail. Then run the wires to the front and connect to a pigtail that should already exist in the passenger footwell? This plug in the foot well is where I would connect an adapter for the rca cable to the stereo?

(EDIT). My car did not come with a NAV system from the factory. So will this harness connector in the passenger footwell still be there and still have he same pin connections?
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Old 05-17-2017, 05:39 AM   #16
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The 4 wire with drain wire harness I made goes into the lockpic up front, my car was not set up for the camera so it only works through lockpic.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:24 AM   #17
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Greetings Siber Express,
I'm currently trying to install a backup camera in my 2013 Mustang GT, I've installed the lock pick, as well as the OEM camera Spoiler, have added the WPT-1130 pigtail to the camera, and have ran a harness to the lockpick using 4 wires, red, black, and 2 white wires which were added to an RCA Plug, I haven't added the Black shield wire, not sure where it goes to, so far, everything works but the reverse camera, any information that you can supply would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-21-2017, 08:41 AM   #18
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Do you have power going into the camera itself?
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Old 05-21-2017, 01:42 PM   #19
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Yes, I have the Red(Pin 1) and Black Wire(Pin 3) from the OEM camera going to the LockPicks Power(Blue +12v) and Ground Wire(Black -12v) I do not have the Black Wire (Pin 4) from the camera pigtail connected anywhere.

Thanks for the Response, Although I like the additional features on the lock pick, it's the Rear View Camera that I need the most, with the Louvers added on my Car, it's extremely hard to see whats behind the vehicle

Jim
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:14 PM   #20
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When I first hooked mine up it was a bad connection I found, I had power going to the wire and none going to the camera at the other end
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Mods OEM Backup Camera, BBK Shorties, FRPP Cut and Clamp X-Pipe, Borla Touring A/B's, Airaid CAI, Axle Xchange 2 piece aluminum Driveshaft, Koni Sport Shocks and Struts, Vogtland V6 Leveling springs, Ford Racing 302s wheels wrapped with Continental 275/40 19's, JBL GTO 8628 6X8 in all 4 corners.
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:42 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info, I'm going to buy a volt meter and check the wet-1130 pins 1 and 3 for power, do i need to do anything with the 2nd black wire Pin 4?, also, is there any particular type of RCA plug that you're using, the plug i have have openings for a plus and minus wire (whites), not sure if the plugs are for audio only however, worse case scenario is to purchase another apt-1130, and 5 rolls of 16 Gauge wire and redo the harness from scratch.

Thanks Siber, your help is greatly appreciated.

Jim
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:21 PM   #22
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Mine is running through the Stock harness from the Kick panel to the Radio and Nav screen.
I don't know if that extra black works like a ground, but there is a place for it at each end so who knows with Ford.
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Old 05-21-2017, 05:42 PM   #23
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How do I wire to the stock Harness, right now I'm desperate enough to try anything to get this camera to work, was hoping not to have to splice any wires however, but as of now, I'll settle for just getting it to work
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