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Old 09-07-2014, 09:22 PM   #36
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Just curious but what price is one looking at to fully forge the 3.7 with install. Talking forged rods, pistons and crankshaft.

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Old 09-07-2014, 10:46 PM   #37
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Just curious but what price is one looking at to fully forge the 3.7 with install. Talking forged rods, pistons and crankshaft.

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there's a guy named chris who recently did it.
i think the total came out to 5200 since had pistons custom made, along with some other extras.
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:01 PM   #38
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there's a guy named chris who recently did it.
i think the total came out to 5200 since had pistons custom made, along with some other extras.
Hmm. So if you're the type of person whose primary goal is drag racing, you could (these days) buy a new base trim 2014 v6 for less than $20k, and with a touch more than $10k for forging and LPF turbo + nitrous, have a 700 hp mustang for $30k. You'd have to do suspension and tires too, but still, that's amazing, people!

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Old 09-08-2014, 01:27 AM   #39
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Hmm. So if you're the type of person whose primary goal is drag racing, you could (these days) buy a new base trim 2014 v6 for less than $20k, and with a touch more than $10k for forging and LPF turbo + nitrous, have a 700 hp mustang for $30k. You'd have to do suspension and tires too, but still, that's amazing, people!

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Exactly what I plan on doing. "Shouldve bought a v8" is a term smaller minds tend to use, especially when they've never owned a mustang.

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Old 09-08-2014, 02:00 AM   #40
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U can get all the forged internals for 2k..

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Old 09-08-2014, 05:48 AM   #41
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U can get all the forged internals for 2k..

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That's awesome price. Not bad at all. What company would you go with for forged internals?

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Old 09-08-2014, 06:05 AM   #42
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U can get all the forged internals for 2k..

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That's just parts?

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Old 09-08-2014, 09:04 AM   #43
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Exactly what I plan on doing. "Shouldve bought a v8" is a term smaller minds tend to use, especially when they've never owned a mustang.

2014 3.7 Airaid CAI, Roush Axle Back Exhaust

To be fair, there's guys running 10's all motor with the V8. Just saying, that Cobrajet top end is wicked.

I've done the turbo 4 thing, and beat v8 guys and i loved it. That being said, my 5.0 cobrajet is making all motor on 93 what my big turbo 4 cylinder was making with boost and e85 ... It just is what it is.
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Old 09-08-2014, 10:27 AM   #44
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To be fair, there's guys running 10's all motor with the V8. Just saying, that Cobrajet top end is wicked.

I've done the turbo 4 thing, and beat v8 guys and i loved it. That being said, my 5.0 cobrajet is making all motor on 93 what my big turbo 4 cylinder was making with boost and e85 ... It just is what it is.
Didn't know you had a Cobra Jet. Engine swap, or did you actually buy the $100,000 car? Who knows, maybe you're loaded, I don't know you personally!

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Old 09-08-2014, 10:53 AM   #45
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Didn't know you had a Cobra Jet. Engine swap, or did you actually buy the $100,000 car? Who knows, maybe you're loaded, I don't know you personally!

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haha, no no no, just the intake manifold / monoblade throttle body and 5" intake on my Stock GT motor. Made 450 on 93 octane, but i sold it to my buddy with a Boss and he's doing right around 470 on E85. That set up is straight NASTY.

This was on my car
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Old 09-08-2014, 11:46 AM   #46
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haha, no no no, just the intake manifold / monoblade throttle body and 5" intake on my Stock GT motor. Made 450 on 93 octane, but i sold it to my buddy with a Boss and he's doing right around 470 on E85. That set up is straight NASTY.

This was on my car
We need that IM's little cousin for our sixers!! Umm cobra jet junior? Lol

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Old 09-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #47
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We need that IM's little cousin for our sixers!! Umm cobra jet junior? Lol

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Lol, seriously. Looks awesome.

We saw a Cobra Jet run 9.86/151 at the track yesterday. Fastest car there.

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Old 09-08-2014, 12:28 PM   #48
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Lol, seriously. Looks awesome.

We saw a Cobra Jet run 9.86/151 at the track yesterday. Fastest car there.

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Aftermarket parts market for our 3.7 vs 5.0 is so skinny, even though this generation of mustangs has been around for close 4+ years now. We need more proven FI kits, roots blower would be sick. Granted it will need an engineering brilliance, but hey that's why we pay 6-7k for them. Needless to say an IM as well. I'm sure they things will sell like hotcakes.

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Old 09-08-2014, 12:49 PM   #49
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Honestly, if you look at a CJ / Boss dyno (same basic design), and then compare it to the powerband the V6 manifold makes, they are shockinly similar. The V6 plenum sits on top of the runners, which is good for high rpm applications. Notice a V6 powerband actually extends beyond 7k, id venture to say as far as 7500, whereas your typical GT starts dropping as soon as 6700 with the stock manifold.

