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Old 09-16-2014, 07:26 PM   #1
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Relocation brackets necessary?

Hello, i recently purchased H&R super sport springs for my 2012 v6, i also picked up a BMR panhard as well as Camber Caster plates.

I would like to do my whole suspension before installing these 3 items, im considering lower control arms, shocks, struts and an upper control arm.

My question is are relocation brackets necessary for the lower control arms? Im not quite sure ive heard different opinions, but i would like to be certain before i pick some up. Is there a clearance issue with the control arms when lowering the mustang?

Thank you

And is there anything else i would need?
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:34 PM   #2
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If you're lowered, yes definitely get them.

I've never heard of clearance issues with the LCA's and the relo brackets mount above the center of where the wheel sits on the ground so they'll never rub.
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:36 PM   #3
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It's not there is a clearance issue. It's the fact that lowering your car changes the angle of your control arms. The relocation brackets correct this. How much of a drop are the H&Rs rated for? That will decide whether the brackets will be needed or not. If anything, you can wait until you lower it to decide. From front to back, your LCAs should have a slightly downward angle or be level at the very least. I lowered mine with Eibach Sportlines and mine had a slight upward angle and there were major traction issues. With the brackets, the angle was corrected and traction was greatly improved.
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Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:40 PM   #4
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The springs give an estimated 2.4" drop in the rear, 1.7 in drop in the front. Only the lower control arms would need the relocation brackets correct?
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:05 PM   #5
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For that kind of drop I would definitely recommend the relocation brackets. I see you picked up caster camber plates, so you should be good up front. Is the panhard bar you got adjustable? And installing everything else you listed in your first post at the same time is a great idea. You'll also want your upper control arm to be adjustable, or at least designed for lowered cars, to correct you pinion angle.
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2012 Kona Blue 3.7L V6:
Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:22 PM   #6
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Yes the pan hard is adjustable, would you reccomend the lower control arms to be adjustable also? Or does the relocation brackets do the job? My car is a daily driver, not a track car or anything.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:29 PM   #7
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Most people who DD theirs say that nonadjustable lower control arms are more than enough. That's what I'm going with when I place my new order.
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2012 Kona Blue 3.7L V6:
Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:31 PM   #8
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Thank you very much i appreciate the information!
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:35 PM   #9
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Glad to help. Wish I had done all of my suspension together. That's definitely the way to do it, all in one go.
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2012 Kona Blue 3.7L V6:
Borla LT headers, O/R h-pipe, Borla S-types, 3.73 gears,
Steeda adjustable UCA w/ mount, BMR LCAs, Airaid CAI,
LCA Relocation brackets, AE driveshaft, GT 80mm TB,
Black 18x9/10 2010 GT500 Wheels w/ Nitto NT555s,
Eibach Sportline Springs/shocks & Koni STR.T Struts
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:40 PM   #10
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I have the springs, panhard and camber plates sitting in my closet, its so tempting to just lower it already! But i want to do everything in one go over a weekend
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoDat View Post
Glad to help. Wish I had done all of my suspension together. That's definitely the way to do it, all in one go.
That's how I did mine. Everything but sway bars which will come later. Had to run w/o relo brackets for a few days because I had to have another set sent. When I got them on wheel spin from a dig was a thing of the past with my current setup.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:40 PM   #12
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I didn't buy any relocation brackets, My install is on a 2013 V6 Convertible, It's getting installed September the 22nd, I'll let you know if there's any problems.

Edit: Btw, Yeah it feels good to get it over with. =P

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Old 09-16-2014, 11:54 PM   #13
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Stocking up on parts huh! How have you held yourself back long enough from installing everything! List of what you have?
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #14
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I have them in my sig already, But not installed...

BBK Shorty Headers
F/R X-Pipe
Eibach Pro-Damper Shocks & Struts
Eibach Sportline Springs (1.5" Drop Front/Rear)
Eibach Anti-Roll Sway Bars (Front & Rear)
Steeda Adjustable Street Rear Upper Control Arm
J&M Rear Lower Control Arms
J&M Adjustable Panhard Rod

X-Pipe is getting installed today. BBK Shorty Headers are getting installed Thursday or Friday.

The rest of the things, I have an appointment at a reputable shop that works strictly on mustangs only for Monday September 22nd and then we're good to go!

Thursday September 25th I'm going to the 1/8 drag strip to test out the new things... I heard your E/T drops a good amount due to being able to plant the power to the ground. We'll see.

Btw, I wasn't necessarily stocking up... All those parts arrived on the same day =P
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:44 AM   #15
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More importantly than just the launch, the brackets help after every shift. Go to the 1/4 and you can tell every single S197 mustang that is lowered without brackets because they squat on each shift (due to the axle not being loaded properly). A car with proper LCAs and brackets will be mostly flat during the shifts, they make a significant improvement in overall ET, not just 60'
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltwings View Post
More importantly than just the launch, the brackets help after every shift. Go to the 1/4 and you can tell every single S197 mustang that is lowered without brackets because they squat on each shift (due to the axle not being loaded properly). A car with proper LCAs and brackets will be mostly flat during the shifts, they make a significant improvement in overall ET, not just 60'
Forgot to test this/pay attention to this when I wasn't running the brackets but this makes sense. Another reason to get the brackets.
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Old 09-17-2014, 12:12 PM   #17
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Wow, Thanks for mentioning that.. Sorry man, Can't help you there!!! Since my appointment is on September 22nd, I didn't want to risk the stuff not getting here on time, So I went ahead and ordered

J&M Adjustable Caster Camber Plates
Whiteline Rear Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets

through "Guaranteed 1 Day" shipping to make sure they get here on time... I don't want to risk it from what you guys have said, lol...

@RomanG, I think you should buy everything before you install it, I hear it's a nice surprise and transformation to the way your car rides as opposed to upgrading things little by little.
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Old 09-19-2014, 10:09 AM   #18
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One thing to be careful about is that if you ever decide to autocross your car, relocation brackets automatically move you to street modified class, which is not happy place for a mustang.
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Old 09-19-2014, 11:00 AM   #19
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Relocation brackets necessary?

And in ProAm drifting. They are not allowed. :2 cents:


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Old 09-19-2014, 11:04 AM   #20
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One thing to be careful about is that if you ever decide to autocross your car, relocation brackets automatically move you to street modified class, which is not happy place for a mustang.
What exactly is street modified class?

I've never looked into autocross, But it sounds interesting. =P!

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And in ProAm drifting. They are not allowed. :2 cents:


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Do you know the reason behind this?
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Old 09-19-2014, 11:42 AM   #21
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Street Modified is where the really scary people play. For us, we would be allowed to go to our choice in forced induction, lots of engine internal work, pretty much a free for all suspension wise, and the minimum calculated weight for us would be 2693 lbs (if you keep it at 3.7L). The guys who won that class at solo nationals last month were in $150,000 Nissan GTR Spec V's with another $40,000 or so in them. The guy who races in that class locally (for me) has a new Subaru STi that weighs 2800 lbs and has 450 horsepower at all four wheels (much more at the crank). E Street Prepared is about as far as you would want to go with a Mustang under the SCCA rulebook. The annoying thing for us is that with SCCA, we are always classed in with the 5.0 and Boss. NASA is much more friendly to us for classing, but much less common.
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:25 PM   #22
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What exactly is street modified class? I've never looked into autocross, But it sounds interesting. =P! Do you know the reason behind this?
I honestly don't know. I read the 2013 Formula D rule book. But it doesn't state why.
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