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Just for kicks what the most hp you got out the 6 cylinder

3K views 60 replies 16 participants last post by  Voltwings 
#1 ·
I'm just curious please pics would be nice

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#6 ·
Dude on here has a 575 HP turbo/nitrous. Go on YouTube and search "lpf turbo v6 mustang vs 720 HP gtr. That's him

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#12 ·
Yea I'm sure it would hell just for the 5.0 hellion turbo kit it's $8500 so I'm guessing the install will be 2k or 1.5 so that's 10.5k right there but man it would be nice to have that in your hand u know

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#13 ·
He said install and dyno tune is 6000. That's not including the 5400 for the kit plus nitrous kit and 2000 for forged internals

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#16 ·
Dude no, 6000 for labor and tune?! I believe it's including the kit if i'm not wrong.

Unless that 6k figure includes taking out your engine, swapping internals with forged stuff, machining and re balancing your block, labor for putting the turbo on, and engine back in your car. Everything up and running.

|| ~BlackOnBlack~ ||
 
#21 ·
I misunderstood. Bazinga11 is right. If I had the money I'd spend that 6k in a heartbeat. But the kit doesnt come with forged internals

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#26 ·
2014 DIB 3.7 w/ sport shift "Blue Cyclone"

These DOHC 3.7 motors really like to rev. My 2014 stock tune is more powerful than my 2012 stock tune. They just keep getting stronger!
 

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#27 ·
These DOHC 3.7 motors really like to rev. My 2014 stock tune is more powerful than my 2012 stock tune. They just keep getting stronger!
That's how they should be back when I had my old 98 man it sucked I mean I had so many people out running me and yes it was the 4.6 to me poorly built motor just my opinion

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#30 ·
#49 · (Edited)
Honestly, if you look at a CJ / Boss dyno (same basic design), and then compare it to the powerband the V6 manifold makes, they are shockinly similar. The V6 plenum sits on top of the runners, which is good for high rpm applications. Notice a V6 powerband actually extends beyond 7k, id venture to say as far as 7500, whereas your typical GT starts dropping as soon as 6700 with the stock manifold.

As it sits, its not a bad package at all, i wish we had more data on ported versions of the upper / lower manifolds. The only tricky part about porting the manifolds though is you run the risk of even further slowing the port velocity and losing more torque (for the sake of top end power)... Granted, one of the almost necessary mods on the V6 is gears anyways, so i suppose that's a moot point.
 
#56 ·
I'm glad someone can read it and make any sense of it. Im lost in the sauce on what all those lines mean. Ha ha ha. I have

91 MPT, Bama, Steeda tunes
Airraid CAI
BBK ceramic long tube headers
Off road x pipe
3:73 gears
One piece aluminum driveshaft.

Sent from my naked Johnson. The third real non Boss 227
 
#57 ·
lol, well the line that starts around the middle of the graph, flat lines, and then falls at the upper rpms is your torque. That is the only part of the dyno that is actually measured, your horsepower (the line that starts low and continues to raise) is calculated based off your torque and rpm.

Horsepower = (torque x rpm) / 5252

What you can do is take your gear ratio, rear tire size, and find a "shift point calculator" (i came across this one, and it seems to be a very powerful program. I like it) to find out how to best approach your powerband.

Tire Size and Gear Calculator | GTSparkplugs

Taking an excerpt here, i will show you what i mean. Your horsepower seems to flat line right about 5800 rpm or so, so whenever we shift, we'd like to end up back in that flat spot (or at least as close as possible). Setting our shift point at 7500 rpms, we can see we really only fall back in that zone in the 4th to 5th shift. (6800 rpm is where it looks like your peak horsepower is in your dyno, that's why it shows shift points there as well).

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @7500)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3006 (To 4494)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2580 (To 4920)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -1923 (To 5577)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1442 (To 6058)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2250 (To 5250)
*************************************************************

Really that doesn't do us much good, so lets just for ****s-and-giggles see what happens when we shift at 8000.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6800) RPM drop (change @8000)
*************************************************************
1->2 -2726 (To 4074) -3207 (To 4793)
2->3 -2339 (To 4461) -2752 (To 5248)
3->4 -1744 (To 5056) -2052 (To 5948)
4->5 -1307 (To 5493) -1538 (To 6462)
5->6 -2040 (To 4760) -2400 (To 5600)
*************************************************************

Here we get it in 3-4 and 4-5, so that looks better right? Well, we're getting awfully hypothetical here, because we're assuming this engine will still have some decent airflow at 8000 rpms. Looking at the way the torque is tanking on the dyno however, i feel that's unlikely.

The best thing to do here then, is simply maximize our area under the curve. If you shift too early, you spend too much time climbing back up into your HP band. If you shift too late, you also run the risk of falling out of it on the other side. Its something that's neat and fun to play with.
 
#60 · (Edited)
Whoops, I assumed it would just stay populated when I copied it. I'll dig my spreadsheet back up when I get to work tomorrow. Did this over my lunch break lol. If your car is an auto, I would assume your tuner has your shift points optimized, but I'm sure they'd love a copy of that dyno as well.
 
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