As it sits, its not a bad package at all, i wish we had more data on ported versions of the upper / lower manifolds. The only tricky part about porting the manifolds though is you run the risk of even further slowing the port velocity and losing more torque (for the sake of top end power)... Granted, one of the almost necessary mods on the V6 is gears anyways, so i suppose that's a moot point.
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:54 AM   #50
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Honestly, if you look at a CJ / Boss dyno (same basic design), and then compare it to the powerband the V6 manifold makes, they are shockinly similar. The V6 plenum sits on top of the runners, which is good for high rpm applications. Notice a V6 powerband actually extends beyond 7k, id venture to say as far as 7500, whereas your typical GT starts dropping as soon as 6700 with the stock manifold.

As it sits, its not a bad package at all, i wish we had more data on ported versions of the upper / lower manifolds. The only tricky part about porting the manifolds though is you run the risk of even further slowing the port velocity and losing more torque (for the sake of top end power)... Granted, one of the almost necessary mods on the V6 is gears anyways, so i suppose that's a moot point.
Yup, I've got my limiter set to 7300 and the car doesn't really drop off.

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Old 09-09-2014, 08:03 AM   #51
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Yup, I've got my limiter set to 7300 and the car doesn't really drop off.

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well you're boosted lol, the airflow properties are slightly different. I'd like to see someone spin one of these things out to 7500-7800 like the Boss / CJ and see how the power reacts. If the cylinder heads are built even remotely on par with the GT it should handle it.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:21 AM   #52
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well you're boosted lol, the airflow properties are slightly different. I'd like to see someone spin one of these things out to 7500-7800 like the Boss / CJ and see how the power reacts. If the cylinder heads are built even remotely on par with the GT it should handle it.
Guy on another forum spins his auto out to 7500 and has been for quite some time.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:56 AM   #53
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Would love to see some datalogs or dynos. I would imagine a 3.7 with headers and a good intake would see a pretty nice powerband. Its just so hard to find any good data on these motors, because no one bothers to record anything they do -_-
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:21 AM   #54
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Would love to see some datalogs or dynos. I would imagine a 3.7 with headers and a good intake would see a pretty nice powerband. Its just so hard to find any good data on these motors, because no one bothers to record anything they do -_-
Here is my dyno for my 3.7. Pay no attention to the high AFR, the sensor fell off on one of the pulls and he re did it.



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Old 09-09-2014, 11:29 AM   #55
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Mods? That's a pretty strong powerband, its incredibly broad.
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:56 AM   #56
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Mods? That's a pretty strong powerband, its incredibly broad.
I'm glad someone can read it and make any sense of it. Im lost in the sauce on what all those lines mean. Ha ha ha. I have

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Old 09-09-2014, 01:53 PM   #57
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lol, well the line that starts around the middle of the graph, flat lines, and then falls at the upper rpms is your torque. That is the only part of the dyno that is actually measured, your horsepower (the line that starts low and continues to raise) is calculated based off your torque and rpm.

Horsepower = (torque x rpm) / 5252

What you can do is take your gear ratio, rear tire size, and find a "shift point calculator" (i came across this one, and it seems to be a very powerful program. I like it) to find out how to best approach your powerband.

Tire Size and Gear Calculator | GTSparkplugs

Taking an excerpt here, i will show you what i mean. Your horsepower seems to flat line right about 5800 rpm or so, so whenever we shift, we'd like to end up back in that flat spot (or at least as close as possible). Setting our shift point at 7500 rpms, we can see we really only fall back in that zone in the 4th to 5th shift. (6800 rpm is where it looks like your peak horsepower is in your dyno, that's why it shows shift points there as well).

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @7500)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3006 (To 4494)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2580 (To 4920)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -1923 (To 5577)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1442 (To 6058)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2250 (To 5250)
*************************************************************

Really that doesn't do us much good, so lets just for ****s-and-giggles see what happens when we shift at 8000.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @8000)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3207 (To 4793)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2752 (To 5248)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -2052 (To 5948)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1538 (To 6462)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2400 (To 5600)
*************************************************************

Here we get it in 3-4 and 4-5, so that looks better right? Well, we're getting awfully hypothetical here, because we're assuming this engine will still have some decent airflow at 8000 rpms. Looking at the way the torque is tanking on the dyno however, i feel that's unlikely.

The best thing to do here then, is simply maximize our area under the curve. If you shift too early, you spend too much time climbing back up into your HP band. If you shift too late, you also run the risk of falling out of it on the other side. Its something that's neat and fun to play with.
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:29 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
lol, well the line that starts around the middle of the graph, flat lines, and then falls at the upper rpms is your torque. That is the only part of the dyno that is actually measured, your horsepower (the line that starts low and continues to raise) is calculated based off your torque and rpm.

