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Old 08-30-2014, 11:16 PM   #1
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Brake System Upgrades 2012 Mustang

After some scary brake fade both on the track and twisty roads like US-129 "Tail of the Dragon," I felt it was time to improve my Mustang's braking system. My plan was to fabricate "brake coolers" from hi-temp rated tubing routed to the car's fog light delete panels (ala Boss 302) and install some new "take-off" Brembo brakes sourced from Roush.
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So far, the Brembo calipers and their massive rotors have provided plenty of bite and with help from the brake coolers and DOT 5.1 brake fluid, no fade.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:11 PM   #2
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Looks good, wondering why you chose the 5.1 instead of a DOT4?
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:52 PM   #3
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Looks good, wondering why you chose the 5.1 instead of a DOT4?
I guess comparatively higher boiling point - under wet and dry condition, of DOT 5.1 over DOT 4. There could be a few more factors which I might be unaware of.
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Old 09-02-2014, 01:08 PM   #4
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You've got to try pretty hard to boil a quality DOT 4 ...
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:17 PM   #5
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You've got to try pretty hard to boil a quality DOT 4 ...
That's true, specially for the racing Dot4 fluids. Motuls RBF600 is one of them right?

So what's the other difference between a high temp Dot 4 and 5.1? Viscosity? Just trying to learn here.
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:41 PM   #6
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Beats me, whats why i asked haha.

The Motul is one of the more liked DOT4 fluids. I'm partial to amsoil myself, although i have thought about using the Brembo brand DOT4 once or twice.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:05 AM   #7
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I chose the 5.1 strictly for the higher boiling point. The brakes that came with my 3.7L Mustang went soft during a track day and I'd rather not repeat that experience.

I was approaching a sharp right-hander at the end of the straight at about 110 MPH when the brakes said "nope, not right now." Between what was left of the brakes and a downshift, I scrubbed off enough speed to avoid crashing but did slide through the corner sideways.

In the pit, I took at my brakes and not only could I feel the heat pouring off of them from several feet away, but the rotors were blue like they had been brazed with a torch.

At first I thought upgrading to 5.0 "GT" sized rotors would be enough to dissipate the heat but, on a four thousand mile road trip inspired by this Road and Track article A Two-Lane Owner's Manual - America's Best Roads Across the Country - Road & Track I turned those blue as well. On U.S. 129 "Tail of the Dragon" I could feel my brakes getting a little spongy and had to back off in order to avoid careening down a cliff into Deal's Gap. Time for BREMOS!
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:37 AM   #8
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Is that 2.5" or 3" ducting? I noticed my (granted they're the stock GT calipers / rotors) brakes getting a little soft with my 3" ducting at my last track day. Granted, i was slowly losing the pedal, which means i was glazing my pads more than boiling my fluid ... took off over half the stock pads in 1 weekend lol, granted it was a very fast track, i was doing 150+ on the front straight.

I would almost prefer 2.5" though, simply because 3" does not fit very nicely, you have to cut and crimp and cram and zip tie all kinds of **** so your wheels dont rub, its a mess. The FRPP kit leaves a lot to be desired.
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:49 AM   #9
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Its three inch tubing and like you said, routing it was a pain. The drivers' side is pretty straight forward but getting the tubing around the windshield washer fluid reservoir on the passenger side was tough.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
Is that 2.5" or 3" ducting? I noticed my (granted they're the stock GT calipers / rotors) brakes getting a little soft with my 3" ducting at my last track day. Granted, i was slowly losing the pedal, which means i was glazing my pads more than boiling my fluid ... took off over half the stock pads in 1 weekend lol, granted it was a very fast track, i was doing 150+ on the front straight.

I would almost prefer 2.5" though, simply because 3" does not fit very nicely, you have to cut and crimp and cram and zip tie all kinds of **** so your wheels dont rub, its a mess. The FRPP kit leaves a lot to be desired.
I have the same glazing problem as you did.. right from the beginning. My dealership guys had to machine my rotors, and change my brake pads within 2 months after I got my car.

Is glazing solely based on overheating of your rotors, or does it also depend on what brake pad you're using?

|| ~BlackOnBlack~ ||
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:54 PM   #11
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Glazing is more times than not occuring on the pads. Same principle as when you glaze a clutch, and you lose engagement, since the materials are similar. Basically means the pad material has over heated and "melted" a bit, so to speak, and you may need a better compoud.

Real track pads can be very hard on street rotors, but street pads are often just that: pads for driving around. There are a few pads that can handle agressive street driving, but for the most part you are only going to want a dedicated track pad when actually on the track.
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