Horsepower = (torque x rpm) / 5252

What you can do is take your gear ratio, rear tire size, and find a "shift point calculator" (i came across this one, and it seems to be a very powerful program. I like it) to find out how to best approach your powerband.

Tire Size and Gear Calculator | GTSparkplugs

Taking an excerpt here, i will show you what i mean. Your horsepower seems to flat line right about 5800 rpm or so, so whenever we shift, we'd like to end up back in that flat spot (or at least as close as possible). Setting our shift point at 7500 rpms, we can see we really only fall back in that zone in the 4th to 5th shift. (6800 rpm is where it looks like your peak horsepower is in your dyno, that's why it shows shift points there as well).

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @7500)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3006 (To 4494)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2580 (To 4920)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -1923 (To 5577)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1442 (To 6058)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2250 (To 5250)
*************************************************************

Really that doesn't do us much good, so lets just for ****s-and-giggles see what happens when we shift at 8000.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @8000)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3207 (To 4793)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2752 (To 5248)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -2052 (To 5948)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1538 (To 6462)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2400 (To 5600)
*************************************************************

Here we get it in 3-4 and 4-5, so that looks better right? Well, we're getting awfully hypothetical here, because we're assuming this engine will still have some decent airflow at 8000 rpms. Looking at the way the torque is tanking on the dyno however, i feel that's unlikely.

The best thing to do here then, is simply maximize our area under the curve. If you shift too early, you spend too much time climbing back up into your HP band. If you shift too late, you also run the risk of falling out of it on the other side. Its something that's neat and fun to play with.
Wow bro, I got my notes so school is in session and I getting class. Ha ha ha. So should I have my shift points changed with my tune based on my dyno chart and how it makes its power and where?

Sent from my naked Johnson. The third real non Boss 227
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Old 09-09-2014, 06:38 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
lol, well the line that starts around the middle of the graph, flat lines, and then falls at the upper rpms is your torque. That is the only part of the dyno that is actually measured, your horsepower (the line that starts low and continues to raise) is calculated based off your torque and rpm.

Horsepower = (torque x rpm) / 5252

What you can do is take your gear ratio, rear tire size, and find a "shift point calculator" (i came across this one, and it seems to be a very powerful program. I like it) to find out how to best approach your powerband.

Tire Size and Gear Calculator | GTSparkplugs

Taking an excerpt here, i will show you what i mean. Your horsepower seems to flat line right about 5800 rpm or so, so whenever we shift, we'd like to end up back in that flat spot (or at least as close as possible). Setting our shift point at 7500 rpms, we can see we really only fall back in that zone in the 4th to 5th shift. (6800 rpm is where it looks like your peak horsepower is in your dyno, that's why it shows shift points there as well).

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @7500)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3006 (To 4494)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2580 (To 4920)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -1923 (To 5577)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1442 (To 6058)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2250 (To 5250)
*************************************************************

Really that doesn't do us much good, so lets just for ****s-and-giggles see what happens when we shift at 8000.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @8000)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3207 (To 4793)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2752 (To 5248)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -2052 (To 5948)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1538 (To 6462)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2400 (To 5600)
*************************************************************

Here we get it in 3-4 and 4-5, so that looks better right? Well, we're getting awfully hypothetical here, because we're assuming this engine will still have some decent airflow at 8000 rpms. Looking at the way the torque is tanking on the dyno however, i feel that's unlikely.

The best thing to do here then, is simply maximize our area under the curve. If you shift too early, you spend too much time climbing back up into your HP band. If you shift too late, you also run the risk of falling out of it on the other side. Its something that's neat and fun to play with.
How the heck do I fill this out? Ha ha

Sent from my naked Johnson. The third real non Boss 227
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Old 09-09-2014, 07:24 PM   #60
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Whoops, I assumed it would just stay populated when I copied it. I'll dig my spreadsheet back up when I get to work tomorrow. Did this over my lunch break lol. If your car is an auto, I would assume your tuner has your shift points optimized, but I'm sure they'd love a copy of that dyno as well.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:54 AM   #61
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Also, i just realized i used the wrong gear ratios for you, For some reason i thought you had a standard.

V6 MT-82
1. 4.236
2. 2.538
3. 1.665
4. 1.238
5. 1
6. .7

6r-80
1. 4.171
2. 2.34
3. 1.52
4. 1.14
5. .86
6. .69

Didnt realize the A6 had 2 over drives, but the fall back points look much better now with the proper gears put in there. Check it out.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @7500)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2985 (To 3815) -3292 (To 4208)
2->3 -2383 (To 4417) -2628 (To 4872)
3->4 -1700 (To 5100) -1875 (To 5625)
4->5 -1670 (To 5130) -1842 (To 5658)
5->6 -1344 (To 5456) -1483 (To 6017)
*************************************************************
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